A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Luen Warneke John Newby Fil Kindblad Benjamin Korff Luke Nick Murphy Jarrah Matt Brooks Jackson Alexander Turnbull
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Magnetic Island
269 in Crag
- 1.1. Picnic Bay 7 in Area
- 1.2. Hawkings Crag 3 in Cliff
-
1.3.
Rocky Bay 93 in Area
- 1.3.1. Backpackers Boulders 14 in Sector
- 1.3.2. Rocky Headland 2 in Sector
-
1.3.3.
Left Side 28 in Sector
- 1.3.3.1. Tiny boulder 0 in Boulder
- 1.3.4. The Middle Boulders 11 in Field
- 1.3.5. Central Block 15 in Cliff
- 1.3.6. Whale Boulder 23 in Boulder
-
1.4.
Nelly Bay 26 in Area
- 1.4.1. Death Slab 3 in Boulder
- 1.4.2. Possum Crag 5 in Crag
- 1.4.3. Pride Rock 17 in Crag
- 1.4.4. Resort Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.5. Geoffrey Bay 1 in Area
- 1.6. Alma Bay 38 in Area
- 1.7. Olympus Crag 4 in Crag
-
1.8.
Arthur Bay 31 in Area
-
1.8.1.
Arthur Bay South end 24 in Boulder
- 1.8.1.1. Mangrove Boulders 8 in Boulder
- 1.8.1.2. Beachfront Boulders 13 in Area
- 1.8.1.3. Bad Voodoo boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.8.2. Fireball 2 in Boulder
-
1.8.1.
Arthur Bay South end 24 in Boulder
- 1.9. Searchlight Tower 4 in Area
-
1.10.
Radical Bay 17 in Area
- 1.10.1. Eagle Rock 5 in Boulder
- 1.10.2. Stonefish 1 in Boulder
- 1.10.3. Aplite Wall 4 in Crag
- 1.10.4. Twin Peaks Boulders 1 in Boulder
- 1.10.5. Boulder 1 1 in Boulder
- 1.11. Balding Bay 6 in Area
-
1.12.
Horseshoe Bay 25 in Area
- 1.12.1. West End 18 in Field
- 1.12.2. The Beach House 4 in Boulder
- 1.12.3. Selective Disclosure 1 in Boulder
- 1.12.4. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.13. Endeavour Cliff 1 in Crag
-
1.14.
Huntingfield Bay 8 in Area
- 1.14.1. The Birthday Party 2 in Boulder
- 1.14.2. Cake Flake 1 in Boulder
- 1.14.3. Barnacle Bill's 5 in Boulder
-
1.15.
Liver Point 5 in Crag
- 1.15.1. Psico Dock 4 in Boulder
- 1.15.2. The Wall 1 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Magnetic Island 269 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.142139, 146.836090
description
Magnetic Island, a boulderers dream. The island is covered with boulders with an uncountable number of potential problems. Beachside bouldering and climbing next to hoop pines on a tropical island, what more could you want? It's the perfect place to explore new areas and contribute your own first ascent. From small technical sit starts to highball problems with terminal landings. There's plenty of fine routes to be done.
The new guidebook, Townsville Climbing 2020 Edition, covers Magnetic Island and can be found at Climbing Anchors.
access issues
Most areas are free to access to the public, some are closed for short times during the year due to car, bike and running races and other events such as flooding, bushfires or landslides after heavy rain but they will open again soon after.
approach
Catch the ferry across to the island takes about 20 mins.
ethic
Marking the rock at the start of the climbs used to be the norm, this is now frowned upon.
history
Most developed areas are found in the popular bays, but don't stop there go explore!
Keep an eye out for snakes, death adders (a type of snake) are quite common on Magnetic Island.
1.1. Picnic Bay 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.179201, 146.840038
description
A few alright problems at the RH end of the bay when facing the ocean, and in amongst the scrub behind this part of the beach. But realistically this is not one of the better bays.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 |
Terrifying
A terrifying V8 somewhere in the bay. FA: Tully Rohrer | V8 | ||||||
|
1.1.1. West Side 4 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.181341, 146.836940
description
Collection of boulders on the Western side of Picnic Bay.
approach
Adjacent to the Picnic Bay stinger nets and associated facilities
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
West Side BoulderLocated at -19.181278, 146.836925 | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Picnic Pounce
Start on undercling 1m left of JM and step up the ramp before setting up for launch to pocket jug just shy of the top. Mantle finish. Might be a touch harder if you're short. | V2 | ||||||
3 |
★★ Jammers Mastication
The prominent line up jugs and the crack in central to the boulder. Start standing on the boulder at the base of the overhang. FA: James Hardcastle, 14 Jan 2020 | V2 | 5m | |||||
4 |
Stone Moves
FFA: Mike Maddox | V7 | ||||||
Bulge Boulder | ||||||||
6 |
The Bulge
Farther down Picnic Bay is a giant boulder that looks like a turtle head sitting on top of other boulders. Start matched on the crack with feet to the right, then proceed to (desperately) mantle the shelf above the crack until you're able to fully stand on the shelf then top it out. You'll want 3 spotters, because if you fall to the right, it's pretty much death on the breakers. FFA: Ryan Miller | V5 |
1.1.2. East Side 2 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.178783, 146.842731
description
Fresh rock, so a bit chossy. Check your holds before putting weight on them. Climb at low tide or half the boulder won't be accessible.
approach
Get off the bus and walk all the way down to the end of the beach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Picnic Bay BoulderLocated at -19.178469, 146.842255 | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Hard Boiled
Climb up the edge of the boulder. FA: Matt Angus, 28 Nov 2014 | {US} V3 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★★ West Face
Easy climb up. Also the down climb if you top out. FA: Matt Angus, 28 Nov 2014 | {US} V1 | 6m |
1.2. Hawkings Crag 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.176396, 146.843398
description
Easy access to a small cliff.
approach
1 min walk
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Oxygen Cascade
Up the obvious crack to traverse right to mantle. Tree belay. FFA: Luen Warneke, 5 Jul 2020 | 17 | 10m | |||||
2 |
Hypoxia
Up the left leaning crack to join in with Oxygen Cascade at traverse. Tree belay. FA: Luen Warneke, 5 Jul 2020 | 17 | 9m | |||||
3 |
Loss of Equilibrium
The left leaning crack to join in at the mantle on Oxygen Cascade. Tree belay. FA: Luen Warneke, 5 Jul 2020 | 19 | 12m |
1.3. Rocky Bay 93 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.174835, 146.845495
description
Some of the best bouldering on the Island, as well as some of the best roped climbing on the prominent Central Block. The climbing at Rocky Bay offers numerous problem and worthwhile routes with a good range of grades. Rocky Bay is also an established nude beach.
approach
To get to Rocky Bay form Nelly Bay ferry terminal, walk on the path around left and continue, past the XBase Backpackers and up to the lookout. From here, walk down the rough track which starts on the seaward side of the large boulder with a nice looking slab on the back.
