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Access issues inherited from The Pulpit (private land)

Please, if you do not know the farmer and have personal permission - don't go to the cliff.


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Grade Route
21 ** Fisting By The Pool Sport 30m

Good but spicy. 4 clips.

FA: Evan Bieske

12 Angelique Trad 32m

Eastern side

FA: John Tuillack & Ted Cais, 1965

22 * The Seven Ravens Sport 18m

Choss line offering a short bouldery sequence.

FA: Lee Cujes & Adam Palmer, 2009

21 ** Rapunzel Sport 20m, 8

Ledgy climbing to an overhanging finale.

FA: Samantha Cujes, 2011

20 * Billy Bunter Sport 20m

Now extended. 8 clips.

FA: Kim Carrigan

20 * The Brothers Grimm Sport 20m, 4

A warm up favourite.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2004

21 ** Rumplestiltskin p1 Sport 20m, 5

Most popular route here.

FA: Chris Frost

24 ** The Keymaster Sport 10m

Starting in the cave above Rumple. The R route.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

26 ** The Doorkeeper Sport 12m

Starting in the cave above Rumple. The L route.

FA: Doug Hockly

19 Rumplestiltskin p2 Sport 10m

One bolt and gear up crack. Not good.

FA: Chris Frost

16 Rumplestiltskin p3 Trad 20m

Face. Bolts and wires.

FA: Chris Frost

24 ** Orange Slice Sport 20m

Fingery start to ledge, then pumpy face climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan

24 ** Add The Draw Sport 20m

Rebolted in 2011. Independent finish added. Bouldery start, layoff-y middle, then pumpy jugging.

FA: Kim Carrigan

25 ** Two Hours Sleep Sport 20m, 6

Fingery crux to pumpy sloper traverse.

FA: Kim Carrigan

22 * Danny DeVito p1 Sport 10m

Short but stylish. Starts at the little cave at the belay of THS. Up passing two BR’s and a FH to chains on ledge above.

FA: Mark Plenderleith

21 * Danny DeVito p2 Trad 20m

Needs wires.

FA: Mark Plenderleith

25 ** Tongue And Groove Sport 20m

A direct version of Two Hours Sleep up the vague groove joining THS at its second last bolt. Black FHs. Layoff-y.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

27 ** Vein's Bane Sport 27m

Link-up. Up Countdown; at 4th draw traverse diagonally R through TAD, THS, ATD and finish on the anchors of OS.

FFA: Lucy Stirling, 2014

FA: Nate Foster, 2014

26 ** Countdown Sport 25m

Grade is dependent on where you go at the crux. Direct gets the money.

FA: Kim Carrigan

28 * Pretender Sport 18m

Squeezed in left of Countdown. Low value.

FA: Duncan Steel

32 ** The Singularity Sport 17m

Ringbolted line of most resistance. The kneebar on Pretender is out.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

32 *** The Don Sport 20m

An epic five year battle, achieved by a 50yo Duncan Steel.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2011

31 *** Shadenfreude Sport 14m

Bouldery sequence on undercuts and small crimps.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008


Open project. As for Vicious Wishes through the undercuts clipping Shaden's second last bolt (which is generally skipped on VW); then up right on an independent line between Shaden and The Don (carrot up high). The pocket at the clip is the last hold touched on Shaden.

Set by Lee Cujes

31 to 32 Vicious Wishes Sport 7

Links Beautiful Thing into the business of Shadenfreude via a 5 move sequence, avoiding the rest at Mugwump's rooflet.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

26 ** Mugwump p1 Sport 12m, 4

One of the original hard routes here. Spicy crux. Pumpy L traverse at end to finish in cave.

FA: Chris Frost

26 * Mugwump Direct Sport

Up Mugwump, but instead of traversing left to the cave, go straight up the corner to separate anchor. Harder.

FA: Duncan Steel, 1996

23 *** Mugwump p2 Trad 25m

The orange crack starting from the cave. A carrot or two. Never done.

FA: Chris Frost

28 *** Beautiful Thing Sport 20m, 5

Glorious power endurance.

