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Showing all 43 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6 The Ladder

Easy beginners' climb on small clifline L. of where old track ascends cliff. Start at the ladder like recess.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974

Trad 15m
8 Daisy

Wall several m. L. of descent gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974

Trad 30m
4 Descent Gully
Trad 35m
8 MMMM

Wall R. of descent gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974

Trad 30m
5 Kidstuff

Layback crack 8m R. of DG. Line L. of bush, then directly to roof.

FA: Glen Holloway, 1993

Trad 20m
10 Traverse #1

Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up peice.

FA: Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 30m
11 Leeper Traverse

Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up peice.

FA: Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 35m
18 The Nose

Start marked (TN). Nose to roof. Step R. and ascend wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (15 & M1, 1973

FFA: Greg Smith & Jeff Boyton, 1976

Trad 35m
10 Bill's Climb

Start marked (BC). One of the first climbs completed at The Rock. Chimney formed by large block. Veer slightly R. up wall, then gully. Bill Davis and Scout group 4/72.Two alternative finishes are on wall L. of exit gully.Line closest to gully is grade 10; line further L. is grade 8.

FA: Andrew Hedly & Jeff Boyton., 1974

Trad 35m
13 Traverse #2

Start marked (T2). Corner, then pleasantly up wall. Veer slightly R. to roof. Traverse R. under roof t easiest line on R. side of overhang. Slight bulge, then directly up.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 40m
12 Honourable Harry

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 35m
12 Mrs Fairy

Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 35m
20 Temptation

A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L. of Terminator. R. side of face. First crux face is protected by 3 BRs. Rest of route is adequately protected by gear. From horizontal, move R. to join Terminator (best finish) or step L through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R side of gully.

FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989

Mixed 40m, 3
20 Terminator

One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L. of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L. side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L. using prominent hold on L wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof but don't bother) Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look.).

FA: Jeff Boyton & Edward Fairleigh 1970's.

Trad 40m
15 Scratched Knees

Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R. of Terminator (just L. of large nose). R. side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R., but head straight up through roof and finish up L. line.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 35m
19 Wall Flower

Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R. to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux.

FA: Robert Cowan & Greg Claire, 1989

Trad 35m
21 Staircase

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew Driscoll, 1989

Mixed 35m, 2
23 Incensed

Start as for Angie. Up this for 5m to a traverse line. Traverse L to join SC for about 4m then traverse L again to the arete and follow this to the SC anchor.

FA: 31 May 2015

Mixed 15m, 3
15 Angie

Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. Pass the roof on the left. Continue past some large, loose blocks, then up to the top of the cliff.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 35m
19 Outside Edge

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R. line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Iain Sedgman & Andrew Webb, 1984

Trad 40m
Project

Closed project please stay off. Steep with a difficult move to reach the lip. Start as for OE or LWF and climb either of these for the first 5m before stepping onto the arête. Follow this to the first roof, step R under this, up a move then a hard move out L to the lip. Finish up the face to the lower off on OE below the death choss at top..

Set by Matt Brooks, 8 May 2017

MixedProject 25m, 5
17 Lest We Forget

Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. 1) Start R of Angie and follow thin, diagonal line on face to roof. Exit R. Belay just round roof on blocky stance. DBB lower off here also. 2) Step back L., then steep line.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Glen Donohue (alt), 1984

Trad 40m
22 Secret Agent Man

First line R. of LWF. Thin crack, moving R. to horizontal. Traverse L. along horizontal to meet LWF.

FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew Driscoll., 1989

Trad 20m
23 Chaos

Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R. to overlap. Move R past a FH up thin flake and face past 2FHs to small roof. Over roof and up face until just R of large roof. Finish up closed flake past 2FHs to lower off R of LWF. (#5 stopper and 2 small cams is useful after roof). Direct finish added in May 2017, makes for more direct and fun route.

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Caire & Andrew Driscoll, 1989

Mixed 20m, 1
23 Chaos Roof

Climb CHAOS past the 3 FHs and small roof then traverse L climbing the lip of the LWF roof and face before reaching the lower off on OE.

FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham & Andrew McAuley, 1989

Mixed 25m, 3
9 Jammer's Delight

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley., 1973

Trad 40m
8 Jammer's Delight Variant Finish

Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L. wall.

FA: Glen Donohue & Andrew Webb, 1984

Trad 40m
18 The Brink of Misery

Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above.

FA: Iain Sedgman, 1984

Trad 40m
22 Comfortably Numb

Thin line 3m R. of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place.

FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham & Andrew, 1989

Trad 40m
14 Virgin's Crack

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Trad 40m
18 Mohammed

Follow for VC for 1m, then move R. onto arête. (If you reach L. into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap.

FA: Andrew McAuley 80's.

Trad 40m
22 Chromium Dog

R. of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L. and up into loose corner.

FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley., 1989

Trad 40m
24 Space Junk

Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R. of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L., climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L. and traverse R. along horizontal to finish the line (23).

FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989

Trad 40m
18 Instant Religion

Steep face 4m R. of VC. Take line at R. side, about 3m L. of Andrew and detached block. Veer L. with line into short corner (crux).

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, D Harris & Tony Velling, 1985

Trad 40m
18 Andrew

20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L. end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Harry Boyton, 1974

Trad 40m
19 Out of Africa

Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R. side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner.

FA: Andrew McAuley & Robert Cowan, 1989

Trad 40m
19 Rambunctious Flamboyance

2m R. of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece.

FA: Andrew McAuley & Robert Cowan, 1989

Trad 40m
21 Grand Larceny

Just L. of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L. of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Robert Cowan, Spring 1987. Direct Start added by Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989

Trad 40m
20 The Brisbane Line

Starts at R. end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1984

Trad 40m
21 FM (Full Manual)

Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R. of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R. corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face.

FA: Robert Cowan & Greg Claire, 1989

Trad 40m
17 April Fools

Starts 5m R. of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (14 & M1), 1973

FFA: Greg Smith & Jeff Boyton, 1976

Trad 45m
11 Benders Lane

20m Start at belay 13m R. of AF (up scrubby gully). Tend L., then cracks and ledges to main ledge

Trad 32m
5 L Plates

At the bottom R end of The Towers wall before it turns chossy is a 20m high butress about 50m R of Benders Lane. Start directly in front of butress and up 5m past a finger crack to a large ledge. Continue 10m up corner and step left onto smaller ledge. Up last 5m past large broken crack and block. Ascending -from the top 50m further to the R a cairn marks an easy ramp scramble back down.

FA: Darren Miles, 2001

Trad 20m

Showing all 43 routes.