1.3.1. Backpackers Boulders 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.172911, 146.846034
description
The first sector of boulders you come across as you leave the Xbase backpackers. This sector of boulders continues west (right as you face the sea) until you reach the small headland (the obvious 10 meter face).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
A whaley nice problem
Stand start and mantle onto sloppy boulder. Description and grade may need to be edited as this was mostly created as a place holder for the guide. | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Something nice
Start on underclings on hanging boulder then move up using boulders to the sides. Description and grade may need to be edited as this was mostly created as a place holder for the guide. | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Highball arete
Stand start on arete. Move straight up with some balancy moves for a committing top. | V3 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★★ The Tasmanian Giant Crab Walk
Stand start on the far right hand arete using hold around corner and hold in seam. Move left along seam and then up at first vertical break. | V4 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Hawaiian Jumping Crab
Slightly contrived but fun. Start as for TTGCW, except head straight up to finish mantling lip before the 1st obvious vertical break. | V4 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★★★ The Japanese Spider Crab Walk
Start as for TTGCW but continue left along the rail to finish up the left hand arete. Mega classic on good rock! | V5 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ The Succulent Breastle
Stand-start on breast like feature, head straight up. | V4 | 3m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Dan's V7
Start matched on obvious rail, head straight right then up. | V7 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★★ Parliment of Funk
Roof off width, prepare to be sick. Sit start at the back of the little cave. FA: Blake Stringer, Jul 2015 | V5 | ||||||
10 |
Mr Squiggle Goes Skinnydipping
Walk towards the backpackers until it is visible, the route is in the middle of a wall facing the resort, and follows the obvious flake that stops at half height. FA: Steve Baskerville & Keith Van Den Broek, 1999 | 18 | 10m | |||||
11 |
★★ Underworld
From the back of the cave, crimp and chimney traverse the break on the left wall. Comitting move around corner to LH jug and solid foot, transfer to RH rib, up and mantle out. FA: Fil Kindblad, 24 May 2017 | V4 | ||||||
12 |
★ Born slippy
Campus start up the rib and mantle out FA: Fil Kindblad, 22 May 2017 | V2 | 4m | |||||
13 |
★ Funky meniscus
Stand start at the pancake flake crimp edge and out as for president of funk. Adding this because I tore my meniscus battling for an onsight of PoF, only to find it was a sit start. FA: Fil Kindblad, 22 May 2017 | V3 | 2m | |||||
14 |
High hopes
Follow the LHS crack to the inner corner of the roof, jam or crimp your way out and mantle out left. FA: Fil Kindblad, 22 May 2017 | V1 | 3m | |||||
|
1.3.2. Rocky Headland 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.173888, 146.845485
description
This sector includes the large faces and boulders that make up the small headland that separates the backpacker boulders and the nude beach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bilbo Swaggins
Arete starting on the seasideish. Grade may be wrong. FA: Alexander Turnbull, Jul 2015 | V5 | ||||||
2 |
Hill Side Arete
Starting on the hillside face and up the arete. Don't know the name. Grade may be wrong. FA: Dan Gordon, Jul 2015 | V6 | ||||||
|
1.3.3. Left Side 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.174427, 146.845104
description
This is the quickest to get to and offers a range of solid problems. Grades can change depending on the height of the sand that fluctuates with the tides.
approach
Walk down the rough track from the road/lookout.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Reverie BoulderOne of the larger boulders close to where you come down into the beach. | ||||||||
2 |
Charge!
Up laybacks to jugs on loose granite. No good foot holds. | V1 | 4m | |||||
3 |
Full Charge
A harder line the traverses the crackli | V5 - 7 | 6m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Reverie
FFA: Darrin Carter & Aaron Jones, 1999 | V5 | 5m | |||||
5 |
American Invasion #1
This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).) FA: Matt Zimmerman | V9 | ||||||
Spotter BoulderA smaller boulder in between two larger one. | ||||||||
7 |
★ SPOTTER!?
The name describes the first attempt at the climb where a climber was not spotted properly and ended up injured FA: Bailey craig, 2 Oct 2018 | V2 | 3m | |||||
Goanna BoulderThis boulder has some warm up problems. | ||||||||
9 | ★ Cheese grater | V4 | 5m | |||||
10 | Make lettuce, cook salad | VB | 4m | |||||
11 | Concrete Goanna | V1 | 3m | |||||
12 | ★ Concrete Goanna Sit Start | V2 | 4m | |||||
13 | Span Me | V6 | ||||||
14 | Thrice | V0+ | 3m | |||||
15 |
Possible
Open Project. Crimp and pinch up to a bad sloper and mantle. | V5 | 4m | |||||
16 |
★★ Scroggible
Match start on under cling near the start of scroggin. Avoid using the holds of Thrice for the proper tick. FFA: Jackson & caleb, 16 Jan 2020 | V4 | 3m | |||||
17 | Scroggin | V0- | 3m | |||||
18 | 79.54% | V0- | 3m | |||||
The Kids BoulderA smaller boulder with several easier problems. | ||||||||
20 | What did one ocean say to the other ocean? | VB+ | 2m | |||||
21 | Nothing he just waved. | VB- | 2m | |||||
22 | Do you sea what I did there? | VB- | 2m | |||||
23 | Seariously... Do you? | VB- | 2m | |||||
24 | Are you shore? | VB+ | ||||||
25 | Shell I stop then? | VB+ | 2m | |||||
Teenage BoulderThe boulder beside the kids boulder. | ||||||||
27 |
Beach Bulge
FFA: steve baskerville | V5 | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Tideline | V0- | 3m | |||||
29 |
Whale wheelie
On the side opposite the water, follow easy holds | V0- | ||||||
30 |
Nippy Crab Claw
Opposite side of boulder to 'Walk the line', there is a nice crack for your hands to start | V0- | ||||||
31 | Rocks in my head | V0 | 3m | |||||
33 |
★★ American Invasion #2
A V8 to the R of "American Invasion #1", a sit start off the pockets into the orange scoop. FA: Matt Zimmerman | V8 | ||||||
34 |
★★★ American Invasion #3
About 25m further off the beach from "American Invasion #2" is a high cracked arête, and has a sloping slab to land on. FA: Matt Zimmerman | V8 | ||||||
|
1.3.3.1. Tiny boulder 0 routes in Boulder
description
Small boulder to the left of reverie boulder
1.3.4. The Middle Boulders 11 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.175048, 146.844968
description
Offering a range of technical problems, strenuous mantles, traverses and slabs.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ A Whaley Good Time
Jump and Mantle...I think this was the V6. | V6 | ||||||
2 |
★ Traverse
Started on right side and traversed left. Standing start FFA: Luen Warneke | V2 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Master slave
Standing start. The route goes straight up and over without using the groove on the right which is part of Mic drop. Great undercling FFA: Luen Warneke | V0+ | 3m | |||||
4 |
Mic drop
Standing start. Goes up the groove without using the holds of Master slave. FFA: Luen Warneke | V0+ | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Peach
match start on the undercling. FFA: Jackson & Caleb Quadrio, 16 Jan 2020 | V2 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★★ Slapperdie Slab
Slab climb. Good feet for the start, the crux is up high - stick those feet. | V3/4 | 7m | |||||
7 |
★★ Quart de Siècle
Up the runnel to the sidepull and slopey topout. FFA: Tristan Salson | V7 | 4m | |||||
8 |
Flaker
Scary and feeling exposed with rock. Starts of with a layback then into a pinch. Optional sit start doesnt change grade. Also works as a chimney climb. Mantling is the hard part over a boss to the left | V4 | 6m | |||||
9 |
Through the wine glass
Open project. Same as Flaker, but instead of up left and mantling. Continue around up right. | V5 | ||||||
10 |
The Beast In The Boulder
Open Project. Scary and feeling exposed with rock below. Undercling up to a left sloper and right pinch then undercling to a fist jam crack climb. | V5/6 | 6m | |||||
11 |
★★ The Beast In The Boulder Halfway
"The Beast In The Boulder" to cave. | V2 | 3m | |||||
|
1.3.5. Central Block 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.175560, 146.845024
description
All routes are naturally protected but it's also easy to set up top ropes on anything. Take padding to protect your ropes from the harshness of the granite. Shade can be found all day, but mostly in the afternoon.
