Routes as top rope in Victoria

A coupla tricky moves. Sorta average but probably worth investing a bolt in, for anyone so inclined. Start 3m L of CG then join it at half height.

80m left of PM. Two move wonder. Up wall on edges to bulging smooth section. Desperatly up this on small crimpers to juggy top. Top-rope only.

The L-most line on the wall takes the far L edge of the steep band of rock. Bolt anchors on the ledge. Has currently only been top-roped.

Link up of 'Rush' and 'Was It Worth It?'

This route has no protection at all and has probably never been led. An interesting top rope exercise the grade depending on how directly you climb it.

Start as for 'Rush'. Blast over bulge and continue up the wall.

Starts 3m right of “Labour Day”. Up wall past small feature, following cleanest rock to highest point.

Project. No bolts please.

Starts 1m left of landmark corner of “Out of Lockdown”. Climbs direct up the wall to blank slab above ledge height. Tend right to join “Return to Lockdown” for the final few metres.

Project. No bolts please.

Starts 2m right of “Out of Lockdown”. Up arete of block and up to ledge. From ledge, up the main face to top.

Project. No bolts please.

Start up Sleigh Ride to where the crack turns left, then head straight up.

Right ramp leading up to arête. Starts 1m right of Babysitters Delight.

Around right of TT is another little face with a couple of edges up to it.

Rap off at far right side of echo point lookout. Climb is a ramp going from right to left (looking out) and the brown streak at the top is approximately middle of the climb. Rap in to ledge follow obvious diagonal line. No pro, good holds

Starts one metre left of The Pintle start. Up the arete, avoiding the crack on the right, to the large belay ledge below The Pintle Left Hand Variant.

About 10m past stumper jumper and 5m before the fatties is an obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney which goes up about 10m and then trends right, finishing with a short fist size crack. Would require very large pro to lead.

The line on the far left of the slab. Straight up through the slipperiness.

The centre line. Start as for Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then follow the line of little vertical seams/cracks. A direct start was done using the trees and a big edge at a grade of 21, but it's not known if the trees are still there.

Pockets don't get any better than these! Start up Grimpeuse de la Nuit and then traverse right until you get to the line of pockets.

The first small slab between two cracks. Start in centre, go left to a big edge, up over bulge, then right to join Straight Up.

As the name implies, straight up.

On the main slab is an obvious white water streak. Follow this over the steepening and past some dubious flakes. No protection!

The short crack at the left end of the Flake Off wall is a "muck around boulder problem".

The clean black water streak in the centre of the slab.

The wall to the left of Obelisk. Feel free to bolt it.

Top rope from tree house anchor. Head up right of tree house (right of tree) up the arete then take to shelf back to end at tree house.

Easy climbing apart from boulder problem underneath the shelf. Start to the right of Quartz Ridge, then head to the right once you reach the first platform about 1.5-2m up the route. Climb up to underside of prominent shelf, then complete a V3 boulder move starting underneath the right side of the shelf to join back onto the arete and finsish as you would for Quartz Ridge.

About 4m left of watershed is an obvious juggy overhang which leads to a slab/arete finish. Choss with some cool moves.

Start 2m left of the arete. Up and follow left tending line avoid using holds on project 1. Bolts to come

Fun little kiddie climb sticking to the left of the Slab. Use double U-bolts set back from the edge.

Can be used as a Abseil

Nice kiddie climb with a good sense of exposure.

Start same as Moss Monster. Once onto middle ledge following the right side of the slab and then curve back to the anchors

For now use the same anchors as Moss Monster and in the future this climb may have it's own anchors

Can be used for Abseiling.

Start 1m right of Lion Heart and head straight up to finish at the U bolt anchors in the middle of the protruding block

Still in development

up the arete, top rope or trad with very few placements on the first section

on north west side of bridge, straight up on right hand side of bee hive and tree

Start 2m left of U2 and climb straight up past a good hold on the left circled by a pale yellow graffiti letter 'O'.

Start on the slabby ramp above the terrace. Follow the line of chopped bolts left of the arete. Harder if you don't use the arete.

The corner right of U2.

Line follows 4 chopped U-bolts anchor on the bridge.

Start the climb clipped to the 3rd bolt of (UK). Lower back down to the the ledge to begin. Step right ignoring any holds used in (UK) and follow the obvious drill holes along the arch, pulling up along tight crimps and strange side pulls, eventually moving directly up to the first bolt of (Mystic Kazoo). Finish as for (Mystic Kazoo). (Tricky to do with no bolts).

