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Routes as trad in The You Yangs

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 127 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Turntable Car-park Area Foot Fetish Bloc
17 Lobotomy

3m R of Foot Fetish. Past undercling (cam), clip BR continue up diagonal crack (cam) to Foot Fetish top BR

FA: Ken Wheat & Ken James, 1999

Mixed 11m, 2
16/17 Crack Up

Seam and crack above. Jaming not really required

FA: Ken James & Ken Wheat, 1999

Trad 9m
17 Nervous Twitch

4m R of Crack Up and 1m Left of Oral Fixation. Trad in horizontal then 2 BR.

FA: Ken James & Ken Wheat, 1999

Mixed 9m, 2
15 Oral Fixation

1m R of Nervous Twitch, 1m L of right arete. Up thin crack.

FA: Ken James & Ken Wheat, 1999

Trad 9m
15 Perverse Traverse

Traverse along undercling break from Anally Retentive to Labotomy. Finish along overlap.

Trad 17m
The Turntable Car-park Area Eastern Walking Track
4 Black-handed

Start under boulders 15m right of Tewkesbury and move up left under them then follow the easiest path up the slab.

Trad 31m
The Turntable Car-park Area The Overlap Area
17 Hide and Seek

Great line in the middle of the overlap, leading to obvious offwidth, which can be tough for the grade if you're new to the technique.

Trad 9m
24 Drugs Over London

Has been re-bolted with 2 FH. 2 carrot bolts on top as anchor and easy walk off to the left.

FA: Mike Law

Mixed 13m, 2
26 Slow Plunge

The slick and rounded crack with a very thin start.

FA: Mikl Law, 1982

Trad 15m
18 Crack Attack
Trad 10m
Rockwell Road South The Look-out
10 Spoon Fed
Trad 11m
13 Asseggai
Mixed 15m, 1
14 Spearhead
Mixed 15m, 1
5 Tugboat Annie
Trad 17m
10 Two Lizards
Trad 23m
8 Jaws in 3D
Trad 14m
Rockwell Road South Rockwell Road Pinnacles
22 The Slot Machine

Pocketed crack.

FFA: Mark Walters & Angela Emerson, 1985

Trad 6m
19 Sole Twister

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

FFA: Mark Walters, 1985

Trad 7m
16 Turd Burglar

Overhanging deep crack/off width through cave from The Slot Machine.

Trad 8m
15 Tyburn Tree

A couple of m left of Hang 'em High. 1 BR

Trad 8m
20 Gallows Humour Direct Start

3 m R of Kangaroo Court. Start on boulder, up past BR, R to arete then up Gallows Humour. 2 BR

Trad 10m
8 Tarred and Feathered

Chimney

Trad 18m
19 Lynch Mob

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

Trad 11m
15 Mob Rule

Start same as Lynch Mob, then up center of face. 2 BR

Trad 10m
The Saddle Car-park Area The Saddle South Side
26 Adam

FA: Alan Gledhill & Geoff Gledhill, 1969

FFA: Mike Law, 1981

Trad 15m
The Saddle Car-park Area Western Walking Track
20 Stone the Crows

Obvious finger crack right on the side of the walking track.

Trad 12m
13 Trackside Traverse

Obvious rising traverse across the dyke, right next to the walking track.

Trad 11m
The Saddle Car-park Area Fig Leaf Slabs Area
10 Fig Leaf
Trad 26m
11 Fig Leaf Direct
Trad 24m
14 Two BA
Trad 25m
14 Traverse of the Gonzos
Trad 27m
The Saddle Car-park Area The Saddle North Side Big Deal Block
18 Big Deal
Trad 8m
The Saddle Car-park Area The Saddle North Side Chinese Porcelain Block
8 Silvia's Slab
Trad 10m
Rockwell Road North Urinal Wall
11 Pissing in the Wind

Starts 5m right of 'Short Vertical Crack'. Up and over the left-leading break and up the right side of a faint water-streak. No Protection.

FA: Russel Crow, 1985

Trad 15m
9 Short Vertical Crack

The short vertical crack

FA: Russell Crow, 1985

Trad 15m
Urinal Wall Mega Traverse
  1. Starts as for "Short Vertical Crack" (or variant up "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"-Which is safer!) and then traverses left to the first bolt of "Pissing on a Friend". Complete first pitch as for "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"

  2. Starts off ledge at "Dunny Door". Climbs diagonally left and up to a placement in the flake on "The Overflow" and then on "Lizard's Lair". Continue to bolts on "Busting for Relief" and "Harpic". More placements and then to the bolt of "Twyford Adamant". Finish up "Reversing Santa". Flake, Trad Belay.

Set by Grant Baxter & Luke Baxter

Mixed 2, 9
Urinal Mega Traverse (Alt Start)

Safer! Starts up "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse". See "Urinal Wall Mega Traverse" for details on the rest of the route.

