Topo #12574 - The Towers - Disorientation Butress

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 * Controversy

L of TL is a prominent arete with a steep R face. Follow the R side of this arete

24 Sport 15m, 6 Unlink route
2 *** Disorientation

Superb steep and technical climbing, packs in a lot for 20m. Line heading up R from C. Climb C till the 4th RB then head R and up the steep wall, keep L of the slab corner.

25 Sport 20m, 8 Unlink route
3 The Ladder

Easy beginners' climb on small clifline L. of where old track ascends cliff. Start at the ladder like recess.

6 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #12575 - The Towers - Honorable Harry

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Route Grade Popularity Style
11 Bill's Climb

Start marked (BC). One of the first climbs completed at The Rock. Chimney formed by large block. Veer slightly R. up wall, then gully. Bill Davis and Scout group 4/72.Two alternative finishes are on wall L. of exit gully.Line closest to gully is grade 10; line further L. is grade 8.

10 Trad 35m Unlink route
12 Traverse #2

Start marked (T2). Corner, then pleasantly up wall. Veer slightly R. to roof. Traverse R. under roof t easiest line on R. side of overhang. Slight bulge, then directly up.

13 Trad 40m Unlink route
13 Honourable Harry

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

12 Trad 35m Unlink route

Topo #12576 - The Towers - Harry the Fairy

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 Honourable Harry

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

12 Trad 35m Unlink route
14 ** Harry the Fairy

Some delicate footwork whilst on side pulls gets you to an easier finish. Start as for HH, boulder up R to RB then straight up the wall to lower off on ledge.

18 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route
15 Mrs Fairy

Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches.

12 Trad 35m Unlink route

Topo #12577 - The Towers - Temptation

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Route Grade Popularity Style
15 Mrs Fairy

Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches.

12 Trad 35m Unlink route
16 * Temptation

A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L. of Terminator. R. side of face. First crux face is protected by 3 BRs. Rest of route is adequately protected by gear. From horizontal, move R. to join Terminator (best finish) or step L through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R side of gully.

20 Mixed 40m, 3 Unlink route
17 * Terminator

One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L. of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L. side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L. using prominent hold on L wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof but don't bother) Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look.).

20 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #12578 - The Towers - Scratched Knees

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Route Grade Popularity Style
17 * Terminator

One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L. of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L. side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L. using prominent hold on L wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof but don't bother) Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look.).

20 Trad 40m Unlink route
18 ** Scratched Knees

Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R. of Terminator (just L. of large nose). R. side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R., but head straight up through roof and finish up L. line.

15 Trad 35m Unlink route
19 Wall Flower

Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R. to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux.

19 Trad 35m Unlink route
20 Wilted

Start 2m R of Wallflower on the face under the roof. Up this face to the roof. Step L into WF for a few moves then traverse back just above the roof to the arête. Follow this to the top where WF joins it.

19 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #12579 - The Towers - Angie

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Route Grade Popularity Style
20 Wilted

Start 2m R of Wallflower on the face under the roof. Up this face to the roof. Step L into WF for a few moves then traverse back just above the roof to the arête. Follow this to the top where WF joins it.

19 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route
21 ** Staircase

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

21 Mixed 35m, 2 Unlink route
22 ** Incensed

Start as for Angie. Up this for 5m to a traverse line. Traverse L to join SC for about 4m then traverse L again to the arete and follow this to the SC anchor.

23 Mixed 15m, 3 Unlink route
23 ** Angie

Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. L. past some large, loose blocks, then continue up.

15 Trad 35m Unlink route
24 *** Outside Edge

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R. line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top.

19 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #12580 - The Towers - Outside Edge

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Route Grade Popularity Style
22 ** Incensed

Start as for Angie. Up this for 5m to a traverse line. Traverse L to join SC for about 4m then traverse L again to the arete and follow this to the SC anchor.

23 Mixed 15m, 3 Unlink route
23 ** Angie

Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. L. past some large, loose blocks, then continue up.

