Routes in The Sanctuary

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Hobo's Hangout
18 The Crow Road

First route to the left of the knotted rope leading to the upper layer.

FA: Matt T, 8 Sep 2012

Sport 9m, 4
22 Sins of the Father

Good climbing up to a dynamic finishing leap. 1m further left.

FA: Matt Tranter, 28 Sep 2012

Sport 8m, 4
21 Tangled up in Blue

Lots of long reaches, just as I like it! Start 2 metres down the hill from Desolation Row.

FA: Matt Tranter, 11 Aug 2012

Sport 9m, 4
22 Desolation Row

Hard first move and then great pocket pulling to the top. Harder for the short. Start 5 meters down the hill past a small overhung cave.

FA: Matttranter, 21 Jul 2012

Sport 9m, 4
17 Happy Hogmanay

Start just to the right of the large zawn / cave system. Trend right up the ramp until forced left out on to the arete. Great jugs to the top

FFA: Matt Tranter, 30 Dec 2011

Sport 14m, 8
10 Going on a Bear Hunt.

Solo / caving - could be trad protected. Enter the cave Zawn and thruch and dangle up towards the day light. At the mid way point you can either crawl through the tiny slit (if you are a five year old) or carry on up through the precariously perched boulders to the golden eagles nest. Exit with care and scramble back down past the upper level climbs.

Even better in the wet where the rain may lubricate the tubby.

FA: Thomas & Matt Tranter, 23 Sep 2016

Trad 15m
16 The Eiger Sanction

Start in the cave. Back and foot up the chimney (if you are too young to know what that means then google it youth). Take care after the third bolt as it is run out, stay in the cave where it is nice and safe. Exit left with the grace of a goat or the flop of a whale to the anchor of Dole Bludgers.

Set by Matt Tranter

FFA: Matt Tranter, 28 Sep 2016

FA: 28 Sep 2016

Sport 12m, 6
18 Dole Bludgers

Crimpy moves flowing nicely up the faint line of weakness. Start 2metres left of the narrow cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 15 Sep 2016

Sport 12m, 6
18 All Hail King Trump

5 metres to the right of New Years Edge. The route goes up directly under the small tree on the ledge at half height. Pull hard of the ground and balance, high step and wobble upwards.

Set by Matt Tranter, 10 Nov 2016

FFA: Matt Tranter, 11 Nov 2016

Sport 12m, 5
21 New Years Edge

Up obvious shapely arete to LO's just below picnic ledge, awesome moves throughout 15 metres up hill from Happy Hogmanay Really beautiful moves get on it. Looks like grade 13 from the bottom

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 30 Dec 2011

Sport 15m, 7
21 4000

Layback and stem up corner to surmount party ledge. Up superb face to LO. Start by scrambling up onto to ledge from the left to start below stout little corner 80 metres left of Millionaires Jeans Old style layback corner work to one punchy face move crux up high

FA: Simon Vaughan., 14 Jan 2012

Sport 18m, 6
23 The Ghost

Up to party ledge and move right through the gold Start as for ' 4000 ' Finger jugs through some pleasant steepness and perfect rock.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 28 Sep 2012

Sport 12m
17 Millionaire in Jeans

Easily up scoops and trend right towards the arete, to big jugs at finish Start below grey headwall at bolts in the orange scoops

FA: Simon Vaughan, 11 Jan 2012

Sport 12m, 5
19 Daddy Day Care

Pull up the layback crack and the go through the ledges. Great finishing hold to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 5 Feb 2013

Sport 20m
19 Curse of the Pikeys

10 metres right of the last climb on the same height as Millionaire. Climb straight up the gold to the juggy roof.

FA: Matt Tranter, Nov 2012

Sport 12m
Dad's Crag
23 Open Project - The Crack

The over hung crack on the far right of the buttress. Descent anchors only.

TradProject 10m
22 So Long Hanvey

Mantle shelf. Short one move wonder but what a move. Fun

FA: 11 Jun 2016

Sport 8m, 2
19 Wasted on the Youth

Start by the large tree. Up pockets to edge of dodgy looking block. Weird mantel to anchors above ledge. About grade 16 if you wuss out and step on the very tempting tree branch.

FFA: Matthew Tranter

FA: Matthew Tranter, 10 May 2016

Sport 10m, 3
17 Luck of the Irish

The next four routes start 10 metres to the right of the previous route. Bouldery start to good pockets. Anchors set back above the ledge.

FA: Matthew Tranter, 24 May 2016

Sport 12m, 4
19 Not For Old Men

Up through the crumbly bands to the top. Short. Off Balance. A bit weird! 1 metre to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 18 Nov 2012

Sport 6m, 4
16 Granddads Groove

Up through the scoups to the steep top. Start 6 metres to the right, just past the large cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 14 Jan 2012

Sport 9m, 5
21 Beautiful Bruce

Up steep white wall Underneath gold steep section Up little niche on perfect grey rock, trend right and up past big pocket. Dont let your guard down up high. For a 10 metre route you are kept busy. Grade is probably 21.5

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 12 Nov 2011

FA: Simon Vaughan, 12 Nov 2011

Sport 10m, 5
24 The Humourist

Straight up steepness to sting in the tail finish.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Aug 2011

FFA: Simon Vaughan, Aug 2013

Sport 12m
Project MT

Short steep blunt arĂȘte.

SportProject 6
21 A Family Affair.

Start dirctly under the large crack and flake.

Pull up on to the first ledge and then follow the crack upwards. Harder finishing moves.

The hanging flake is hollow so belayers stand a little to the side.

Also done on trad gear for those so inclined.

FA: Matt Tranter, 30 Oct 2011

Sport 14m, 5
19 Lost In Time

Left of Family Affair at left end of mini cave

Sport 12m

Showing all 26 routes.