Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. North West 10,860 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.427950, -35.866651

Description:

Mt Cole

1.1. Arapiles 2,917 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.828307, -36.760663

Unique Features And Strengths:

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Description:

Heading towards Arapiles for some legendary climbing and starting to see it clearly for the first time, you will not have been alone if you feel a little disappointed. For taken from a distance Arapiles looks like a pile of choss.

It is the closer inspection that yields a glimpse of the true magic of Arapiles. For this is when Arapiles reveals itself. The beautiful rich golden and gray sandstone, hard and solid. The labyrinth of small gullies and hidden faces, the technical and varied climbing.

Added to this is that the true heart of Australian climbing resides at Arapiles and in particular the campground we call The Pines.

One of the greatest qualities Arapiles has, is its appeal to climbers of all abilities. It must be one of the few crags in the world which offers incredible quality routes at all grades.

The rock quality is such that even the easiest routes involve good rock and beautifully formed holds, a rarity at most crags. In the 'Experienced' range (approx grades 19-24) Arapiles is particularly blessed. It is only from grade 25 upwards that bolts start to kick in. Again the routes that are 25+ are incredibly good.

Climbing at Arapiles is a mixture of superb rock and technical moves on often steep and spectacular ground. Arapiles is the ideal place to become a more proficient trad climber. Arapiles is also very accessible, there are over 2000 routes all within easy walking distance.

One of the greatest things about Arapiles, which draw so many people to it apart from climbing, is the social scene. At popular times of the year the Pines campground can be very crowded, which some people may not like, but it is a good thing, because the atmosphere it creates is very social and friendly. You can turn up without a climbing partner, and be almost guaranteed to meet someone to climb with. It is great for meeting fantastic people from all over the globe.

There is so much more to say on this crag, Australia's premier crag, but that waits for you to discover it.

Emergency Locations : A large number of Arapiles locations are registered with Emergency services and have been entered in TheCrag. If you need Emergency Services, dial 000 (triple-zero). You will first be asked "Police, Fire or Ambulance?". After responding you will be connected to the required service. The next question will ask for your location. Give the Emergency Location listed in TheCrag for your cliff. This is the minimum information Emergency Services require to get going. Then you can give more details of the accident, climb etc.

Access Issues:

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach:

300km west of Melbourne.

Driving is your best bet. Public Transport is available- catch the train to Ballarat, bus to Horsham. From Horsham it is easy to hitch a lift or take a feeder bus that runs daily out to Arapiles.

Where To Stay:

The Pines Campground is situated at the base of Arapiles, with water and toilets. Suitable for long and short term camping. Campsites must be booked online at http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park or phone 13 1963.

More luxurious accommodation can be found in Natimuk i.e. Backpackers or Bed and Breakfast establishments. There is a campground at Lake Natimuk which has showers. Showers are also available at the Natimuk Pub for $5.

Ethic:

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1.1. Bushranger Bluff 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845969, -36.766948

Description:

The outcrop at Arapiles' far south-eastern end. A popular area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Approach:

Drive along the summit road and the park on the right where the sign points to 'Melville's Cave'. From there it's a short, easy walk to the crag.

1.1.2. Declaration Crag Area 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 141.851749, -36.766707

Description:

The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Approach:

Either drive 600m down the road from the campsite and park close to the base of the crag or walk along the path that starts near the toilet block.

1.1.3. Colosseum Wall Area 48 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.847881, -36.764754

Description:

Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area

1.1.4. King Rat Area 124 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846231, -36.763169

Description:

A bit of a labyrinth, but worth exploring. Good on a hot day.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Approach:

10 minutes from the camping ground.

1.1.5. Pilot Error Cliffs 61 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846505, -36.762600

Description:

The gullies and walls in between the Atridae and King Rat Gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pilot Error Area

Approach:

5 minute walk from the campground.

1.1.6. Atridae 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.846078, -36.762147

Description:

The big, prominent block up and left behind the camp ground.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Atridae Area

Approach:

5 minutes from the camp ground.

1.1.7. Organ Pipes Area 135 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845129, -36.761184

Description:

Probably the most popular multi-pitch area at Arapiles and, more importantly, close to camp.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Approach:

Short walk from the camping ground.

1.1.8. Central Gully 450 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842627, -36.758900

Description:

The broad gully slightly W (Right) of the camping ground.

Emergency Locations : Central Gully Left Side Area, Central Gully Right Side Area

Approach:

5-15 minutes walk from the camping ground.

1.1.9. Fang Buttress and Surrounds 175 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 141.845205, -36.758330

Description:

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Fang Buttress Area

Approach:

A short walk from the camping ground. Head towards the big bluff.