15 Trad 35m Unlink route
24 *** Outside Edge

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R. line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top.

19 Trad 40m Unlink route
25 * Lest We Forget

Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. 1) Start R of Angie and follow thin, diagonal line on face to roof. Exit R. Belay just round roof on blocky stance. DBB lower off here also. 2) Step back L., then steep line.

17 Trad 40m Unlink route
26 Secret Agent Man

First line R. of LWF. Thin crack, moving R. to horizontal. Traverse L. along horizontal to meet LWF.

22 Trad 20m Unlink route

Topo #12581 - The Towers - Chaos

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Route Grade Popularity Style
26 Secret Agent Man

First line R. of LWF. Thin crack, moving R. to horizontal. Traverse L. along horizontal to meet LWF.

22 Trad 20m Unlink route
27 Chaos

Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R. to overlap. Stretch past BR to small roof. Over roof and up face until under large roof. Finish up LWF. (#5 stopper is useful over roof).

23 Mixed 20m, 1 Unlink route
28 Chaos Roof

After climbing CHAOS, instead of continuing up LWF climb L corner of roof.

23 Trad 20m Unlink route
29 Jammer's Delight

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

9 Trad 40m Unlink route
30 Jammer's Delight Variant Finish

Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L. wall.

8 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #12582 - The Towers - Jammers Delight

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Route Grade Popularity Style
29 Jammer's Delight

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

9 Trad 40m Unlink route
30 Jammer's Delight Variant Finish

Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L. wall.

8 Trad 40m Unlink route
31 The Brink of Misery

Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
32 Comfortably Numb

Thin line 3m R. of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route
33 Virgin's Crack

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

14 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #12583 - The Towers - Virgins Crack

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Route Grade Popularity Style
32 Comfortably Numb

Thin line 3m R. of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route
33 Virgin's Crack

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

14 Trad 40m Unlink route
34 Mohammed

Follow for VC for 1m, then move R. onto arête. (If you reach L. into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
35 ** The Infidel

Nice face climbing, a little contrived as it steps L into Mohammed. Start 2m R of VC. Pull up R onto face for a few moves then Boulder L to join M. Up M for a few moves before traversing R a few metres before climbing diagonally R over the overlap and face to the anchors of BS

22 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #12584 - The Towers - Infidel

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Route Grade Popularity Style
34 Mohammed

Follow for VC for 1m, then move R. onto arête. (If you reach L. into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
35 ** The Infidel

Nice face climbing, a little contrived as it steps L into Mohammed. Start 2m R of VC. Pull up R onto face for a few moves then Boulder L to join M. Up M for a few moves before traversing R a few metres before climbing diagonally R over the overlap and face to the anchors of BS

22 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route
36 ** Battle Scars

Start 3m L of CD. Make some hard moves diagonally R to a jug then up a short crack to a horizontal. Step L 2m then straight up over the Arapiles style bulge to the finish.

24 Sport 20m Unlink route
37 Chromium Dog

R. of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L. and up into loose corner.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #12585 - The Towers - Space Junk

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Route Grade Popularity Style
37 Chromium Dog

R. of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L. and up into loose corner.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route
38 Space Junk

Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R. of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L., climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L. and traverse R. along horizontal to finish the line (23).

24 Trad 40m Unlink route
39 *** Cosmic Trash

Superb rock and nice face climbing. Starts 2m R of SJ follow the thin R leaning line up the wall staying approx 2m R of SJ the whole way.

26 Sport 25m, 8 Unlink route

Topo #12586 - The Towers - Cosmic Trash

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Route Grade Popularity Style
38 Space Junk

Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R. of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L., climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L. and traverse R. along horizontal to finish the line (23).

24 Trad 40m Unlink route
39 *** Cosmic Trash

Superb rock and nice face climbing. Starts 2m R of SJ follow the thin R leaning line up the wall staying approx 2m R of SJ the whole way.

26 Sport 25m, 8 Unlink route
40 Instant Religion

Steep face 4m R. of VC. Take line at R. side, about 3m L. of Andrew and detached block. Veer L. with line into short corner (crux).

