Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North East 1,294 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 147.150036, -36.682385

1.1. Mount Buffalo 786 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.774778, -36.706165

Unique Features And Strengths:

Extraordinary climbing on alpine granite of all grades on everything from boulders through single pitch crags to multi day aid affairs on the North Wall of the gorge.

Description:

Mount Buffalo consists of both a large gorge and an alpine plateau.

For those staying for long periods at Mt Buffalo, there is Telstra reception throughout the majority of the national park, but limited Optus coverage found at the carpark for the Gorge and the Horn.

Approach:

Varies from short to long, flat to steep walk ins or abseil approaches both short and long.

Where To Stay:

Paid camping is available at Lake Catani on the plateau and can be booked online (http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/mount-buffalo-national-park/things-to-do/lake-catani-camping-ground) or over the phone via Parks Victoria. Beware, the campground is quite expensive at $50/night. Of course you can also bivvy on the walls of the gorge during multi day ascents, or just for the fun of it. Remember to note your intentions in the climbers log at the Park Info shelter near Bents Lookout.

Free remote camping is available on the Plateau at Rocky Creek and Mt. McLeod via several km walks.

Free camp sites are available in State Forest in the nearby Buckland Valley as well as other nearby forests.

Ethic:

Trad climbing rules here! Bolts are a last resort! Most of the major aid lines can be done clean using modern gear unless noted. Freeing of aid sections should probably attempted as trad before resorting to fixed artificial protection.

History:

Early Aboriginal history regarding Mt Buffalo is somewhat sketchy but the Yiatmathang and Minjambuta mobs regularly trekked up to the plateau in the warmer months to harvest Bogong moths.

The first non-Aboriginal sighting was made in 1824 by the explorers Hume and Hovell. In 1853 it was climbed by botanists von Mueller and Dallachy.

In 1898, 1,166 ha were declared as a temporary national park. This was expanded by 9,356 ha in 1908 when the road to the plateau was opened.

In 1910 The Chalet was built, along with the dam wall that created Lake Catani. The first ski tows were built in 1936.

Rock climbing started in the 1930's with a few routes at The Cathedral and the Wall of China though records are almost non- existent. During the late '40s and '50s several visits were made by Melbourne University Mountaineering Club groups.

Geoff Shaw established climbs at The Cathedral in 1959 and 1961. Not much of note happened until a very young John Ewbank visited for the first time and claimed the first true ascent of The Cathedral pinnacle with Maharajah with a number of aids. He would return in 1968 to claim the first free ascent of the line as well.

*Based on the 2006 Mt Buffalo guide by Lindorff & Murray.

1.1.1. Eurobin Falls 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.836219, -36.719201

Description:© (willmonks)

The rap anchor above 'Muscle Beach' was fixed December 2010.

1.1.2. Mackeys Lookout 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.830361, -36.711500

Description:© (jgoding)

Big slabby area with lots of atmosphere

Useful Info: Be careful of the established routes, while some of them are easy there is very little (if any) protection.

Approach:© (jgoding)

About 1/3 the way down the mountain you will find a hair pin bend with a sign on the left (as you drive down) saying "Mackey's lookout". To get to 'Stiletto' 'Slabs' park here, walk across the road (past the prominent sign post on the right), up "The Big Walk" for about 10mins. Just before (say 30-50m) you reach the stream (which turns into the waterfall on the main face) contour left along the white slabs, cross the waterfall (carefully) and abseil down the far side (right as you look OUT from the cliff) from a rappel station (2 rings) on an easy to get to huge boulder. Rap is 25m to another rap. 55m is the next rap, so make sure you have suitable ropes. It is about 40m from the rap below to the bottom of the (new) routes described here.

For access to the 'Noblesse Oblige' area see separate access notes in that section.

1.1.3. Mt McLeod 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.797908, -36.690011

Where To Stay:

Remote camping is available here and may be used to explore the Northern Plateau.

1.1.4. The Gorge - South Side 191 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.823732, -36.721583

1.1.5. The Gorge - North Side 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Aid and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.822315, -36.717802

1.1.6. Reservoir Environs 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.773226, -36.733629

1.1.7. Lake Catani 64 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.812530, -36.733257

Description:© (koala)

Tors spread around 'Lake Catani'. They are all easily accessible by foot from the campground.

1.1.8. Le Souef Plateau 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.796128, -36.754222

1.1.9. The Cathedral 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 146.786843, -36.755239

Description:© (jgoding)

A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around

Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:

'Maharajah' (17**)

Bloodknok (17**)

'Sultan' (20***)

Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch is spectacular (you can rap in), the first pitch is now quite overgrown and is not really worth it.

