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Table of contents

1. Umbrawarra Gorge 33 routes in Crag

Trad, Unknown and Aid

Long/Lat: 131.692979, -13.966610

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great fine grained orange sandstone with the creek just underneath

Description:© (Stu)

Umbrawarra Gorge is an Aboriginal owned site and is managed on their behalf by the Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory.

Access Issues:© (Stu)

You will require a permit to climb 'Umbrawarra Gorge', which can be obtained from the Parks and 'Wildlife' Commission of the 'Northern Territory', Litchfield Park on phone (08) 89 760 282.

This permit only allows you to climb the walls in the first two pools, and currently requires for a member of the climbing party to have instructional qualifications. 'Umbrawarra Gorge' is a sacred site - there are burial grounds and other significant sites throughout the gorge. If these are destroyed or damaged in any way, then climbing here will be stopped completely. Bolting is strictly forbidden - Please respect the area.


Walk along the gorge for a few minutes

Where To Stay:

Umbrawarra campground is located only a couple of minutes away, and features barbecues, a long drop toilet, and no water.

Camp fees are payable, and at last visit were $3.50 per person per night.


Umbrawarra Gorge is an Aboriginal owned site, managed by Parks and Wildlife. It is a sacred site and should be treated as such. There are a few bolts, but these should not be added to or replaced without discussion with the authorities

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The First Pool

The first pool

1 * Ankle Anxiety 23 Trad 12m
2 Ode To Python

Carrot bolts on this climb are not considered safe and probably will

not get replaced due to their location within a National Park. 2CB

Start: Start from same platform as 'Ankle Anxiety'. Right and up past the 2 BR's to ledge, left and up to finish.

21 R Trad 9m
3 ** Clowns Corner

A popular introduction to the area. Obvious and awesome corner crack leading to tree, right and around corner from 'Ankle Anxiety'. Follow corner crack straight up, step onto

the right hand ledge to finish. Big holds and great pro.

11 Trad 13m
4 Bats & Balls 16 Trad 10m
5 * King of the World 15 Trad 15m
6 * Purpledickular 19 Trad 12m
7 What A Wall

5m right of P lies an obvious crack starting through a juggy overhang. Crack leads to mantelshelf and small left facing corner. Interesting and pleasant climbing.

14 Trad 16m
8 * Oranges and Lemons

About 6m R of Clown's corner, this tackles the overhang that leads to the prominent grey slabby wall. Very pumpy start with exciting move onto main wall. Easier but poorly protected finish up slabby wall past mantelshelf.

18 Trad 16m
9 Kiwi's Big White Arse 17 Trad 16m
10 * Watch Her Face 20 Trad 15m
11 * Kat's Corner

Start up V shaped corner just right of W. Follow obvious line, with delicate protection at 2/3 height. Under-rated and underclimbed!

16 Trad 13m

The Enclosure

The left hand side of the second pool

12 *** Stay Low 17 Trad 20m
13 * Little Bitch 19 Trad 20m
14 ** This Monkey has Gone To Heaven 17 Trad 20m
15 ** Enclosure Exposure 15 Trad 20m
16 Violet Crumble 14 Trad 20m
17 * Fish Bones 16 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** Grand Traverse 17 Trad 20m
19 Memento Mori

Wet start - start in the pool below the thin crack system 2-3 m left of the arete. Finish on the ledge above

Would make a nice intro to an added pitch above.

FA: Dane Evans, 2009

14 Trad 10m
20 ** Double or Nothing 17 Trad 15m

RHS Second pool

Right hand side of the Second Pool

21 Fuck That 15 Unknown 15m
22 * King Brown 22 Unknown 13m
23 King Brown Arete 17 Unknown 16m

The Cinema

Right hand side of the Second Pool

These climbs predate the current system, and it's marginal whether these climbs are permitted.

24 Basque Separatist 19 M1 Aid 20m
25 ** Basque Bastard 19 Trad 22m
26 ** Basque Bitch 22 Trad 22m
27 ** Jurassic Park 14 Trad 25m
28 * Camelot 16 Trad 20m
29 Cartoon Dancing 14 Unknown 20m
30 Swinging Defective 9 Unknown 20m
31 ** Salmonella 16 Unknown 22m
32 Crack with Tree 18 Trad 14m
33 Sheeplovers Bane

Much loved except by lovers of sheep. The really obvious mantelshelf near the base of

NES. Really just a boulder problem, however it is usually toproped due to the dangerous


FA: Steve Beyer, Chris Hart, Anthes Oorloff and a cast of others except Kiwi, 2000

20 Unknown 5m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
9 Swinging Defective Unknown 20m
11 ** Clowns Corner Trad 13m
14 Cartoon Dancing Unknown 20m
** Jurassic Park Trad 25m
Memento Mori Trad 10m
Violet Crumble Trad 20m
What A Wall Trad 16m
15 ** Enclosure Exposure Trad 20m
Fuck That Unknown 15m
* King of the World Trad 15m
16 Bats & Balls Trad 10m
* Camelot Trad 20m
* Fish Bones Trad 14m
* Kat's Corner Trad 13m
** Salmonella Unknown 22m
17 ** Double or Nothing Trad 15m
** Grand Traverse Trad 20m
King Brown Arete Unknown 16m
Kiwi's Big White Arse Trad 16m
*** Stay Low Trad 20m
** This Monkey has Gone To Heaven Trad 20m
18 Crack with Tree Trad 14m
* Oranges and Lemons Trad 16m
19 ** Basque Bastard Trad 22m
* Little Bitch Trad 20m
* Purpledickular Trad 12m
19 M1 Basque Separatist Aid 20m
20 Sheeplovers Bane Unknown 5m
* Watch Her Face Trad 15m
21 R Ode To Python Trad 9m
22 ** Basque Bitch Trad 22m
* King Brown Unknown 13m
23 * Ankle Anxiety Trad 12m