Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Coopers Main Sector | |||||
V0+ | ★★ Bonehead Half Wit Hero
The microbrewery is located half way down the Southern descent. Hardest part climbing the problems in this mini cave is keeping off the ground. Recommend only using a tarp as it allows additional clearance! SDS cramped in the back of the cave on double underclings. | 2m | |||
V1 | Ten Toes Pipeline
SDS as for Bonehead Half Wit Hero. Juggy traverse finishing around the left arete. | 3m | |||
V2 | Moon Dog Mack Daddy
SDS on the good low rail. Straight out and up with a long move at the lip to the top. Wall right of the central crack is off route. | 2m | |||
V0- | Fosters
Scraping the bottom of the keg now! Super short square arete perched on a steep slope a short distance left of the Microbrewery. SDS off the horizontals above the bad landing. | 2m | |||
V0 | Carlton Dry
SDS undercut short stepped corner | 2m | |||
V2 | Balter Captain Sensible
SDS undercut rounded arete immediately left of Carlton Dry. Eliminate the hanging shelf on the left and everything including the crack to the right. Climbs better than it sounds. | 2m | |||
V1 | Green Beacon Windjammer
SDS prow arete direct. Crack of Boatrocker Banshee and face further left eliminated. | 3m | |||
V0- | Boatrocker Banshee
SDS crack | 3m | |||
V0+ | Marihana
SDS undercut scoop to shelf and face above. | 3m | |||
V1 | Saison Sayuri
SDS starting prone matching the blocky flat top. Up to the nose above and rockover to mantel. | 2m | |||
V0- | Kagua Rouge
SDS layback the crack. Eliminate the triangular block down and left of the crack. | 3m | |||
V1 | Asahi Soukai
Bad landing - stacked pads recommended. Crux is manteling the capstone. SDS. Like Kagua Rouge, also eliminates the triangular block at the base. | 3m | |||
V0 | Yebisu
SDS Corner | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Hideji Kuri Kuro
SDS sidepull left and low incut right. undercling, crimps, mono and duo doigts to the top | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Sapporo
Low start right side of the arete (has been climbed from a SDS but doesn't add value). Up and L around arete and then throw for the top FA: @dalai, 2006 | 4m | |||
Project1
Front undercut blank face. Has been climbed by using the right side of Pabst Blue Ribbon crack to get established on the face, but the direct line through the bulge still awaits those with fingers of steel. | 4m | ||||
V0- | ★ Pabst Blue Ribbon
SDS Wide crack FA: @dalai, 2006 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Amstel Gold
SDS Undercut rounded arete immediately L of the crack FA: @dalai, 2006 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Labatt Blue
SDS The thin face starting down to the right. Sidepull to pockets. Shelf and crack to the left is out. FA: @dalai, 2006 | 3m | |||
V0- | Keystone Light
SDS Crack from the shelf. | 3m | |||
V0- | ★ Weihenstephaner Vitus
SDS Easy corner crack | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Gösser
SDS Short face left of the crack | 3m | |||
V0+ | Modelo Especial
SDS Arete starting on the shelf | 3m | |||
V0- | Trappistes Rochefort
Short slabby face left of the arete. | 3m | |||
VB | Lobkowicz Knight
SDS Crack | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Blackhook Porter
SDS sidepull left hand and pocket for the right. Powerful start to break then pockets above. | 3m | |||
V0+ | Montejo
SDS Edges to the horizontal and short crack | 3m | |||
VB | Killian's Red
SDS Easy wide crack | 3m | |||
V2 | Gulden Draak
SDS Contrived sit start low flat shelf for the left and right pocket pinch just above. Foot shelf below the low flat shelf is divided into three. Don't use the largest right portion. Thin seam up the vague corner above with mostly monos if sausages for fingers. V1 from a stand. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Eliot Ness
SDS Pockets and edges to vague arete. Crack and seam either side are out. | 3m | |||
V0- | Quilmes
SDS short corner crack | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Carta Blanca
SDS Face via pockets and horizontal. Crack and arete are out. | 3m | |||
V0- | ★ One-Eyed Jack
SDS Right side of the arete. | 3m | |||
V0 | Hevelius Kaper
SDS Left side of the arete. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Fordham Dunkel Weiss
Face excluding the arete and crack to the left. | 4m | |||
V0- | ★ Clausthaler
SDS Wide crack | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Fatty Boombalatty
SDS Jug long span to pockets. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Optimator
Located on the separate block just below the main walls. Takes the right side of the face. SDS crimp for the L, Right arete for the R. Only rear section of the pedestal base for the feet. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Snake Bite
LDS on two small crimps left of Optimator. No pedestal start, only use the face to climb. Short move out left to a matching crimp, then use right hand Gaston to get to a double mono 'snake bite' hold, hold on tight. Then move out right, finishing La Rosa. Upper lip is off, except at top out. FA: Dylan Mattingly, May 2021 | ||||
V2 | ★ Bucking Bock
SDS left side of the face. Very short pull on problem as no pedestal for the feet. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ La Rossa
Lip traverse with the pedestal off route. SDS matched on the jug. Traverse the lip all the way till at the slab on the opposite side of the block. | 4m | |||
V0 | LogJam Lager
SDS Crack | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Nostradamus Bruin
SDS Shelf start to pockets | 4m | |||
V0- | Rogue Old Crustacean
SDS Easy wide crack | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Estrella Damm
SDS thin pocketed face. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Noche Buena
SDS Face immediately right of the thin crack, Thin seam at the top. | 3m | |||
V0+ | Staropramen
SDS Thin crack. | 3m | |||
V0- | Zagorka Special