Set by Grant Baxter

Mixed 2, 9
19 After the Deluge

This climb has been downgraded from 19 to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Midway tween Pissing on a Friend and Around the Bend. Up past BR to cams in centre of the overlap flake.

FA: Russel Crow, Hugh Hardwick & Dak Karla, 1995

Mixed 22m, 1
17 (Unnamed Traverse of Urinal Wall)

Starts off slabby 'ledge' below 'Dunny Door'. Climbs to the right off the ledge, to the second BR of 'Washing the Defectives'. This leads right to FH of 'The Royal Flush', the second BR of 'Aiming to Please', and the second BR of 'Round the Bend'. Then Trad placements in the flakes across 'After the Deluge' to a cam placement and the second bolt of 'Pissing on a Friend'. Then follow the slab up the headwall.

Mixed 5
14 Dunny Door

Climbs the nose of the buttress on good incuts but with NO PROTECTION.

FA: Mark Synnot, 1986

Trad 12m
14 When the Need Arises

Clean water-streak 1m left of 'Dunny Door', once again, with NO PROTECTION.

FA: Robin Linn & Hugh Hardwick, 1985

Trad 12m
14 The Overflow

An exfoliation flake dribbes across the rounded nose of the buttress (3m left of 'When the Need Arises'). Climb the clean wall to flake and up to the top.

FA: Hugh Hardwick, 1995

Trad 12m
11 The Lair

Linkup between 'Lizard's Lair' and 'The Overflow'.

Starts as for 'Lizard's Lair'. When the edge below dark water marks are reached, traverse right. Follow edge right and up to flake and into 'The Overflow'. Finish as for 'The Overflow'.

FA: Luke Baxter, Grant Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

Trad
7 Lizard's Lair

So named because a dead lizard was found in the crack.

Climbs in between 'The Overflow' and 'Busting for Relief'. Easy holds to flake, then you can place protection in the crack.

Set by Stephen Baxter, 30 Dec 2014

FFA: Grant Baxter, 30 Dec 2014

FA: Stephen Baxter, 30 Dec 2014

Trad 12m
16 Busting for Relief

This climb has been upgraded from 16 to 17 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

The climb has a few thin moves and is protected by one high bolt; however small cam placements are available on the left or right flakes above the bolt.

FA: Hugh Hardwick, Russel Crow & Robin Linn, 1985

Mixed 12m, 1
15 Better to Burn Out Than to Bust

This climb has been graded at 5 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Straight up the featured slab 2m left of 'Harpic' (the easy slab right of 'Twyford Adamant') passing a large creaking flake high up on the left. Poor Protection

FA: Russel Crow, 1985

Trad 12m
9 Reversing Santa

Gully chimney at the very left of the cliff line. The higher you get the smaller the chimney becomes until you have to revert to face climbing. Flake belay at top.

FA: Grant Baxter, 11 Jan 2015

Trad 8m
Rockwell Road North Urinal Wall Butt-Crack Boulders
The Crack

Chimney up between the two boulders.

Set by Grant Baxter

TradProject
Rockwell Road North The Matrix Area No Formula Block
12 Linear Constraint
Trad 5m
Rockwell Road North The Matrix Area Toroid Block
12 Toroidal Universe
Trad 6m
Rockwell Road North The Matrix Area i, j, k Block
17 Sinusoidal Function
Trad 7m
19 Cellular Automation
Trad 6m
15 Boundary Crack
Trad 5m
Rockwell Road North The Matrix Area Standing Wave
15 Delta Function
Trad 7m
Great Circle Drive North Royalty Walls
16 Ayatollah Magoo

Around the corner and up the hill from Jack Of Hearts is a gully. This is the steep crackline on the right-hand end of the wall on the right side of the gully when facing uphill, about 1m left of Queensryche.

FA: Andrew Corlass & James Falla, 1986

Trad 6m
16 Queensryche

The arete 1m right of Ayatollah Magoo.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1990

Trad 10m
10 Queen of Diamonds
Trad 12m
14 QueensTower

Set by Grant Baxter, 7 Aug 2015

Trad
13 The Watchtower

Follow crack system diagonally left until small roof is reached / 'Queen of Diamonds' is intercepted. Then right again and finish up 'Jack of Hearts'.

FA: L Baxx, Grant Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 6 Apr 2015

Trad 14m
13 Jack of Hearts

The thin seam up the middle of the wall to the horizontal break, then up to a ledge and easily over the blocks at the top. Brass micro-nuts recommended.

Trad 12m
8 Corner R of Jack of Hearts

Unlikely to be a FA, but hey, I'll claim it until someone else does.

This climb has been upgraded from 8 to 9 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

FA: .