Sunrunner (22**)

The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.

'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)

Substance Abuse (24***)

The Dreaming (23***)

Approach:© (jgoding)

It's about half way from 'Lake Catani' / The Chalet to the Horn (at the end of the road). Obviously visible from the road. Follow the Cathedral/Hump walking track until you reach an obvious track leading off towards the base of the cathedral.

1.1.10. The Hump Area 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.787542, -36.758155

Approach:

Follow The Cathedral/Hump walking track all the way to the end.

1.1.11. Buckland Slabs 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.797630, -36.780461

Description:© (jgoding)

Decent length routes on good rock.

Useful Info: See P154 of the V5 Mt 'Buffalo' guide (2006 - VCC) for access and route details. Park at the old 'Buffalo' lodge car park and walk towards Dixons Falls. A GPS would be handy (especially if someone was good enough to note the GPS Co-ordinates here!

Approach:© (jgoding)

1.5hr walk in, mostly flat on a good track, with the last bit a bush bash.

1.1.12. Tatra Inn 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (willmonks)

Note: 'Tatra Rocks' is also near here but is described under "The Hump" section.

1.1.13. The Back Wall Area 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Aid and Trad

Long/Lat: 146.766818, -36.790021

1.1.14. The Horn Area 99 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.766710, -36.776019

Description:© (jgoding)

The highest place to climb at 'Buffalo' with a good range of excellent routes. Super easy access up the tourist track to the huge lookout.

Useful Info: Best Routes:

Big Fun (15**)

'The Pintle' Left Hand Varient (16**)

Hoi Polloi (16*)

Peroxide Blonde (20**) - would get 3 stars if it was longer.

*Please use the two new carrot bolts to rap into Big Fun/Peroxide Blonde/The Pintle LHV rather than going off the lookout handrails as the rangers will get quite antsy if you do.

*Don't forget bolt plates as almost all the bolts are carrot style (no hangers).

Approach:© (jgoding)

At the end of the road you will find it...

1.1.15. Washout Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2. Beechworth Area 161 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.690061, -36.356962

Description:

The area centred on Beechworth and bounded by the Hume Freeway on the northwest, the Alpine Road from Wangaratta to Myrtleford on the southwest, and the road from Albury to Myrtleford (via Yackandandah) on the east. Almost all of the rock is granite and a many of the crags are collections of boulders of varying sizes.

1.2.1. Beechworth Gorge 34 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.678489, -36.354006

Description:

Boulders and quarries located adjacent to Gorge Rd

See http://www.chockstone.org/Beechworth/Bouldering.htm

Approach:

Enter from the Beechworth-Wodonga Rd end of Gorge Rd for areas A, B and C. Enter at the Powder Magazine (Skidmore Rd) for areas D, E, F, G, H, I, J.

1.2.2. The Precipice 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.3. Flat Rock 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.643926, -36.358089

1.2.4. Mt Pilot 77 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 146.662335, -36.255972

Description:

Mt Pilot is a granite outcrop roughly halfway between the towns of Chiltern and Beechworth. Rock quality varies, however most of the routes are on good quality rock. The area is popular with locals as a short walk from the carpark offers good views in all directions.

Approach:

Exit the Hume Freeway at Chiltern and turn towards Beechworth. After about 10 minutes, you'll pass a nursery on the left. At the top of the next hill, turn left on an unsealed track. Follow this to the carpark.

1.2.5. Mt Stanley 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 146.803051, -36.448598

Description:

Mt Stanley consists of a number of granite outcrops that are very similar to Mt Buffalo, although they are mostly quite short. This makes it a great spot to get some practice in for your projects on the mountain! The location of the crag (facing west and above 1000m altitude) means that it can quickly turn very cold, so be prepared for the weather! In winter, it can be snowing or cool with fantastic friction. In summer, it can be boiling hot or refreshingly cool (especially in the morning).

Approach:

The drive to Mt Stanley is easy if it is dry. However, when it is wet, a few sections are very muddy and require a 4WD.

From Beechworth, drive to Stanley. When you get to the intersection in the middle of Stanley where you can turn right to Myrtleford, go left (Hillsborough Rd). Follow this - shortly after you pass Highgrove Orchard it turns to dirt. The second turn off to the right is Mt Stanley Rd - take this and follow it to the end where you'll see the main tower. To get to Talon Block and Grendel Corner, turn around and drive back about 300m and take the first 4WD track on the left. If you're in a car, park just off the road as this track is 4WD only. Follow it up and over the ridge and then around the corner you'll find the new (2013) comms tower.