1.1.10. Bard Buttress 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845526, -36.757230

Description:

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bard Buttress Area

Approach:© (koala)

Note that a number of routes which actually climb the SE part of 'Bard Buttress' are not described here, but are instead under the Ali's area (found in the "Fang Buttress and Surrounds" section). They are put in that section because they start as for Ali's, at the top of the gully which divides 'Fang Buttress' from the 'Bard Buttress', and then head a bit right from there. As a result, this page describes all routes which are accessed from the gully itself or further right. The gully is fairly simple to scramble up and down, but there's several spots where you really don't want to fall off due to very nasty fall potential.

Several routes finish on the Bard Terrace, which is about 30m below the top of the buttress. To get off the Terrace you can do the final pitch of one of the other routes, but it's quickest to do an easy but very exposed walk/traverse off the left end of the ledge, which leads you into Ali's after about 40m. This traverse is often soloed but roping up for it isn't a bad idea.

To descend from the routes which go right to the top, you need to do a short little downclimb off the back of the buttress, which deposits you very close to Ali's cave. Then go through the cave, R around John's Pinnacle and down Ali's.

Descent Notes:

From the top of the buttress there's a short down-climb off the back of the buttress to Ali's cave. Go through the cave and come out at John's Pinnacle. Go R and down Ali's. There are chains to rap down (45m). Or it's a fairly easy, but in places exposed, scramble down Ali's.

For routes that finish at the Bard terrace you can either climb Bard's 5th pitch or traverse L off the end of the terrace (roping up recommended) and scramble down to Ali's.

1.1.11. Bluffs 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844832, -36.757515

Description:

Bluff Major and Bluff Minor are the two huge blocks perched above Tiger Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Approach:

Via Ali's or a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

1.1.12. Tiger Wall Area 136 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Boulder

Long/Lat: 141.844903, -36.756041

Unique Features And Strengths:

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Tiger Wall Area

1.1.13. Castle Crag 33 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.843951, -36.755185

Description:

The detached pinnacle standing well away from the main cliff. Directly in front of Grotto Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Castle Crag Area

Approach:

10 min walk from campground, heading N.

Descent Notes:

20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.

1.1.14. Grotto Wall 46 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.843510, -36.755700

Description:

The buttress directly behind Castle Crag.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Grotto Wall Area

Descent Notes:

Scramble down the back of the gully behind Grotto Wall (Pan Grove). 20m abseil from the rap station on the big chockstone.

1.1.15. Voodoo Area 104 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842156, -36.754836

Description:

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Voodoo Area

1.1.16. The Pharos and Surrounds 403 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.840995, -36.753541

Description:

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Area

1.1.17. Watchtower Area 232 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.838505, -36.751497

Description:© (secretary)

One of the most impressive sheer walls at the mountain. Contains many three star multi-pitch classics - some of the best routes Arapiles has to offer.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area

Approach:© (secretary)

The very obvious face about 1km from the campsite heading west.

1.1.18. Northern Group 211 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.834837, -36.749740

Description:© (willmonks)

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area

1.1.19. Far North 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.833416, -36.748160

1.1.20. Mitre Rock 119 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.832048, -36.737048

Description:© (koala)

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Mitre Rock South Area or Mitre Rock North Area

1.1.21. Western Side 185 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.816650, -36.754536

1.2. Grampians 7,802 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.376338, -37.265302

Unique Features And Strengths:

Some of the best climbing in a Australia in a beautiful environment, often in great solitude.

Description:

For many climbers, memories of the Grampians are like memories of paradise. The warm winter sun, breathtaking sunsets lighting up Taipan Wall and sore tips from hard days. The Grampians are beautiful and the climbing reflects this. The solitude, routes that offer variety and adventure, these are the hallmarks of the Grampians.

The Grampians offer some of the most spectacular and high quality climbing in Australia. The beautiful thing about the Grampians is that it offers so much choice, there is plenty of good easier climbing in fantastic locations, and also probably the best hard routes in the land. When you talk about climbing in the Grampians you are referring to a multitude of crags and thousands of routes. There are a core of popular crags regularly visited, then there are a host of areas that are lucky to be visited more than once a year. The most popular crags are the ones with a combination of good access and a large amount of top routes. Among the most popular areas are 'Mt Stapylton' (which incorporates a number of crags like the enormously popular 'Summerday Valley', 'The Ampitheatre'[11979139] and 'Taipan Wall'), 'Mt Rosea' (loads of quality multipitch routes) and 'Bundaleer' (an intimidating summer crag). Apart from this there is a plethora of marginally less important crags, all of which offer fantastic climbing.