Trad 12m
20 Regicide

Ridiculously run out to the first bolt. If your sane, you can protect the lower moves by placing trad protection in the crack of Royal Auto.

Mixed 10m, 1
17 Royal Auto

FA: Russ Crow, 1985

Trad 10m
17 Royalty Wall Traverse

Starts up "The Lazy Yak" until it joins "Lara". Out across wall past 2 BR's into "Megs's Misfortune". #2 BD Cam here then across wall past another 2 BR's then up to anchor. Large wires and BD cams to #2, or equivalent.

FA: L Baxx & Grant Baxter, 14 Mar 2016

Mixed 20m, 4
5 The Lazy Yak

Start around right of "Tree In A Crack" on horizontal crack below "Royal Auto". From here; directly up until joins with "Lara".

FA: Grant Baxter, Stephen Baxter & L Baxx, 12 Mar 2016

Trad 12m
14 Tree in a Crack

The thin crack just R of the nose leads past a tiny tree and moves right into Laras Knockers

Trad 15m
10 L.T.

Climbs face between 'Tree in a Crack' and 'Lara'

FA: Grant Baxter, 26 Dec 2015

Trad 15m
8 Lara's Knockers

The left of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Trad 15m
8 Megs's Misfortune

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

FA: 8 Mar 2009

Trad 14m
14/15 MM/B Linkup

Starts up 'Megs's Misfortune' until just before first bolt of 'Buckingham'. Tend diagonally up and join 'Buckingham' for second bolt and rest of climb. Take cams to protect crack and slings to extend.

MixedProject 16m, 2
19 The Royal Wave

FA: Grant Baxter, 6 Apr 2015

Trad 8m
5 Indiana Valley

FA: Grant Baxter, 6 Apr 2015

Trad 5m
Great Circle Drive North Nature Boy Block
14 Camwalk

The obvious off width crack on the right hand side arete.

Trad 11m
16 Nature Boy

The shallow corner groove, just right of Camwalk. Marginal protection down low leads to a right leaning ramp/crack and topping out over some hollow sounding rock.

Trad 13m
12 Koala
Trad 12m
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area
18 Not (Quite) the Eiger

1m left of Opossum. 1st ascent Steve Monks Solo.

FA: Steve Monks, 1976

Trad 13m
16 Opossum

Prominent corner off width at the far left end of Question of Ethics wall.

Trad 13m
24 Chuck Solids

Finger tearing and bold, just right & around the corner of Mean Streak.

Mixed 20m, 3
26 Edging Bets
Mixed 20m, 3
28 Broken Dreams
Mixed 28m, 3
19 Blue Moray Crack
Trad 8m
16 Silver Knight

Good moves with good natural protection.

FA: Peter Lindorff & John McMahon, 1971

FFA: Joe Verbaken, David Lia, Peter Megens, Steve Pawley, Cathy Seccombe & Eileen O'Meagher, 1975

Trad 15m
24 High Voltage

2 FHs. Left of The Chuchu. From the second bolt, powerful span into the crack to the right and up this. Take wires for the top section. Trad anchor on top.

FA: Martin Lama, 1992

Mixed 14m, 2
10 The Chuchu
Trad 18m
25 The Razor's Edge

Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right and onto the run out slab.

FA: Martin Lama

Mixed 18m, 2
17 Asylum for the Insane

Crimpy edges to start past 3 bolts, followed by easy ground through a jam crack.

Mixed 22m, 3
17 Can't Buy a Thrill

Quite a nice climb now with the addition of a fixed hanger down lower. Up the face on small edges in the pale water streak, past a fixed hanger and carrot. Finish up the jam crack. Double ring bolt belay at top.

Mixed 16m, 2
16 Blue Skies From Grey
Mixed 18m, 1
15 The Long Traverse
Trad 20m
The Stockyards Car-Park Area North-Western Outcrop
18 Phlebotomy

Up offwidth until it goes skinny and cruise to the top. The start is the crux. Original ascent says 17, but its more like a hard 18 or easy 19.

Trad 16m
20 Grimulace
Trad 15m
20 Santa's Last Entry

FA: Steve Monks, 1987

Trad 15m
24 It Came From Outer Melbourne
Trad 15m
9 Virgo
Trad 14m
18 Talmud

The obvious corner crack with a small ledge at half height and flake at the top. Great crack climbing of various sized jams. Gear anchor.

Trad 15m
16 Tozanton
Trad 13m
16 Donjon
Trad 12m
13 Double Plus Crud
Trad 15m
14 Grunt
Trad 13m
The Stockyards Car-Park Area Exam Technique Face
20 Wax and Wane

Up thin crack at left end of face, step right and up slab past 3 bolts.

Mixed 15m, 3

Showing 1 - 100 out of 127 routes.