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
41 *** The Unknown

Fantastic face and arete climbing with a sneaky step R at 2/3s height that makes it all go. Climb the arete immediately L of A to the second break after the slopy ledge. Step R into A at the roof climb this for a 1m and then step back L around the corner to the next BR. Climb the last bit of arete and face in a spectacular position to the top. Lower off below the choss at the top.

23 Sport 22m, 7 Unlink route

Topo #12588 - The Towers - Andrew

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Route Grade Popularity Style
41 *** The Unknown

Fantastic face and arete climbing with a sneaky step R at 2/3s height that makes it all go. Climb the arete immediately L of A to the second break after the slopy ledge. Step R into A at the roof climb this for a 1m and then step back L around the corner to the next BR. Climb the last bit of arete and face in a spectacular position to the top. Lower off below the choss at the top.

23 Sport 22m, 7 Unlink route
42 Andrew

20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L. end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #12591

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Route Grade Popularity Style
42 Andrew

20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L. end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
43 Out of Africa

Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R. side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner.

19 Trad 40m Unlink route
44 * The Hot Zone

Bouldery crux down low. Face route up wall in behind detached pillar crossing OOA finishing at the anchors ledge on the ledge if Andrew.

23 Sport 18m, 5 Unlink route
45 Rambunctious Flamboyance

2m R. of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece.

19 Trad 40m Unlink route
46 Grand Larceny

Just L. of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L. of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above.

21 Trad 40m Unlink route
47 The Brisbane Line

Starts at R. end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner.

20 Trad 40m Unlink route
48 FM (Full Manual)

Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R. of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R. corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face.

21 Trad 40m Unlink route
49 April Fools

Starts 5m R. of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line.

17 Trad 45m Unlink route
50 Benders Lane

20m Start at belay 13m R. of AF (up scrubby gully). Tend L., then cracks and ledges to main ledge

11 Trad 32m Unlink route

Topo #12593

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Route Grade Popularity Style
46 Grand Larceny

Just L. of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L. of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above.

21 Trad 40m Unlink route
47 The Brisbane Line

Starts at R. end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner.

20 Trad 40m Unlink route
48 FM (Full Manual)

Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R. of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R. corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face.

21 Trad 40m Unlink route
49 April Fools

Starts 5m R. of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line.

17 Trad 45m Unlink route
50 Benders Lane

20m Start at belay 13m R. of AF (up scrubby gully). Tend L., then cracks and ledges to main ledge

11 Trad 32m Unlink route

Topo #12589

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Route Grade Popularity Style
51 L Plates

At the bottom R end of The Towers wall before it turns chossy is a 20m high butress about 50m R of Benders Lane. Start directly in front of butress and up 5m past a finger crack to a large ledge. Continue 10m up corner and step left onto smaller ledge. Up last 5m past large broken crack and block. Ascending -from the top 50m further to the R a cairn marks an easy ramp scramble back down.

5 Trad 20m Unlink route

Topo #3512

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Area Type
? Upper Terrace

Continue up the Yerong Nature Trail towards the summit, on the terrace above The Main Face are two tiers, go to the top tier.

Cliff Unlink area
? The Main Face

A great climbing area for a hot afternoon.

Cliff Unlink area
? Central Butress

Access to Central Buttress is easiest by way of the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Follow the track towards the summit, as the track becomes steeper it switches back a few times until the track passes under the The Main Face. Before passing under the The Main Face traverse right to the foot of the Central Buttress. This may require some easy bush bashing as the track is not obvious from the Yerong Nature Trail. Access to the Central Walls is either by traversing left from the base of The Towers cliff line, or by traversing right along the cliff line from the Central Buttress. Climbs are described from left to right; from the Central Buttress towards The Towers along the Central Walls.

Cliff Unlink area
? The Towers

The Towers is the North facing cliff line that is visible from the car park and contains the majority of the routes at The Rock.

Cliff Unlink area

Topo #12592

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