approach
The routes are on the large block pretty much in the middle of the beach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad linesTrad lines in this sector. There are some real classics on the overhanging face. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Not Without Jase
To the L of the main block is a clean leaning layback corner that splits into two cracks on the top wall. Jase provided excellent entertainment on 2nd. #7 Hex goes in well. FA: Doug Hockly, Jason Shaw & Steve Baskerville, 1999 | 20 | 8m | |||||
3 |
Big Hairy Armpit
As good as it sounds. The broken corner R of NWJ. FA: Steve Baskerville & Keith Van Den Broek, 1999 | 8 | 8m | |||||
4 |
★ Preapologised
The diagonal offset fistcrack. It's not a warmup and it's not fun. I’m sorry about this climb. FA: Doug Hockly, 1999 | 18 | 10m | |||||
5 |
★★ Curlew
Follow the crack, sounds easy enough... Lots of fuss to get not very far. The crack all the way to Preapologised, finishing up it. Gets all day shade. FA: Doug Hockly, Rick Wittkopp & Peter Trezona, 1999 | 23 | 16m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Nature's Finest
The striking hand crack on the LHS of the block, going R to the jugs as soon as you can. #7 Hex goes in well. FA: Doug Hockly, Steve Baskerville & Jason Shaw, 1999 | 22 | 15m | |||||
7 |
Gropefest
Up the L arete and R onto the slab. Up the flake. A little loose and not well protected. FA: Steve Baskerville, Jason Shaw & Doug Hockly, 1999 | 8 | 15m | |||||
8 |
Why Aren't They Naked VS
Start just L of original climb. Desperate thin moves up to jugs, then traverse R to join original climb, "Why Aren't They Naked". FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000 | 21 | ||||||
9 |
★ Why Aren't They Naked
Up the nice thin crack up the middle of the front face to the horizontal (opposing wires), R and mantel. Up the corner back L. FA: Keith Van Den Broek, 1999 | 15 | 16m | |||||
10 |
Point of no return
Starting on the arete. Horizontal cracks at start for small gear. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 Apr 2018 | 15 | 12m | |||||
11 |
Mumble Crumble / Line 1
Up corner to ramp and continue up easier ground. Very crumbly on the face. | 15 | 12m | |||||
12 |
Line 2
Up crack to zig back left. Finish up flake. | 12 | 12m | |||||
13 |
Echidna Crack
Up weakness to finish up crack. | 19 | 10m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Brudl
Brudlly good. On the RHS of the block. Starts up the lowest finger crack, up to the horizontal, a move R and up the off finger crack. Finish L into the corner. FA: Doug Hockly, 1999 | 27 | 9m | |||||
Boulder Problems | ||||||||
16 |
Cheater
Starting on the arete and trying not to use the small boulder to the right. Very contrived. FFA: Jodie Rummer, 27 Apr 2018 | V0+ | 4m | |||||
17 |
Up and over
This starts on the face of the boulder. Stand start. Sit start would increase difficulty. FFA: Jodie Rummer, 27 Apr 2018 | V0 | 3m | |||||
|
1.3.6. Whale Boulder 23 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.176231, 146.845138
description
There is a bunch of fun beach bouldering. Try the bumcrack or the infuriating run-and-jump problem on the whale boulder.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
A monkey's uncle
Stand start | VB+ | 2m | |||||
2 |
Zebra stripes
Stand start | VB+ | 2m | |||||
3 |
In the shadow
Stand start | VB+ | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Jump start
Jump start onto good hold then straight up. Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V4 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Wholly Molly
Sit start up scoop featured face and arete. Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V2 | 3m | |||||
6 |
Nude only
Rockover move just 1m to the left of "Wholly Molly" by the Nude Only tag. FA: Catherine Bouchard, 5 Sep 2018 | V4 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ The Whale's Armpit
Stand start and up corner feature of the whale boulder. Can also try a running start. | V2 | 3m | |||||
8 |
Whale's Nose Ring
Running start. Hard to do statically and for the shorter people. FFA: Luen Warneke, 27 Apr 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||||
9 | ★ Whale's prow | V3 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★★ The Whale Rail
Start L of "Whale Traverse" at a tips mono pocket and traverse R along foot rails to exit up middle slabs. | V2 | 4m | |||||
11 |
★★ Belly of the Beast
Start at Whale Traverse and link into the top section of Whale Rail following the least steep rock. Can be done with a standing start or running start for that extra boost. I highly doubt I'm the first to do this so the name and grade may need revision. | V2 | 4m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Whale traverse
Traverse along the whale's flank to it's eyeball then up. Has some committing and balance moves. Mega classic! Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V6 | 5m | |||||
13 |
★ French Ninja Shadow Step
Run and Jump start to good lip then mantle. Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V0 | 2m | |||||
14 |
★ Fluke Scoop
Stand start and up good scoop features. Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V0 | 2m | |||||
15 |
★ Honeycomb
Plenty of good holds to use. Super easy - good for beginners | V0- | 2m | |||||
16 |
★★ Whalecomb
Juggy holds 1m right of honeycomb | V0- | 2m | |||||
17 |
The sitter
Start by sitting on the "Nudie rudie" rock. | V0 | 1m | |||||
18 |
★★ Spit on the Hill
Stand start on slopey pockets and alright footholds. Straight up to a tough and slopey mantle. Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V6 | 2m | |||||
19 |
★★ Nudie rudie
Slopers to the obvious horn. | V2 | 2m | |||||
20 |
Jumper Rumper
Just around the corner to right of Nudie Rudie. Slopers to the obvious horn. FFA: Luen Warneke | V2 | 2m | |||||
21 |
★ Humpback Breach
Stand start up small slab then mantle over lip. Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V4 | 3m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Whale Song
Stand start on slopey pockets, straight up to tough and slopey mantle, reminiscent of Castle hill. Classic! Route grade, name and description may need revising. | V7 | 2m | |||||
23 |
★★ Captain obvious
Bridge into the crack and top out delicately. FA: 24 May 2017 | V1 | 3m | |||||
|
1.4. Nelly Bay 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -19.156923, 146.845682
description
Nelly Bay is where the ferry terminal is located.
