North West Region guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

1. North West 9841 in Region
- 1.1. Arapiles 2726 in Crag
  - 1.1.1. Bushranger Bluff 33 in Crag
  - 1.1.2. Declaration Crag Area 45 in Crag
  - 1.1.3. Colosseum Wall Area 42 in Crag
  - 1.1.4. King Rat Area 119 in Crag
  - 1.1.5. Pilot Error Cliffs 57 in Crag
  - 1.1.6. Atridae 57 in Crag
  - 1.1.7. Organ Pipes Area 131 in Crag
  - 1.1.8. Central Gully 409 in Crag
  - 1.1.9. Fang Buttress and Surrounds 151 in Crag
  - 1.1.10. Bard Buttress 25 in Cliff
  - 1.1.11. Bluffs 101 in Crag
  - 1.1.12. Tiger Wall Area 119 in Crag
  - 1.1.13. Castle Crag 32 in Cliff
  - 1.1.14. Grotto Wall 43 in Cliff
  - 1.1.15. Voodoo Area 100 in Crag
  - 1.1.16. The Pharos and Surrounds 370 in Crag
  - 1.1.17. Watchtower Area 220 in Crag
  - 1.1.18. Northern Group 198 in Crag
  - 1.1.19. Far North 174 in Crag
  - 1.1.20. Mitre Rock 115 in Crag
  - 1.1.21. Western Side 185 in Crag
- 1.2. Grampians 6989 in Crag
  - 1.2.1. North Grampians 2575 in Crag
  - 1.2.2. The Black Range 235 in Region
  - 1.2.3. Central Grampians 641 in Crag
  - 1.2.4. Halls Gap Area 696 in Crag
  - 1.2.5. South-Eastern Grampians 803 in Crag
  - 1.2.6. Victoria Range 2039 in Crag
  - 1.2.7. Black Range Granite (near Stawell) 0 in Crag
- 1.3. Mt Hope 60 in Crag
  - 1.3.1. Picnic Ground 13 in Area
  - 1.3.2. Dead Sheep Gully 1 in Area
  - 1.3.3. Suicide Boulders 2 in Area
  - 1.3.4. Suicide Rock 9 in Area
  - 1.3.5. Side Outcrop 24 in Area
  - 1.3.6. The Dark Side 11 in Area
- 1.4. Mt Kooyoora 66 in Crag
  - 1.4.1. Lost Rox 7 in Area
  - 1.4.2. Bitumen Blues Boulders 3 in Area
  - 1.4.3. Melville's Caves 37 in Area
  - 1.4.4. The Courtyard 19 in Area

1. North West 9,841 routes in Region

4 1 2

1 Arapiles, 2 Grampians, 4 Mt Kooyoora

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 142.427950, -35.866651

1.1. Arapiles 2,726 routes in Crag

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Summary:

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.828307, -36.760663

Unique Features And Strengths:

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Description:

Heading towards Arapiles and starting to see it clearly for the first time, you will not have been alone if you feel a little disappointed. For taken from a distance Arapiles looks like a pile of choss.

It is the closer inspection that yields a glimpse of the true magic of Arapiles. For this is when Arapiles reveals itself. The beautiful rich golden and gray sandstone, hard and solid. The labyrinth of small gullies and hidden faces, the technical and varied climbing.

Added to this is that the true heart of Australian climbing resides at Arapiles and in particular the campground we call The Pines.

One of the greatest qualities Arapiles has, is its appeal to climbers of all abilities. It must be one of the few crags in the world which offers incredible quality routes at all grades.

The rock quality is such that even the easiest routes involve good rock and beautifully formed holds, a rarity at most crags. In the 'Experienced' range (approx grades 19-24) Arapiles is particularly blessed. It is only from grade 25 upwards that bolts start to kick in. Again the routes that are 25+ are incredibly good.

Climbing at Arapiles is a mixture of superb rock and technical moves on often steep and spectacular ground. Arapiles is the ideal place to become a more proficient trad climber. Arapiles is also very accessible, there are over 2000 routes all within easy walking distance.

One of the greatest things about Arapiles, which draw so many people to it apart from climbing, is the social scene. At popular times of the year the Pines campground can be very crowded, which some people may not like, but it is a good thing, because the atmosphere it creates is very social and friendly. You can turn up without a climbing partner, and be almost guaranteed to meet someone to climb with. It is great for meeting fantastic people from all over the globe.

There is so much more to say on this crag, Australia's premier crag, but that waits for you to discover it.

