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Access issues inherited from Townsville

Most areas are free to access to the public, some are closed for short times during the year due to car, bike and running races and other events such as flooding, bush fires or land slides after heavy rain. but they will open again soon after.

Ethic inherited from Townsville

Marking the rock at the start of the climbs used to be the norm, this is now frowned apon

Routes

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Grade Route

Around the corner from Transcontinental. A rising line trending L with a high crux and steep finish.

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Beric, 2012

Ambiguous start R of OMF.

  1. (30m 20) Stick clip. 2nd bolt (crux) and up to easier ground. Trend L, then R to steep corner at large block. over block to slab and belay on ledge.

  2. (50m 23) Up through orange bowl and 4 bolts. Up headwall on gear, then through scoops and 2 more bolts. Up slab to L facing chimney and ledge. Same escape as MA

FFA: Chris Beric/Chris Glastonbury, 2009

Start as for WTTJ then move R and follow the pillar system to join 2nd pitch of MA.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Long and Interesting excursion, take 16 draws and a few slings. Confident seconder recommended due to traversing nature of the route.

  1. 35m 19. Start up AA.

  2. 35m 16. Traverse R forever on spaced bolts to semi hanging belay.

  3. 30m 21. up orange face and R around bulge (crux) to ledge. Up and hard R to belay on sloping ledge.

  4. 30m 17. Diagonally up and R toward ledge. continue further R to belay over the void.

  5. 25m 19. a few hard moves to gain the superb white face. up this to spacious ledge.

  6. 30m 18. Tricky bottomless start up the groove then carefully run it out over ledge. climb towards nose feature and finish up exposed arete. Descent: 4x 30m raps straight down. Be wary of rope placement on 2nd and 3rd raps as there are a couple of rope jamming cracks.

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Glenn Hayford, 2013

FFA: Steven Ioannou, 2017

FFA: Chris Glastonbury (1) & Steve Ioannou (2), 2014

Starts below the corner/Roof 10m R of AA. Sustained moves from the ground to a powerful crux over the bulge (watch out for boulder below). Move R and up to a straightforward finish.

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2013

Starts just before the hyper bowl just after the large boulder – look for a stainless rivet at head height. Take 1 bracket.

  1. 15m (17) Up past rivet into small corner and gear. Move left along ledge to gain slick diagonal crack. Follow this to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Follow the loose but easy buttress on the left side of the ledge to gain steep face. Climb through the sustained face passing 3 FHs and up to chains on ledge. Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker 1.7.03

  3. 45m (19) From the chains traverse right and up to FH. Technical moves past this (crux) to ledge with weakness on left side. Follow this tending left to sloping black ledge. Continue up cracks to the right of this ledge until you reach a large corner/chimney. Now up this to large ledge and tree belay. Escape via hidden chains below large tree at southern end of ledge. 2 x 35m raps to the ground. Rick Wittkopp, Mark Gommers 2.7.03

FA: p1&2: Mark Gommers, Nathan Bolton, Adam Hardaker p3: Rik Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

FFA: Rick Wittkopp & Mark Gommers, 2003

FFA: Chris Glastonbury (1) & Steven Ioannou (2), 2013

Start up 3rd pitch of MA then trend R over buldge past 5 bolts into Terra Nullius. Up orange corner to steep tricky finish on great rock.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Straight up large orange corner all the way to roof.

FFA: Steve Ioannou/Chris Glastonbury, 2013

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