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Description

Climbing is currently prohibited at The Main Face by NSWP.

Access issues inherited from The Rock

This reserve is 6 km west of The Rock village on Lockhart Road, 35 km east of Lockhart and 40 km south-west of Wagga Wagga off the Olympic Highway.

From 1st July to 31 December The Rock is closed to all 'Rock Sports', due to breeding Peregrine Falcons. A sign is put in place when the birds are nesting in this area. For more information check the NPWS website: https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/adventure-sports-experiences/the-towers

Climbing is only permitted at The Towers and is prohibited in other areas of the reserve at this time.

Approach

Access to The Main Face is by the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Climbs are listed left to right. At the left end of this cliff are five short corners; they are, Running Crack, Solo Crack, January Crack, Carcinogenic Cloud and Greg's Climb. A great climbing area for a hot afternoon. All climbs used to be marked, but markings have begun to wear and can be very difficult to find. All climbs are marked, but markings have begun to wear and can be very difficult to find.

Upper Terrace On the terrace above the Main Face are two tiers. Go to the top tier for Walking Across the Rooftops, Tinsel Town, and Yerong Trail Directissimo.

Ethic inherited from The Rock

Taken from the NPWS signage located at The Towers:

Rockclimbing and abseiling within The Rock Nature Reserve may only be carried out with the consent of the director-General of the National Parks and Wildlife Service. Consent is given upon compliance with the Code of Conduct and completion of the Register book located at the base of The Towers.

Code of Coduct *Rock activities are only permitted on the NE rock face known as The Towers

*Parties are to be no larger than 4 people for rock climbing and 8 for abseiling.

*No new climbs are to be established outside of the designated rock activities area.

*Do not mark the location of climbs.

*Do not attach permanent anchor points to rocks, USE REMOVABLE GEAR only.

*Do not chip or glue route, brush or "garden" the rock face and avoid excessive use of chalk.

*Where possible descend via the cliff face to minimise erosion.

*Tread Lightly, keep to rocks, hard ground and established tracks.

*All flora and fauna are protected in The Rock Nature Reserve and must not be picked, harmed or disturbed in any way. Take especial care not to harm the Threatened plant Woolly Ragwort (Senecio gariandii).

Routes

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Grade Route

First corner-crack on L. side of cliff.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976

'There are routes and there are routes - but this is not one of them. It will surely land on the packs in years to come'. Loose. Start about 2m R. of RC. Move up L. and scale loose rock to perch yourself on person-sized, loose flake. Continue up even looser line above.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Iain Sedgman & Andrew Webb, 1984

Corner R. of Running Crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976

Corner R. of Solo Crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976

Start in crack system just R. of arête between January Crack and Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack until arête can be gained.

FA: Derek Rempe & Robert Cowan, 1996

Corner R. of January Crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976

Start marked. Corner R. of Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack and wall above.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976

3m R. of Greg's Climb is ledge 3m off ground. Boulder to ledge and climb corner to roof. Step R. to gain beautiful finger crack. Wall.

FA: Robert Cowan & Derek Rempe, 1996

A classic climb and the first done at The Rock. Start marked.

  1. Scramble to corner crack which give access to R. sloping ramp. Climb ramp which runs to large ledge. Belay on ledge.

  2. Traverse L. along ledge and round buttresses to reach exposed eagles-nest-like stance where ledge terminates.

  3. From stance climb crack, then veer slightly R. to escape wall and face (crux).

Exposure is grade 15 on its own.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Shane Burkett, 1971

1 15
2

The Rock's original 'big wall' climb. Start marked.

  1. Cracks to ledge

  2. Aid thin crack which arches L. to join main crack/chimney line.

  3. Chimney-crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974

Start marked. Line of least resistance up mossy slab on R. side of face.

FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Main Face.