The Loony Bin Mostly sport climbing

14 routes in crag

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Summary

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.

Description

12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Access issues

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shellhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.

Approach

Walk up the road for two minutes.

Ethic

Bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 * The Great Escape Sport 30m, 8

Total Madness! -Traverse the crag at the main break. Start up the first set of bolts you arrive at, clip any of the bolts on the routes you pass. Rest 2/3rds along at big crack and then push on to the bitter end- why? Just because it's there! Finish when you run out of cliff.

FA: Dave D, Matt T., 2000

2
21 ** Cuckoos Nest Sport 12m, 6

Up and trend right to the break under the roof. Pull up through the head wall to the anchors.

A beautiful piece of work, very sexy moves Start under the right hand side of the roof. 6RB's to LO

FA: Simon Vaughan

3
21 ** Summer Madness Sport 12m, 5

Hard start and then trend left along the edge of the roof. Great knee bar and a nice pull through the roof to end. Start at the right hand side of the roof cap.

FA: Mad Matt T., 2000

4
20 * Martini Sport 12m, 5

Traverse right and take a full body rest if you must at the ledge. Pull through grit style slopers to the top.

Shares the first bolt with Summer Madness.

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

5
23 ** Soul Asylum Sport 12m, 6

Very bouldery start to the break. Start well right of the first bolt and pull really hard and far right to the big ledge. (Unless you boulder V5 then go straight up.)Pull through the large ledge and on to the face and then rush to the top. Start at the next fully bolted route about 10 metres right of Martini.

FA: Matt T., 2010

6
21 * Big Indian Sport 10m, 6

Bouldery start to good break. Difficult moves through the small roof

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

7
23 Take Your Meds Sport 10m, 6

Hard start, go right after first bolt.

8
23 Take Your Meds - Project Matt T Sport Project 12m, 6

Another hard pull to start before reaching the break and the great overhanging flakes above.

Take care with the run out past the overhang and the roof with a sandy feel.

Going to be 22 / 23.

9

Up corner/groove and then push right onto the arete and up 3 metres left of Mad Patty in coner/groove

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

10
20 Mad Patty. Sport 12m

Up the vague arete on the block at the far right hand end of the crag. Start 2m left of 'Simpleton Steps'

Harder than it looks.

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

11
15 Simpleton Steps Sport 9m, 4

Easily up arete to slight steepening then up to recess just before lower offs Up the blunt arete at far right end of the crag, as for Orderly Turkle Sort of a warm up for here

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

12

Start: 2 metres right of GMNR

14

Up flat wall to ltlle pillar then move right along lip then up headwall

Start: Sart at first bolt you come to

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