1.4.1. Death Slab 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.158837, 146.856643
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Death Slab
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 2011 | V2 | 7m | |||||
2 |
Bullwinkle
FFA: Ryan Miller | V3/4 | ||||||
3 |
For Trey
FFA: Kobie Rhodes | V1/2 | ||||||
|
1.4.2. Possum Crag 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.167345, 146.847290
description
Highball bouldering problems. A great area to practice stemming
access issues
Public land.
approach
From Nelly Bay ferry terminal, walk South towards X Base Backpackers. Just before you get to X Base, the boulders are on the right beside the road. Can also park a car across the road.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Wide Eyed Possum
Open project. Doesn't look high, but if you fall, you fall down a crack... Set: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 11 Aug 2018 | V2/3 | 4m | |||||
2 |
Scared Possum
Doesn't look high, but if you fall, you fall down a crack... FFA: Luen Warneke, 11 Aug 2018 | V1 | 4m | |||||
3 |
Do It Like A Possum
High ball, just don't fall. Stemming. FFA: Luen Warneke, 11 Aug 2018 | V0+ | 5m | |||||
4 |
★★ Mission Impossumable
Sit start. Highball and scary. Small crack with a layback and crimps. FFA: Luen Warneke, 11 Aug 2018 | V4 | 6m | |||||
5 |
Wedged Possum
Stemming. FFA: Jodie Rummer, 11 Aug 2018 | V0 | 4m |
1.4.3. Pride Rock 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.156051, 146.837259
- Be aware of loose rocks.
- The removal of vegetation is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment.
- Respecting the environment and keeping crags clean. Do not litter. This includes cigarette butts. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what Magnetic Island has to offer.
- Please do not initials the climbs.
- Please clean off your chalk marks where possible.
- Please do not chip holds.
- Open fires are prohibited in National Parks.
- No shooting & or domesticated pets allowed.
summary
Slab, crack and face routes
description
A large flat rock protruding out into the air providing a wall on either side, one with morning sun and the other with afternoon sun. Not the most well featured rock but has several climbs on it. The surrounding area has massive amounts of granite boulders which provides numerous route potential in a stunning location. Cool and shady areas for most of the day.
access issues
Please note that due to the fact that the Pride Rock lies within a Magnetic Island National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed.
approach
After arriving at Nelly Bay ferry terminal, walk towards the Scorpion Reclaimer on Kelly Street and bush walk up the dry creek bed to Pride Rock.
where to stay
Camping permits for Magnetic Island National Park are currently unobtainable from QPWS. However, there is a large flat place to pitch on the ridgeline just uphill from Pride Rock.
ethic
Safety In an emergency call 000. If helicopter evacuation is required, always give coordinates of your location. Pride Rock -19.15585, 146.83725
history
This area is named Pride Lands after discovering a rock formation that resembles Pride Rock from the Lion King franchise.
The Pride Lands is a monarchy-ruled kingdom with many landmarks. Pride Rock, a colossal rock formation, serves as the residence of the king of the Pride Lands. Places of Interest are Pride Rock, Water Hole, Elephant Graveyard
"Life in the Pride Lands, peaceful and so grand. Living is easy; just you believe me!" - Beshte
Discovered by looking at topographical maps and aerial imagery and first visited on 10/06/18 by Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer. This crag is named Pride Rock after discovering the rock formation that resembled Pride Rock from the Lion King franchise.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Be Prepared Slab | ||||||||
2 |
Look on the wild side
Open project. Left of Grazing in the grass, follow the slaby crack up. | 15m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
Grazing in the grass
Scrambling up the crack and slab. FA: Luen Warneke, 23 May 2021 | 12 | 15m | |||||
4 |
I just can't wait to be king
Open project. The slab climb leading up to Pride Rock. | 10 - 12 | 15m | |||||
Afternoon Wall | ||||||||
6 |
Upendi
This mantle move allows you to access the top of Pride Rock. The tree can be used to help assist with the mantle. FFA: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 10 Jun 2018 | 9 | 3m | |||||
7 |
Hakuna Matata
The crux is early on, a mantle. Easy access to the top and a DRB allows you to set up as a top rope. FA: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 12 Aug 2018 | 15 | 8m | |||||
8 |
What's a motto? Nothing. What's a motto with you?
Open project. Follow the crack up to the hole and then out left. | 10m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★ Simba's Crack
This climb has a bit of everything: laybacks, slopers, and crimps. There's a perfect resting area before the last crux, a mantle to get up to the DRB. Can easily set up as a top rope climb. FA: Luen Warneke & Jodie Rummer, 12 Aug 2018 | 17 | 10m | |||||
10 |
Warthog's Backside
Open project. It's a hard start without the tree. Decent crimps in the middle to the razor sharp crux crimps at the top. Top out with slopers then a mantle to DRB. Can easily set up a top rope. | 23 - 25 | 12m, 2 | |||||
11 |
Open Project
The obvious crackline | 12m | ||||||
Face | ||||||||
13 |
Proud Fish Variant 2
Open project. Traverse out R and join into Proud Fish below the overhang. | 15m | ||||||
14 |
Proud Fish Variant 1
Open project. Starting at the base of the cliff. Traverse R out to join into Proud Fish. | 25m | ||||||
15 |
Proud Fish
Open project. Starting at the base of the cliff, this is the longest climb at Pride Rock. Smearing and awkward moves up the featureless slab. This climb is named after the Proud Fish story. Side on, the rock looks like one fish with an underbite eating another fish with an underbite. | 35m | ||||||
16 |
Proud Fish Direct
Open project. Starting at the base of the rock up via crack joining into Proud Fish. | 45m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Morning Wall | ||||||||
18 |
The Great Circle Of Life
Open project. Stemming up to crackline. | 18 - 20 | 15m | |||||
19 |
Remember who you are
Open project. Starting left of Problem Free Philosophy, follow the crack up. | 10m | ||||||
20 |
Problem Free Philosophy
Open project. Crack climb. | 15 - 17 | 8m | |||||
The Lion Guard Boulder | ||||||||
22 |
Asante sana, Squash banana, Wewe nugu, Mimi apana!
