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A selection of mainly moderate routes with easy access. Sheltered in the winter.


Collection of routes scattered off the path betwenn Mittagong and the Hume Highway.

Access issues

From Lake Alexandra walk 15 minutes down the path to the left. Once in the valley floor look right up the hill and you will spot the cliffs. The large crack at the top of the incline is the centre of Dad's Crag.


20 metres before reaching Dad's Crag, hike uphill for 5 minutes just before the path rises from the valley floor.


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Grade Route
21 ** New Years Edge Sport 15m, 7

Up obvious shapely arete to LO's just below picnic ledge, awesome moves throughout 15 metres up hill from Happy Hogmanay Really beautiful moves get on it. Looks like grade 13 from the bottom

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

18 * All Hail King Trump Sport 12m, 5

5 metres to the right of New Years Edge. The route goes up directly under the small tree on the ledge at half height. Pull hard of the ground and balance, high step and wobble upwards.

Set by Matt Tranter, 2016

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2016

18 ** Dole Bludgers Sport 12m, 6

Crimpy moves flowing nicely up the faint line of weakness. Start 2metres left of the narrow cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2016

16 * The Eiger Sanction Sport 12m, 6

Start in the cave. Back and foot up the chimney (if you are too young to know what that means then google it youth). Take care after the third bolt as it is run out, stay in the cave where it is nice and safe. Exit left with the grace of a goat or the flop of a whale to the anchor of Dole Bludgers.

Set by Matt Tranter

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2016

FA: 2016


Solo / caving - could be trad protected. Enter the cave Zawn and thruch and dangle up towards the day light. At the mid way point you can either crawl through the tiny slit (if you are a five year old) or carry on up through the precariously perched boulders to the golden eagles nest. Exit with care and scramble back down past the upper level climbs.

Even better in the wet where the rain may lubricate the tubby.

FA: Thomas & Matt Tranter, 2016

17 * Happy Hogmanay Sport 14m, 8

Start just to the right of the large zawn / cave system. Trend right up the ramp until forced left out on to the arete. Great jugs to the top

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2011

22 Desolation Row Sport 9m, 4

Hard first move and then great pocket pulling to the top. Harder for the short. Start 5 meters down the hill past a small overhung cave.

FA: Matttranter, 2012

21 * Tangled up in Blue Sport 9m, 4

Lots of long reaches, just as I like it! Start 2 metres down the hill from Desolation Row.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

22 * Sins of the Father Sport 8m, 4

Good climbing up to a dynamic finishing leap. 1m further left.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

18 ** The Crow Road Sport 9m, 4

First route to the left of the knotted rope leading to the upper layer.

FA: Matt T, 2012


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Upper level Sector


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Grade Route
21 * 4000 Sport 18m, 6

Layback and stem up corner to surmount party ledge. Up superb face to LO. Start by scrambling up onto to ledge from the left to start below stout little corner 80 metres left of Millionaires Jeans Old style layback corner work to one punchy face move crux up high

FA: Simon Vaughan., 2012

23 * The Ghost Sport 12m

Up to party ledge and move right through the gold Start as for ' 4000 ' Finger jugs through some pleasant steepness and perfect rock.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

19 ** Daddy Day Care Sport 20m

The next to routes are 200M up the valley (right) from the last area.Start in the gully / large boulder. Pull up the layback crack and the go through the ledges. Great finishing hold to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2013

19 ** Curse of the Pikeys Sport 12m

10 metres right of the last climb on the same height as Millionaire. Climb straight up the gold to the juggy roof.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

17 * Millionaire in Jeans Sport 12m, 5

Easily up scoops and trend right towards the arete, to big jugs at finish Start below grey headwall at bolts in the orange scoops

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012


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