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Table of contents

1. The Stockyards Car-Park Area 59 routes in Area

Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.425423, -37.922944

Access Issues: inherited from The You Yangs

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

1.1. Philistine Block 5 routes in Area

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Philistine 11Unknown 20m
2 Where Are You Now, Phil Stine? 19Unknown 18m
3 * Action Attraction 17Unknown 15m
4 * Hypocrite 17Unknown 13m
5 King Kanaka (and the Cane Cutters) 21Unknown 10m

1.2. Draw-String Block 3 routes in Area

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 G-String 18Unknown 9m
2 Draw-string 8Unknown 10m
3 * Misplaced Missionary Zeal 20Unknown 8m

1.3. Split Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Granite egg with an offwidth crack splitting it in half.


Just over the fence opposite the bike track on the way to North Western Outcrop.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Descent Crack

Easy crack on back of boulder.

2 Split Slab

Slab right of descent crack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Body Eater

The feature offwidth splitting front of boulder.

4 ** Pocket Solution

Tall face right of the offwidth crack via a nice pocket towards the top.


1.4. WD40 Boulder 2 routes in Cliff

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.426533, -37.924207


Single boulder 100m before North Western Outcrop

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 WD 40 25Unknown 8m
2 * Like a Man Possessed 22Unknown 10m

1.5. North-Western Outcrop 18 routes in Cliff

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.425364, -37.923966


Features some of the best cracks and face climbs in the You Yangs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * No Pedestrians 18Unknown 10m
2 Giaour 6Unknown 12m
3 Phlebotomy 17Unknown 16m
4 ** Squish Band 21Unknown 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Pain and Frequency

FA: Mike Law

28Unknown 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Pit Simitri

Originally 24, it probably still is. A great pitch all the way, despite the 2 chipped holds. If they bother you, it should be possible to eliminate them.

Start: Start 2m L of Grimulace.

26Sport 16m, 5
7 *** Grimulace 20Trad 15m
8 Santa's Last Entry

FA: Steve Monks, 1987

20Unknown 15m
9 It Came From Outer Melbourne 24Unknown 15m
10 Virgo 9Unknown 14m
11 ** Meet my Friend Pain

Open project. Face right of Virgo with 5 FH's. Classic crimping which gets harder the higher you go. Very hard boulder problem getting to last bolt, then another tough sequence to pull onto slab.

28Sport Project 15m, 5
12 * Talmud 18Unknown 15m
13 Coming Apart at the Seams 26Unknown 18m
14 Baby-faced Assassin 24Unknown 23m
15 Tozanton 16Unknown 13m
16 Donjon 16Unknown 12m
17 Double Plus Crud 13Unknown 15m
18 Grunt 14Unknown 13m

1.6. Exam Technique Face 7 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 144.424998, -37.923367


The long steep face with diagonal dyke at its right hand end. All climbs have DBB's, take brackets.


About 30m north of the end of North Western Outcrop.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wax and Wane

Up thin crack at left end of face, step right and up slab past 3 bolts.

20Mixed 15m, 3
2 * Yards of Pork 23Sport 14m, 5
3 * Miss Buns

Start 2m right of Yards of Pork

FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2012

23Sport 14m, 5
4 ** The Eiger Sanction

The line with 5 FH's starting 1m left of tree. Steep and pumpy.

FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2014

24Sport 15m, 5
5 ** Frozen Daiquiri

Climb Exam Technique to first ring bolt. Mantle left into dish, then up through bulge to top passing 3 fixed hangers.

FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2011

24Sport 14m, 4
6 ** Exam Technique 22Sport 13m
7 * Exam Technique Direct Start 21Sport 12m

1.7. The 1984 Block 12 routes in Cliff

Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 144.424513, -37.922580


The large block about 70m north west of Exam Technique Face. There are some recently bolted climbs here but be warned, they are quite sharp crimps even by Youies standards.


Try to follow the path trampled through the boneseed. Walk to North Western Outcrop and across to Exam Technique. From the end of Exam Techique drop down hill 10m and follow path through bonseed to back of 1984 block.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vallum 10Unknown 12m
2 The Omitted 16Unknown 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Thought Crime

Seam with one bolt at left end of main face.

FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2013

21Mixed 9m, 1
4 * Doublethink

FFA: Dave, 2012

22Sport 10m, 3
5 * Big Brother

FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2012

24Sport 11m, 4
6 ** 1984 18Unknown 16m
7 ** Ministry of Truth

The best route here. After the break go straight up, then veer right to the big mushroom jug.

FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2013

23Mixed 14m, 2
8 Letting the Days Go By 13Unknown 18m
9 Diary of an Infidel 19Unknown 12m, 1
10 Hit Squad

This appears to be a repeat of Diary of an Infidel.

