Routes as trad in The Lower Playground

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Trespass

This route is easiest rapped into. Keep abseiling past the ledge the other routes start from for about 10m, then walk L to the toe of a narrow, light coloured buttress with a crack at its base. Or walk down the pinnacle track until the first wall on the pinnacle (about 10m high and overhanging, R of the top of Physical Meditation), go down about 10m then contour L (facing downhill) 1. 19m Up the blunt arete, runout, then L to the crack and up. 2. 26m (ctux) Up the interesting face with a bolt (#1 RP handy as 1st runner), follow the blocky ridgeline and over the split boulder.

FA: Mark Gommers & Ross Anderson, 1994

Mixed 45m, 2, 1
23 Crack of Doom

The overhanging finger crack around the corner from Trespass P2 at the L end of the ledge and L of the descent gully.

FA: Mark Gommers & Peter Kingsbury, 1994

Trad 10m
15 Lady Natasha

Varied climbing and you can avoid getting wedged in the wide section by using face hold.

FA: Raymond Stuart, 1993

Trad 22m
20 De Ja Vu

Straight up the perfect vertical finger crack to large ledge then move left and up arette to top. (Bridge from crack to the arette without climbing onto the large ledge for a slightly harder climb)

FFA: Andrew Doubleday, 1994

Mixed 23m, 1
20 Knocking on Heaven's Door

Starts at the Brett Pybus memorial plaque, 5m down L from L. Brett died before he could complete this route, they played this song at his funeral. Up the corner taking care with the gear. Clip the bolt by climbing up then leaning across then come back down to the ledge. Step R onto the face and up the fragile feeling flakes past another FH.

FA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Kinbacher, 1996

Mixed 25m, 2
17 Heaven Can Wait
Trad 25m
18 Doppleganger
Trad 23m
18 Shit Happens

Apparently worthwhile and solid for the grade. Around the arete from KHD and 2m L of the major corner. Take the crack to the V groove and the crux. Watch for loose blocks at the top.

FA: Mark Wright, 1993

Trad 20m
19 Tin Tin

The overhanging hand crack 1m R of SH.

FA: Alan Simet, 1994

Trad 20m
17 Jack's Beanstalk

Directly below Avalon is a disappearing crack which leads to a ledge at 25m, a cruxy face and scrub bash out.

FA: Rob Smythe & Paul Hayford, 1986

Trad 40m
16 Lost In The Land Of Grimm
Trad 40m
17 Simply Led

FA: Rik Wittkopp, Craig Matthews & Adam Haddon

Trad 40m
12 She does this for fun

Climb is easily visable from the Pinnacle opposite. P1 (12) Follow system of thin cracks to ledge below wide chimney. P2 (10) Up chimney/wide crack.

FA: Lee Anice & Lorna Hepburn, 1995

Trad 37m
18 Ground up

FA: Bob Miller & Rik Wittkop

Trad 65m
19 takes two boys

FA: rik wittkop & mark gommers

Trad 65m
17 Take two girls

P1 (14) Crack to ledge P2 (17) Out right then up and diagonally right across thin holds. Good protection.

FA: Lee Anice & Lorna Hepburn, 1995

Trad 44m
23 Adrenal-line

starts R of the fig roots under a small orange section of face. 1/ 20m. 18. up the mixed face to a small bulge (3 FH's) & over to a slab with scattered rp placements (easy climbing). continue on to DBB on the R of the horizontal break. 2/ 18m. 22/23. Technical face climbing. keep in contact with the fused seam which opens up occasionally for finger &/or gear. veer slightly R for the cruxy exit. 3 FH's & lots of small wires.

FA: Rik Wittkopp, Nathan Walmsley & Adam Hardaker, 2001

Trad 38m

Showing all 17 routes.