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Table of contents

1. The Pulpit (private land) 86 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 152.551208, -28.078137

Access Issues:

Please, if you do not know the farmer and have personal permission - don't go to the cliff.

1.1. Back Wall 60 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fisting By The Pool

Good but spicy. 4 clips.

FA: Evan Bieske

21Sport 30m
2 Angelique

Eastern side

FA: John Tuillack, Ted Cais, 1965

12Trad 32m
3 The Seven Ravens

Choss line offering a short bouldery sequence.

FA: Lee Cujes, Adam Palmer, 2009

22Sport 18m
4 ** Rapunzel

Ledgy climbing to an overhanging finale.

FA: Samantha Cujes, 2011

21Sport 20m, 8
5 Billy Bunter

Now extended. 8 clips.

FA: Kim Carrigan

20Sport 20m
6 The Brothers Grimm

A warm up favourite.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2004

20Sport 20m, 4
7 ** Rumplestiltskin p1

Most popular route here.

FA: Chris Frost

21Sport 20m, 5
8 The Keymaster

Starting in the cave above Rumple. The R route.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

24Sport 10m
9 ** The Doorkeeper

Starting in the cave above Rumple. The L route.

FA: Doug Hockly

26Sport 12m
10 Rumplestiltskin p2

One bolt and gear up crack. Not good.

FA: Chris Frost

19Sport 10m
11 Rumplestiltskin p3

Face. Bolts and wires.

FA: Chris Frost

16Trad 20m
12 ** Orange Slice

Fingery start to ledge, then pumpy face climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan

24Sport 20m
13 * Add The Draw

Rebolted in 2011. Independent finish added. Bouldery start, layoff-y middle, then pumpy jugging.

FA: Kim Carrigan

24Sport 20m
14 ** Two Hours Sleep

Fingery crux to pumpy sloper traverse.

FA: Kim Carrigan

25Sport 20m, 6
15 * Danny DeVito p1

Short but stylish. Starts at the little cave at the belay of THS. Up passing two BR’s and a FH to chains on ledge above.

FA: Mark Plenderleith

22Sport 10m
16 Danny DeVito p2

Needs wires.

FA: Mark Plenderleith

21Trad 20m
17 * Tongue And Groove

A direct version of Two Hours Sleep up the vague groove joining THS at its second last bolt. Black FHs. Layoff-y.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

25Sport 20m
18 ** Vein's Bane

Link-up. Up Countdown; at 4th draw traverse diagonally R through TAD, THS, ATD and finish on the anchors of OS.

FFA: Lucy Stirling, 2014

FA: Nate Foster, 2014

27Sport 27m
19 *** Countdown

Grade is dependent on where you go at the crux. Direct gets the money.

FA: Kim Carrigan

26Sport 25m
20 Pretender

Squeezed in left of Countdown. Low value.

FA: Duncan Steel

28Sport 18m
21 The Singularity

Ringbolted line of most resistance. The kneebar on Pretender is out.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

32Sport 17m
22 *** The Don

An epic five year battle, achieved by a 50yo Duncan Steel.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2011

32Sport 20m
23 Shadenfreude

Bouldery sequence on undercuts and small crimps.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2008

31Sport 14m
24 (Link Project - Open)

Open project. As for Vicious Wishes through the undercuts clipping Shaden's second last bolt (which is generally skipped on VW); then up right on an independent line between Shaden and The Don (carrot up high). The pocket at the clip is the last hold touched on Shaden.

Set by Lee Cujes

Sport Project
25 Vicious Wishes

Links Beautiful Thing into the business of Shadenfreude via a 5 move sequence, avoiding the rest at Mugwump's rooflet.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

31 to 32Sport 7
26 ** Mugwump p1

A bit old school with carrots, but one of the original hard routes here. Pumpy L traverse at end to finish in cave.

FA: Chris Frost

26Sport 12m
27 Mugwump Direct

Up Mugwump, but instead of traversing left to the cave, go straight up the corner to separate anchor. Harder.

FA: Duncan Steel, 1996

26Sport
28 Mugwump p2

The orange crack starting from the cave. A carrot or two. Never done.

FA: Chris Frost

23Trad 25m
29 *** Beautiful Thing

Glorious power endurance.

FA: Erin (UK)

28Sport 20m, 5
30 Well Behaved

Linkup. BT (3 bolts) into Beastly. More sustained.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2012

29Sport 15m
31 *** Beastly Behaviour

Bouldering on a rope. Slopers!

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

29Sport 15m, 6
32 *** Below The Belt

Beastly into One Hit. Biggest endurance challenge in the state.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

31Sport 30m
33 (Impossoproj - Lee - Open)

A bodylength of incredibly bouldery moves. Someone will do it, one day.

34Sport Project 15m
34 (Project - Duncan)

Up into cave/ledge as for PM, then direct up face finishing in BT's cave.

Unknown 15m
35 Particle Boy

Short version of Particle Man. Anchors on right. "Not a route".

FA: Chris Frost

25Sport 25m
36 *** Particle Man

Best endurance 25 in QLD. 50m pitch. Ignore halfway anchor (for lowering only). Take 5 brackets for top section, which trends R to anchors on ledge.

