Central Butress All trad climbing

10 routes in cliff

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Access issues inherited from The Rock

This reserve is 6 km west of The Rock village on Lockhart Road, 35 km east of Lockhart and 40 km south-west of Wagga Wagga off the Olympic Highway. From 1st July to 31 December The Rock is closed to all 'Rock Sports', due to breeding Peregrine Falcons.

Approach

Access to Central Buttress is easiest by way of the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Follow the track towards the summit, as the track becomes steeper it switches back a few times until the track passes under the The Main Face. Before passing under the The Main Face traverse right to the foot of the Central Buttress. This may require some easy bush bashing as the track is not obvious from the Yerong Nature Trail. Access to the Central Walls is either by traversing left from the base of The Towers cliff line, or by traversing right along the cliff line from the Central Buttress. Climbs are described from left to right; from the Central Buttress towards The Towers along the Central Walls.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start at L. side of (marked) buttress. L. crack system.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

2

Start at R. side of (marked) buttress. R. crack system.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

3
14 Zed Crack Trad 35m

Start marked. Zigzag up start, then wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

4
7 Exit Gully Trad 30m

Start marked. Easy gully to top of cliff.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton, 1973

5
15 Mr Toad Trad 25m

Start Marked. Up large crack to alcove on L. Follow obvious crack to crux. Reachy move into alcove rest. Step R and up to belay on L.

FA: Damien Brook, Mick Sander & Ange Boyd, 2013

6
17 Friction Boots Trad 25m

Start marked. Start on high-angled, mossy slab about 60m from Exit Gully. Directly up slab.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

7
8 Easy Crack Trad 25m

Easy crack just R. of Friction Boots slab.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

8
10 Slippery Serpent Trad 30m

Start marked. Up crack past bushes, follow layback right past small roof then on to top

FA: Mick Sander, Ange Boyd, Damien Brook, 2013

9
14 Jeff's Chimney Trad 35m

On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big L. chimney

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

10
14 Greg's Chimney Trad 35m

On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big R. chimney

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith., 1975