Topo #3538 - TN & BC Marker/Start

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Route Grade Popularity Style
10 The Nose

Start marked (TN). Nose to roof. Step R. and ascend wall.

18 Trad 35m Unlink route
11 Bill's Climb

Start marked (BC). One of the first climbs completed at The Rock. Chimney formed by large block. Veer slightly R. up wall, then gully. Bill Davis and Scout group 4/72.Two alternative finishes are on wall L. of exit gully.Line closest to gully is grade 10; line further L. is grade 8.

10 Trad 35m Unlink route

Topo #3510

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Route Grade Popularity Style
12 Traverse #2

Start marked (T2). Corner, then pleasantly up wall. Veer slightly R. to roof. Traverse R. under roof t easiest line on R. side of overhang. Slight bulge, then directly up.

13 Trad 40m Unlink route
13 Honourable Harry

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

12 Trad 35m Unlink route
14 * Harry the Fairy

Some delicate footwork whilst on side pulls gets you to an easier finish. Start as for HH, boulder up R to RB then straight up the wall to lower off on ledge.

18 Sport 20m, 4 Unlink route

Topo #3536 - HH Marker/Start

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Route Grade Popularity Style
13 Honourable Harry

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

12 Trad 35m Unlink route

Topo #3507

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Route Grade Popularity Style
18 ** Scratched Knees

Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R. of Terminator (just L. of large nose). R. side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R., but head straight up through roof and finish up L. line.

15 Trad 35m Unlink route
19 Wall Flower

Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R. to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux.

19 Trad 35m Unlink route
21 ** Staircase

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

21 Mixed 35m, 2 Unlink route
20 Wilted

Start 2m R of Wallflower on the face under the roof. Up this face to the roof. Step L into WF for a few moves then traverse back just above the roof to the arête. Follow this to the top where WF joins it.

19 Sport 15m, 4 Unlink route
16 * Temptation

A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L. of Terminator. R. side of face. First crux face is protected by 3 BRs. Rest of route is adequately protected by gear. From horizontal, move R. to join Terminator (best finish) or step L through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R side of gully.

20 Mixed 40m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #3363

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Route Grade Popularity Style
21 ** Staircase

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

21 Mixed 35m, 2 Unlink route
23 ** Angie

Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. L. past some large, loose blocks, then continue up.

15 Trad 35m Unlink route
24 *** Outside Edge

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R. line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top.

19 Trad 40m Unlink route
22 ** Incensed

Start as for Angie. Up this for 5m to a traverse line. Traverse L to join SC for about 4m then traverse L again to the arete and follow this to the SC anchor.

23 Mixed 15m, 3 Unlink route
25 * Lest We Forget

Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. 1) Start R of Angie and follow thin, diagonal line on face to roof. Exit R. Belay just round roof on blocky stance. DBB lower off here also. 2) Step back L., then steep line.

17 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #3508

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Route Grade Popularity Style
29 Jammer's Delight

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

9 Trad 40m Unlink route
26 Secret Agent Man

First line R. of LWF. Thin crack, moving R. to horizontal. Traverse L. along horizontal to meet LWF.

22 Trad 20m Unlink route
27 Chaos

Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R. to overlap. Stretch past BR to small roof. Over roof and up face until under large roof. Finish up LWF. (#5 stopper is useful over roof).

23 Mixed 20m, 1 Unlink route
28 Chaos Roof

After climbing CHAOS, instead of continuing up LWF climb L corner of roof.

23 Trad 20m Unlink route
37 Chromium Dog

R. of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L. and up into loose corner.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route
31 The Brink of Misery

Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #3537 - JD Marker/Start

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Route Grade Popularity Style
29 Jammer's Delight

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

9 Trad 40m Unlink route
30 Jammer's Delight Variant Finish

Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L. wall.

8 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #3509

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Route Grade Popularity Style
33 Virgin's Crack

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

14 Trad 40m Unlink route
36 ** Battle Scars

Start 3m L of CD. Make some hard moves diagonally R to a jug then up a short crack to a horizontal. Step L 2m then straight up over the Arapiles style bulge to the finish.

24 Sport 20m Unlink route
32 Comfortably Numb

Thin line 3m R. of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route
34 Mohammed

Follow for VC for 1m, then move R. onto arête. (If you reach L. into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
35 ** The Infidel

Nice face climbing, a little contrived as it steps L into Mohammed. Start 2m R of VC. Pull up R onto face for a few moves then Boulder L to join M. Up M for a few moves before traversing R a few metres before climbing diagonally R over the overlap and face to the anchors of BS

22 Sport 15m, 5 Unlink route

Topo #3539 - VC Start/Marker

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Route Grade Popularity Style
33 Virgin's Crack

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

14 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #3512

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Area Type
? Upper Terrace

Continue up the Yerong Nature Trail towards the summit, on the terrace above The Main Face are two tiers, go to the top tier.

Cliff Unlink area
? The Main Face

A great climbing area for a hot afternoon.

Cliff Unlink area
? Central Butress

Access to Central Buttress is easiest by way of the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Follow the track towards the summit, as the track becomes steeper it switches back a few times until the track passes under the The Main Face. Before passing under the The Main Face traverse right to the foot of the Central Buttress. This may require some easy bush bashing as the track is not obvious from the Yerong Nature Trail. Access to the Central Walls is either by traversing left from the base of The Towers cliff line, or by traversing right along the cliff line from the Central Buttress. Climbs are described from left to right; from the Central Buttress towards The Towers along the Central Walls.

Cliff Unlink area
? The Towers

The Towers is the North facing cliff line that is visible from the car park and contains the majority of the routes at The Rock.

Cliff Unlink area

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