Magnetic Island Area guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Christopher Glastonbury Kaspa Snoad benjamin james eichler tyson adam burns Derek Voelker Lee Cujes Stuart Anderson Jacob Suter Jacob C Brendan Heywood

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Magnetic Island 40 in Area
- 1.1. Rocky Bay 15 in Area
  - 1.1.1. BACK PACKERS BOULDERS 0 in Area
  - 1.1.2. WHALE BOULDER 0 in Area
  - 1.1.3. THE MIDDLE BOULDERS 0 in Area
  - 1.1.4. LEFT SIDE 0 in Area
- 1.2. Alma Bay 12 in Area
- 1.3. Arthur Bay 1 in Area
- 1.4. Radical Bay 5 in Area
- 1.5. Balding Bay 6 in Area
  - 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean 6 in Area
  - 1.5.2. Middle of bay While facing ocean 0 in Area
  - 1.5.3. L) hand side of bay while facing ocean 0 in Area
- 1.6. Horseshoe Bay 1 in Area
  - 1.6.1. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder 1 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Magnetic Island 40 routes in Area

5 4 6 3 2 1

1 Rocky Bay, 2 Alma Bay, 3 Arthur Bay, 4 Radical Bay, 5 Balding Bay, 6 Horseshoe Bay

seasonality

Summary:: Boulder,?
Long/Lat: 146.832372, -19.137547
Description:: Magnetic Island, a boulderers dream. the island is covered with boulders with an un-countable number of potential problems. the perfect place to explore new areas and contribute your own first ascent.
Access Issues: inherited from Townsville: Most areas are free to access to the public, some are closed for short times during the year due to car, bike and running races and other events such as flooding, bush fires or land slides after heavy rain. but they will open again soon after.
Approach:: Catch the Farrie across to the island takes about 20 mins
Ethic: inherited from Townsville: Marking the rock at the start of the climbs used to be the norm, this is now frowned apon
History:: Most developed areas are found in the bays, but dont stop there go explore!

(keep an eye out for snakes, DEATH ADDERS are quite common on Magnetic Island)

1.1. Rocky Bay 15 routes in Area

Summary:: ?,Boulder
Long/Lat: 146.845454, -19.175070

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Brudl	27	Unknown 9m
2	Why Aren't They Naked VS Start just L of original climb. Desperate thin moves up to jugs, then traverse R to join original climb. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000	21	Unknown
3	Why Aren't They Naked	15	Unknown 16m		Nick Clow 4 years ago OS
4	Gropefest	8	Unknown 15m		Susy G 10 years ago With Uncle Greggy
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
5	Nature's Finest	22	Unknown 15m
6	Curlew Follow the crack, sounds easy enough....	23	Unknown 16m
7	Preapologised	18	Unknown 10m
8	Not Without Jase	20	Unknown 8m
9	Big Hairy Armpit	8	Unknown 8m
10	Mr Squiggle Goes Skinnydipping	18	Unknown 10m
11	Highball #1 FA: Darrin Carter and Aaron Jones,	V3	Boulder
12	American Invasion #1 FA: Matt Zimmerman,	V9	Boulder
13	American Invasion #2 FA: Matt Zimmerman,	V8	Boulder
14	American Invasion #3 FA: Matt Zimmerman,	V8	Boulder
15	Crimson Tide	23	Unknown 10m

1.1.1. BACK PACKERS BOULDERS 0 routes in Area

1.1.2. WHALE BOULDER 0 routes in Area

1.1.3. THE MIDDLE BOULDERS 0 routes in Area

1.1.4. LEFT SIDE 0 routes in Area

1.2. Alma Bay 12 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 146.870461, -19.149024

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Unnamed The R-hand side of the smooth slab facing the ocean.	V0	Boulder	Stuart Anderson 4 years ago As good as beachside bouldering gets benjamin james eichler 5 years ago can not go past boulders on the beach.
2	Reeven The middle of the smooth slab. Finger tip pockets to a technical dyno. FA: Doug Hockly,	V6	Boulder	Nick Clow 4 years ago great climbing and position! V4/5? benjamin james eichler 5 years ago second go. some tiny monos and smeary feet. prity high too. making the slopes on top exciting.
3	Nice The nice line up the L-hand side. FA: Doug Hockly,	V0-	Boulder	Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Just as good Christopher Glastonbury 7 years ago onsight
4	Slap Happy The obvious rising traverse line from L to R on the next side around. Start as far left as possible and slap along right on very open-grip holds. Finish by topping out on the boulder. Quite a bit harder when done barefoot. FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998	V1	Boulder 6m	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago great line. Christopher Glastonbury 7 years ago 1/10/03 ghost
5	Slap Direct Starts 0.5m right of the start of SH at the two-handed undercling. Pull onto wall, slap up and left to hold, crimp, then a balancy high step and pull up to jugs and top of boulder. FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998	V1	Boulder	Nick Clow 4 years ago quick morning boulder Christopher Glastonbury 9 years ago 22/9/05 repeat 1/10/03 send
6	Tang The thin, orange diagonal with a boulder to fall on. FA: Doug Hockly,	V3	Boulder
7	A Little Fervour Sitstart on pockets and up. Topout straight up or pike L (V4 and probably nicer) FA: Doug Hockly,	V5	Boulder	Christopher Glastonbury 9 years ago 22/9/05 ghost 1/10/03 ghost
8	Another The boulder behind you when you're facing Slap Happy has a mono problem and a dyno from bottom jugs to the top. FA: Doug Hockly,	V0	Boulder	Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Great mono problem
9	Crimson Tide Classic thin finger-crack in largest of several rocky outcrops on hill at south end of Alma Bay beach (right side of the bay as you look out to sea). Goes up the side facing the ocean. FA: Andrew Rule , Mark Gommers, 1995	23	Unknown 10m
10	Mantle	V2	Boulder	Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Nice and balancy to mono benjamin james eichler 5 years ago The first problem you come too. the impossibly sloppy looking mantle on end of boulder.
11	Highball Flake	V0	Boulder 5m	Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Great features climbs flake to deep monos on arête Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Great climb on interesting features not too hard but quite high
12	Crimpy Traverse	V0+	Boulder 4m	Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Sore tips Stuart Anderson 4 years ago Sore sore tips

