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Psycho Ant Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 17

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A fairly tall steepish wall, with a wide chimney on the left side, and a horizontal break at head height. Don't worry about the giant ants with big fangs that come leaping towards you across the mat, they just want to play. Described R to L.

© (pete_w)

Access issues inherited from Wagstaffe - Bouldering

If you heading out to this area please respect the privacy of the local residents. This area is within Bouddi National Park. Rangers have threatened to confiscate climbing gear from those using Lobster Cave and it best to keep a low profile.

Ethic inherited from Wagstaffe - Bouldering

If using ropes, please protect trees and rock. Only clean what you intend to climb

©

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Makes a good problem into a classic. Sit start the crack right of the arête, throw up to the slopey break and then across left to the arête. Blast up.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

The steep left hand arête. Start lowish on the slopey break and sidpull around the corner.

Prance up the arête to tricky topout.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Stand (jump?) start 2 m left of right arête, from large(ish) sidepull. 2 big moves to the top. Was going to be Lofty's pride and joy until he ripped of a good gaston hold on the first move. Sit start to come?

FA: Jason Piper, 2000

Start on right hand side of wall, staying off the arête. Straight up off progressively larger holds.

FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000

Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line.

FA: Jason Smith, 2000

Small roof/arête on the next wall left of the chimney. Slopey top out.

FA: Jason Piper, 2000

Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out.

FA: Sam Healy

Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm'

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Thu 20 Apr
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