SDS Corner crack | 3m | |||
V1 | Uerige Sticke
SDS Arete | 3m | |||
V2 | Rodenbach Grand Cru
Technical face via undercling | 3m | |||
V0- | Framboise Lambic
SDS Crack. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Rebel Garnet
SDS The shallow arete without needing the foot shelf to start. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Het Kapittel Pater
SDS using the shelf to start. Direct up the face via slots and high sloping break eliminating the crack and arete either side. | 3m | |||
V0- | Dinkel Acker
Thin cracks join to finish wide cleft. Has been done as a SDS but adds no value. | 3m | |||
V0 | Lagunitas Maximus
Vague arete to flake with foot shelf to start. | 3m | |||
V1 | Pilsner Prospere
Rounded arete with hands starting in the break, eliminating the ledge and blocky base for the feet. | 3m | |||
V1 | Piraat
SDS on the ledge without using the shelf below the seam for feet. Up the closed seam corner. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Chambly Noire
SDS off the ledge. Short steep arete via break. The good slot halfway up the corner of Sprecher Shakparo is off route. If you use it, subtract a couple of grades. | 3m | |||
V1 | Sprecher Shakparo
SDS on the ledge. Awkward pull to the break then up the short corner above. Minus the first move starting in the break is a pleasant V0. | 3m | |||
V0+ | Victoria Bitter
SDS Short left arete starting in the break | 2m | |||
V0+ | Leffe Bruin
Short undercut slab just left of the central descent. | 3m | |||
V0 | Doug's got Jugs
Start as for "Leffe Bruin" and traverse left on good holds. Finish as per "Butty Bach" FA: Jamie | 5m | |||
V0 | Dogwood Decadent
SDS Right leading seam | 3m | |||
V0+ | Victory Hop Wallop
SDS under scooped arete. Follow the crack right and up. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Pacifico
SDS under scooped arete. Take on the arete direct without the right crack | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ WychCraft
SDS below left edge of the scopped arete. Up via the shelf and pockets | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Tequiza
SDS under low roof with hands just above the lip. Tricky mantel over the lip | 4m | |||
V0 | Elephant Red
SDS left arete | 4m | |||
V0- | ★ Butty Bach
SDS middle of the face via shelves | 4m | |||
V0 | Jasne Zamkowe
SDS Corner crack | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Old Growler Porter
SDS Delicate face finishing over the top block direct | 4m | |||
V0- | Ziegenbock
SDS Corner crack | 4m | |||
V0 | Uncle Otto's Oktoberfest Marzen
SDS Arete via the low shelf | 4m | |||
V1 | Negra Modelo
SDS Face left of the arete | 4m | |||
V0- | Golden Pheasant
SDS crack | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Don De Dieu
SDS Awkward start. Up the vague arete. Really nice stand start at V0+ | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Dos Eqius
SDS Left leaning crack. | 3m | |||
V1 | Widmer Amberbier
SDS Short double arete | 2m | |||
V0 | Colônia Malzbier
SDS Short crack and face. | 2m | |||
VB | Ommegang Hennepin
Clean slab immediately left of the corner. Downgraded as flake has pulled off leaving a large shelf. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Tripel Karmeliet
SDS undercut arete. Starting with left crimp sidepull and right low edge. Powerful long pull to pockets. The big sidepull on Moretti Doppio Malto and blocky footshelf is off route. | 3m | |||
V1 | Moretti Doppio Malto
SDS Face right of the corner. | 3m | |||
V0- | Krušovice Cerne
SDS Right crack | 3m | |||
V0- | Krušovice Imperial
SDS Left crack | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Pyramid Curve Ball Kolsch
Front of the steep arete with deceptively tough topout. | 3m | |||
V0 | Leinenkugel's Red
Right edge of the wide crack | 3m | |||
V0- | Avery Salvation
Easy under vertical face. | 3m | |||
VB | Rickard's Dark
Y crack | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Peak One Porter
SBS Right on the flake and left very low undercling slot either side of the arete. Long move up left to a good sidepull then up via pockets and edges. Large jug on the left face is out. | 3m | |||
V0- | ★ Fischer Amber
Face.left of the arete with poor feet to start. Has been done from a SDS but better without. | 3m | |||
VB | Peche Lambic
Corner crack | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Victory Baltic Thunder
SDS Face right of the arete to flake | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★★ Weyerbacher Slam Dunkel
SDS arete. Eliminate the shelf to the left | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Stout
SDS in the cave. Up the right side including the block underneath for feet. Anything right of the arete is out. FA: Phil Neville, 2009 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Extra Stout
SDS under roof on some good crimps. Straight out(block underneath is out for hands and feet) via slopes and crimps. Anything right of the arete is out too. FA: Phil Neville, 2009 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Pale
SDS as for Stout heading up left FA: Phil Neville, 2009 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Amber
Easiest if circuitous route to the top of the right side of the cave. SDS follow Pale to the shelf. Cross over right to a positive side pull, then continue via the large edge to finish up the right arete. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Bubbly Shoulders
Start as for sparkling. Move up to ledge sloper. Establish high feet and move right hand into sidepull pocket Gaston. Cross to rail jug and finish as for sparkling. Slightly more powerful variation than Amber to access Gaston. | 3m | |||
V3/4 | ★ Bright Burst
Start as for Sparkling. Move to ledge sloper. Put your knees in your chin and launch up and right to the top. FA: Ben Procter, 17 Dec 2020 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Sparkling
SDS on the left. Traversing right and finishing up Stout. FA: Phil Neville, 2009 | 3m |