1.2.6. The Pinnacles 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.7. Mt Jack 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3. Albury Quarry 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Top Rope, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 146.902468, -36.080663

Unique Features And Strengths:

Easy access and close to town

Description:

Old quarry, some routes can get pretty dirty but worth checking out if you are local.

Approach:

Park at the end of Riverview Terrace and follow track 200m to the entry to the quarry. Routes on the the back and left walls.

Ethic:

Generally bolts, with a few bits of gear. A few routes need natural top anchors.

History:

Refer to the VCC's "A Rock Climbing Guide Eastern Victoria" for history and more route information.

1.3.1. Back Wall 6 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: 146.902614, -36.080479

Description:

Straight ahead as you enter the quarry.

1.3.2. Left wall 4 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 146.902187, -36.080618

Description:

Steep wall on your left as you enter the quarry.

1.4. Felltimber Creek Crag 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.824504, -36.128093

Unique Features And Strengths:

A compact bouldering area on the outskirts of Wodonga.

Description:

Felltimber Creek Crag is a collection of granite boulders on the south side of the hill just west of Wodonga. It is a good place to spend an afternoon, with several excellent problems and a large number of worthwhile ones. The problems are also quite varied, from slabs to faces to rooves to cracks. There are also a small number of roped climbs - Where Bovines Fear To Tread and Pimp Daddy Superstar being the highlights.

Approach:

From Melbourne, take the 1st Wodonga exit (Melbourne Rd). Turn R at the first intersection past the overpass (Moorefield Park Drive). From Sydney, take the 3rd Wodonga exit (Melrose Dr). After crossing the railway line, turn R at the roundabout onto Melbourne Rd. Then take the first L onto Moorefield Park Drive. Once you're on Moorefield Park Drive, follow this to the end (a T intersection) and turn R onto Felltimber Creek Road. Follow this down a hill and over a bridge. About 400m after you pass Ingrams Rd (on the R), there's a carpark. Follow the obvious walking track to the climbing areas (which are on the S side of the hill). The carpark is marked on the street map with an X. The walking track is marked on the satellite map in green, and access to the crags is marked in yellow dashes.

1.4.1. The Citadel 43 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.825300, -36.128296

Approach:© (gordoste)

The first area you see up on your R when walking along the track.

1.4.2. The Dairy 61 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 146.823943, -36.128249

Description:

This area has more to do than the Citadel, especially with a rope. Problems can be powerful (Big-ass Bovine Style) or technical (Fresian). Where Bovines Fear To Tread is a must-do and has not yet been onsighted!

Approach:© (gordoste)

The second area you see up on your R when walking along the track.

1.5. Mansfield 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 146.097777, -37.068660

1.5.1. Main Divide Lookout Cliff 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6. Omeo 96 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.590324, -37.079659

1.6.1. The Niggerheads 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.2. Mt Tabletop 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.3. Macfarlane's Lookout 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.4. Rams Horn 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

1.6.5. Rams Head Range 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.6.6. Cobberas Range 43 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7. Corryong 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 147.859948, -36.145110

1.7.1. Mt Mittamatite 61 routes in Area

Summary:

1.8. Buchan 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.211470, -37.463598

1.8.1. Englishman's Castle 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.2. Wave Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.3. Slunt Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.212900, -37.505787

1.8.4. Buchan Rocks 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.5. Farmhouse Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.210908, -37.421722

1.8.6. The Pyramids 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.7. Python Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.8. The Cauldron 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid

1.8.9. Balley Hooley Ridge 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.8.10. Tuloch Ard 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.9. Wulguulmerang 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.315676, -37.031805

1.9.1. Little River Gorge 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.316328, -37.085441

1.9.2. Hanging Rock 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.315885, -37.022866

1.9.3. Ballantyne's Gap 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.312028, -36.975050

1.10. Mt Ellery 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.792454, -37.375279

1.11. Snobbs Creek 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.11.1. Stevens Cliff 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.12. Mt Bogong 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Ice

Long/Lat: 147.306702, -36.740332

1.12.1. Pollux Outcrop 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.301874, -36.728107

Approach:

Routes are described right to left.

1.13. Mt Buller 0 routes in Crag

1.13.1. South Face 0 routes in Area

1.13.2. Western Side 0 routes in Area