1.3. Arthur Bay 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Unknown
Long/Lat: 146.877399, -19.128891

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		King Arthur	13	Unknown 13m

1.4. Radical Bay 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Boulder
Long/Lat: 146.874718, -19.112089

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	hueco overhang	V0	Boulder 5m	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago Great problems.
2	crimpy face	V2	Boulder 7m	tyson adam burns 7 years ago watch the rock on some of these!
3	back side	V1	Boulder 3m
4	the arete	V1	Boulder 7m
5	wall to crack	V3	Boulder 7m

1.5. Balding Bay 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Boulder
Long/Lat: 146.870214, -19.110577

1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean 6 routes in Area

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Cyclops (Sit start (s)	V5	Boulder	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago A great move of sloper to the eye of the cyclops
2	unkown (s)	V0	Boulder	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago A great wartm up.
3	Coconut (s)	V7	Boulder	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago A tree trunk like feature. Very technical.
4	Butterfly (s)	V3	Boulder	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago A cool mantle after a jugs roof move.
5	Butterfly traversre	V3	Boulder	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago a great traverse R) across the boulders lip
6	DIngo Dyno	V4	Boulder	benjamin james eichler 5 years ago in middle of boulder bad landing. Big move.

1.5.2. Middle of bay While facing ocean 0 routes in Area

1.5.3. L) hand side of bay while facing ocean 0 routes in Area

1.6. Horseshoe Bay 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Boulder
Long/Lat: 146.852231, -19.112335

1.6.1. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder 1 route in Area

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		A dingo Ate your Baby A fun little boulder problem, only two tricky moves if you have a good reach other wise there is three. After the first three moves the rest is a breeze and when your done you can cool off in the ocean. FA: Derek Voelker, 2007	V4	Boulder

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

A dingo Ate your Baby

A fun little boulder problem, only two tricky moves if you have a good reach other wise there is three. After the first three moves the rest is a breeze and when your done you can cool off in the ocean.

FA: Derek Voelker, 2007

Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
8	Big Hairy Armpit	Unknown 8m	1.1. Rocky Bay
	Gropefest	Unknown 15m	1.1. Rocky Bay
13	King Arthur	Unknown 13m	1.3. Arthur Bay
V0-	Nice	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
15	Why Aren't They Naked	Unknown 16m	1.1. Rocky Bay
V0	Another	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
	Highball Flake	Boulder 5m	1.2. Alma Bay
	Unnamed	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
	hueco overhang	Boulder 5m	1.4. Radical Bay
	unkown (s)	Boulder	1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
V0+	Crimpy Traverse	Boulder 4m	1.2. Alma Bay
18	Mr Squiggle Goes Skinnydipping	Unknown 10m	1.1. Rocky Bay
	Preapologised	Unknown 10m	1.1. Rocky Bay
V1	Slap Direct	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
	Slap Happy	Boulder 6m	1.2. Alma Bay
	back side	Boulder 3m	1.4. Radical Bay
	the arete	Boulder 7m	1.4. Radical Bay
20	Not Without Jase	Unknown 8m	1.1. Rocky Bay
V2	Mantle	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
	crimpy face	Boulder 7m	1.4. Radical Bay
21	Why Aren't They Naked VS	Unknown	1.1. Rocky Bay
22	Nature's Finest	Unknown 15m	1.1. Rocky Bay
V3	Highball #1	Boulder	1.1. Rocky Bay
	Tang	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
	wall to crack	Boulder 7m	1.4. Radical Bay
	Butterfly (s)	Boulder	1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
	Butterfly traversre	Boulder	1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
23	Crimson Tide	Unknown 10m	1.1. Rocky Bay
	Curlew	Unknown 16m	1.1. Rocky Bay
	Crimson Tide	Unknown 10m	1.2. Alma Bay
V4	DIngo Dyno	Boulder	1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
	A dingo Ate your Baby	Boulder	1.6.1. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder
V5	A Little Fervour	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
	Cyclops (Sit start (s)	Boulder	1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
V6	Reeven	Boulder	1.2. Alma Bay
27	Brudl	Unknown 9m	1.1. Rocky Bay
V7	Coconut (s)	Boulder	1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
V8	American Invasion #2	Boulder	1.1. Rocky Bay
	American Invasion #3	Boulder	1.1. Rocky Bay
V9	American Invasion #1	Boulder	1.1. Rocky Bay

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Area Guide for Magnetic Island