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Routes in The Steamers

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Showing all 27 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Prow Adventureland
16 Magical Leopluridon

Some tricky placements and runouts, leader should be solid at the grade. Bridge up chimney to stance below small rooflet. Charge up crack to the left on fun pockets with reasonable gear. A short but unprotected traverse gains the TB above OAB.

FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008

Trad 22m
16 R Magical Leopluridon VF

As for ML, but instead of traversing to tree continue straight up on imaginary gear to poor trad belay at base of large overhang. Either downclimb left to TB or sacrifice gear and rap. Not recommended.

FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008

Trad 10m
11 On a Bridge

Approach ridge meets the cliff here. Stylish bridging up chimney with great pockets and solid gear. When chimney ends step right onto face with no pro but easily up to TB. Great fun!

FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008

Trad 20m
12 Were On An Adventure Charlie P1

Up easy chimney until it narrows at half height. Either thrutch directly up chimney or step out and bridge up to large tree. No gear for the last 9m. TB

FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008

Trad 20m
18 X Were On An Adventure Charlie P2

Only the very sick and twisted would repeat this pitch. Ramble up mank to the base of overhanging corner. Tricky bridging, exposure and suspect gear on loose and rotten rock gets the heart racing. Bowel-quiverring moves through the crux gains an extremely loose and dirty ledge. Very carefully up dirt and loose rocks to large TB. Scary stuff!!

FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008

Trad 25m, 2
The Meadows on Fire

Right side of shattered arete.

Start: About 50m left of WOAAC. Right side of shattered arete.

TradProject 16m
No More Microwaves Please

Named after a failed and dramatic onsight attempt.

Start: About 50m left of WOAAC. Left side of shattered arete.

TradProject 16m
11 We're On A Bridge

Stylish bridging up lift shaft with great pockets and solid gear. Head right at the top and run it out a little over easy terrain to tree belay. Great fun!

Start: Where the approach ridge meets the cliff.

FA: Dan Lukis & Dan Roe, 2008

Trad 20m
The Prow Forecastle Barnacles
14 Acorn Barnacle

Up the arete and traverse across to the large corner to rap off large spike or large tree

Set: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FFA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 12m
14 Goose Barnacle

Dirty and loose

Set: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FFA: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier & Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 15m
15 Watch for loose barnacles

Lots of loose rock in this crack, then fight with the brush for the rest of the way

Set: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FFA: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier & Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 25m
19 Cyprid

The line between Nauplius and WFLB, straight up to TB above the overhang

Set: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FFA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 12m
13 Nauplius

Follow the obvious crack around the left of the overhang and up to TB

Set: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FFA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 12m
6 Bilge Pipe

Just the quickest and easiest way to get to a nice spot above the Barnacles.

FFA: Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier & Adrian Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 12m
The Prow Forecastle Starboard Hull
16 Sailor TradProject 85m
11 Little Sailor

Start at the smaller crack left of Sailor. Up to the small ledge and rap off tree.

Set: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

FFA: Alexander Xavier & Christine Larsen, 27 Jan 2019

FA: Alexander Xavier, 27 Jan 2019

Trad 15m
12 Topside Pt1

An easy up to the Gunwale or rap back down off trees at 30m

FFA: Adrian Xavier, 26 Jan 2019

FA: Adrian Xavier & Alexander Xavier, 26 Jan 2019

Trad 30m
The Prow Forecastle Gunwale
14 Topside Pt2

Scramble directly up to the face after climbing Topside Pt1 and attack the large crack

FFA: Adrian Xavier & Alexander Xavier, 26 Jan 2019

FA: Adrian Xavier & Alexander Xavier, 26 Jan 2019

Trad 30m
The Funnel
9 Hanging Gardens

Start: From the Western end, walk about 60ft along the South face. Start on the right side of the patch of broken rock.

  1. 34m (12)

  2. 30m (14)

  3. 37m (10)

FA: John Tillack & N. Eberhardt

Trad 99m, 3
10 The Flake Route

FA: Robert Waring & Kemp Fowler, 1950

Unknown 55m
10 Reptile
  1. 23m (14)

  2. 17m (12)

  3. 11m (12)

  4. 18m (11)

FA: Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb & Donn Groom, 1956

Trad 68m, 4
10 Reptile's Tail
  1. 16m (14)

  2. 22m (14)

FA: Donn Groom & Bob Fick, 1966

Trad 37m, 2
14 R Flake Route

Start: About 100 yards from the Eastern end of the funnel on the North face. Foot of a large yellow-brown flake below similarly colored overhang.

  1. 14m (8)

  2. 10m (10)

  3. 34m (14)

FA: Bob Waring & Kemp Fowler, 1950

Trad 58m, 3
The Mast
7 R Jericho

Named so because it would all collapse on a single trumpet note.

Start: Climb the Pinnacle and walk to the Western end of the summit ridge. Rap a short distance until you can swing the void to the Mast and clamber onto it.

  1. 24m (10) Scrub bash away.

  2. 34m (12) Keep an eye out for unstable rocks.

  3. 25m (11)

FA: Ted Cais & Les Hicks, 1966

Trad 80m, 3
9 Standard Route

Start: From the Western end about 30 meters along the Southern face is a chimney/gully.

  1. 34m (10)

  2. 12m (12)

  3. 25m (13)

  4. 38m (13)

FA: Bob Waring & Jon Stephenson, 1950

Trad 110m, 4
11 North Face
  1. 32m (11)

  2. 25m (11)

FA: J. Comino & R. Waring, 1952

Trad 57m, 2
The Pinnacle
10 R North Face
  1. 32m (11)

  2. 25m (11)

FA: J. Comino & R.Waring

Trad 56m, 2

Showing all 27 routes.

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