Routes as trad in The You Yangs

Left of "water-runnel". Looks like no gear.

3m R of Foot Fetish. Past undercling (cam), clip BR continue up diagonal crack (cam) to Foot Fetish top BR

Seam and crack above. Jaming not really required

4m R of Crack Up and 1m Left of Oral Fixation. Trad in horizontal then 2 BR.

1m R of Nervous Twitch, 1m L of right arete. Up thin crack.

Traverse along undercling break from Anally Retentive to Labotomy. Finish along overlap.

Start far last at bottom of crack, hand traverse all the way to the end of horizontal crack. Escapable towards the end. Must a have been climbed before, too obvious, right on the track not to have been. Will be a great highball boulder problem.

Left leading flake crack at left end of gully then slab

Sort of a direct variant to Tugboat Annie. From the left hand end of the face at the base of the low overlap, climb straight up to join the final stages of Tugboat Annie. There is no protection until Tugboat Annie’s flake corner is reached.

Pocketed crack.

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

Overhanging deep crack/off width through cave from The Slot Machine.

A couple of m left of Hang 'em High. 1 BR

3 m R of Kangaroo Court. Start on boulder, up past BR, R to arete then up Gallows Humour. 2 BR

Chimney

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

Start same as Lynch Mob, then up center of face. 2 BR

Obvious finger crack in the middle of the wall right on the side of the walking track.

Obvious rising traverse across the dyke, right next to the walking track. Start as for Stone the Crows.

Thrutch your way up the chimney at the back of the short, narrow gully, at the left hand end of the wall.

Submit yourself to part of the chimney as for Furnace, then blast out right onto the slab passing a BR and flakes to the top. DBB.

Start under boulders 15m right of Tewkesbury and move up left under them then follow the easiest path up the slab.

R end of slab, 3m R of large blocks, crack L to slabs

The obvious traverse down the right end of Wave wall to the FH (original peg used by many in situ immediately below this). Up the orange water streak above to DRBB.

Anchor located ~1.5m below and right of the narrow strip of vegetation. Either lower /rap or scramble carefully up then left to escape.

DRB anchor. (old DBB will be pulled once the new anchor has been tested)

New anchor added 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

From the step across to the Upper Tier ledge, a faint crack heads up to a scoop level with the Wasteland ledge. 2 old BR lead the way up left into the orange water streak immediately right of the Bill and Ben finish. DBB as per that climb.

Scramble up to the Wasteland ledge. Originally took the short crack till its end and then traversing 2m left and up the Wasteland water streak at grade 13. Straightened up, now taking the water streak directly above the short crack. 4 FH to Wasteland DRBB.

Retro'ed with permission from the FA 01/24.

A few m right of A Bit To The Right is a BR. Start a few m right of this and onto the diagonal ramp to the BR. Mossy slab above.

Starts at the base of the diagonal ramp starting at the far right end of the ledge. Takes the ramp clipping the bolt on Bellvuesses and A Bit To The Right and finishing up the later.

Great line in the middle of the overlap, leading to obvious offwidth, which can be tough for the grade if you're new to the technique.

Excellent, sustained and steep for the You Yangs. Has been re-bolted with 2 FH. 2 carrot bolts on top as anchor and easy walk off to the left.

The slick and rounded crack with a very thin start.

Right hand arete of main wall. Bouldery start on edges, up to hanging flake. 1 carrot for belay above on slab.

Left leaning crack.

Left hand line of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly right on thin edges past carrot. Carrot has a large head and many bolt-plates may not fit.

An absorbing with sustained climbing on tiny edges. Start off small boulders on right hand arete of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly leftwards past a BR and FH.

Start as for Slip Slop Slap to its first BR , Then step R and up to a BR-(may need a wire) and straight up to jugs.

Steep climbing on small edges. Starts off boulders !m left of RH arete of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly R past 2 BRs then L to a high vertical seam leading to the top.

On right hand side of the Alex In Disneyland slab is a narrow chimney and a small, pointed pinnacle beyond. On the left hand side of the downhill face of this pinnacle is a left leading crack, 10m right of Alex in Dinseyland - this is "The Let Down 3 1/2 Bodylengths"

Start just left of centre of the 'Boring Slab.' No pro, solo. Committing friction slabbing.

Start below the lowest BR on the 'Boring Slab'. Up past 2 more BRs on steepening ground past horizontal seam to top.

Climb the rising seam running from right to left across the face until it finishes then head straight up the slab to large block.

3mts right of Fig Leaf, follow the thin seam to the dishes then slight leftwards up the rounded arete past the second bolt on Ask Uncle Max

The line up the centre of the buttress located between Blue Eyes and Fig Leaf. 2 carrot bolts.

The obvious crack 6mt left of the gully at the right hand end of the cliff. Follow the crack to half way, then step left and follow the crack to the V-corner to finish.

Start up Fig Leaf crack until it finishes, then continue straight up the slab past the second bolt on Ask Uncle Max.

2mts left of Fig Leaf, straight up the slab on good edges and crimps past 2 carrot bolts. Finish as for Fig Leaf

5mts left of Fig Lleaf, up the black water-streak past 2 spaced carrot bolts, then head left into the groove to finish up the short chimney.

Arete on left hand end of block. Up to BR and horizontal break, stepping slightly right to finish up crack in cap-stone.

As for PGBWSII, traversing right to finish.

Traverse under cap-stone in either direction.

On the block to the R (looking up) of Pretty Green Boulder. Up the crack and slab above.

Pikers variant to Crack and slab. Up the initial crack, step right and up the crack.

Leftwards trending finger crack on steep, south face of pinnacle, approx 30 left of Eastern Walking Track (facing north), where Track turns from east-west to north-south, ~200m from Saddle car park area.

Crack on the opposite side of the Eve block.

Up crack in south face to break, then up onto steep slab past BR to top. DBB

Short, but nice climbing. 1 BR up high.

Arm swallowing crack in middle of south face. May swallow legs too.

Approximately 30m around to the right of the Emperor's New Rope face is a small gully. Lauren takes right trending finger crack midway up gully on right hand wall.

Trad - of the no gear variety! Scramble further up the Lauren gully to a small open area, continuing straight ahead (eastwards) to the NARN block. NARN is the right hand arete.

First some caving, then some climbing. Scramble/squeeze down into slot left of the NARN block. Climb slab past a manky, old, bent and twisted bolt. Maybe give it another twist for good luck! Trad anchor.

Arete left of Adam past BR and FH to horizontal break, exiting right.

The prominent left-trending crack in the middle of the block. Up to horizontal and onwards through offwidth crack in cap-block.

First climb in the You Yangs.

3m left of POS take the face past BR to horizontal crack. Plug in an RP and continue upwards to second BR and summit DRBB.

Arete on south western corner of block. No bolts.

To the left of the main face is a small alcove. Climb the parallel cracks on the left face, resist the urge to use the right wall

Face then move into crack at half height.

Crack 1m right of Sinovac

Crack 1m right of Pfizer with one high BR

Face just left of Astra Zenecca to flake then left.

Hand-wide crack in center of wall

Crack 1m right of Anti-vaxer

Starts 5m right of 'Short Vertical Crack'. Up and over the left-leading break and up the right side of a faint water-streak. No Protection.