Open project. Up the obvious crackline in the boulder. | 18 - 22 | 10m |
1.4.4. Resort Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -19.158868, 146.856437
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Descent
crouching matched start on the larger crimp, SS is V5/6. | V3 |
1.5. Geoffrey Bay 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.153650, 146.869889
description
On the left side of the bay, at the end of the road that takes you to the old ferry terminal, there's a path that takes you through some impressive looking boulders. Most boulders are blank, however there is certain potential in this area.
approach
Take the road off the main road just before Alma Bay that takes you right to the end of the old ferry terminal. Can't miss the giant boulder leaning over the path that takes you through the iconic magnetic island boulder maze.
ethic
Be mindful as this is a popular spot for tourists to take photos and feed rock wallabies.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Don't Knock the Rock
Start on the furthest left side of the slopey lip, just below the graffiti "N" and traverse right, following the lip all the way round until you can mantle up and over. Bad feet to start until you start traversing right. FA: Sam Lavender | V5 |
1.6. Alma Bay 38 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.149080, 146.870297
description
Most of the bouldering at Alma Bay is on the RHS (facing the ocean) of the beach. The first large boulder has a swag of good problems. Many of the boulders only accessible during low tide.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Behind the PandanusHidden on your right behind a Pandanus tree, when you hit the beach, before the Nice Boulder. | ||||||||
2 |
open project / inspiration
traverse on featured but thin wall. seems to be the only way through the overhang and extremely difficult. hopefully this inspires you! | |||||||
3 |
★ Green Ant
Somewhat contrived: Sit start, follow the diagonal crack. Big hand crack on the left (between the main and the little boulder) is allowed, but otherwise don't touch/step on the little boulders. From the handcrack straight up through an easy mantle (but careful not too fall onto the little boulder at the bottom). FA: Benjamin Korff, 11 Sep 2019 | V2 | 5m | |||||
Nice BoulderThe first boulder on the right when you arrive at the beach. There used to be a shelter just in front of it. | ||||||||
5 |
Make love, not war
Slab climb as you arrive at the boulder. | VB- | 2m | |||||
6 |
Kleptomaniac
Starting just left of Tang | V0- | 3m | |||||
7 |
★★ Tang
The thin, orange diagonal with a boulder to fall on. FA: Doug Hockly | V3 | ||||||
8 |
★ A Little Fervour VS
Stand start of "A Little Fervour VF" | V1 | 6m | |||||
9 |
★★ A Little Fervour VF
Sit start up and over left. | V4 | 6m | |||||
10 |
★★ A Little Fervour
Sitstart on pockets and up. Topout straight up or pike L - "A Little Fervour VF". FA: Doug Hockly | V5 | 6m | |||||
11 |
Stupid
Stemming and then finishing on "Tang" | V0 | 5m | |||||
Happy BoulderBeach facing side of the Nice Boulder | ||||||||
13 |
★★ Bleeding edge
From the jugs, throw big to the tiny slanting crimps. Crank and commit to the easier slab finish. FA: John Newby, 2015 | V7 | ||||||
14 |
★★ Slap Happy
The obvious rising traverse line from L to R on the next side around. Start as far left as possible and slap along right on very open-grip holds. Finish by topping out on the boulder. Quite a bit harder when done barefoot. FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998 | V1 | 6m | |||||
15 |
★★ Slap Direct
Starts 0.5m right of the start of SH at the two-handed undercling. Pull onto wall, slap up and left to hold, crimp, then a balancy high step and pull up to jugs and top of boulder. FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998 | V1 | ||||||
16 |
★★ Sandy Pants
Sit start with hands matched on the right-ish facing edge. Trends left after break. FA: David Barrie | V4 | 4m | |||||
17 |
★★ Nice
The nice line up the L-hand side. FA: Doug Hockly | V0- | 3m | |||||
18 |
★★ Reeven
The middle of the smooth slab. Finger tip pockets to a technical dyno. FA: Doug Hockly | V6 | ||||||
19 |
★ Even Steven
The R-hand side of the smooth slab facing the ocean. FA: Doug Hockly | V0 | 3m | |||||
Naughty BoulderThe smaller boulder with the sharp long top. | ||||||||
21 |
★ Addition
Sit start just to the left of Another. | VB+ | 2m | |||||
22 |
★★ Naughty
The boulder behind you when you're facing Slap Happy has a mono problem and a dyno from bottom jugs to the top. FA: Doug Hockly | V0 | 3m | |||||
23 | One More | VB+ | 2m | |||||
24 |
Adjoining
Traverse along the top of the boulder. | VB | 4m | |||||
25 |
Traverse
traverse until beefy side pull hold to top | V0+/1 | ||||||
Peaceful Boulder. | ||||||||
27 |
★★ Highball Flake
This climb will leave you with a good feeling afterwards. Nice jugy hold & laybacks up this flake to a slightly technical foot rockover. | V0 | 5m | |||||
28 | ★ Fetter | V0 | 3m | |||||
29 |
★★ Mantle
Short climbers start on shitty holds where as, taller climbers can skip the start and reach the jug to a mantle. | V2 | 3m | |||||
30 |
★ Muy Bueno
Probably easier, didn't spend much time dialing a sequence. Boulder directly opposite Once Removed wall. Cool sit start traverse. Start with slopey jug and head left. Head up when you hit the jug at the end of the scoop. FA: Nicholas Pattison, 29 Sep 2018 | V4 | 4m | |||||
31 | Shacked | V0- | 3m | |||||
32 | ★ Shacked VF | V0 | 3m | |||||
33 |
The Question
The flaring horror, between the massive chockstone and the back of the Peaceful Boulder. Stem, jam, reach and thrutch to the top. FA: Fil Kindblad, May 2022 | V1 | ||||||
34 | ★★ Crimpy Traverse | V0+ | 4m | |||||
Excited BoulderA short wall close to the boulders on the beach | ||||||||
36 |
★★ Once removed
Back wall in the boulders facing towards Arcadia. Stand start with flake side pull. Straight up. Pulling on is the highlight. FA: Nicholas Pattison, 29 Sep 2018 | V2 | 3m | |||||
37 | Tremmel | VB | 3m | |||||
Sad Boulder. | ||||||||
39 |
Bubble Butt
Pretty contrived. Sit start with bulge. Straight up. Most difficult part is keeping your ass off the boulder next to it. You're a better man than I if you can do it dab free. FA: Nicholas Pattison, 29 Sep 2018 | V3 | 1m | |||||
Euphoric Boulder. | ||||||||
41 |
★ Nach mir die Sintflut
On the ocean facing side of the Euphoric Boulder. Run-up to catch the sloper, then a little mantle move to top. May be easier barefoot than with shoes... Grade may be height dependent. FA: Benjamin Korff, 11 Sep 2019 | V3 | 3m | |||||
42 | Manacle | VB- | 3m | |||||
Mean BoulderBoulder with obvious off width crack, on the ocean facing side. | ||||||||
44 |
★ Ancient mariner
Up to gain the break, traverse left and up to easy ground. Low tide only. FA: Fil Kindblad, 25 May 2017 | V3 | 4m | |||||
Tropic SlabThe clean cut wall above the sloping slab 80m along the coast from the south end of the beach. | ||||||||
46 |
★★ Tropic of Cancer / The Mikhail Gorbachev Memorial Flake
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 19 Oct 2022 | V4 | ||||||
Magnetic Cactusslightly overhanging black face facing out to sea | ||||||||
48 |
Magnetic Cactus
FFA: Nick Churchill, 17 Oct 2022 | V2 | ||||||
Crimson Tide BoulderThis large boulder is just uphill from the path. | ||||||||
50 |
★★ Crimson Tide
Classic thin finger-crack in largest of several rocky outcrops on hill at south end of Alma Bay beach (right hand side of the bay as you look out to sea). Goes up the side facing the ocean. Located at -19.148893, 146.868235 FA: Andrew Rule & Mark Gommers, 1995 FFA: Doug Hockly & Jason Shaw, 1999 | 23 | 10m | |||||
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1.7. Olympus Crag 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.146822, 146.871078
summary
Easy access and great sea view make a great addition to Maggie's climbing scene.
