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Description

Climbing is currently prohibited at the Central Butress by NSWP.

Access issues inherited from The Rock

This reserve is 6 km west of The Rock village on Lockhart Road, 35 km east of Lockhart and 40 km south-west of Wagga Wagga off the Olympic Highway.

From 1st July to 31 December The Rock is closed to all 'Rock Sports', due to breeding Peregrine Falcons. A sign is put in place when the birds are nesting in this area. For more information check the NPWS website: https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/adventure-sports-experiences/the-towers

Climbing is only permitted at The Towers and is prohibited in other areas of the reserve at this time.

Approach

Access to Central Buttress is easiest by way of the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Follow the track towards the summit, as the track becomes steeper it switches back a few times until the track passes under the The Main Face. Before passing under the The Main Face traverse right to the foot of the Central Buttress. This may require some easy bush bashing as the track is not obvious from the Yerong Nature Trail. Access to the Central Walls is either by traversing left from the base of The Towers cliff line, or by traversing right along the cliff line from the Central Buttress. Climbs are described from left to right; from the Central Buttress towards The Towers along the Central Walls.

Ethic inherited from The Rock

Taken from the NPWS signage located at The Towers:

Rockclimbing and abseiling within The Rock Nature Reserve may only be carried out with the consent of the director-General of the National Parks and Wildlife Service. Consent is given upon compliance with the Code of Conduct and completion of the Register book located at the base of The Towers.

Code of Coduct *Rock activities are only permitted on the NE rock face known as The Towers

*Parties are to be no larger than 4 people for rock climbing and 8 for abseiling.

*No new climbs are to be established outside of the designated rock activities area.

*Do not mark the location of climbs.

*Do not attach permanent anchor points to rocks, USE REMOVABLE GEAR only.

*Do not chip or glue route, brush or "garden" the rock face and avoid excessive use of chalk.

*Where possible descend via the cliff face to minimise erosion.

*Tread Lightly, keep to rocks, hard ground and established tracks.

*All flora and fauna are protected in The Rock Nature Reserve and must not be picked, harmed or disturbed in any way. Take especial care not to harm the Threatened plant Woolly Ragwort (Senecio gariandii).

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at L. side of (marked) buttress. L. crack system.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Start at R. side of (marked) buttress. R. crack system.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Start marked. Zigzag up start, then wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976

Start marked. Easy gully to top of cliff.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Harry Boyton, 1973

Start Marked. Up large crack to alcove on L. Follow obvious crack to crux. Reachy move into alcove rest. Step R and up to belay on L.

FA: Damien Brook, Mick Sander & Ange Boyd, 27 Apr 2013

Start marked. Start on high-angled, mossy slab about 60m from Exit Gully. Directly up slab.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974

Easy crack just R. of Friction Boots slab.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

Start marked. Up crack past bushes, follow layback right past small roof then on to top

FA: Mick Sander, Ange Boyd & Damien Brook, 27 Apr 2013

On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big L. chimney

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973

On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big R. chimney

FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith., 1975

Activity

Check out what is happening in Central Butress.