Sport climbing is limited in the Grampians (although what there is, is of fantastic quality), there are three or four main areas, 'The Gallery' (steep thuggery of perfect orange sandstone), 'Millenium Caves'[13001335] (very steep flawless rock with committing runouts), 'Van Diemens Land'[12976261] (great fun) and 'Spurt Wall' (funky fun at the end of 'Taipan Wall'). Sport climbing in the Grampians begins at grade 22, so you want to be fairly competent.

Like Arapiles the trad climbing is very good, and generally the gear is exceptionally solid, there is often the occasional bolt. The harder routes to tend to be mainly on bolts. While you are here it is essential to check out Taipan Wall, unquestionably the best piece of rock in the land.

Climbing in the Grampians is generally less accessible than Arapiles, you will need to have a partner (there is no meeting someone here, unless you are lucky) and a car to get around in. The one benefit of being less accessible is that the Grampians is more of a wilderness experience. Bouldering has recently exploded in the Grampians, and there are loads of great problems to be found, including some of the hardest in the world. Bouldering is a good option if you are here in winter. All up the Grampians is a wonderful place, deserving of a decent stay. You will love it!

Access Issues:

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, pets are illegal inside park boundaries. That also includes inside vehicles.

Approach:

235km west of Melbourne. Driving is best. You can catch a train to Ballarat, then bus to Halls Gap. The only problem is that once you are there there is no way to get around unless you hire a car, or know someone that has one.

Where To Stay:

There are official campgrounds throughout the Grampians. Most do have fees, that can be quite expensive ($38 a night). Free bush camping is accepted and well practiced.

Also a range of accommodation (cabins, B&B, backpackers, motels, etc) in Halls Gap and the other villages around the National Park.

If you are wishing to camp, for further information or to book, go to http://www.parkstay.vic.gov.au/

1.2.1. North Grampians 2,771 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.408143, -37.055512

Access Issues:

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Legoland, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine

CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS

Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
G-Land, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

1.2.2. The Black Range 261 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.088071, -37.096526

Description:

The Black Range is open, not affected by the January 2014 fires.

1.2.3. Central Grampians 647 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.444747, -37.197472

1.2.4. Halls Gap Area 928 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.537188, -37.165171

1.2.5. South-Eastern Grampians 855 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.485473, -37.399449

1.2.6. Victoria Range 2,335 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 142.268039, -37.345273

Access Issues:

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

1.2.7. Black Range Granite (near Stawell) 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.758590, -37.155923

Description:

The Black Range is a series of small wooded hills outside Stawell well endowed with granite blocks. Typically of small granite areas although there is a lot of rock, and there are some very impressive blocks and pinnacles, there is a distinct lack of lines up many of them. Despite this here are a surprisingly large number of good crack lines scattered around the range. Whilst the typical rough, wide granite cracks exist, [GSOH and Illegitimate Pig being prime cases] there are also some very nice crack climbs of which Minaret and Dolerite Crack are particularly outstanding examples. There are so far very few climbs which are protected entirely by bolts. The predominance of middle grade routes and the lack of sport routes is largely a reflection on the abilities and preferences of the pioneers. The potential for routes at much harder grades is enormous. The sheer amount of rock and the large size of the range, only a very small part of which has so far been explored, means that good new routes and cliffs will be being discovered for years to come. Bouldering possibilities are limitless. Being so close to the Grampians the area is never likely to be a major draw card in its own right. However, the cliffs offer a good wet weather alternative to the Grampians and are worth a visit as a Sunday cliff if looking for a short day before heading home to Melbourne. Nearly all of the cliffs require less than 30 minutes walk in. The Petrol Head blocks near the Speedway are barely 5 minutes walk from the car. Views of the Grampians from cliffs on the Western side of the range are outstanding. Most of the range is quiet and little visited. Some of the tors, like Seal Rock, are very impressive features well worth walking to. A couple of the areas have become reasonably popular with local climbers as an occasional alternative to sandstone and as good training for granite climbing.

Access Issues:

Unlike many central Victorian granite areas where one major landowner owns all the land around a crag and can be negotiated with for access here the ownership is much more complex. Numerous old fences are found throughout the range attesting to the fact that the range has a mix of owners. In fact very little of it appears to be public land, and dozens of different private owners seem to own parts of the range. Some have little more than large suburban blocks but right up on top of the range! Consequently, despite the size of the range there appear to be only a small number of public access points and many of the cliffs are on private land. The road around the Speedway is on Crown Land, as are Car Wreck Blocks and the Turret. Dolerite Block is just over the boundary and on private land. The Bunjil saddle Cliff is on Crown Land as are the big and as yet unclimbed slabs seen at the South End of the range beyond Bunjils Cave.

