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Table of contents

1. The Loony Bin 15 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.502451, -34.682571

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.


12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Access Issues:

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shellhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.


Walk up the road for two minutes.



RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Great Escape

Total Madness! -Traverse the crag at the main break. Start up the first set of bolts you arrive at, clip any of the bolts on the routes you pass. Rest 2/3rds along at big crack and then push on to the bitter end- why? Just because it's there! Finish when you run out of cliff.

FA: Dave D, Matt T., 2000

19 Sport 30m, 8
2 ** Cuckoos Nest

Up and trend right to the break under the roof. Pull up through the head wall to the anchors.

A beautiful piece of work, very sexy moves Start under the right hand side of the roof. 6RB's to LO

FA: Simon Vaughan

21 Sport 12m, 6
3 ** Summer Madness

Hard start and then trend left along the edge of the roof. Great knee bar and a nice pull through the roof to end. Start at the right hand side of the roof cap.

FA: Mad Matt T., 2000

21 Sport 12m, 5
4 * Martini

Traverse right and take a full body rest if you must at the ledge. Pull through grit style slopers to the top.

Shares the first bolt with Summer Madness.

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

20 Sport 12m, 5
5 ** Soul Asylum

Very bouldery start to the break. Start well right of the first bolt and pull really hard and far right to the big ledge. (Unless you boulder V5 then go straight up.)Pull through the large ledge and on to the face and then rush to the top. Start at the next fully bolted route about 10 metres right of Martini.

FA: Matt T., 2010

23 Sport 12m, 6
6 * Big Indian

Bouldery start to good break. Difficult moves through the small roof

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

21 Sport 10m, 6
7 Take Your Meds

Hard start, go right after first bolt.

23 Sport 10m, 6
8 Take Your Meds - Project Matt T

Another hard pull to start before reaching the break and the great overhanging flakes above.

Take care with the run out past the overhang and the roof with a sandy feel.

Going to be 22 / 23.

23 Sport Project 12m, 6
9 Good Morning Nurse Ratched

Up corner/groove and then push right onto the arete and up 3 metres left of Mad Patty in coner/groove

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

21 Sport 12m, 5
10 Mad Patty.

Up the vague arete on the block at the far right hand end of the crag. Start 2m left of 'Simpleton Steps'

Harder than it looks.

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

20 Sport 12m
11 Simpleton Steps

Easily up arete to slight steepening then up to recess just before lower offs Up the blunt arete at far right end of the crag, as for Orderly Turkle Sort of a warm up for here

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

15 Sport 9m, 4
12 PROJECT - Lobotomy

Start: 2 metres right of GMNR

13 PROJECT - Head Space Unknown
14 Project - Simple Simon

Up flat wall to ltlle pillar then move right along lip then up headwall

Start: Sart at first bolt you come to

Unknown 12m

1.1. Huge wall 1 route in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.498617, -34.682606


The 100m+ wall of choss that you can see above the road


10+ minutes straight up from the 'Welcome to South Coast NSW' sign


Using your hands to sculpt holds is acceptable - but seriously, don't bother

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Road to Paradiso

Not recommended, the rock is terrible.

Walk up from the carpark near the 'Welcome to South Coast NSW' sign until you hit cliff, find the path of least resistance up the choss wall for 4 pitches

FA: Dane E,Kirill T, 2009

16 Trad 100m 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
15 Simpleton Steps Sport 9m, 4 1. The Loony Bin
16 Road to Paradiso Trad 100m 4 1.1. Huge wall
19 * The Great Escape Sport 30m, 8 1. The Loony Bin
20 Mad Patty. Sport 12m 1. The Loony Bin
* Martini Sport 12m, 5 1. The Loony Bin
21 * Big Indian Sport 10m, 6 1. The Loony Bin
** Cuckoos Nest Sport 12m, 6 1. The Loony Bin
Good Morning Nurse Ratched Sport 12m, 5 1. The Loony Bin
** Summer Madness Sport 12m, 5 1. The Loony Bin
23 ** Soul Asylum Sport 12m, 6 1. The Loony Bin
Take Your Meds Sport 10m, 6 1. The Loony Bin
Take Your Meds - Project Matt T Sport Project 12m, 6 1. The Loony Bin
? PROJECT - Head Space Unknown 1. The Loony Bin
PROJECT - Lobotomy Unknown 1. The Loony Bin
Project - Simple Simon Unknown 12m 1. The Loony Bin