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Table of contents

1. The Sanctuary 19 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.443909, -34.441897


A collection of cliffs from 10 to 20 metres in height overlooking a picturesque valley. Near Mittangong, details TBA

1.1. Hobo's Hangout 11 routes in Crag

All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

A couple of great routes on good rock make a mornings visit worthwhile.


Collection of routes scattered off the path betwenn Mittagong and the Hume Highway.

Access Issues:

From Lake Alexandra walk 15 minutes down the path to the left. Once in the valley floor look right up the hill and you will spot the cliffs. The large crack at the top of the incline is the centre of Dad's Crag.


20 metres before reaching Dad's Crag, hike uphill for 5 minutes just before the path rises from the valley floor.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** New Years Edge

Up obvious shapely arete to LO's just below picnic ledge, awesome moves throughout 15 metres up hill from Happy Hogmanay Really beautiful moves get on it. Looks like grade 13 from the bottom

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

21 Sport 15m, 7
2 Happy Hogmanay

Start just to the right of the large zawn / cave system. Trend right up the ramp until forced left out on to the arete. Great jugs to the top

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2011

17 Sport 14m, 8
3 Desolation Row

Hard first move and then great pocket pulling to the top. Harder for the short. Start 5 meters down the hill past a small overhung cave.

FA: Matttranter, 2012

22 Sport 9m, 4
4 Tangled up in Blue

Lots of long reaches, just as I like it! Start 2 metres down the hill from Desolation Row.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

21 Sport 9m, 4
5 * Sins of the Father

Good climbing up to a dynamic finishing leap. 1m further left.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

22 Sport 8m, 4
6 * The Crow Road

First route to the left of the knotted rope leading to the upper layer.

FA: Matt T, 2012

18 Sport 9m, 4
7 * 4000

Layback and stem up corner to surmount party ledge. Up superb face to LO. Start by scrambling up onto to ledge from the left to start below stout little corner 80 metres left of Millionaires Jeans Old style layback corner work to one punchy face move crux up high

FA: Simon Vaughan., 2012

21 Sport 18m, 6
8 * The Ghost

Up to party ledge and move right through the gold Start as for ' 4000 ' Finger jugs through some pleasant steepness and perfect rock.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

23 Sport 12m
9 Daddy Day Care

The next to routes are 200M up the valley (right) from the last area.Start in the gully / large boulder. Pull up the layback crack and the go through the ledges. Great finishing hold to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2013

19 Sport 20m
10 ** Curse of the Pikeys

10 metres right of the last climb on the same height as Millionaire. Climb straight up the gold to the juggy roof.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

19 Sport 12m
11 * Millionaire in Jeans

Easily up scoops and trend right towards the arete, to big jugs at finish Start below grey headwall at bolts in the orange scoops

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

17 Sport 12m, 5

1.2. Dad's Crag 8 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

First area developed. Large Hobo cave with short overhung routes on hard Mt Alex rock.

Access Issues:

Directly oppersite the very large boulder in the river. Look up right on the hill side and you will see the crack of "Ä Family Affair."

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lost In Time

Left of Family Affair at left end of mini cave

Set by @svaughan

FFA: @svaughan

FA: @svaughan, 2013

19 Sport 12m
2 ** A Family Affair.

Start dirctly under the large crack and flake.

Pull up on to the first ledge and then follow the crack upwards. Harder finishing moves.

The hanging flake is hollow so belayers stand a little to the side.

Also done on trad gear for those so inclined.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

21 Sport 14m, 5
3 ** The Humourist

Straight up steepness to sting int he tail finish

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

24 Sport 12m
4 * Beautiful Bruce

Up steep white wall Underneath gold steep section Up little niche on perfect grey rock, trend right and up past big pocket. Dont let your guard down up high. For a 10 metre route you are kept busy. Grade is probably 21.5

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

21 Sport 10m, 5
5 Granddads Groove

Up through the scoups to the steep top. Start 6 metres to the right, just past the large cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

16 Sport 9m, 5
6 Not For Old Men

Up through the crumbly bands to the top. Short. Off Balance. A bit weird! 1 metre to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

19 Sport 6m, 4
7 Project Mantel Shelf

Project just to the left of the Crack Project. Short one move wonder but what a move. Fun

20 Sport Project 8m, 2
8 Project - The Crack

The over hung crack on the far right of the buttress. Descent anchors only.

23 Trad Project 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
16 Granddads Groove Sport 9m, 5 1.2. Dad's Crag
17 Happy Hogmanay Sport 14m, 8 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
* Millionaire in Jeans Sport 12m, 5 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
18 * The Crow Road Sport 9m, 4 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
19 ** Curse of the Pikeys Sport 12m 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
Daddy Day Care Sport 20m 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
* Lost In Time Sport 12m 1.2. Dad's Crag
Not For Old Men Sport 6m, 4 1.2. Dad's Crag
20 Project Mantel Shelf Sport Project 8m, 2 1.2. Dad's Crag
21 * 4000 Sport 18m, 6 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
** New Years Edge Sport 15m, 7 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
Tangled up in Blue Sport 9m, 4 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
** A Family Affair. Sport 14m, 5 1.2. Dad's Crag
* Beautiful Bruce Sport 10m, 5 1.2. Dad's Crag
22 Desolation Row Sport 9m, 4 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
* Sins of the Father Sport 8m, 4 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
23 * The Ghost Sport 12m 1.1. Hobo's Hangout
Project - The Crack Trad Project 10m 1.2. Dad's Crag
24 ** The Humourist Sport 12m 1.2. Dad's Crag