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Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate yor car may be moved

During the year the car club holds races on the mountian road. during this time road access is closed.

Approach

The Playground is the first area you get to when walking down the track from the car park. After the five minute walk down the track, you'll arrive at the middle top of the cliff. Access the base of the cliff by walking down either L or R down the easy track. The Playground has the highest concentration of routes on Mt Stuart, and almost every square metre of it has been climbed upon at some time. Many routes are initialled at the base in paint, but thankfully this practice is now frowned upon. Routes will be described from L to R.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

-Take all rubbish home with you. -Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A small but demanding climb follow the crack up the dihedral past two Carrots, then start moving to the left onto slopers then top out. (can be top roped of double bolts at top of climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1991

Obvious finger crack in middle of the wall. Move straight up, then to the left to finish on ledge. (can be Toproped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1990

Start at "Twister" move up finger crack to ledge (using trad pro), then step out and around arete then climb diagonally up and right past two carrots then to "Wimps in the Gym's" Last fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Matthew Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

Starts in corner move up then traverse left before roof to carrot on the arete then up past two more carrots then left to the fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Matthew Swait, 1998

Start at "Twister" (use a side runner in "T" crack for pro) move diagonally up and right to the arete and carrot finishes at horizontal crack. (Can be top roped of double bolts above climb)

FFA: Andrew Doubleday, 1994

Start on "Wimps in the Gym" to the roof then follow the crack through roof and up the face to finish. Small pro useful on the top section. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1991

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Allen McGill, Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1991

Start on "Fist Full of Ants" (use trad pro in crack) up to the roof then climb to the right past the roof onto face, past two carrots then finishing on "Fist Full of Ants" last fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1991

Start on "Fist Full of Ants"and move right to the arete (using trad pro) then up through two small roofs then up finger flake on the right past 3 carrots to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Scott Johnson &Matthew Swait, 1991

Start up Eye Of The Tiger until about 3.5m below the obvious chockstone and at an undercling flake/pockets in the L wall. Make committing moves L and follow the flake system (small wires) to join the final moves of Two Hands Are Better Than One at the last BR on that route.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

Start in the obvious corner and climb straight up crack with good moves. Once in the cave reach out to the right to the "Eye" hold then up to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Owen Richmond, 1991

One of the best crack routes on the 'Playground'.

Start: The obvious crack 2m R of "Eye of the Tiger" good placements for "pro" throughout. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FA: Scott Johnson, 1991

Pleasant face climbing. Start 4m R of SP below a FH and L of a thin seam. Arc L past 3 bolts to join the original.

FA: Mark Gommers & Michael Dielenberg, 1993

For a while the hardest route on Mt Stuart. Up the wall a few metres R of SP through the biggest section of roof and straight up. Numerous FH's

FA: Andrew Doubleday & Anthony Timms, 1996

Quality face climbing. Up IYFG to its 3rd bolt,traverse R and up seam to a break for Cams. Keep moving R and up the classic face to finish. A small friend or cam is handy for the top out.

FA: Mark Gommers, 1993

Very sustained! Take RP's for this particularly fine thin crack 5m R of SP. Muscle up the progressively harder seam to bulge (crux). After getting through this, the last section of seam protected by a #1 RP makes for an interesting finish. Originally led with a broken finger. Mike Myres (who onsighted this) reckons it would be 21 if it was at Nowra, but I'd like to see the Nowra bumpy boys try to place the gear

FA: Scott Johnson & Matthew Swait, 1991

Steep and technical on good rock. Start at the small corner, up and R to gear, climb L of the FHs to join SoaD at the Cam break. At the ledge step L and up the steep jamb crack.

FA: Mark Gommmers & Michael Dielenberg, 1992

FFA: Nathan Bolton & Andrew Doubleday, 1998

Interesting face climbing, take RPs and take care of the little blocky hold in the middle which is waiting to come off. Up the arete R of SitW starting of the ledge on the R. swing L around the arete to finish up the top half of SoaD.

FA: Scott Johson & Suzzanne Dyer, 1991

A good top section. Start up the diagonal crack R of the corner, take this to the ledge, step R and up the thin finger crack to the ledge.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Two hard moves. Up the face past a carrot to the corner, layback to the roof and traverse L to double bolts and the crux. The direct start up the hanging arete with one carrot is an open project which will be about 27.

FA: Allan MacGill & Scott Johnson, 1991

FA: Nathan bolton & Dan Radford

Worth doing. Starts around the corner, 8m R of TFT. Easily up face to BR below base of bottomless corner. Layback up corner to below small roof, then slap around R (crux) and pull up to ledge. Up short crack and go for a walk in the "greenhouse" before finishing up the nice wide cracks in the corner. Has seen some huge groundfalls from the corner.

