A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adrian Xavier Dan Roe Jake Forker Dan OS Mark Gamble Alexander Xavier Brendan Heywood Pat Jos Dave Westby
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
The Steamers
27 in Crag
-
1.1.
The Prow 18 in Area
- 1.1.1. Adventureland 8 in Area
-
1.1.2.
Forecastle 10 in Crag
- 1.1.2.1. Barnacles 6 in Sector
- 1.1.2.2. Starboard Hull 3 in Sector
- 1.1.2.3. Gunwale 1 in Sector
- 1.2. The Funnel 5 in Area
- 1.3. The Mast 3 in Area
- 1.4. The Pinnacle 1 in Area
- 1.5. The Stern 0 in Area
-
1.1.
The Prow 18 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Steamers 27 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.204712, 152.429256
description
The Steamers is a series of rocky outcrops located in Main Range National Park in South East Queensland. The Main Range is a rugged mountainous area with steep dropoffs and spectacular views. The lack of traffic over the years is justifiable as the rock is falling apart, with loose rocks the size of small cars just hanging around.
access issues
Located in Main Range National Park.
approach
Main Range National Park is accessible by car from the Cunningham Highway. If you have a 2WD you'll have to park further down the road before the first creek crossing and walk the extra 5km or so in.
where to stay
There are many remote bush campsites located within the park, including one on top of The Stern.
1.1. The Prow 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.209287, 152.416365
1.1.1. Adventureland 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -28.208472, 152.411568
description
Adventure climbing.
approach
On the North Western side of 'The Prow'. Along the very Western edge of the 'North Face'.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Magical Leopluridon
Some tricky placements and runouts, leader should be solid at the grade. Bridge up chimney to stance below small rooflet. Charge up crack to the left on fun pockets with reasonable gear. A short but unprotected traverse gains the TB above OAB. FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008 | 16 | 22m | |||
2 |
Magical Leopluridon VF
As for ML, but instead of traversing to tree continue straight up on imaginary gear to poor trad belay at base of large overhang. Either downclimb left to TB or sacrifice gear and rap. Not recommended. FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008 | 16 R | 10m | |||
3 |
★★ On a Bridge
Approach ridge meets the cliff here. Stylish bridging up chimney with great pockets and solid gear. When chimney ends step right onto face with no pro but easily up to TB. Great fun! FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008 | 11 | 20m | |||
4 |
Were On An Adventure Charlie P1
Up easy chimney until it narrows at half height. Either thrutch directly up chimney or step out and bridge up to large tree. No gear for the last 9m. TB FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008 | 12 | 20m | |||
5 |
Were On An Adventure Charlie P2
Only the very sick and twisted would repeat this pitch. Ramble up mank to the base of overhanging corner. Tricky bridging, exposure and suspect gear on loose and rotten rock gets the heart racing. Bowel-quiverring moves through the crux gains an extremely loose and dirty ledge. Very carefully up dirt and loose rocks to large TB. Scary stuff!! FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008 | 18 X | 25m, 2 | |||
6 |
The Meadows on Fire / Dans 'The Meadows on Fire' project
Right side of shattered arete. Start: About 50m left of WOAAC. Right side of shattered arete. | 16m | ||||
7 |
No More Microwaves Please / Dans 'No More Microwaves Please' project
Named after a failed and dramatic onsight attempt. Start: About 50m left of WOAAC. Left side of shattered arete. | 16m | ||||
8 |
We're On A Bridge
Stylish bridging up lift shaft with great pockets and solid gear. Head right at the top and run it out a little over easy terrain to tree belay. Great fun! Start: Where the approach ridge meets the cliff. FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008 | 11 | 20m |
1.1.2. Forecastle 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -28.206853, 152.416186
summary
Northern facing cliffs of The Prow
description
Part of The Steamers, the Prow features a number of areas. All routes are Trad routes.
access issues
Access is via the Old Mill Road that enters into the National Park from the west of the valley. There are a number of creek crossings so a 4WD would be your best form of transportation unless you want to walk in from Emu Creek Road.
approach
Once you get to Old Mill Road, open the gate and follow the road up the valley until you get to a fork in the road. (There are bee hives in the fork). Take the right fork and park up near the locked ranger access gate. You now have a 1km hike up steep terrain to the face.
where to stay
Camping options are available by contacting Parks. If you are going to stay a few days, there is a Hotel/Motel at Yangan (Hot shower and beer!) that's worth a visit.