FA: Chris Frost

25Sport 50m
37 *** One Hit To The Body

Brilliant endurance pitch building to a definite crux, but then it's not over.

Start up Particle Man for 6 bolts before heading up and L.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

30Sport 30m
38 Enter The Dragon

Up Particle Man for 3 bolts, left traverse to crux of Gay Abandon, left into Gay Pride for its crux and finish. 60m rope and lots of long runners.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2012

30Sport 30m
39 Gay Abandon p1

An access pitch to 'The Gay Cave'. Up first 3 bolts of Particle Man then traverse directly L to cave.

FA: Chris Frost

16Sport 20m
40 Angry Dragon

Two routes in one. Bouldery 27 off the deck, easy, then bouldery 29 into One Hit.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

29Sport 30m
41 *** Gay Abandon p2

The original Pulpit hard route from the Chris Frost days. Endurance and runouts.

FA: Chris Frost

27Sport 20m
42 ** Gaylord

Top end 28. Crimpy.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

28Sport 15m
43 *** Gay Pride

From the left side of the cave, straight up the bulging green streak.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2011

29Sport 20m
44 *** Gaytime

High quality.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2007

26Sport 15m
45 Access Pitch

Monkey climb tree against cliff, then bolts to ledge (the boneyard). Can climb up into the Gay Cave from here (1 FH), or up to belay ledge for Volts/Deadliest/Pincers.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2011

15Sport 15m
46 (Project - Boneyard)

Climb out of the boneyard into The Volts at the 'big blob'. Not yet equipped.

Sport 25m
47 * The Volts

Starts above IN as for Deadliest Catch. R off belay and up. Wandery, carrots, hard, long.

FA: Chris Frost

25Sport 30m
48 Deadliest Catch

Belay as for The Volts, but go up and L. Best 23 here?

FA: Lee Cujes

23Sport Project 15m
49 The Pincers

Starts at DBB in scoop above IN. Step L, up slab to bulge. Bouldery sequence to ledge hold. Easier finish. Chain anchor above large ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes

26Sport 15m, 7
50 ** Idiot Savant

Sustained face route just L of tree.

FA: Doug Hockly

25Sport 15m
51 ** Incontinent Nostalgia

Old school (runout) and hard for the grade.

FA: Doug Hockly

23Sport 15m
52 Ahead Of The Curve

Arapilesean. Looks impossible, climbs amazingly. Technical and balancy. Best 28 at the cliff if not all of QLD.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

28Sport 28m
53 Bold Curves

Linkup. Climb AOTC to the second bolt before the cave, then L into Hoodwinked (for 2 bolts) then L again into Collywobbles direct to finish.

FA: Duncan Steel, 2012

29Sport 30m
54 ** Hoodwinked And Hornswoggled

Sustained and pumpy on carrots.

FA: Chris Frost

25Sport 20m
55 ** Collywobbles

Bit of a weird one. At rooflet, step L for original (easier, runout) or go direct past FH (harder, well protected).

FA: Chris Frost

25Unknown 20m
56 Bamboozled

Starts from ground. Access pitch for Collywobbles etc. Tricky, be prepared.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2005

20Unknown 25m
57 (Horshner 1)

Two pitches

FA: Andrew Horshner

22Unknown 35m
58 * (Plenderleith 1)

Up the black streak.

FA: Mark Plenderleith

19Unknown 20m
59 (Denise 1)

FA: Denise

15Unknown 20m
60 Prepare To Meet Thy God

Onsight, no-pro lead by Rick White. We're led to believe it's one of the aretes.

FA: Rick White

16Trad 30m

1.2. Front Wall 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Scorpion 15Unknown 25m
2 The Tourist Route

Western side

FA: Jon Stephenson, John Comino

10Unknown 58m
3 The Original Route 14Unknown 25m
4 ** A Day In The Life Of A Married Man 14Unknown 25m
5 ** Noisy Nuptial Nights

11 carrots in the cliff

17Sport 45m, 11
6 *** Anal Snacks 21Unknown 40m
7 ** Tool For Love 22Unknown 45m
8 *** Tool For Love DS 22Unknown 40m
9 ** Dr Devious 26Unknown 40m
10 *** Tales Of Ordinary Madness 25Unknown 45m
11 Headstands In Hell 20Unknown 50m
12 Augering In 22Unknown 20m
13 Lascivious Gnats 23Unknown 20m
14 *** Crumbed Sausage 18Unknown 20m
15 Tepid 18Unknown 20m
16 Man Who Fell To Earth 21Unknown 20m
17 Mollycoddle 21Unknown 36m
18 (Unknown 1) 21Unknown 20m
19 School Boy Terror (prev unknown2) 20Unknown 20m
20 * The Nose Knows 15Unknown 15m
21 (Horchner 2) 21Unknown 25m
22 * If I Was A Bogey Would You Pick My Nose 20Unknown 20m
23 (Unknown 3) Unknown
24 Doug's Pillar 22Unknown 10m
25 Doug's Pillar VF 23Unknown 10m
26 The Pinnacle