FA: Scott Johnson, Anthony Timms & Matthew Swait, 1991

A top rope problem up the face R of TGE

FA: Mark Gommers & Raymond Stuart, 1994

6m R of TGE. Follow the obvious crack leaning L to the ledge. Traverse2m L up the crack to another ledge. Up the large crack above. Solid for the grade ?

FA: Shane Moy & Andre Obradovic, 1992

A mega pump. 10 R of TGE, at the base of the corner, at the boulder choked chimney. Straight up to the rooflet and bolt ( take care and RPs) straight up past another carrot and cruxy bulge to intersect the diagonal crack where it goes vertical. Up the balancy crack.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

The traverse is! Very good. Start as for BOMF, but clip the bolt R of BOMFs 1st bolt. Keep trending R to more carrots and natural gear, traverse R to more carrots and natural gear, traverse L above a bulge to the flake near the top. There is a little finish past a bolt onthe wall to the R but the climb naturally ends at the ledge with the rings and the a finish is taken up by the next route.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

When too much fun is too much. A bouldery start at the R of the black streak to good holds, L past the 2nd bolt and R after the 3rd into the luminous lichen and a sequential crux L past the L the 4th and 5th bolt to finish up the face R of TMFs last bolt which you can clip if you want. You can also do this asa variant finish to TMF, joining it at AFs 2nd bolt.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 1998

Thin fun with a hairy mantle above the crux and a protruding carrot. Start at the flake and pocket R of the bush. Up and L and up and L, mantle and finish up the corner past small cams and wires.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

One of the best beginner routes here. It starts about 12m down and R of GE at the base of the huge detached block. Up the nice crack, then traverse L to arête (crux) and up to ledge passing a FH. Now climb ramp (FH) and exit up mini corner to belay seat and lower off.

FA: Mark Gommers & Raymond Stewart, 1994

Start 3m L of HW and join it at the ledge.

FA: Mark Gommers & Anthony Tims, 1994

Up HW to the FH then out R up the steep stuff ( cam). Up past anothe FH and up welcome wire.

FA: Mark Gommers & Anthony Timms, 1994

Short and sweet. The short face with 3FHs up hill in the gully. L of the chimney and starts in the little corner on the L. DRBB lower off now on side of pinnacle for this route.

FA: Dan Ellis & Peter Kingsbury, 1995

A very good route, but a scary lead on account of poor bolting. Originally led in the rain, hence the name. Starts where the R-hand side of the big block meets the main wall (chimney), about 10m up and R of HW. Straight up to small sloping ledge (BR) then continue staying just R of the overhanging bulge passing two more BR's.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Insecure climbing up the arete R of SWW. Start up HVS and lean out and clip the first bolt, step down and L then up the face and through the small roof.

FA: steve baskerville & John shaw, 1999

Start up the deep black v corner to the top of the pillar, up into the V and take the L hand wide line.

FA: T.Moore, 1985

Another beginner classic. Starts 4m R of SWW in the deep black corner. Follow this corner crack to top of pedestal. Climb up into the three-sided lift shaft and fill your pants as the massive boulder moves. Now layback your way up the R-facing corner to glory. Perfect tree belay

FA: Mick Pezet & Rob Smythe, 1985

The way to do Holiday. The shallow corner up the L hand side of the pedestal/flake. Take a sling for the small chockstone.

FA: Glen Myors & Mark Boston, 1992

An exciting lead. Start as for H but go straight up the deep dark line (GA) to the chockstones, step L onto the arete and take it to the top.

FA: Matthew Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

Looks Gruesome. Start as for for H but go straight up the ugly offwidth past the chockstones.

FA: Mark Gommers & John Blake, 1992

A slabby adventure. Start as for H to the pedestal. Step across the void to the R (FH) and crank up to the slab (crux). Now delicately up the slab passing two more FH's

FA: Mark Gommers & John Blayke, 1992

As for S but keep traversing R to the thin crack and up it.

FA: Mark Gommers & John Blake, 1992

The thin crack and arete R of GA to join S at the top. Has this actually been led? Andrew Doubleday TR route.

FA: Andrew Doubleday, 1998

Start as GISS then trend left at the FH half way up

FFA: Glen Hayford, 24 Jun

Slightly over hanging face climb on thin often chossy crimps. Two bolts and anchors added Jan2018 for top half.