19Unknown 8m
11 Antigravity 14Unknown 8m
12 Acquisition 7Unknown 20m

1.8. Taxidermy Block 4 routes in Cliff

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.425288, -37.921873


Big block with some vertical crack lines


About 70m north east of 1984 block

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Deviation Doddle 5Unknown 20m
2 Taxidermy 20Unknown 14m
3 Hunters and Collectors 19Unknown 12m
4 Deviation Plummet Direct 17Unknown 12m

1.9. The Far End 4 routes in Cliff

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.425154, -37.921661


The collection of block 20m north of Taxidermy Block

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hidden Agenda 18Unknown 13m
2 The Qualm Before the Storm 21Unknown 12m
3 Fritz 13Unknown 8m
4 Medieval Games 13Unknown 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Deviation Doddle Unknown 20m 1.8. Taxidermy Block
6 Giaour Unknown 12m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
7 Acquisition Unknown 20m 1.7. The 1984 Block
8 Draw-string Unknown 10m 1.2. Draw-String Block
9 Virgo Unknown 14m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
10 Vallum Unknown 12m 1.7. The 1984 Block
11 The Philistine Unknown 20m 1.1. Philistine Block
13 Double Plus Crud Unknown 15m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
Letting the Days Go By Unknown 18m 1.7. The 1984 Block
Fritz Unknown 8m 1.9. The Far End
Medieval Games Unknown 10m 1.9. The Far End
V0- Descent Crack Boulder 1.3. Split Boulder
14 Grunt Unknown 13m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
Antigravity Unknown 8m 1.7. The 1984 Block
16 Donjon Unknown 12m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
Tozanton Unknown 13m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
The Omitted Unknown 7m 1.7. The 1984 Block
17 * Action Attraction Unknown 15m 1.1. Philistine Block
* Hypocrite Unknown 13m 1.1. Philistine Block
Phlebotomy Unknown 16m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
Deviation Plummet Direct Unknown 12m 1.8. Taxidermy Block
18 G-String Unknown 9m 1.2. Draw-String Block
* No Pedestrians Unknown 10m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
* Talmud Unknown 15m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
** 1984 Unknown 16m 1.7. The 1984 Block
Hidden Agenda Unknown 13m 1.9. The Far End
19 Where Are You Now, Phil Stine? Unknown 18m 1.1. Philistine Block
Diary of an Infidel Unknown 12m, 1 1.7. The 1984 Block
Hit Squad Unknown 8m 1.7. The 1984 Block
Hunters and Collectors Unknown 12m 1.8. Taxidermy Block
V1 * Body Eater Boulder 1.3. Split Boulder
20 * Misplaced Missionary Zeal Unknown 8m 1.2. Draw-String Block
*** Grimulace Trad 15m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
Santa's Last Entry Unknown 15m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
Wax and Wane Mixed 15m, 3 1.6. Exam Technique Face
Taxidermy Unknown 14m 1.8. Taxidermy Block
V2 Split Slab Boulder 1.3. Split Boulder
21 King Kanaka (and the Cane Cutters) Unknown 10m 1.1. Philistine Block
** Squish Band Unknown 22m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
* Exam Technique Direct Start Sport 12m 1.6. Exam Technique Face
* Thought Crime Mixed 9m, 1 1.7. The 1984 Block
The Qualm Before the Storm Unknown 12m 1.9. The Far End
22 * Like a Man Possessed Unknown 10m 1.4. WD40 Boulder
** Exam Technique Sport 13m 1.6. Exam Technique Face
* Doublethink Sport 10m, 3 1.7. The 1984 Block
23 * Miss Buns Sport 14m, 5 1.6. Exam Technique Face
* Yards of Pork Sport 14m, 5 1.6. Exam Technique Face
** Ministry of Truth Mixed 14m, 2 1.7. The 1984 Block
V4 ** Pocket Solution Boulder 1.3. Split Boulder
24 Baby-faced Assassin Unknown 23m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
It Came From Outer Melbourne Unknown 15m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
** Frozen Daiquiri Sport 14m, 4 1.6. Exam Technique Face
** The Eiger Sanction Sport 15m, 5 1.6. Exam Technique Face
* Big Brother Sport 11m, 4 1.7. The 1984 Block
25 WD 40 Unknown 8m 1.4. WD40 Boulder
26 Coming Apart at the Seams Unknown 18m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
*** Pit Simitri Sport 16m, 5 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
28 ** Meet my Friend Pain Sport Project 15m, 5 1.5. North-Western Outcrop
* Pain and Frequency Unknown 18m 1.5. North-Western Outcrop