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Description

Home to one quite decent V2 problem and bit more potential nearby.

Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach

Park on the corner of Davey St and Tarragindi road, there is a Toohey's forest sign and track leading east up the hill, ignore it and head about 45 deg left of the track straight up the hill on a faint track. About 50m away is 'The Mushroom', you can see the road from the boulder.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start on the boulder to the right of the warmup boulder with the V5s. Start compressing between a left jug, and right jug and straight up via a powerful throw.

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2016

Crawl into the cave and start in the middle point, and climb your way out. The rock is sharp, so wrap yourself up like a mummy and get ready to destroy yourself!

Sit start on the sloper shelf and up using an awesome high pocket!

FA: Alex Mougenot, 2016

Sitstart towards the left of the boulder on some small crimps. Up and left through a few diabolical moves on small holds to the juggy lip.

A great problem, with good holds and nice crimpy, flowy movement! Sit start on the arete with the big loose undercling and left crimp. Follow the natural line of crimps up and left, topping out in the centre of the wall.

The line right of the arete, starting on the juggy flake.

Short, easy. Climbs the obvious arete of the boulder opposite The Mushroom.

This is the natural version of The Mushroom, without using the chipped pockets. Sit start at the back wall on a side pull and sloper, move onto the good juggy break with your right hand. Avoid the chipped holds and mantle over the blunt nose.

http://strandedclimbers.blogspot.com.au/2012/12/summer-evening-at-tooheys-forest.html

Start on the slopers at the back, or on the big jug, a couple moves through the roof on suspiciously artificial holds, then mantle up to the right.

Starting under the roof, then its onto the face, onto better low holds, left foot up high onto front of boulder and slap up for a small side pull. Right foot up, squeeze in and slap again for top.

Start on the start of the lip at the back of the boulder, then traverse left until the shelf runs out, use a perfectly place face hold to reach the next juggy shelf. From this top out with the arete. Will be a cracker!

Activity

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