FA: Doug Hockly

FFA: Glen Hayford, 8 Apr

Open project with RBs R of GISS bolted n many years ago by Doug Hockley

Set by Douglas Hockley

A great climb with a rare roof, starts around the corner. Initially half climbed by the route Excalibur, which climbed the roof on Aid and finished up P&S. Up the crackline past a 3.5 friend and a powerful move at the lip, then slightly L to a FH on the bulge. Climb R of this to a excellent runout finish. May be harder after a major hold broke of in the 90s

FA: Rob Smyth & paul Hayford, 1986

FFA: Andrew Doubleday, 1996

4m R of A. The 1st 5m was originally known as First Blood (Rob Smythe 10/86) and a nasty sandbag at (15) with little gear down low. Two grounfalls saw people injured by a sharp stump that is now gone. P$S does this start then goes L up the crack, over a bulge past a bolt. Exit up the small wall and up the ramp, or try the flake with a bolt on the R if you feel strong.

FA: Allan MacGill & Matthe Swait, 1989

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Nice offwidth if you like that stuff. Start up BGMRTF, up the overhanging offwidth and onwards

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

The face climbing escape route. Easier than the original. Climb PB to halfway up the offwidth (where it gets rough), make 2 moves L along the thin horizontal and up. Finish up the flake L of the bolt.

FA: Douglas Hockley & Ingrid Ward, 1999

Another variant. Up P to the base off the offwidth, traverse L around the arete and climb the face R of BGMRTF.

FA: ndre Obradovic, 1992

The name comes from early footage of the route, which is the funniest climbing video ever seen. The hard looking arete above P with 4FHs and another on the continuation above. Start 1.5m L of P off the block.

FA: Andrew Doubleday

FFA: Nathan Bolton & Kris Bourke, 1999

The route you wouldn't wish on your worst enemy. The wide crack and corner.

FA: Dave Hall & Owen Richmond, 1982

Up the corner to the ledge, face just R of the corner past three carrots.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

One of the cliff classics and the epitome of Mt Stuart climbing. If the bottom half was like the top, it would be three stars. Up the grungy corner (14) 3m R of BGMRTF to ledge. From here, boldly blast straight up the 10m face passing three FH's with the crux at the third FH to the top.

FA: Allan McGill & Matthew Swait, 1989

FFA: Mark Gommers & Scott Fry, 1991

As for JB to the 1st bolt, climbing the face just R of the arete past 4 more bolts to a good finish.

FA: Matthew Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

A bouldery direct start to any of the 3 previous routes. Up to the 1st bolt, over the roof and diagonally past it. Dont fall clipping the 2nd bolt as you may hit the tree.

FA: Matthe Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

Fine climbing up an overhanging face crack. Good gear. Up the crack till it ends, diagonally R and immediately back L into the line and on. Alternatively, from where the crack ends go L to a shake on the arete, up it for a few moves then traverse back R into the line

FA: Mark Gommers & Michael Dielenberg TR, 1992

FFA: Andrew Doubleday, 1995

Fantastic climbing up the corner and it’s R arete, finishing R around the roof. Several FHs.

FA: Nathan Bolton, Chris Bourke & Alexander Turnbull, 1999

Astern thin crack, often wet after rain. Start directly below the crack, a step down from the main ledge.

FA: Scott Johnson, 1991

The flared offwidth corner crack. Wide at the top and loose at the bottom.

FA: Paul Hayford, W.Rawlings & Mick Pezet, 1986

Up E, L along the hand traverse, mantle and traverse all the way L to the top of Majorie.

FA: Dave Hall & Owen Richmond, 1982

Straight up into the traverse and up past the bolts.

Excellent thin wall with the crux at the top. Can be done with or with out bridging at the start.

FA: Scott Johnson & Aiden Forde, 1991

Start up E, R after the 1st bolt and up past several FHs. Bridge R at the first bolt and take some RPs for between the bolts if you like.

FA: Andrew Doubleday & Nathan Bolton, 1998

The tight chimney.

FA: Owen Richmond & Dave Hall, 1982

Okay face climbing but contrived. Starts nearthe bottom of the gully down R of CR. Leans across and clip the FH, up past a medium cam, and 3FHs without bridging across to Cr. Run out to clip the third FH.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Looks good but isn’t. Clip the FH with the stick and wrestle up past the tree and up merging into A.

FA: Andrew Doubleday, Anthony Timms & Andrew Everson, 1996

The crack with the ugly wide section at the top

FA: Paul Hayford, W.Rawlings & Mick Pezet, 1986

On the tiny wall below YL. The crack immediately below YL

FA: Mick Pezet, W.Rawlings & F.Miles, 1986

On the tiny wall below YL. The V chimney 2m R of Stretch.

FA: W.Rawlings, 1986

A fairly serious lead particularly at the top. Start up YL or A if you want. Take the thin diagonal, moving R to a juggy flake and up to finish. Take RPs and cams to #3.

