A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Magnetic Island 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder, Trad and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 146.832372, -19.137547

Description:

Magnetic Island, a boulderers dream. the island is covered with boulders with an un-countable number of potential problems. the perfect place to explore new areas and contribute your own first ascent.

Approach:

Catch the Farrie across to the island takes about 20 mins

History:

Most developed areas are found in the bays, but dont stop there go explore!

(keep an eye out for snakes, DEATH ADDERS are quite common on Magnetic Island)

1.1. Rocky Bay 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.845454, -19.175070

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Highball #1

FA: Darrin Carter and Aaron Jones

V3Boulder
2 * American Invasion #1

FA: Matt Zimmerman

V9Boulder
3 ** American Invasion #2

FA: Matt Zimmerman

V8Boulder
4 *** American Invasion #3

FA: Matt Zimmerman

V8Boulder

1.1.1. Central Block 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.844968, -19.175511

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Big Hairy Armpit 8Trad 8m
2 * Not Without Jase 20Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Preapologised 18Trad 10m
4 ** Curlew

Follow the crack, sounds easy enough....

23Trad 16m
5 ** Nature's Finest 22Trad 15m
6 Gropefest 8Trad 15m
7 * Why Aren't They Naked 15Trad 16m
8 Why Aren't They Naked VS

Start just L of original climb. Desperate thin moves up to jugs, then traverse R to join original climb.

FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000

21Trad
9 *** Brudl 27Trad 9m

1.1.2. Backpackers Boulders 1 route in Field

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mr Squiggle Goes Skinnydipping 18Trad 10m

1.1.3. Whale Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

1.1.4. The Middle Boulders 0 routes in Field

1.1.5. Left Side 0 routes in Field

1.2. Alma Bay 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.870461, -19.149024

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Unnamed

The R-hand side of the smooth slab facing the ocean.

V0Boulder
2 Reeven

The middle of the smooth slab. Finger tip pockets to a technical dyno.

FA: Doug Hockly

V6Boulder
3 ** Nice

The nice line up the L-hand side.

FA: Doug Hockly

V0-Boulder
4 ** Slap Happy

The obvious rising traverse line from L to R on the next side around. Start as far left as possible and slap along right on very open-grip holds. Finish by topping out on the boulder. Quite a bit harder when done barefoot.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

V1Boulder 6m
5 ** Slap Direct

Starts 0.5m right of the start of SH at the two-handed undercling. Pull onto wall, slap up and left to hold, crimp, then a balancy high step and pull up to jugs and top of boulder.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

V1Boulder
6 Tang

The thin, orange diagonal with a boulder to fall on.

FA: Doug Hockly

V3Boulder
7 A Little Fervour

Sitstart on pockets and up. Topout straight up or pike L (V4 and probably nicer)

FA: Doug Hockly

V5Boulder
8 Another

The boulder behind you when you're facing Slap Happy has a mono problem and a dyno from bottom jugs to the top.

FA: Doug Hockly

V0Boulder
9 * Mantle V2Boulder
10 * Highball Flake V0Boulder 5m
11 Crimpy Traverse V0+Boulder 4m
12 ** Crimson Tide

Classic thin finger-crack in largest of several rocky outcrops on hill at south end of Alma Bay beach (right side of the bay as you look out to sea). Goes up the side facing the ocean.

FA: Andrew Rule, Mark Gommers, 1995

23Trad 10m

1.3. Arthur Bay 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 146.877399, -19.128891

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 King Arthur

FFA: Lee Skidmore, Keith Van Den Broek, 1997

13Trad 13m

1.4. Radical Bay 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.874718, -19.112089

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * hueco overhang V0Boulder 5m
2 * crimpy face V2Boulder 7m
3 ** back side V1Boulder 3m
4 the arete V1Boulder 7m
5 * wall to crack V3Boulder 7m

1.4.1. Eagle Rock 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 146.871668, -19.109748

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eagle Rock

Dangerous, but easy. Prominent offwidth starting out of the ocean on the eastern side.

