A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Royalty Walls 25 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.422000, -37.940518

Description:

Royalty Walls is an easily accessible crag with 15 short easy to mid grade trad and sport climbs.

Access: Take Great Circle Drive, head to the norther end of the park and stop at Emergency Marker YYR203. Take the obvious path and walk for a few moments to the middle of the crag.

Access Issues: inherited from The You Yangs

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Royal Pretender 15 Unknown 8m
2 Joker

FA: jamie armitage

18 Unknown 7m
3 Ayatollah Magoo

Around the corner and up the hill from Jack Of Hearts is a gully. This is the steep crackline on the right-hand end of the wall on the right side of the gully when facing uphill, about 1m left of Queensryche.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, 1986

16 Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Queensryche

The arete 1m right of Ayatollah Magoo.

FA: Martin Lama,Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1990

16 Trad 10m
5 Queen of Diamonds 10 Trad 12m
6 QueensTower

Set by @grantb0723, 2015

14 Trad
7 ** The Watchtower

Follow crack system diagonally left until small roof is reached / 'Queen of Diamonds' is intercepted. Then right again and finish up 'Jack of Hearts'.

FA: @lukeb0723,@grantb0723,Stephen Baxter, 2015

13 Trad 14m
8 Jack of Hearts

The thin seam up the middle of the wall to the horizontal break, then up to a ledge and easily over the blocks at the top. Brass micro-nuts recommended.

13 Trad 12m
9 Corner R of Jack of Hearts / Corner crack

Unlikely to be a FA, but hey, I'll claim it until someone else does.

This climb has been upgraded from 8 to 9 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

FA: .

8 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Regicide

Ridiculously run out to the first bolt. If your sane, you can protect the lower moves by placing trad protection in the crack of Royal Auto.

20 Mixed 10m, 1
11 Royal Auto

FA: Russ Crow, 1985

17 Trad 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Royalty Wall Traverse

Starts up "The Lazy Yak" until it joins "Lara". Out across wall past 2 BR's into "Megs's Misfortune". #2 BD Cam here then across wall past another 2 BR's then up to anchor. Large wires and BD cams to #2, or equivalent.

FA: @lukeb0723,@grantb0723, 14th Mar

17 Mixed 20m, 4
13 The Lazy Yak

Start around right of "Tree In A Crack" on horizontal crack below "Royal Auto". From here; directly up until joins with "Lara".

FA: @grantb0723,Stephen Baxter,@lukeb0723, 12th Mar

5 Trad 12m
14 Tree in a Crack

The thin crack just R of the nose leads past a tiny tree and moves right into Laras Knockers

14 Trad 15m
15 L.T.

Climbs face between 'Tree in a Crack' and 'Lara'

FA: @grantb0723, 2015

10 Trad 15m
16 Lara's Knockers / Lara

The left of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

8 Trad 15m
17 Dead Queen in the Middle of the Road

Starts just right of Laras Knockers, with easy climbing to the first (disconcertingly high) bolt, then becoming harder towards the top, with a committing finish. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

16 Sport 15m, 2
18 Live and Let Di 16 Sport 14m, 2
19 Megs's Misfortune

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

FA: 2009

8 Trad 14m
20 MM/B Linkup

Starts up 'Megs's Misfortune' until just before first bolt of 'Buckingham'. Tend diagonally up and join 'Buckingham' for second bolt and rest of climb. Take cams to protect crack and slings to extend.

Set by @grantb0723

FA: @grantb0723

14 to 15 Mixed Project 16m, 2
21 Buckingham

This climb has been downgraded from 17 to 15 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

17 Sport 15m, 2
22 * Lord Louis Mountsplatten

Tricky start (crux) to carrot bolt. The easier moves to the top.

18 Sport 13m, 2
23 Koo Woz Ere

The last climb on the far right side of the crag. Delicate start to bolt, then though easy ground.

16 Sport 12m, 2
24 The Royal Wave

FA: @grantb0723, 2015

19 Trad 8m
25 Indiana Valley

FA: @grantb0723, 2015

5 Trad 5m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
5 Indiana Valley Trad 5m
The Lazy Yak Trad 12m
8 Corner R of Jack of Hearts Trad 12m
Lara's Knockers Trad 15m
Megs's Misfortune Trad 14m
10 L.T. Trad 15m
Queen of Diamonds Trad 12m
13 Jack of Hearts Trad 12m
** The Watchtower Trad 14m
14 QueensTower Trad
Tree in a Crack Trad 15m
14 to 15 MM/B Linkup Mixed Project 16m, 2
15 Royal Pretender Unknown 8m
16 Ayatollah Magoo Trad 6m
Dead Queen in the Middle of the Road Sport 15m, 2
Koo Woz Ere Sport 12m, 2
Live and Let Di Sport 14m, 2
Queensryche Trad 10m
17 Buckingham Sport 15m, 2
Royal Auto Trad 10m
Royalty Wall Traverse Mixed 20m, 4
18 Joker Unknown 7m
* Lord Louis Mountsplatten Sport 13m, 2
19 The Royal Wave Trad 8m
20 Regicide Mixed 10m, 1