Climb the face and avoid the arete. Be careful clipping the fourth bolt.

FA: JBA, 2012

Vision

A 'Castle Hill' classic. A great climb to do in the afternoon. The route was rebolted in late 1998 to make it completely safe. Simply great climbing with excellent positions up the top.

Start: Starts a few metres down R of TS. If you can't find TS, walk past the bouldering wall, keeping an eye out for a wide chimney (landmark) up through the grass on your L. Continue past this for a few metres, keeping on the track until you hit the (overall) third railing on the track. Once here, punch up the hill through the grass for 10m (no track) to the base of the blunt arête of the large, slightly detached block that is the start of the climb. You'll know you're on track if you see a series of big, silver 90 degree FHs quite close together up the face.

1. 20m (18) A fairly tricky lead because the moves feel insecure. To start, climb up easily to clip the first FH. Cruxy moves through the second and third FHs will have you thinking. Keep going up past FHs until you reach the crack (medium wires) where the climb eases. Up to tree belay or back to the chains behind the tree. 'Escape' off L (chains) is possible here, but keep climbing because the next pitches are better.

2. 15m (16) From the DBB behind the tree, step up onto the cheat stone and sidle L onto the thin face to clip first FH. Sweet moves past thin stuff interspersed with two thank-you-God, finger-engulfing jugs will lead you past the second and third FHs to the massive, exposed slab with fantastic views, easy moves and good bolts. Keep it goin' on until you run into the ledge and DBB. A great pitch. You can scramble off L here if needed.

3. 30m (19) You'll need about 12 draws for this pitch. From the DBB, traverse R and up to clip the FH. Keep traversing R to clip another FH in a very photogenic position (some climbers choose to now traverse back and clean the first FH to reduce rope drag). From here it's up and R clipping bolts into the corner. Now cruxy and quite sustained moves up the pocketed corner to the top where some manky bolts belonging to 'Rusty Bolts' can be found along with the chains for this climb, about 4m back from the edge.

FA: Rik Wittkopp, Nathan Walmsley, 2002

FA: Rik Wittkopp, Nathan Walmsley (alt), 2003