Approach:

The Black Range is located just South of Stawell. Stawell is 250km West of Melbourne on the Western Highway. The Stawell/Pomonal road, also known as the Lake Fyans Rd, leaves the Western Hwy in Stawell. The Bunjil's Cave Road turn off is on the left 5km out of Stawell. This is the main access road which has been used for climbing so far. There are 3 distinct access points reached from this road. The Speedway Carpark - The Burrong Basin road leaves the Bunjil's Cave road and leads past private property to the Speedway where there is a small car park and locked gate. The road beyond the gate is shown on some road maps as a public road. Petrol Head Blocks, Dinosaur Rocks and the many blocks of Cave Hill are approached from this closed road. Western Outcrop Track - At 2.5 km along the Bunjil's Cave Road [opposite a house and about 1km before Bunjil's Cave] a minor track takes off on the left. This 4wd track leads to the summit of the hill with the Western Outcrop on it. The Western Outcrop, Burnt Shack Gully and Pinnacle Ridge are accessed from here. Bunjils Cave - 3.5km down the Bunjils Cave Rd is the signposted Bunijil's Cave reserve with a couple of picnic tables and a short walking track. Only the Bunjil Saddle Cliff has been accessed from here so far. Out of respect for indigenous culture no climbs have been done and no bolts have been placed within the Bunjil's Cave reserve area. A number of other access roads and tracks also lead into the hills from the Western Highway. Unfortunately all of these roads end at private houses, some with such welcoming signs as "Trespassers will be shot".

1.3. Mt Hope 64 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.207527, -35.986766

Unique Features And Strengths:

The northern most climbing in Victoria. Too hot in summer. This crag is best in winter when everywhere else in Victoria is too wet.

Description:

Large granite monolith near Pyramid Hill on the Tragowel Plains. The rock is large grained and very coarse and is of variable quality. There are some quality routes, but beauty may be in the eye of the beholder.

Access Issues:

No access issues. This area is in a nature reserve and contains some rare and endangered flora and fauna. It may look pretty scrappy, but please take care and look after this area if you visit.

Approach:

From Melbourne/south, head to Pyramid Hill and then drive north on the Pyramid Hill - Leitchville Rd until you see the Major Mitchell Trail sign to Mt Hope. Turn left and drive 1.5 km on the dirt. Turn left at the first opportunity to get to the Picnic Ground, or drive another 500 m to the next left to reach Suicide Rock car park

Where To Stay:

You can camp at Mt Hope, but it's pretty rough - no water or toilets. In summer the flies will carry you away during the day and the mosquitoes will take over after dark.

Ethic:

Trad as well as bolted sport routes, with a mix of carrots and fixed hangers.

1.3.1. Picnic Ground 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.208351, -35.985982

1.3.2. Dead Sheep Gully 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.3. Suicide Boulders 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.4. Suicide Rock 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 144.201665, -35.988184

Description:

This place has huge new route potential for any eager punter with a drill and some fixed hangers.

Approach:

Turn onto Suicide Rock Road. Follow and park just before the gate, which will be about 100 metres from the base of the cliff. Choose your own adventure through the light bush to the base of each climb, though there are some faintly established tracks here and there.

Descent Notes:

Descent for climbs on the main block (Grasping at Immortality through to Touch me I'm Sick) is via walking off the back and east (left) going the easiest/ safest way possible. Once off the block a track takes you back down to the base of Grasping at Immortality.

1.3.5. Side Outcrop 24 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 144.200805, -35.988324

1.3.6. The Dark Side 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 144.200941, -35.989768

1.4. Mt Kooyoora 66 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 143.704930, -36.596903

1.4.1. Lost Rox 7 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4.2. Bitumen Blues Boulders 3 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4.3. Melville's Caves 37 routes in Area

Summary:

1.4.4. The Courtyard 19 routes in Area

Summary:

1.5. Mt Cole 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 143.229378, -37.270722

1.5.1. Elmhurst Boulders 0 routes in Area

Description:

Boulder fields to the West of Elmhurst.

1.5.2. Red Rock 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 143.194036, -37.229445

Approach:

From Melbourne take the Western Highway through Beaufort, to Buangor, and a kilometre after this turn right to Warrak. At Warrak turn right onto the Mt Cole Road. After about 8 kilometres driving up the hill through the forest, turn left into McGuiness Road. Then turn left into Ben Nevis Road. A few kilometres up this road you will reach the fire tower at Ben Bevis. About half a kilometre before the fire tower turn left into Ben Nevis track, after a short distance take the right fork and follow a rough road to the car park for Red Rock.

Descent Notes:

From the carpark head north across the top of the slabs to a hang glider wind indicator and several large boulders on your right. Across and below these is a large boulder, and below this is the first of the rap chains. Its a bit tricky to find first time. Three fifty metre abseils will get you to the ground.