description
Sometimes course climbing but has a lot of potential. Trad though some climbs will need bolting to lead.
access issues
Drive or walk to the end of Olympus Crescent near Alma Bay. Park where road ends.
approach
Walk down and angle right to get to the base of the crag. Top access is via a path going right directly from the road (also for descent).
history
Sam Kininmonth first started climbing at this crag in the early nineties with his Dad (Stuart) and little brother (Angus). They used to set up top ropes and scurry their way up barefoot.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hades
Painful with course granite. Follow the crack then step left on to fiddly face. FA: Sam Kininmonth, 1 Feb 2016 | 18 | 8m | |||||
2 |
Hades VF
Start up Hades and continue straight up the offwidth. FA: Luen Warneke, 6 Jul 2020 | 19 | 8m | |||||
3 |
★ Zeus
Obvious climb up the main face one or two thrilling moves. Requires trad anchor. FFA: Sam Kininmonth, 1 Feb 2016 | 9 | 10m | |||||
4 |
Medusa
Open project. Starting on the right. Up flake and traverse L along the obvious crack. Mantle to go up R of Zeus. Set: Luen Warneke, 6 Jul 2020 | 14m |
1.8. Arthur Bay 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.129749, 146.877640
summary
Compact collection of good boulder problems mostly grouped at the south end of the bay. The granite is generally very coarse, offering great friction but hard on the skin.
description
Arthur Bay is a popular beach for day trippers and until recently could be easily driven to. Take togs and plenty of water.
approach
Park at the Forts walk carpark. Arrive early or late in the day to get a carpark. Walk 10min down the steep bitumen road to the Arthur bay carpark the 5min along the track to the beach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 |
King Arthur
Twin cracks on the RHS rocks (looking out) at Arthur Bay. Start up the LH crack, some nice moves till it blanks, then take the RH one to a tree at the top. Rap off this. FFA: Lee Skidmore & Keith Van Den Broek, 1997 | 13 | 13m | |||||
3 |
★★ Beach Life
Starts on the little face/boulder at the L/north end of the beach. Start on the jug low and L up the seam, step L and up to the top out. FA: Lego Ritmo, 18 Feb 2018 | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★★ Beach Bum
Same start as BL but go direct to the top out from the break FA: Lego Ritmo, 18 Feb 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Another Day at the Beach
Start R of BL on under clings and make a move to the break, step R and use the under cling and no arête at the R end to gain the top jugs. FA: Matt Brooks, 18 Feb 2018 | V4 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★★ Beatiful one day, Perfect the next
Start at an under cling low on the R and using the arête feature to gain the break and the top. FA: Matt Brooks, 18 Feb 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
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1.8.1. Arthur Bay South end 24 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.129866, 146.875686
description
Excellent variety of climbing from easy slabs to steep desperation, on very coarse granite. Take a good supply of finger tape.
approach
Collection of boulders to your right as you arrive to the beach. All the boulders are independent of tides at present but this could change after the next tropical storm.
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1.8.1.1. Mangrove Boulders 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.129885, 146.875411
description
Walk/scramble in behind the beachfront boulders to a hotspot on the edge of the mangroves
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Le Morte D'arthur
Sit start to the left of the overhung arete with the sloping edges. Slap the lip and traverse left to gain the positive crimps on the slab for a mantle finish. Easier than Excalibur. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V6 | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Excalibur
Sit/crouch start (depending on your ape factor), with side pulls to the right of the prow. Big moves left around the prow, then finish up the arete itself. Vicious crimping. FA: John Newby, 2018 | V6 | ||||||
3 |
★ Daggers
Sit start. Hard pull and throw off the same start as Excalibur, straight up to an easy mantle finish. FA: John Newby, Sep 2021 | V4 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Mordreds groove
Crimps to mantle into the groove. Deceiving top out. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V2 | 3m | |||||
5 |
V2
Start on another pair of crimps to the right of the groove. Awkward top pushs moves left to rock into the groove. | V2 | 3m | |||||
6 |
★ Mangroves Traverse
Standing start, from crimps on the far right of the face, Traverse the face to finish up Daggers. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V3 | 5m | |||||
7 |
Jester
On the back of the Boulder up the black slab, is a horrible crimp line up friable rock. Probably one or two unclimbed lines are also along side it. Climb them if you have to. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V1 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ Medieval Brawl
This boulder line is found on your left on your way from the beach to Excalibur boulder. Sit start on crimps with big moves right then up, chickening out with a rock around left to the slab. Committing moves. Take extra pads. FA: John Newby, 2018 | V5 |
1.8.1.2. Beachfront Boulders 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.129772, 146.875641
description
Beach boulders with some easy jug hauls and cool slabs. A lot gentler on the fingers then some of the other areas.
approach
On your right as you come out onto the beach.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Oyster Feast
Sit start and up using the chocked boulder only. Drop a couple grades if you bridge out. FA: John Newby, 2018 | V4 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Mighty Eagle
Undercling the beak and up to the sloping mantle ledge FA: John Newby, 2018 | V4 | ||||||
3 |
★★ Scared Piggy
Same start as Mighty eagle but move left on the underclings to an easy finish. FA: Kobie, 2018 | V2 | ||||||
4 |
★ Cracked
Clever foot work makes this easier than it first seems. FA: John Newby & Kobie, 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Possum Magic
Thin and techy moves. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V2 | ||||||
6 |
Wallaby stitch up
Slab moves then easy finish FA: John Newby, 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||||
7 |
Up or Down
Easy scramble up the crack. | V0- | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Beach Bulge
Over the bulge and up the easy slab | V0 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★ Rubbish Day
From the big jug, reach big to good holds and easy mantle. | V0 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★ Sweaty Sand Castle
Opposite beach bulge, is a high start on crimps to a cool mantle. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V3 | ||||||
11 |
Sloppy Arete
Contrived but cool moves to avoid using the jug on your right. Jump and slap with your right onto the high slopey sidepull and over the arete. FA: John Newby, 2021 | V3 | ||||||
12 |
★ Jugs at the beach
Huge jug to mantle. | V0 | 3m | |||||
13 |
★ Gravel Corner
Stand on the small pinnacle to get a head start into short corner | V0 | 3m |
1.8.1.3. Bad Voodoo boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.129917, 146.875855
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Bad voodoo
From the Flake reach to crimps and a scarey mantle. Extra mats should ease the curse. FA: John Newby, 2018 | V4 | ||||||
2 |
Project
High start and big throw to a bad pinch. Probably a hard mantle from there. | |||||||
3 |
★ Gritty
Sit start and up the layaways. FA: John Newby & Kobie, 2018 | V2 |
1.8.2. Fireball 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.132175, 146.876203
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Fireball LHF
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 20 Oct 2022 | V2 | 6m | |||
2 |
★★★ Fireball
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 27 Mar 2022 | V2 | 5m |
1.9. Searchlight Tower 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.126310, 146.880669
description
Between Arthur and Florence Bay, the Searchlight Tower is at the end of a 600m long track. There are heavily featured boulders that line the track, and an impressive lookout at the end.