FA: Erin (UK)

29 ** Well Behaved Sport 15m

Linkup. BT (3 bolts) into Beastly. More sustained.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2012

29 *** Beastly Behaviour Sport 15m, 6

Bouldering on a rope. Slopers!

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

31 *** Below The Belt Sport 30m

Beastly into One Hit. Biggest endurance challenge in the state.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

34 (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) SportProject 15m

A bodylength of incredibly bouldery moves. Someone will do it, one day.

(Project - Duncan) Unknown 15m

Up into cave/ledge as for PM, then direct up face finishing in BT's cave.

25 ** Particle Boy Sport 25m

Short version of Particle Man. Anchors on right. "Not a route".

FA: Chris Frost

25 *** Particle Man Sport 50m

Best endurance 25 in QLD. 50m pitch. Ignore halfway anchor (for lowering only). Used to be 5 brackets for top section, is now fully bolted with hangers as of April 2015.

FA: Chris Frost

30 *** One Hit To The Body Sport 30m

Brilliant endurance pitch building to a definite crux, but then it's not over.

Start up Particle Man for 6 bolts before heading up and L.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

30 *** Enter The Dragon Sport 30m

Up Particle Man for 3 bolts, left traverse to crux of Gay Abandon, left into Gay Pride for its crux and finish. 60m rope and lots of long runners.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2012

16 Gay Abandon p1 Sport 20m

An access pitch to 'The Gay Cave'. Up first 3 bolts of Particle Man then traverse directly L to cave.

FA: Chris Frost

29 ** Angry Dragon Sport 30m

Two routes in one. Bouldery 27 off the deck, easy, then bouldery 29 into One Hit.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

27 *** Gay Abandon p2 Sport 20m

The original Pulpit hard route from the Chris Frost days. Endurance and runouts.

FA: Chris Frost

28 *** Gaylord Sport 15m

Top end 28. Crimpy.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

29 *** Gay Pride Sport 20m

From the left side of the cave, straight up the bulging green streak.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2011

26 ** Gaytime Sport 15m

High quality.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

15 Access Pitch Sport 15m

Monkey climb tree against cliff, then bolts to ledge (the boneyard). Can climb up into the Gay Cave from here (1 FH), or up to belay ledge for Volts/Deadliest/Pincers.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2011


Climb out of the boneyard into The Volts at the 'big blob'. Not yet equipped.

25 * The Volts Sport 30m

Starts above IN as for Deadliest Catch. R off belay and up. Wandery, carrots, hard, long.

FA: Chris Frost

23 ** Deadliest Catch SportProject 15m

Belay as for The Volts, but go up and L. Best 23 here?

FA: Lee Cujes

26 * The Pincers Sport 15m, 7

Starts at DBB in scoop above IN. Step L, up slab to bulge. Bouldery sequence to ledge hold. Easier finish. Chain anchor above large ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes

25 ** Idiot Savant Sport 15m

Sustained face route just L of tree.

FA: Doug Hockly


Old school (runout) and hard for the grade.

FA: Doug Hockly

28 *** Ahead Of The Curve Sport 28m

Arapilesean. Looks impossible, climbs amazingly. Technical and balancy. Best 28 at the cliff if not all of QLD.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

29 *** Bold Curves Sport 30m

Linkup. Climb AOTC to the second bolt before the cave, then L into Hoodwinked (for 2 bolts) then L again into Collywobbles direct to finish.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2012


Sustained and pumpy on carrots.

FA: Chris Frost

25 ** Collywobbles Unknown 20m

Bit of a weird one. At rooflet, step L for original (easier, runout) or go direct past FH (harder, well protected).

FA: Chris Frost

20 * Bamboozled Unknown 25m

Starts from ground. Access pitch for Collywobbles etc. Tricky, be prepared.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2005

22 (Horshner 1) Unknown 35m

Two pitches

FA: Andrew Horshner

19 * (Plenderleith 1) Unknown 20m

Up the black streak.

FA: Mark Plenderleith

15 (Denise 1) Unknown 20m

FA: Denise


Onsight, no-pro lead by Rick White. We're led to believe it's one of the aretes.

FA: Rick White


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