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Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate yor car may be moved

During the year the car club holds races on the mountian road. during this time road access is closed.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

-Take all rubbish home with you. -Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you


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Grade Route
16 * Pleasure Unit Trad 65m 3

Pleasure Unit 65m 16 The first route done on the Main Faces. Again, this route is only included because you can rap down it - it's not particularly enjoyable. It's the obvious steep black V-corner in the prominent gully and can be seen from the highway. 1) 25m From the ground, climb the wide black crack (slightly tricky) to a tree and move L onto the slab. Pass the slab and into the crack again, belaying at a comfortable point. 2) 20m (crux) Continue up the V-corner which gets progressively harder to the large ledge with tree. 3) 20m Finish up the fat crack full of big chockstones. Mick Pezet 10/84.

To get to Pleasure Unit's top rap station from the Playground, instead of wandering down the L (looking seaward) Playground descent track, follow the vague walking track L for about 30m (look for white survey peg). Now scramble R down the fairly obvious gully for about 30m to the rap station at the top of Pleasure Unit. Unfortunately, this rap station setup is unsafe, so you must use the backup bolt provided (this means leaving gear at the top).

24 Sustenance Trad 65m
22 *** Beam Me Up Scotty Trad 80m

"Mega classic featuring radical exposure and positions" - Scott Johnson's 1992 guide. Starts at the crack 3m R of PU (often vegetated). 1) 25m (18) Up the slabby crack (may be vegetated) to dirty ledge. Move R into the cleaner twin cracks (BR) and up to the sloping ledge and DBB. 2) 25m (22) Head up the face with growing concern to the intimidating V-funnel (2 BR's). Take a few deep breaths and blast up this where some very clever moves will see you to a small ledge on the R (DBB). 3) (crux) Silly traverse directly R (BR) around the corner from the DBB to gain the base of the overhung corner. Climb this until it fades away (BR) to rest at the shark's fin then move R (BR) onto the perfect stone of the exposed arête (best positions ever!) passing 3 BR's to the DBB. Scott Johnson, Aiden Forde 11/91.

23 *** Cosmic Messenger Trad 80m

FA: Nathan Bolton

23 ** Pumping Iron Trad 24m
15 Feral Crack Trad 24m
18 Into the Night Trad 40m
17 *** Alien Trad 40m

FA: Nathan Bolton

24 *** From Above Trad 40m

FA: Nathan Bolton / Mark Newell

21 *** Close Encounters Trad 40m

FA: Nathan Bolton, Jason Selman, Cuan Petheram & Daniel Radford


Sustained slabbing. Starts at ground level about 10m R of Cosmic Messenger at base of seam with black FH at 5m. 1) 16m (18) Climbs the sustained slab and seam protected by bolt and many small wires to chains (not visible from ground). 2) 22m (crux) From chains, traverse 3m R and down into big corner crack (which is Into The Night - 17/18). Up this for 8m to ledge, then step R towards arête and climb slab protected by two FH's and small wires to chains. Double rope rap to the ground. Lee Skidmore, Jason Shaw, Steve Baskerville, Philippa Newton 8 & 9/98.

21 ** Bird of Prey Trad 80m


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