FA: Jon Pearson & Dan Ellis, 1997

FA: Nathan Bolton

An airy face with some lovely flakes. There is a bolt on the lip of the first overhang. R though this then L to another bolt, up to the hole and ledge. Follow the carrots up the arete to finish L up the crack past a bolt. Up and R at the ledge to the thin crack to the finish.

FA: Scott Johnson & Matthew Swait, 1991

Start 1m right of Warlock. Finishes above the obvious cave. Boulder on a rope, maybe 25?

FFA: Glen Hayford, 8 Jul

Link from Par 3 into warlock, 2 big dynos on terrible small holds..

Set by Glen Hayford, 8 Jul

Pump then, technical. Up the black diagonal crack (can be dirty), to steep flakes L of the corner. Clip the carrot over the lip, L then R to the next bolt, a thinly traverse L to the black streak. At the ledge finish just to the L of the capping stone.

FA: Scott Johnson & Timmy the Dog, 1991

Brilliant. Up BM to its 2nd bolt then straight up past the FHs. Traverse L at the steepness and finish as for BM. Has been done direct also.

FA: Andrew Doubleday, Joe Kippax & Mark Gommers, 1994

The big R hand corner, which is not well protected to start ( take a very small cam - 0 Camalot X3 works a treat)

FA: T.McOwan, Dave Hall & anthony Tims, 1982

A good variation to CB, from the ledge at half height, take the flake on the R to the thin horizontal, traverse back along this to CB

FA: Matthew Swait, Allan MacGillg & Allan MacGill, 1982

A rather serious Direct Finish to SF, from the thin horizontal, go direct to the top. Take some small RPs.

FA: Andrew Doubleday & ME, 1998

Continually interesting face and crack climbing that is not well protected at the start. Up the light coloured face to the diagonal crack (or start up the diagonal of ZZ) diagonal L to a small cam then diagonally R to the crack. Up this to the top, #2.5-3 cam at the top.

FA: Brian Springnell & Alan MacGill, 1989

FFA: Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1990

Take small wires, Zig L up the groove, then R up to the ledge. Up the nice wall on the R and then step R at the top.

FA: Ron Jansen, Allan MacGill & Ron Jansen, 1989

A good thin move past the FHs

FA: Mark Gommers

Up the L side of the vague arete, L before the fixed hanger to ZZ. Finish up ZZ, take care with the gear.

FA: Scott Johnson, Suzanne Dyer & Allan MacGill, 1991

The crack line, wide at the top.

FA: Shane Stephensen & Glen Myors, 1992

Ark L from the initials to finish up S.

starts at 'under the cling' and finishes up 'cannonball'. you might want to breakit into a couple of pitches to reduce rope drag.

Good climbingnin a direct line R of LFI, and through UTC. One FH, finish as for LFI or better and safer up S.

FA: Mark Gommers, 1994

Start at the marked "F" and move up corner to ledge, then take flaked groove on the left to finish.

FA: Mark Gommers, 1996

FFA: Douglas Hockly &Andrew Doubleday, 1998

A yardstick 16 and a great lead at the grade. Starts at the black juggy face 4m R of "Under The Cling". Climb up this black wall with great friction (no pro) to ledge (good gear). Walk up ledge to V-corner behind, then up the this short but technical corner with great gear to the top. Dave Hall 10/83. By Lee Skidmore, November 1999

FFA: Dave Hall, 1983

Start at the marked "MJ" move straight up to ledge then take the small face in between the two dihedrals and move straight up to top.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Start at the marked "MJ" move straight up to ledge then take the dihedral with the flared chimney start on the right, move up dihedral to finish

FFA: Owen Richmond, 1983

Start at the marked "S" and go left up the poxy corner to the ledge, then move to the right and take the dihedral above the marked "S" to the top.

FFA: Dave Hall & Owen Richmond, 1983

Dont be a sook and use the poxy corner with the tree in iton the left. Start directly at the marked "S" and move straight up the small crack reach for shallow pockets to move up. Then layback off bottom pocket to reach up left and grab small hold in verticle crack then move up into "Sea Wasp" dihedral crack on jugs.

FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2 Feb 2013

Start at the marked "CP" move up past the small roof, traverse right slightly then follow finger crack to the top passing the bolt located at the crux. (Harder than it looks)

FFA: Matthew Swait & Scott Johnson, 1991

Start in "Drainpipe" and follow crack diagonally up and to the left.

FFA: Lee Skidmore, 1996

The first crack you will see when entering the playground from the left end (while facing seawards) very easy, a good route for beginers to pratice trad climbing.

FFA: T. McOwan & Owan Richmond, 1982

Activity

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