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Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate yor car may be moved

During the year the car club holds races on the mountian road. during this time road access is closed.

Approach

The Playground is the first area you get to when walking down the track from the car park. After the five minute walk down the track, you'll arrive at the middle top of the cliff. Access the base of the cliff by walking down either L or R down the easy track. The Playground has the highest concentration of routes on Mt Stuart, and almost every square metre of it has been climbed upon at some time. Many routes are initialled at the base in paint, but thankfully this practice is now frowned upon. Routes will be described from L to R.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

-Take all rubbish home with you. -Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you

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Routes

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Grade Route

A small but demanding climb follow the crack up the dihedral past two Carrots, then start moving to the left onto slopers then top out. (can be top roped of double bolts at top of climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1991

Obvious finger crack in middle of the wall. Move straight up, then to the left to finish on ledge. (can be Toproped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1990

Start at "Twister" move up finger crack to ledge (using trad pro), then step out and around arete then climb diagonally up and right past two carrots then to "Wimps in the Gym's" Last fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Matthew Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

Starts in corner move up then traverse left before roof to carrot on the arete then up past two more carrots then left to the fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Matthew Swait, 1998

Start at "Twister" (use a side runner in "T" crack for pro) move diagonally up and right to the arete and carrot finishes at horizontal crack. (Can be top roped of double bolts above climb)

FFA: Andrew Doubleday, 1994

Start on "Wimps in the Gym" to the roof then follow the crack through roof and up the face to finish. Small pro useful on the top section. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1991

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Allen McGill, Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1991

Start on "Fist Full of Ants" (use trad pro in crack) up to the roof then climb to the right past the roof onto face, past two carrots then finishing on "Fist Full of Ants" last fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1991

Start on "Fist Full of Ants"and move right to the arete (using trad pro) then up through two small roofs then up finger flake on the right past 3 carrots to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson &Matthew Swait, 1991

Start up Eye Of The Tiger until about 3.5m below the obvious chockstone and at an undercling flake/pockets in the L wall. Make committing moves L and follow the flake system (small wires) to join the final moves of Two Hands Are Better Than One at the last BR on that route.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

Start in the obvious corner and climb straight up crack with good moves. Once in the cave reach out to the right to the "Eye" hold then up to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Owen Richmond, 1991

One of the best crack routes on the 'Playground'.

Start: The obvious crack 2m R of "Eye of the Tiger" good placements for "pro" throughout. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FA: Scott Johnson, 1991

Included here because it is technically the hardest route on Mt Stuart. Up the wall a few metres R of SP through the biggest section of roof and straight up. Numerous FH's

FA: Andrew Doubleday & Anthony Timms, 1996

Very sustained! Take RP's for this particularly fine thin crack 5m R of SP. Muscle up the progressively harder seam to bulge (crux). After getting through this, the last section of seam protected by a #1 RP makes for an interesting finish. Originally led with a broken finger. Mike Myres (who onsighted this) reckons it would be 21 if it was at Nowra, but I'd like to see the Nowra bumpy boys try to place the gear

FA: Scott Johnson & Matthew Swait, 1991

FA: Nathan bolton & Dan Radford

Worth doing. Starts around the corner, 8m R of TFT. Easily up face to BR below base of bottomless corner. Layback up corner to below small roof, then slap around R (crux) and pull up to ledge. Up short crack and go for a walk in the "greenhouse" before finishing up the nice wide cracks in the corner. Has seen some huge groundfalls from the corner.

FA: Scott Johnson, Anthony Timms & Matthew Swait, 1991

One of the best beginner routes here. It starts about 12m down and R of GE at the base of the huge detached block. Up the nice crack, then traverse L to arête (crux) and up to ledge passing a FH. Now climb ramp (FH) and exit up mini corner to belay seat.

FA: Mark Gommers & Raymond Stewart, 1994

A very good route, but a scary lead on account of poor bolting. Originally led in the rain, hence the name. Starts where the R-hand side of the big block meets the main wall (chimney), about 10m up and R of HW. Straight up to small sloping ledge (BR) then continue staying just R of the overhanging bulge passing two more BR's.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Another beginner classic. Starts 4m R of SWW in the deep black corner. Follow this corner crack to top of pedestal. Climb up into the three-sided lift shaft and fill your pants as the massive boulder moves. Now layback your way up the R-facing corner to glory. Perfect tree belay

FA: Mick Pezet & Rob Smythe, 1985

A slabby adventure. Start as for H to the pedestal. Step across the void to the R (FH) and crank up to the slab (crux). Now delicately up the slab passing two more FH's

FA: Mark Gommers & John Blayke, 1992

FA: Doug Hockly

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

One of the cliff classics and the epitome of Mt Stuart climbing. If the bottom half was like the top, it would be three stars. Up the grungy corner (14) 3m R of BGMRTF to ledge. From here, boldly blast straight up the 10m face passing three FH's with the crux at the third FH to the top.

FA: Mark Gommers & Scott Fry, 1991

FA: Nathan Bolton

FA: Andrew Rule

starts at 'under the cling' and finishes up 'cannonball'. you might want to breakit into a couple of pitches to reduce rope drag.

Start at the marked "F" and move up corner to ledge, then take flaked groove on the left to finish.

FA: Mark Gommers, 1996

FFA: Douglas Hockly &Andrew Doubleday, 1998

A yardstick 16 and a great lead at the grade. Starts at the black juggy face 4m R of "Under The Cling". Climb up this black wall with great friction (no pro) to ledge (good gear). Walk up ledge to V-corner behind, then up the this short but technical corner with great gear to the top. Dave Hall 10/83. By Lee Skidmore, November 1999

FFA: Dave Hall, 1983

Start at the marked "MJ" move straight up to ledge then take the small face in between the two dihedrals and move straight up to top.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Start at the marked "MJ" move straight up to ledge then take the dihedral with the flared chimney start on the right, move up dihedral to finish

FFA: Owen Richmond, 1983

Start at the marked "S" and go left up the poxy corner to the ledge, then move to the right and take the dihedral above the marked "S" to the top.

FFA: Dave Hall & Owen Richmond, 1983

Dont be a sook and use the poxy corner with the tree in iton the left. Start directly at the marked "S" and move straight up the small crack reach for shallow pockets to move up. Then layback off bottom pocket to reach up left and grab small hold in verticle crack then move up into "Sea Wasp" dihedral crack on jugs.

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2013

Start at the marked "CP" move up past the small roof, traverse right slightly then follow finger crack to the top passing the bolt located at the crux. (Harder than it looks)

FFA: Matthew Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

Start in "Drainpipe" and follow crack diagonally up and to the left.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 1996

The first crack you will see when entering the playground from the left end (while facing seawards) very easy, a good route for beginers to pratice trad climbing.

FFA: T. McOwan & Owan Richmond, 1982

Activity

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