Access Issues:

State Park

Approach:

300km west of Melbourne.

Driving is your best bet. Public Transport is available- catch the train to Ballarat, bus to Horsham. From Horsham it is easy to hitch a lift or take a feeder bus that runs daily out to Arapiles.

Where To Stay:

The Pines Campground is situated at the base of Arapiles, with water and toilets. Suitable for long and short term camping. More luxurious accommodation can be found in Natimuk i.e. Backpackers or Bed and Breakfast establishments. There is a campground at Lake Natimuk which has showers. Showers are also available at the Natimuk Pub for $5.

Ethic:

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1.1. Bushranger Bluff 33 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Trad,Top Rope
Long/Lat: 141.845969, -36.766948
Description:: The outcrop at Arapiles' far south-eastern end. A popular area for beginners.
Approach:: Drive along the summit road and the park on the right where the sign points to 'Melville's Cave'. From there it's a short, easy walk to the crag.

1.1.2. Declaration Crag Area 45 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Trad,Top Rope and Boulder
Long/Lat: 141.851749, -36.766707
Description:: The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area of beginners.
Approach:: Either drive 600m down the road from the campsite and park close to the base of the crag or walk along the path that starts near the toilet block.

1.1.3. Colosseum Wall Area 42 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Trad,Top Rope and Sport
Long/Lat: 141.848087, -36.764661
Description:: Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

1.1.4. King Rat Area 119 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.846231, -36.763169
Description:: A bit of a labyrinth, but worth exploring. Good on a hot day.
Approach:: 10 minutes from the camping ground.

1.1.5. Pilot Error Cliffs 57 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.846505, -36.762600
Description:: The gullies and walls in between the Atridae and King Rat Gully.
Approach:: 5 minute walk from the campground.

1.1.6. Atridae 57 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.846203, -36.762109
Description:: The big, prominent block up and left behind the camp ground.
Approach:: 5 minutes from the camp ground.

1.1.7. Organ Pipes Area 131 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.845129, -36.761184
Approach:: Short walk from the camping ground.

1.1.8. Central Gully 409 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Trad,Top Rope and other styles
Long/Lat: 141.842627, -36.758900
Description:: The broad gully slightly W (Right) of the camping ground.
Approach:: 5-15 minutes walk from the camping ground.

1.1.9. Fang Buttress and Surrounds 151 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Trad,Boulder and other styles
Long/Lat: 141.845233, -36.758377
Approach:: A short walk from the camping ground. Head towards the big bluff.

1.1.10. Bard Buttress 25 routes in Cliff

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.845526, -36.757230
Approach:© (koala): Note that a number of routes which actually climb the SE part of 'Bard Buttress' are not described here, but are instead under the Ali's area (found in the "Fang Buttress and Surrounds" section). They are put in that section because they start as for Ali's, at the top of the gully which divides 'Fang Buttress' from the 'Bard Buttress', and then head a bit right from there. As a result, this page describes all routes which are accessed from the gully itself or further right. The gully is fairly simple to scramble up and down, but there's several spots where you really don't want to fall off due to very nasty fall potential.

Several routes finish on the Bard Terrace, which is about 30m below the top of the buttress. To get off the Terrace you can do the final pitch of one of the other routes, but it's quickest to do an easy but very exposed walk/traverse off the left end of the ledge, which leads you into Ali's after about 40m. This traverse is often soloed but roping up for it isn't a bad idea.

To descend from the routes which go right to the top, you need to do a short little downclimb off the back of the buttress, which deposits you very close to Ali's cave. Then go through the cave, R around John's Pinnacle and down Ali's.
Descent Notes:: From the top of the buttress there's a short down-climb off the back of the buttress to Ali's cave. Go through the cave and come out at John's Pinnacle. Go R and down Ali's. There are chains to rap down (45m). Or it's a fairly easy, but in places exposed, scramble down Ali's.

For routes that finish at the Bard terrace you can either climb Bard's 5th pitch or traverse L off the end of the terrace (roping up recommended) and scramble down to Ali's.

1.1.11. Bluffs 101 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.844569, -36.756917
Description:: Bluff Major and Bluff Minor are the two huge blocks perched above Tiger Wall.
Approach:: Via Ali's or a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

1.1.12. Tiger Wall Area 119 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Trad,Boulder
Long/Lat: 141.844903, -36.756041

1.1.13. Castle Crag 32 routes in Cliff

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Summary:: Trad,Sport and Top Rope
Long/Lat: 141.843951, -36.755185
Description:: The detached pinnacle standing well away from the main cliff. Directly in front of Grotto Wall.
Approach:: 10 min walk from campground, heading N.
Descent Notes:: 20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.

