The Loony Bin Mostly sport climbing15 routes in crag
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Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.
12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.
National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shoalhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.
Go through Fitzroy Falls in the Southern Highlands as you would to get to Kangaroo Valley and 'Nowra'. Get onto the 'Illawarra' Hwy out of Moss Vale and turn right onto the 'Nowra' Road (signposted).
When you get to Fitzroy Falls there is a bric-a-brac shop called "Grandpas Shed" on the left as you drive through, reset your odometer to '0' here. At around the 4.7km point you will see 4 yellow right hand bend warning signs on the LH side of the road, slow down and park just past these on the left hand side at the "Welcome to the City of Shoalhaven" sign and in front of 4 big wooden posts in the ground. Walk with care on the RH side of the road back up past the yellow turning signs. Duck up and right into the bush after the last yellow sign and in 1 minute you will hit the cliff. ROUTES ARE DESCRIBED LEFT TO RIGHT FACING THE CLIFF. / DIRECTIONS FROM KANGAROO VALLEY - As you go over Hampton Bridge (the big impressive sandstone pillar thing) in Kangaroo Valley, reset your odometer to 'O' and then 10.7 from here after twisting and turning up Barrengarry Mountain, you will hit the parking area for the cliff on the RHS, it is too difficult to turn right safely here. It is better to continue past this point until you reach a fire trail turn off protected by a steel gate at the 12km mark on the left. Turn around here and go back the way you came and park as you would as described above at the four wooden posts.© (matttranter)
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