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Description

Guide here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=938

A small but impressive little wall blessed with solid rock and a short stroll from the car. Generally the wall is vertical to slightly overhanging with the exception of the small roof below the Arete in the centre. The wall is quite high in the centre with some of the problems having deceptively difficult top outs so a good spotter is recommended highly. A few projects remain to be done; however the wall to the right past the main wall has been left un climbed. All problems are top outs and are sure to get your pulse going.

Location: Find Mt Ettalong Road Umina and follow this towards Patonga. Drive 3.5km past the Pearl Beach turn off until you come to quite a sharp left hand bend with a rocky out-crop on the corner (if you start heading down the steep road into Patonga, you’ve gone too far). Park on the left of the road, just after a telegraph pole where there is a large clear area for several cars. Walk back towards the corner and head right into the bush near the second telegraph pole (you should be able to see the cliff line up on your right). Keep heading right when you come to the small cave, there is one project to be done here on the overlapping roof. Follow the broken cliff line for a short distance until you come to the obvious main wall with the central Arête feature.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0- The Cape Boulder

At the very left hand end of the wall is a low obvious, in cut jug in front of the black boy. Start here and move directly up through the seams.

2
V0+ Buzz Light Year Boulder

Start low on the cluster of pockets, climb up to the obvious jug and continue up to top out.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

3
V2 Man vs Machine Boulder

1m right of Buzz. Start on low break then climb up via the diagonal seam running up to the left only. Do not use the holds from the problems either side.

4

From the starting break climb directly up the wall through some good in cut edges to top out on the highest point.

5
V2 Cape crusader Boulder

Start in front of the small boulder from a good low pocket. Climb directly up in front of the vertical seam.

6
V4 Committed Boulder

1m right of observer, start on a bad diagonal slot, climb directly up the bulging wall. Leap to a bad right hand edge, then back leftish to a committing top out.

7
V3 Observer Boulder

Climb directly up the steepish wall not using the good holds of 'Cape Fear' to the right. Top out over the knobbly bulge, scary.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

8
V1 Cape Fear Boulder

In the scoopy section, climb straight up the good slots and escape slightly right when topping out.

9
V1 Thin White Line Boulder

Climb straight up the thin seam just left of the nose to the orange jug and over the top.

FA: Daniel da Silva

10
V4 Challenger left Boulder

Sit start on the left side of the nose. Climb right via some small slots below the roof-let, out to pinch the Arête and fire straight up the nose (avoid the thin white line).

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

11
V4 Solar Eclipse Boulder

From the wide break make a big move straight up or via a bad small edge to gain the good high break. Either traverse 'Eclipse' or climb straight up to finish.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

12
V2 Eclipse Boulder

Start as for 'I Want to be an Astronaut' but traverse the high break all the way left to top out above the nose.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

13

Just in front of the boulder on the ground. Make a big first move to the first good break then easily up through the jugs to a tricky exit.

FA: Josh Kent

14
V0+ Sneak Preview Boulder

Start from the two obvious pockets and climb straight up over the bulge.

15
V3 Lunar Arete Boulder

Start on the very right hand Arête. Climb the Arête proper without feet straying to the wall on the right. Tricky.

16

Start on the break on the right side of the Arête then climb the nose.