1.1.14. Grotto Wall 43 routes in Cliff

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.843510, -36.755700
Description:: The buttress directly behind Castle Crag.
Descent Notes:: Scramble down the back of the gully behind Grotto Wall (Pan Grove). 20m abseil from the rap station on the big chockstone.

1.1.15. Voodoo Area 100 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.842156, -36.754836

1.1.16. The Pharos and Surrounds 370 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.840995, -36.753541

1.1.17. Watchtower Area 220 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.838505, -36.751497
Description:© (secretary): One of the most impressive sheer walls at the mountain. Contains many three star multi-pitch classics - some of the best routes 'Arapiles' has to offer.
Approach:© (secretary): The very obvious face about 1km from the campsite heading west.

1.1.18. Northern Group 198 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.834837, -36.749740
Description:© (willmonks): Status : All climbs are in with descriptions. Topos urgently needed.

1.1.19. Far North 174 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.833416, -36.748160

1.1.20. Mitre Rock 115 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.832048, -36.737048
Description:© (koala): Status : All climbs are in. Topos to come.

1.1.21. Western Side 185 routes in Crag

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Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 141.816650, -36.754536

1.2. Grampians 6,989 routes in Crag

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1 2 7 4 3 6 5

1 North Grampians, 2 The Black Range, 3 Central Grampians, 4 Halls Gap Area, 5 South-Eastern Grampians, 6 Victoria Range, 7 Black Range Granite (near Stawell)

Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 142.376338, -37.265302
Unique Features And Strengths:: Some of the best climbing in a Australia in a beautiful environment, often in great solitude.
Description:: For many climbers, memories of the Grampians are like memories of paradise. The warm winter sun, breathtaking sunsets lighting up Taipan Wall and sore tips from hard days. The Grampians are beautiful and the climbing reflects this. The solitude, routes that offer variety and adventure, these are the hallmarks of the Grampians.

The Grampians offer some of the most spectacular and high quality climbing in Australia. The beautiful thing about the Grampians is that it offers so much choice, there is plenty of good easier climbing in fantastic locations, and also probably the best hard routes in the land. When you talk about climbing in the Grampians you are referring to a multitude of crags and thousands of routes. There are a core of popular crags regularly visited, then there are a host of areas that are lucky to be visited more than once a year. The most popular crags are the ones with a combination of good access and a large amount of top routes. Among the most popular areas are 'Mt Stapylton' (which incorporates a number of crags like the enormously popular 'Summerday Valley', 'The Ampitheatre'[11979139] and 'Taipan Wall'), 'Mt Rosea' (loads of quality multipitch routes) and 'Bundaleer' (an intimidating summer crag). Apart from this there is a plethora of marginally less important crags, all of which offer fantastic climbing.

Sport climbing is limited in the Grampians (although what there is, is of fantastic quality), there are three or four main areas, 'The Gallery' (steep thuggery of perfect orange sandstone), 'Millenium Caves'[13001335] (very steep flawless rock with committing runouts), 'Van Diemens Land'[12976261] (great fun) and 'Spurt Wall' (funky fun at the end of 'Taipan Wall'). Sport climbing in the Grampians begins at grade 22, so you want to be fairly competent.

Like Arapiles the trad climbing is very good, and generally the gear is exceptionally solid, there is often the occasional bolt. The harder routes to tend to be mainly on bolts. While you are here it is essential to check out Taipan Wall, unquestionably the best piece of rock in the land.

Climbing in the Grampians is generally less accessible than Arapiles, you will need to have a partner (there is no meeting someone here, unless you are lucky) and a car to get around in. The one benefit of being less accessible is that the Grampians is more of a wilderness experience. Bouldering has recently exploded in the Grampians, and there are loads of great problems to be found, including some of the hardest in the world. Bouldering is a good option if you are here in winter. All up the Grampians is a wonderful place, deserving of a decent stay. You will love it!
Access Issues:: National Park
Approach:: 235km west of Melbourne. Driving is best. You can catch a train to Ballarat, then bus to Halls Gap. The only problem is that once you are there there is no way to get around unless you hire a car, or know someone that has one.
Where To Stay:: There are campgrounds throughout the Grampians. Most do have fees, but they are generally very reasonable.

Also a range of accommodation (cabins, B&B, backpackers, motels, etc) in Halls Gap and the other villages around the National Park.