Eastern side

FA: John Comino

9Unknown 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
9 The Pinnacle Unknown 10m 1.2. Front Wall
10 The Tourist Route Unknown 58m 1.2. Front Wall
12 Angelique Trad 32m 1.1. Back Wall
14 ** A Day In The Life Of A Married Man Unknown 25m 1.2. Front Wall
The Original Route Unknown 25m 1.2. Front Wall
15 (Denise 1) Unknown 20m 1.1. Back Wall
Access Pitch Sport 15m 1.1. Back Wall
* Scorpion Unknown 25m 1.2. Front Wall
* The Nose Knows Unknown 15m 1.2. Front Wall
16 Gay Abandon p1 Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
Prepare To Meet Thy God Trad 30m 1.1. Back Wall
Rumplestiltskin p3 Trad 20m 1.1. Back Wall
17 ** Noisy Nuptial Nights Sport 45m, 11 1.2. Front Wall
18 *** Crumbed Sausage Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
Tepid Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
19 * (Plenderleith 1) Unknown 20m 1.1. Back Wall
Rumplestiltskin p2 Sport 10m 1.1. Back Wall
20 Bamboozled Unknown 25m 1.1. Back Wall
Billy Bunter Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
The Brothers Grimm Sport 20m, 4 1.1. Back Wall
Headstands In Hell Unknown 50m 1.2. Front Wall
* If I Was A Bogey Would You Pick My Nose Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
School Boy Terror (prev unknown2) Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
21 Danny DeVito p2 Trad 20m 1.1. Back Wall
* Fisting By The Pool Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
** Rapunzel Sport 20m, 8 1.1. Back Wall
** Rumplestiltskin p1 Sport 20m, 5 1.1. Back Wall
(Horchner 2) Unknown 25m 1.2. Front Wall
(Unknown 1) Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
*** Anal Snacks Unknown 40m 1.2. Front Wall
Man Who Fell To Earth Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
Mollycoddle Unknown 36m 1.2. Front Wall
22 (Horshner 1) Unknown 35m 1.1. Back Wall
* Danny DeVito p1 Sport 10m 1.1. Back Wall
The Seven Ravens Sport 18m 1.1. Back Wall
Augering In Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
Doug's Pillar Unknown 10m 1.2. Front Wall
** Tool For Love Unknown 45m 1.2. Front Wall
*** Tool For Love DS Unknown 40m 1.2. Front Wall
23 Deadliest Catch Sport Project 15m 1.1. Back Wall
** Incontinent Nostalgia Sport 15m 1.1. Back Wall
Mugwump p2 Trad 25m 1.1. Back Wall
Doug's Pillar VF Unknown 10m 1.2. Front Wall
Lascivious Gnats Unknown 20m 1.2. Front Wall
24 * Add The Draw Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
** Orange Slice Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
The Keymaster Sport 10m 1.1. Back Wall
25 ** Collywobbles Unknown 20m 1.1. Back Wall
** Hoodwinked And Hornswoggled Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
** Idiot Savant Sport 15m 1.1. Back Wall
Particle Boy Sport 25m 1.1. Back Wall
*** Particle Man Sport 50m 1.1. Back Wall
* The Volts Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
* Tongue And Groove Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
** Two Hours Sleep Sport 20m, 6 1.1. Back Wall
*** Tales Of Ordinary Madness Unknown 45m 1.2. Front Wall
26 *** Countdown Sport 25m 1.1. Back Wall
*** Gaytime Sport 15m 1.1. Back Wall
Mugwump Direct Sport 1.1. Back Wall
** Mugwump p1 Sport 12m 1.1. Back Wall
** The Doorkeeper Sport 12m 1.1. Back Wall
The Pincers Sport 15m, 7 1.1. Back Wall
** Dr Devious Unknown 40m 1.2. Front Wall
27 *** Gay Abandon p2 Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
** Vein's Bane Sport 27m 1.1. Back Wall
28 Ahead Of The Curve Sport 28m 1.1. Back Wall
*** Beautiful Thing Sport 20m, 5 1.1. Back Wall
** Gaylord Sport 15m 1.1. Back Wall
Pretender Sport 18m 1.1. Back Wall
29 Angry Dragon Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
*** Beastly Behaviour Sport 15m, 6 1.1. Back Wall
Bold Curves Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
*** Gay Pride Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
Well Behaved Sport 15m 1.1. Back Wall
30 Enter The Dragon Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
*** One Hit To The Body Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
31 *** Below The Belt Sport 30m 1.1. Back Wall
Shadenfreude Sport 14m 1.1. Back Wall
31 to 32 Vicious Wishes Sport 7 1.1. Back Wall
32 *** The Don Sport 20m 1.1. Back Wall
The Singularity Sport 17m 1.1. Back Wall
34 (Impossoproj - Lee - Open) Sport Project 15m 1.1. Back Wall
? (Link Project - Open) Sport Project 1.1. Back Wall
(Project - Boneyard) Sport 25m 1.1. Back Wall
(Project - Duncan) Unknown 15m 1.1. Back Wall
(Unknown 3) Unknown 1.2. Front Wall