approach
Park at The Forts car park, and walk down the road to Arthur bay. Continue following the road, passing the Arthur Bay lookout, until you see a sign for "Searchlight Tower" on the right.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lookout BoulderThe boulder right the end of the path, with a fantastic view. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Use Both Hands, Climb Slowly
Reach (or jump if you are shorter) to the good rail above the warning sign to start. Avoiding the sign, head up and right along the crimps to a great mono, then mantle. FA: Luke | V4 | 4m | |||||
Picnic BoulderSuper featured boulder on the left of the trail, 70m before the lookout. | ||||||||
4 |
Picnic
Sit start. Follow the featured crack to the top. FA: Luke | V0 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Long Picnic
Start as far right as you can on the top break. Head left, then top out as Picnic. FA: Luke | V2 | 6m | |||||
6 |
Low Picnic
Sit start. Traverse the bottom break before joining and topping out at Picnic. | V3 | 5m |
1.10. Radical Bay 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Top roping and Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -19.112089, 146.874718
description
There is a track around the deserted resort.
Some 40+ good problems have been established at either the LH end or RH end. The high tide can dump or remove large quantities of sand and so the problem heights and difficulty can vary immensely.
The RH end when looking at the ocean has a bunch of slabs, a few steepish problems and a few classic high balls. Standouts include the high dome back from the beach a bit, and the few problems on and around the prominent big block.
The LH end has some classic high slabs, as well as some steep sit starts. Standouts include the walls of high slabs and the featured arête sit start on the back of the slightly less high wall of slabs.
access issues
You can drive out to Radical Bay but the road isn't well maintained.
approach
Access via road from the Fort Walk or via Horseshoe Bay to Radical Bay Track.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
4 | ★ Hueco overhang | V0 | 5m | |||
5 | ★ Crimpy face | V2 | 7m | |||
6 | ★ Back side | V1 | 3m | |||
7 | ★ The arete | V1 | 7m | |||
8 | ★ Wall to crack | V3 | 7m |
1.10.1. Eagle Rock 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -19.109748, 146.871668
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Eagle Rock
Dangerous, but easy. Prominent offwidth starting out of the ocean on the eastern side. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | 16 | 15m | |||||
Osprey Boulder | ||||||||
3 |
Osprey
FFA: Jarrah, 21 May 2022 | V1 | ||||||
4 |
★★ Roadrunner
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 29 Jun 2023 | V1 | ||||||
5 |
Brahminy
FFA: Jarrah, 21 May 2022 | V1 | ||||||
6 |
Sea Eagle
FFA: Jarrah, 21 May 2022 | V1 |
1.10.2. Stonefish 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -19.111040, 146.872250
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Stonefish
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 29 Jun 2023 | V0 | 8m |
1.10.3. Aplite Wall 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Top roping
Lat / Long: -19.111455, 146.872393
description
A small set of short cliffs with a few top roped climbs, potentially could be freed on lead, though were done back in May, 2015 as part of a yacht based exploration around the island looking for extra areas to open up. Plenty more cliffs and lines to be opened up in the area. Would be worth it for a dedicated trip with a good selection of gear for crack climbing. Have added photos I took that may help with finding the climbs, still awaiting a photo for a topo. - Nick Murphy, 2019
approach
Make your way down to Radical Bay via the road, or paddle into the harbour, and head West along the beach (to the left looking out over the water) and these will be the first short cliffs you come to.
ethic
Scrub off chalk marks, don't mark the climbs with initials, pick up your rubbish, leave it cleaner than when you arrived etc
history
Couldn't find any evidence or recordings of climbing on these earlier than when we (Nick Murphy, John MacDonald, Nathan English, Claire Rasmussen, Jess Hopf) first made it there, though likely chance that people had bouldered these before.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ A
1.5m right of the corner crack, straight up the face over the small ramp and top out. Anchors can be made off the boulders at the top. May be leadable on gear? FA: John MacDonald & Nathan English, 23 May 2015 | 15 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★ Cute Nose
1.5m right of 'A', up the face on thin holds to the overhanging flake and then big move to the top. May be leadable on gear? FA: John MacDonald & Nathan English, 23 May 2015 | 16 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★ C
The taller blunt arete to the right of 'B', climbing up good jugs on to the ramp. Watch for the boulder behind, good foe the belayer to lean on but could be hit by climber if not careful. Lead potential is definitely there FA: Claire Rasmussen & John MacDonald, 23 May 2015 | 12 | 6m | |||||
4 |
★ D
The arete right again, up on good holds, similar to 'C'. May be leadable on gear? FA: Claire Rasmussen & John MacDonald, 23 May 2015 | 13 | 7m |
1.10.4. Twin Peaks Boulders 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.112773, 146.876891
description
Identifiable by the prominent feature between two rocks which creates a nice bridging problem.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Too close for comfort
Classic bridging/stemming problem between two large boulders before a standard top-out. FA: Phil Beattie, 27 Dec 2015 | V4 | 5m |
1.10.5. Boulder 1 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.112742, 146.876817
description
Standard slab boulder.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Black Lodge
Good slab for beginner highballs, identifiable holds and beginner technical moves and balance. FA: Phil Beattie, 27 Dec 2015 | V1 | 4m |
1.11. Balding Bay 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.110577, 146.870214
description
Some great problems including a classic wall in the middle of the bay that goes at V2 or so. Some good other problems as well.
approach
Access is from Horseshoe Bay or Radical Bay.
Horseshoe Bay: There is a track on the RH end of Horseshoes Bay, cut R across the creek and follow the track through the scrub or follow the track behind the houses from Henry Lawson Street. The track then goes up hill to an signposted intersection.
Radical Bay: Follow the track LH end of the bay up and over to the signposted intersection.
From the signposted intersection, walk down into Balding Bay.