1.1.2.1. Barnacles 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.206201, 152.415385
description
The very northern tip of the Prow at the western end of the Forecastle
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Acorn Barnacle
Up the arete and traverse across to the large corner to rap off large spike or large tree Set: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FFA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 14 | 12m | |||||
2 |
Goose Barnacle
Dirty and loose Set: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FFA: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier & Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 14 | 15m | |||||
3 |
Watch for loose barnacles
Lots of loose rock in this crack, then fight with the brush for the rest of the way Set: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FFA: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier & Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 15 | 25m | |||||
4 |
Cyprid
The line between Nauplius and WFLB, straight up to TB above the overhang Set: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FFA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 19 | 12m | |||||
5 |
Nauplius
Follow the obvious crack around the left of the overhang and up to TB Set: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FFA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 13 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Bilge Pipe
Just the quickest and easiest way to get to a nice spot above the Barnacles. FFA: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier & Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 6 | 12m |
1.1.2.2. Starboard Hull 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.206752, 152.416313
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Sailor
Set: Adrian Xavier | 16 | 85m | |||||
2 |
★ Little Sailor
Start at the smaller crack left of Sailor. Up to the small ledge and rap off tree. Set: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 FFA: Alexander Xavier & Christine Larsen, 27 Jan 2019 FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019 | 11 | 15m | |||||
3 |
Topside Pt1
An easy up to the Gunwale or rap back down off trees at 30m FFA: Adrian Xavier, 26 Jan 2019 FA: Adrian Xavier & Alexander Xavier, 26 Jan 2019 | 12 | 30m |
1.1.2.3. Gunwale 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.207108, 152.416439
description
This is the upper wall that you can see above the main wall from the eastern end of Forecastle
approach
Climb Topside Pt1 to get to the Gunwale
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Topside Pt2
Scramble directly up to the face after climbing Topside Pt1 and attack the large crack FFA: Adrian Xavier & Alexander Xavier, 26 Jan 2019 FA: Adrian Xavier & Alexander Xavier, 26 Jan 2019 | 14 | 30m |
1.2. The Funnel 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -28.204763, 152.429432
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hanging Gardens
Start: From the Western end, walk about 60ft along the South face. Start on the right side of the patch of broken rock.
FA: John Tillack & N. Eberhardt | 9 | 99m, 3 | |||
2 |
The Flake Route
FA: Robert Waring & Kemp Fowler, 1950 | 10 | 55m | |||
3 |
Reptile
FA: Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb & Donn Groom, 1956 | 10 | 68m, 4 | |||
4 |
Reptile's Tail
FA: Donn Groom & Bob Fick, 1966 | 10 | 37m, 2 | |||
5 |
Flake Route
Start: About 100 yards from the Eastern end of the funnel on the North face. Foot of a large yellow-brown flake below similarly colored overhang.
FA: Bob Waring & Kemp Fowler, 1950 | 14 R | 58m, 3 |
1.3. The Mast 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.201036, 152.435101
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Jericho
Named so because it would all collapse on a single trumpet note. Start: Climb the Pinnacle and walk to the Western end of the summit ridge. Rap a short distance until you can swing the void to the Mast and clamber onto it.
FA: Ted Cais & Les Hicks, 1966 | 7 R | 80m, 3 | |||
2 |
Standard Route
Start: From the Western end about 30 meters along the Southern face is a chimney/gully.
FA: Bob Waring & Jon Stephenson, 1950 | 9 | 110m, 4 | |||
3 |
North Face
FA: J. Comino & R. Waring, 1952 | 11 | 57m, 2 |
1.4. The Pinnacle 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -28.200578, 152.437053
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
North Face
FA: J. Comino & R.Waring | 10 R | 56m, 2 |