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Approach

Head south through Woy Woy / 'Umina' Beach and follow the signs to Pearl Beach – Patonga. Follow the winding road past the water tower (Brown Room) and take the right fork towards Patonga (other road goes to Pearl Beach). Park about a kilometre after the fork on the inside of a right hand corner. Walk back about 10m on the other side of the road to find the track in past the bones.

© (pete_w)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V1 White Whale Boulder

Start at the front of the sandy cave on pockets, head across right and up on gastons. Easy Mantle.

FA: Nick Kaz, 2000

2
V3 Red Shark Boulder

Same start as WW, but straight up past a thin pocket. High mantle.

FA: Nick Kaz, 2000

3
? Cave Traverse Boulder

Start as WW and traverses L up to easy section of 'Gobshite'. Potential extension(s) to Feckarse or beyond.

FA: Jason Piper, 2000

4
V6 Gobshite Boulder

Sit start and up easily along obvious left diagonal to hideous mantle.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

5
V6 Project Boulder
6
V5 Something Tarty Boulder

Start up 'Gobshite' and continue traversing left past TA to finish up Feckarse.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

7
V3 Feck Arse Boulder

Start on low pocket in front of nearly fallen tree. Up past big hold to pleasant mantle using sloping sidepull.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

8

Start on the smiley hold, up left then desperate mantle over top, staying out of 'Gutted'.

FA: Anthony Alexander, 2000

9
V4 Gutted Boulder

SS the obvious throat-like chimney. All sorts of tricks can be used for the mantle.

FA: Jason Piper, 2000

10
V5 ** Slippery Nipple Boulder

Stand start 2.5m Right of Penrith by the Sea. Start on obvious slot the move to the lip an right to the nipple hold on top to top out.

FA: Dan, 2000

11
V6 * Nipple Cripple Boulder

Sit start as for Penrith by the sea and traverse the lip all the way to finish as for slippery nipple.

FA: dan

12

Umina Beach! Best 5m left of 'Gutted', SS at left end of low flake.

Traverse right a couple of moves, dyno up, right a couple more moves and mantle at the triple hold. Possible extensions to the right @ Vhard.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

13

Stand start in the double hueco ledge and go straight up – use the "victory" hold out right as per 'Gobshite'.