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Pallarenda Boulders

  • Grades: AU
  • Approach time: 10mins
  • Ascents: 48

Summary

Boulders on the beach!

Description

Two stacks of sea side boulders. Plenty of loose holds in amongst the solid ones, due to salt expanding and contracting in the cracks, so pull off the loose holds and have fun.

Access issues

Cape Pallarenda Conservation Park gates are open 6.30 am to 6.30 pm daily. - Gates open automatically after hours to let you out of the park.

Approach

Follow Cape Pallarenda Road until you have entered the Cape Pallarenda Conservation Park. Park your car near a small bridge and follow track past the bunkers to Shelly Cove, the next bay over. The boulders are visible from the nearby shrub at the end of the track. Keep the sea in view on your right and you can't get lost.

Where to stay

NO CAMPING WITHIN THE PARK

Ethic

  • Take all rubbish home with you
  • Be aware of and respect all wildlife
  • Keep to trails where possible

History

View historical timeline

Started being developed by - Bryan Beattie & Kaspa Snoad in 2011

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the left side aerate then top out.

Set by Jessica Hutch, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Jessica Hutch, 29 Dec 2012

Start on cheat stone with both hands in crescent shape crack. Move your feet up onto rock and then start moving right. Top out in gap with slopers.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, 26 Dec 2012

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 26 Dec 2012

Found at the first stack of boulders. Sit start at bottom of the crack, reach up along the crack with left hand, reach right hand to crimp on face of boulder and then pop up to sloping hold in the middle of the gap. Top out through gap.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, Jul 2011

FA: Kaspa Snoad, Jul 2011

"Open Project" Sit start, fist jam and crimper, reach up to layback block then move up and left onto the face of the boulder; From here follow the horizontal crack up and top out in the gap.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, 2011

Sit start with fist jam and crimp grip, twist up to undercling layback, reach right hand up to arete, layback then reach to left hand grip out on face, then follow arete up to top out.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, Jul 2011

FA: Kaspa Snoad, Jul 2011

Starts 2m left of "Mud Wasp". Begin with a sit start under the overhang with feet on small boulder and a hand match on crimpy ledge. Lift off the ground and reach up to the left for sharp hold and swing left foot out to brace against rock. Toe hook lip of boulder with right then mantle to top out.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 12 Jan 2013

Standing start in dihedral; move up using the obvious holds and when you have reached the horizontal crack, move left and then top out at end of crack.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

Stars at "Mud Wasp" move straight up with obvious holds until top out.

Set by Marshall Moore, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Marshall Moore, 29 Dec 2012

Nice and obvious with a standing start and slopers throughout. Located 1m left of "Frogger".

Set by Jessica Hutch, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Jesica Hutch, 29 Dec 2012

Standing start with both hands palm down in horizontal crack, step feet up onto the rock and extend up to reach a large sloper, then top out.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

Found on top of the second set of boulders. Standing start with both hands on juggy ledge, lift feet up onto foothold on the overhang, reach high and to the right for juggy hand hold, reach left for nice sloper (swing if you're short), then high step with right foot and top out. BAD LANDING... Be sure to have plenty of crash pads and a good spotter or two.

Set by Kaspa Snoad & Marshall Moore, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Kaspa Snoad & Marshall Moore, 29 Dec 2012

Found on top of the second set of boulders. A super easy problem with a nice view at the top.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 29 Dec 2012

Found at the end of the walking track that leads to the beach (Shelly Cove) is a large set of boulders about 20 meters in to the bush. This problem is located on the far right hand side, next to dead tree with branches cut off. Standing start with a small crimp and an inverted side pull, step up into dihedral and mantle with left hand, reach for crescent shape hold, layback to right hand jug, traverse right half a meter and then top out with juggy mantle.

Set by Kaspa Snoad, Jul 2011

FA: Kaspa Snoad, Jul 2011

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