Ascents in North West by Kieran Loughran

Have led this a few times and was fun to second. Tried a stick-clip and it worked, though would have been easier if bolt was a fraction lower. Oh well, the bolt wasn't placed with stick-clip in mind. Probably grade 15 with stick-clip, 17 without.

Almost 10 years since I did this. Lovely on a warm morning.

Nearly 10 years since I did this. The rap hangers were almost buried in lichen. Rox did a 40m pitch to the easy ground. Made for a good climb for a warm morning.

5 years since I last did this and looks like probably no other ascents in that time. Second pitch is good.

I'm not climbing well at the moment but this is way under-graded and quite run-out. Probably harder than SOTGT. Luckily my leader is a pretty calm and collected.

Bit of a toughie. Logical to combine this with Marcias but best done as 2 pitches as you really want your belayer to be watching closely on the crux.

Pretty good. If only it was longer. Good variety of pro, nothing bigger than a #3 needed despite appearances, though you could probably get a #4 in if you wanted.

Started up Hurricane Lamp Cracks. Was running first two pitches together when I encountered a death block on the traverse. Belayed early to keep control of the ropes near the block then Rox finished the short bit left of pitch, which was a bit scrubby and dirty. Rox led top pitch which had an exciting overhang which apparently looks pretty spectacular from Oceanoid. Worth doing the top pitch via The Shroud. The second pitch would have to lose its detached block to be a reasonable proposition.

Good fun with little trace of previous ascents apart from the ancient pin(which has excellent alternatives) at the overhang.

Nod's first time on pitch 2 since 1967. The move into the corner is pretty hard for short people and the first moves up the arete are quite committing with less than the best gear.

Looks like this hasn't seen an ascent in a decade or four. Good top crack. Windy as anything.

OK.

Mostly bridging and quite short. Finish moves are good but pro for that isn't as good as it might be.

Kept diagonally into Native Companion finish.

Pitch 1

Actually quite good climbing

Hadn't done this for a while. Good value.

Both pitches as described.

Laps on a showery day

Probably only the second ascent of this. Actually not too bad. Some quite nice moves in the corner and upper crack with good gear. As with most rarely climbed routes have to watch out for a few loose holds and blocks but don't have to rely on anything dodgy.

First 2 pitches. Led the original first pitch and got a shocking rope jam. Took a few shenanigans to clear. Traversed to Nakablitz anchors.

Finally got around to this. Chalk-free, found myself reaching for the missing chalk-bag a few times but my jacket being blown up around my ears provided suitable distraction.

Started via first pitch of Comedy Of Errors. Adds probably 1 grade. A good afternoon out though the breeze got a bit chilly at times. 70m rope makes the rap descent cruisy.

Aded second pitch. Stunning day.

Via R-hand start. First time I've done this. Some good moves.

Pitch 1

Haven't done this for a while. Found start hard.

Wanted to check a couple of things. Was easy to stick-place a good wire (#7) for the start. First move is crux, probably height-dependent, hard to grade, secure with the overhead wire. Finished at bolts on Reaper. Belayed and abseiled to make the start more secure for second. An option for people in the Preludes area on a warm day.