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Features some of the best cracks and face climbs in the You Yangs.

Access issues inherited from The You Yangs

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
18 No Pedestrians Unknown 10m
6 Giaour Unknown 12m
18 Phlebotomy Trad 16m

Up offwidth until it goes skinny and cruise to the top. The start is the crux. Original ascent says 17, but its more like a hard 18 or easy 19.

21 * Squish Band Unknown 22m
28 * Pain and Frequency Unknown 18m

FA: Mike Law

26 ** Pit Simitri Sport 16m, 5

Originally 24, it probably still is. A great pitch all the way, despite the 2 chipped holds. If they bother you, it should be possible to eliminate them.

Start: Start 2m L of Grimulace.

20 *** Grimulace Trad 15m
20 * Santa's Last Entry Trad 15m

FA: Steve Monks, 1987

9 Virgo Trad 14m
28 ** Meet my Friend Pain Sport Project 15m, 5

Face right of Virgo with 5 FH's. Classic crimping which gets harder the higher you go. Very hard boulder problem getting to last bolt, then another tough sequence to pull onto slab. Edit 2015 - Closed project! After listing this as open and then having numpties mess around with it, just keep off until I send this thing. I've had one guy want to add a bolt to the grade 10 runout to the top so he can work it?, (err how are you going to get past the v8 crux below?) and then watch same person dog his way up a 20?? Another guy thought it was great spot to do a first skyhook ascent???!! Aargh! Red tag is going back on!!

18 * Talmud Trad 15m

The obvious corner crack with a small ledge at half height and flake at the top. Great crack climbing of various sized jams. Gear anchor.

24 Baby-faced Assassin Unknown 23m
16 Tozanton Unknown 13m
16 Donjon Unknown 12m
13 Double Plus Crud Unknown 15m
14 Grunt Unknown 13m


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