The Towers All trad climbing

41 routes in cliff

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Description

The Towers is the North facing cliff line that is visible from the car park.

Access issues inherited from The Rock

This reserve is 6 km west of The Rock village on Lockhart Road, 35 km east of Lockhart and 40 km south-west of Wagga Wagga off the Olympic Highway. From 1st July to 31 December The Rock is closed to all 'Rock Sports', due to breeding Peregrine Falcons.

Approach

Take the marked tourist track (Yerong Nature Trail) from the carpark, and turn up the obvious track on the right after about 100 metres. The track is not marked. This leads you up a fairly easy trail to the base of the cliff line and should take about twenty minutes.

Climbers should, where possible, descend using the very adequate rappelling points, the position of which are marked by a small cairn at the top of the climbs. Note that a 50m rope will only just touch the ground from these points if it is slung half way. A 60m rope would be more appropriate. If a 50m rope is used you will have to rappel to a ledge that is about 2m above the ground, then downclimb. A knot in the end of the rope is highly recommended.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
6 The Ladder Trad 15m

Easy beginners' climb on small clifline L. of where old track ascends cliff. Start at the ladder like recess.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

2
8 Daisy Trad 30m

Wall several m. L. of descent gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

3
4 Descent Gully Trad 35m
4
8 MMMM Trad 30m

Wall R. of descent gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

5
5 Kidstuff Trad 20m

Layback crack 8m R. of DG. Line L. of bush, then directly to roof.

FA: Glen Holloway, 1993

6
10 Traverse #1 Trad 30m

Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up peice.

FA: Andrew Hedley, 1973

7
11 Leeper Traverse Trad 35m

Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up peice.

FA: Andrew Hedley, 1973

8
18 The Nose Trad 35m

Start marked (TN). Nose to roof. Step R. and ascend wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (15,M1, 1973

FFA: Greg Smith, Jeff Boyton, 1976

9
10 Bill's Climb Trad 35m

Start marked (BC). One of the first climbs completed at The Rock. Chimney formed by large block. Veer slightly R. up wall, then gully. Bill Davis and Scout group 4/72.Two alternative finishes are on wall L. of exit gully.Line closest to gully is grade 10; line further L. is grade 8.

FA: Andrew Hedly, Jeff Boyton., 1974

10
13 Traverse #2 Trad 40m

Start marked (T2). Corner, then pleasantly up wall. Veer slightly R. to roof. Traverse R. under roof t easiest line on R. side of overhang. Slight bulge, then directly up.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

11
12 Honourable Harry Trad 35m

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

12
12 Mrs Fairy Trad 35m

Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

13
20 Temptation Trad 40m

A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L. of Terminator. R. side of face. First crux moves protected by BR. Rest of face is adequately protected by RPs. From horizontal, move R. to join Terminator or step L. through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R. side of gully.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

14
20 Terminator Trad 40m

One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L. of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L. side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L. using prominent hold on L. wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof). Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look.).

FA: Jeff Boyton, Edward Fairleigh 1970's.

15
15 * Scratched Knees Trad 35m

Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R. of Terminator (just L. of large nose). R. side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R., but head straight up through roof and finish up L. line.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

16
19 Wall Flower Trad 35m

Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R. to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux.

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Claire, 1989

17
21 * Staircase Mixed 35m, 2

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew Driscoll, 1989

18
15 ** Angie Trad 35m

Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. L. past some large, loose blocks, then continue up.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

19
19 *** Outside Edge Trad 40m

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R. line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Iain Sedgman, Andrew Webb, 1984

20
17 * Lest We Forget Trad 40m

Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. 1) Start R of Angie and follow thin, diagonal line on face to roof. Exit R. Belay just round roof on blocky stance. 2) Step back L., then steep line.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Glen Donohue (alt), 1984

21
22 Secret Agent Man Trad 20m

First line R. of LWF. Thin crack, moving R. to horizontal. Traverse L. along horizontal to meet LWF.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew Driscoll., 1989

22
23 Chaos Trad 20m

Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R. to overlap. Stretch past BR to small roof. Over roof and up face until under large roof. Finish up LWF. (#5 stopper is useful over roof).

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Caire, Andrew Driscoll, 1989

23
23 Chaos Roof Trad 20m

After climbing CHAOS, instead of continuing up LWF climb L corner of roof.

FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham, Andrew McAuley, 1989

24
9 Jammer's Delight Trad 40m

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley., 1973

25

Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L. wall.

FA: Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, 1984

26

Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above.

FA: Iain Sedgman, 1984

27
22 Comfortably Numb Trad 40m

Thin line 3m R. of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place.

FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham, Andrew, 1989

28
14 Virgin's Crack Trad 40m

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

29
18 Mohammed Trad 40m

Follow for VC for 1m, then move R. onto arête. (If you reach L. into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap.

FA: Andrew McAuley 80's.

30
22 Chromium Dog Trad 40m

R. of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L. and up into loose corner.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley., 1989

31
24 Space Junk Trad 40m

Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R. of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L., climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L. and traverse R. along horizontal to finish the line (23).

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

32
18 Instant Religion Trad 40m

Steep face 4m R. of VC. Take line at R. side, about 3m L. of Andrew and detached block. Veer L. with line into short corner (crux).

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, D Harris, Tony Velling, 1985

33
18 Andrew Trad 40m

20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L. end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton, 1974

34
19 Out of Africa Trad 40m

Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R. side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Robert Cowan, 1989

35

2m R. of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Robert Cowan, 1989

36
21 Grand Larceny Trad 40m

Just L. of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L. of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Robert Cowan, Spring 1987. Direct Start added by Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

37
20 The Brisbane Line Trad 40m

Starts at R. end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher,, 1984

38
21 FM (Full Manual) Trad 40m

Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R. of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R. corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face.

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Claire, 1989

39
17 April Fools Trad 45m

Starts 5m R. of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (14, M1), 1973

FFA: Greg Smith, Jeff Boyton, 1976

40
11 Benders Lane Trad 32m

20m Start at belay 13m R. of AF (up scrubby gully). Tend L., then cracks and ledges to main ledge

41
5 L Plates Trad 20m

At the bottom R end of The Towers wall before it turns chossy is a 20m high butress about 50m R of Benders Lane. Start directly in front of butress and up 5m past a finger crack to a large ledge. Continue 10m up corner and step left onto smaller ledge. Up last 5m past large broken crack and block. Ascending -from the top 50m further to the R a cairn marks an easy ramp scramble back down.

FA: Darren Miles, 2001