Climb the first 3 bolts of UK then pull in to the right and clip the new bolt.

Follow nice crimpy line to next bolt, then technical moves until pulling up into the anchors.

Best to have someone follow up to clean the route, unless you're in the mood for a big swing. (Tricky to do with no bolts).

Climb straight up thru protruding blocks low down moving right at the top.

Thin moves up a seemingly blank face with a small vertical crack.

Up to a shallow corner moving left at the top.

Climb directly up the sandy coloured rap-line.

The line goes up between Number two and Wodka, all the way to the small V at the top overhang. Sit/squat start as low as possible, move to hand size square jug, follow vertical edge to a couple spread out jugs, (be careful I minimised usage of holds from Wodka, we only used one), then crimp up to small overhang and through the small V. Top out is optional but must finish standing ontop of overhang.

Note: If you use no holds from either climb it might be considered a 16.

Start off a granite platform below a thick crystal dike.

The 2 BR were hammered flat around the time climbing was banned at The Look-out.

Climbs in between 'Lizard's Lair' and 'Busting for Relief'. Be sure not to cross the brown streak to the left and don't use to flake to the right. Thin climbing.

Climbs between 'Busting for Relief' and 'Harpic'. Directly up thin face in brown streak below flake. When the flake is reached, climb directly over the top of it.

Starts at spiky bush. Climbs up for a few metres and then starts tending right

Nice easy face for kids to top rope on north east side of pinnacle. 2BB on top.

This climb almost matches the original description of Clean Filling, but you can be assured it is not. Good top-rope problem. This is the thin seam just R of the obvious corner/roof crack.

8m R of SD, hard move of the ground to the sickle and slab above. No pro

Incorrectly written up as Straining Rail which is located downhill on the Chain buttress. Northwest Vic guide in 2000 only recorded the routes Sze and Drain Pipe and mentioned a few lines to the right of the later on this face.

Very popular beginners climb. Could be Trad but very poor pro. Start in the corner on L (It's cheating to use the big boulder behind you) and then head straight up the wall.

Traverse seam right then head up thin edges to DRB at the top.

Obvious vertical then stepped crack. Good climbing.

Fairly blank wall between the obvious lines. Bring your chisel tips!

Beautiful rock... shame its so short. Seam to blunt arête.

Climb wall in between Sophie and NKiT. No pro. (BR have ben chopped)

Up wall between Lady Jayne and Vision of Fools without straying into either

Climb directly up to left hand ring bolt at top starting 2m left of TR2. Finish left of a carrot bolt which is set just left of a vertical seam at the top.

Top Rope route straight up to finish just right of right hand ring bolt. There are some chopped bolts en route and you should pass an oddly placed carrot set in an alcove just to your right near the top.

The face between the 2 commandments direct.

A lot of this route might be Graven Image but the TR version is direct. Start below the large accumulation of guano at half height as per Graven Image then directly up passing through or just to the right of the peregrine's commode. Finishes midway between the 2 leftmost U-bolts on top (looking out).

2nd route climbed on The Pap. The dusty corner falls down as quickly as you climb it. It takes a certain mindset. Release your inhibitions, cast off your preconceptions and embrace the esoteric pleasure of top roping choss. Then cool off in one of the splendid rockpools nearby.

The crumbling arete right of DRN.

The broken wall immediately right of and avoiding the arete of ZMATLR. This wall will probably be more broken after you have climbed it than before. Nothing unidentified about those flying objects!

5m right of UFO there is another short very broken wall with an obviousb X crack system in the upper half. Climb the snaking left side of the X. Hands in crack only. Careful, it may lay some eggs if you aren't gentle with it....

The right hand twin of the crack system. As for Whitesnake, hands in crack only. Yes these are eliminate lines. And unlike the song she's not rock steady (Bam-ba-lam)!

Bit contrived but if you have a rope on the anchors it’s a fun problem

Fun sustained climb with crux over the small roof (LHS variant is slightly harder)

Top climb and best route I've seen at this crag. Start with your feet just above the water and pull through the first roof on the RHS before crossing to the smaller roof on the LHS and finishing up the nose. We set up a toppy with trad gear.

Easy corner, perfect for beginners or your first crack at abseiling down for access. Good shelf for standing right at river level. Have to fight through a bit of veg.

Climb the lovely face right of Naughty not in Trouble. If you're using the same anchor watch out for the sideways rope drag.