1.11.1. East Side 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.110331, 146.871395
summary
R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Cyclops (s) | V5 | ||||
2 |
★ Unkown (s)
Sit start | V0 | ||||
3 |
★★★ Coconut (s)
Sit start | V7 | ||||
4 |
★★★ Butterfly (s)
Sit start | V3 | ||||
5 | ★★ Butterfly traversre | V3 | ||||
6 | ★ DIngo Dyno | V4 |
1.11.2. Middle 0 routes in Area
summary
Middle (South Side) of bay While facing ocean
1.11.3. West 0 routes in Area
summary
L) hand side of bay while facing ocean
1.12. Horseshoe Bay 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.112335, 146.852231
summary
A great holiday destination bouldering area with an excellent swimming beach, water sports, and food and drink, all nearby.
description
A very under rated area of magnetic island, mainly because of the potential long walk along the beach to get to the best boulders. The west end of the bay presents some excellent roof lines and quality slabs in the lower grades. The east end is far more traveled and has a very good steep V4 and a handful of other ok lines. There is potential for problems at both ends as well as along the high tide track from Henry Lawson Street.
approach
The east end is an easy 10min walk along the beach at low tide from the end of the shops, or via the high tide track from the end of Henry Lawson Street.
The West end is a 30-40min grueling walk along the sloping bay. Or, you can drive to the end of Pollard Street (via Gifford st from Horseshoe bay rd). It is then an easy 5min walk from the car to the first boulders.
1.12.1. West End 18 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.114154, 146.840562
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Island dream
On your left amongst the first boulders as you walk down the beach. Slopey lay back arete, to slap a mantle finish. FA: John Newby, 2013 | V6 | ||||||
2 |
Black slab
Step onto the slab and trend right to the top. | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Chimney
Bridge and thrutch up between the two slabs. Actually worth the effort. | V0 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Seams like a slab
Climbs the obvious vertical seam. Delicate. | V2 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Slab City
The most obvious line up the slab via the protrusions. FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ My slab wants to be an arete
Onto the slab, trust your feet and trend right to the top of the arete. | V2 | 3m | |||||
7 |
Rockin Crockin
Sit Start as for Sand Beast, but rock over left onto the big ledge and stand up. Cool move but not much to it. | V1 | 2m | |||||
8 |
★★ Sand Beast
Sit start on the rail. Use the arete and jugs on the steep face to power up to an easy mantle finish. FA: John Newby, 2013 | V5 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★ Crocodile roll
Jump from the large, flat rock and grab the rail. Mantle up. FA: Fil Kindblad, 18 May 2022 | V3 | ||||||
10 |
Mud crab
Shimmy around the ledge to grab the rail of Crocodile Roll, mantle up. FA: Fil Kindblad, 18 May 2022 | V2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Bulging arete
Awkward start to a one move wonder | V1 | ||||||
12 |
★ Gym style
Jump onto the boulder, foot to the concretion. Dynamic co-ordination required. Very fun. FA: John Newby, Apr 2022 | V2 | ||||||
13 |
★★ Sands of Time
Very cool moves on slopers and undercling. This boulder was only a meter high 2years ago but retreating sands have currently left it exposed. FA: John Newby, Apr 2022 | V3 | ||||||
14 |
★★ Rock Monster
Sit Start. To the break then left to the juggy sidepull. Crank up and around the off width crack to finish on some jugs. Step of onto the rock behind. FA: John Newby, 2022 | V5 | ||||||
15 |
★★ Kraken awakes
Sit start. Take the obvious line of jugs through the cave to finish with hands on the jug at the lip of the roof. FA: John Newby, Apr 2022 | V4 | ||||||
16 |
★ Kraken extension
Instead of reaching into the roof, continue all the way round the break to finish bum on rock. FA: John Newby, 2013 | V4 | ||||||
17 |
Meat hang
From in the corner, hang the break and traverse out to the jugs on the end without shredding yourself. FA: John Newby, 2022 | V4 | ||||||
18 |
★★ Den of Thieves
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 20 Oct 2022 | V6 |
1.12.2. The Beach House 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.112735, 146.840532
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Beach House
FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012 | V1 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Claptrap
FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2010 | V0- | ||||||
3 |
★★ Goldaline
FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2011 | V1 | ||||||
4 |
★★ Waterslide
Start in cave at RH arête and move up to flakes, traverse left along them to a series of underclings and then top out. | V2 |
1.12.3. Selective Disclosure 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -19.106000, 146.835372
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Selective Disclosure
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 2012 | 26 | 7m |
1.12.4. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.113953, 146.865128
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ A dingo Ate your Baby
A fun little boulder problem, only two tricky moves if you have a good reach other wise there is three. After the first three moves the rest is a breeze and when your done you can cool off in the ocean. FA: Derek Voelker, 2007 | {US} V4 | 5m | |||||
2 |
Common Sense
Side pull and undercling to cripmpy pockets and mantle. Bolt on top. please correct this write up if needed. | V2 | 5m |
1.13. Endeavour Cliff 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.121170, 146.835881
summary
Approximately a 60m cliff face
description
Possibly the highest cliff face on Magnetic Island.
approach
Access via Magnetic Island National Park beside the private nature reserve.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Endeavour
Up the corner crack through technical climbing and out left up gully. Step right out onto face and up to ledge to large boulder (natural belay). FA: Luen Warneke, 24 Aug 2019 | 19 | 30m |
1.14. Huntingfield Bay 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -19.117308, 146.804753
description
Five Beach Bay is around the far side of the island and has some spectacular stuff but you need a boat to get there.
1.14.1. The Birthday Party 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.115822, 146.802452
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Guernica
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Aug 2018 | V2 | 5m | |||
2 |
★ Tupelo
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Aug 2018 | V1 | 5m |
1.14.2. Cake Flake 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.116101, 146.802737
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Cake Flake
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Aug 2018 | V0 | 4m |
1.14.3. Barnacle Bill's 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -19.117325, 146.803603
description
One of the best boulders on the island!
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Holystone
FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 20 Aug 2014 | V2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Lootin' Booty
FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 20 Aug 2014 | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Brethren of the Coast
FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 20 Aug 2014 | V0 | 3m | |||||
4 |
Slab Sandwich
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Aug 2018 | V3 | 4m | |||||
5 |
Koala Crack
Up the crack opposite Slab Sandwich. FFA: Steven Ioannou, 18 Aug 2018 | V0 |
1.15. Liver Point 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Deep water soloing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.115495, 146.790203
1.15.1. Psico Dock 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -19.115218, 146.790156
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Alkaline
Up the L arete skirting L at the top. Take care at the start. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Mar 2022 | V1 | ||||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★★ Jacob's Ladder
FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2012 | V0 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★★ Red Madder
Starting under the overhang, climb roof to face. Trend up L on scoops to top out. FFA: Luen Warneke, 25 Jan 2020 | V0 | 7m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Black Adder
Start up bottom of chimney then out right onto face to the top. FFA: Jarrah, 18 Aug 2018 | V1 | 10m |
1.15.2. The Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -19.115337, 146.790382
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Captain Baskerville
FFA: Steven Ioannou & Christopher Glastonbury, 18 Aug 2018 | 14 | 25m |