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

16DWS 15m

1.5. Balding Bay 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.870214, -19.110577

1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cyclops (Sit start (s) V5Boulder
2 * unkown (s) V0Boulder
3 *** Coconut (s) V7Boulder
4 *** Butterfly (s) V3Boulder
5 ** Butterfly traversre V3Boulder
6 DIngo Dyno V4Boulder

1.5.2. Middle of bay While facing ocean 0 routes in Area

1.5.3. L) hand side of bay while facing ocean 0 routes in Area

1.6. Horseshoe Bay 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.852231, -19.112335

1.6.1. Selective Disclosure 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 146.835361, -19.106013

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Selective Disclosure

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 2012

26DWS 7m

1.6.2. The Beach House 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.840532, -19.112735

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beach House

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

V1Boulder
2 Claptrap

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2010

V0-Boulder
3 Goldaline

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2011

V1Boulder

1.6.3. The Slab 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.840679, -19.114446

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slab City

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

V1Boulder

1.6.4. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.865128, -19.113953

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** A dingo Ate your Baby

A fun little boulder problem, only two tricky moves if you have a good reach other wise there is three. After the first three moves the rest is a breeze and when your done you can cool off in the ocean.

FA: Derek Voelker, 2007

V4Boulder

1.7. Huntingfield Bay 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.804753, -19.117308

1.7.1. Barnacle Bill's 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 146.803603, -19.117325

Description:

One of the best boulders on the island!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Holystone

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 20th Aug

V2Boulder 3m
2 Lootin' Booty

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 20th Aug

V1Boulder 3m
3 Brethren Of The Coast

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 20th Aug

V0Boulder 3m

1.8. Liver Point 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 146.790203, -19.115495

1.8.1. Psico Dock 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 146.790156, -19.115218

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jacob's Ladder

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, Steve Ioannou, 2012

16DWS 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 Big Hairy Armpit Trad 8m 1.1.1. Central Block
Gropefest Trad 15m 1.1.1. Central Block
13 King Arthur Trad 13m 1.3. Arthur Bay
V0- ** Nice Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
Claptrap Boulder 1.6.2. The Beach House
15 * Why Aren't They Naked Trad 16m 1.1.1. Central Block
V0 Another Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
* Highball Flake Boulder 5m 1.2. Alma Bay
* Unnamed Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
* hueco overhang Boulder 5m 1.4. Radical Bay
* unkown (s) Boulder 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
Brethren Of The Coast Boulder 3m 1.7.1. Barnacle Bill's
16 Eagle Rock DWS 15m 1.4.1. Eagle Rock
Jacob's Ladder DWS 3m 1.8.1. Psico Dock
V0+ Crimpy Traverse Boulder 4m 1.2. Alma Bay
18 Preapologised Trad 10m 1.1.1. Central Block
Mr Squiggle Goes Skinnydipping Trad 10m 1.1.2. Backpackers Boulders
V1 ** Slap Direct Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
** Slap Happy Boulder 6m 1.2. Alma Bay
** back side Boulder 3m 1.4. Radical Bay
the arete Boulder 7m 1.4. Radical Bay
Beach House Boulder 1.6.2. The Beach House
Goldaline Boulder 1.6.2. The Beach House
Slab City Boulder 1.6.3. The Slab
Lootin' Booty Boulder 3m 1.7.1. Barnacle Bill's
20 * Not Without Jase Trad 8m 1.1.1. Central Block
V2 * Mantle Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
* crimpy face Boulder 7m 1.4. Radical Bay
Holystone Boulder 3m 1.7.1. Barnacle Bill's
21 Why Aren't They Naked VS Trad 1.1.1. Central Block
22 ** Nature's Finest Trad 15m 1.1.1. Central Block
V3 *** Highball #1 Boulder 1.1. Rocky Bay
Tang Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
* wall to crack Boulder 7m 1.4. Radical Bay
*** Butterfly (s) Boulder 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
** Butterfly traversre Boulder 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
23 ** Curlew Trad 16m 1.1.1. Central Block
** Crimson Tide Trad 10m 1.2. Alma Bay
V4 DIngo Dyno Boulder 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
*** A dingo Ate your Baby Boulder 1.6.4. Common Sense Was An Uncommon Virtue Boulder
V5 A Little Fervour Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
* Cyclops (Sit start (s) Boulder 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
26 Selective Disclosure DWS 7m 1.6.1. Selective Disclosure
V6 Reeven Boulder 1.2. Alma Bay
27 *** Brudl Trad 9m 1.1.1. Central Block
V7 *** Coconut (s) Boulder 1.5.1. R) hand side of bay while facing ocean
V8 ** American Invasion #2 Boulder 1.1. Rocky Bay
*** American Invasion #3 Boulder 1.1. Rocky Bay
V9 * American Invasion #1 Boulder 1.1. Rocky Bay