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Description

Urinal Wall is a popular little slab that is easily accessible. It offers a handful of short low to mid grade slab routes on good rock. The slab is sprinkled with a few bolts (mostly carrot bolts) with two twin bolt belays at the top of the slab.

Access issues inherited from The You Yangs

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts 5m right of 'Short Vertical Crack'. Up and over the left-leading break and up the right side of a faint water-streak. No Protection.

FA: Russel Crow, 1985

The short vertical crack

FA: Russell Crow, 1985

  1. Starts as for "Short Vertical Crack" (or variant up "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"-Which is safer!) and then traverses left to the first bolt of "Pissing on a Friend". Complete first pitch as for "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"

  2. Starts off ledge at "Dunny Door". Climbs diagonally left and up to a placement in the flake on "The Overflow" and then on "Lizard's Lair". Continue to bolts on "Busting for Relief" and "Harpic". More placements and then to the bolt of "Twyford Adamant". Finish up "Reversing Santa". Flake, Trad Belay.

Set by Grant Baxter & Luke Baxter

Safer! Starts up "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse". See "Urinal Wall Mega Traverse" for details on the rest of the route.

Set by Grant Baxter

Starts right of the black streak of 'Pissing on a Friend'. Climb to first BR and then move left to second BR. Climb diagonally left to second BR of 'Round the Bend'. Then continue traversing left past a BR, FH, and BR. Finishes on the ledge below 'Dunny Door'.

FA: Grant Baxter, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

Set by Grant Baxter, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

This climb has been downgraded from 18 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

This route is protected by 1 carrot, followed by a cam placement under the flake above the bolt, and then another carrot.

FA: Andrew Lindblade & Rob Lindblade, 1987

This climb has been downgraded from 19 to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Midway tween Pissing on a Friend and Around the Bend. Up past BR to cams in centre of the overlap flake.

FA: Russel Crow, Hugh Hardwick & Dak Karla, 1995

This climb has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Steep climbing on small edges. Starts below the left end of the overlap flake of 'Aiming to Please' (which caps the upper middle of the main face). Straight up bast 2 BRs.

FA: Hugh Hardwick, Robin Linn & Russel Crow, 1985

Steep on small edges. Starts up back streak (3m left of Round the Bend) to sloping bulge (BR). Follow slightly left-leading line on good holds to second BR then up easy slab.

FA: Hugh Hardwick & Robin Linn, 1985

This climb has been downgraded from 18 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Sustained climbing on good edges. The water-streak right of 'Washing the Defectives', past BR at half height and a FH right of the steepening.

FA: Robin Linn & Hugh Hardwick, 1985

This climb has been downgraded from 17to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

The slab immediately right of the bulbous slabby nose. A thin start then trends slightly left (BR). Straight up past a second BR.

FA: Barry Russel & Hugh Hardwick, 1986

Starts off slabby 'ledge' below 'Dunny Door'. Climbs to the right off the ledge, to the second BR of 'Washing the Defectives'. This leads right to FH of 'The Royal Flush', the second BR of 'Aiming to Please', and the second BR of 'Round the Bend'. Then Trad placements in the flakes across 'After the Deluge' to a cam placement and the second bolt of 'Pissing on a Friend'. Then follow the slab up the headwall.

Climbs the nose of the buttress on good incuts but with NO PROTECTION.

FA: Mark Synnot, 1986

Clean water-streak 1m left of 'Dunny Door', once again, with NO PROTECTION.

FA: Robin Linn & Hugh Hardwick, 1985

An exfoliation flake dribbes across the rounded nose of the buttress (3m left of 'When the Need Arises'). Climb the clean wall to flake and up to the top.

FA: Hugh Hardwick, 1995

Linkup between 'Lizard's Lair' and 'The Overflow'.

Starts as for 'Lizard's Lair'. When the edge below dark water marks are reached, traverse right. Follow edge right and up to flake and into 'The Overflow'. Finish as for 'The Overflow'.

FA: Luke Baxter, Grant Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

So named because a dead lizard was found in the crack.

Climbs in between 'The Overflow' and 'Busting for Relief'. Easy holds to flake, then you can place protection in the crack.

Set by Stephen Baxter, 30 Dec 2014

FFA: Grant Baxter, 30 Dec 2014

FA: Stephen Baxter, 30 Dec 2014

Climbs in between 'Lizard's Lair' and 'Busting for Relief'. Be sure not to cross the brown streak to the left and don't use to flake to the right. Thin climbing.

FA: Grant Baxter, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

This climb has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

The climb has a few thin moves and is protected by one high bolt; however small cam placements are available on the left or right flakes above the bolt.

FA: Hugh Hardwick, Russel Crow & Robin Linn, 1985

Climbs between 'Busting for Relief' and 'Harpic'. Directly up thin face in brown streak below flake. When the flake is reached, climb directly over the top of it.

FA: Matt Skinner., Sep 2013

The only bolt on the route is located a fair way off the ground; however its easy ground if your solid at the grade.

FA: Ken Wheat, Simon Barret & Craig Ryan, 1987

This climb has been graded at 5 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Straight up the featured slab 2m left of 'Harpic' (the easy slab right of 'Twyford Adamant') passing a large creaking flake high up on the left. Poor Protection

FA: Russel Crow, 1985

Starts at spiky bush. Climbs up for a few metres and then starts tending right

FA: Grant Baxter, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

Starts on the extreme left of the face (3m right of the gully), 5m left of 'Better to Burn Out Than to Bust' from small blocks. Up the faint vertical seams past on BR. Flake belay up left.

FA: Ken Wheat & Ken James, 1991

Gully chimney at the very left of the cliff line. The higher you get the smaller the chimney becomes until you have to revert to face climbing. Flake belay at top.

FA: Grant Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

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