A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Thompson's Cove 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 116.657094, -35.050173

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the most secluded and beautiful climbing areas in WA.

Description:

The climbing is quite short, however, there are some amazing crack climbs, as well as face and slab climbing. A 25 m rope, quickdraws and a set of nuts and cams are required.

Access Issues:

Climbing and camping is located in a wilderness area. National Park rangers request you notify them prior and at completion of trip

Approach:

Follow the Western Highway west from Walpole for 7 km before turning left onto Tinglewood Road. Park at trail head for the Bibbulum Trail. Take any of the trails that lead to the suspension bridge across the Deep River. Cross river and continue along trail for 1.5 to 2 hours, until a dieback shoe cleaning station is reached. DO NOT follow Bibbulum signs to the right, but instead continue along 4WD track for another 30 - 40 minutes until you reach a turn off with a 'Thompon's Cove' sign pointing left. Walk down the trail, past the Peppermints Camp, and down to the beach. Trail isn't obvious.

The climbing area is reached from the beach by walking along the western rocky shoreline to a set of large 5 m high boulders, with a distinct rocky path between them. Climb this slope, and find the cairn off to the right marking an indistinct trail. Follow this for 80-100 m until you reach a large boulder with a smaller boulder on top. Climb down here to the rock platform, and continue west to find the climbs.

Where To Stay:

Camp-sites can be found at Thompson's Cove. There is a freshwater stream and plenty of whiting swimming in the water.

Ethic:

Please adhere to minimal impact camping practices, do not go to the toilet near the stream, and carry all rubbish away with you.

1.1. The Terrace 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.657468, -35.051126

Description:

The first section of the cliff. Routes are described from east to west.

Descent Notes:

Laid Back provides a convenient descent option. All anchors require trad gear. THERE ARE NO BOLTED ANCHORS

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Laid Back

The easy way to the top.... and bottom

5 Trad 5m
2 Top Rope Slab

The blank face requiring pure friction.

23 Top rope 7m
3 Private Eye

Short but pleasant line up the obvious clean crack in the low angled corner.

FA: A. Rokich,R. Campbell, 1990

14 Trad 7m
4 Where is the Playgound Susie?

The left trending, shallow groove line 10 m left of Private Eye. Minimum pro, serious lead.

FA: G. Brysland,R. Campbell, 1990

17 Trad 7m
5 * Swinging Detectives

The thin, left trending crack line. Follow crack left and finish up vertical crack. Well protected.

FA: R. Campbell,I. Arnaud, 1990

17 Trad 10m
6 Lost and Found

The corner/crack. Sometimes wet.

FA: C. Taylor,R. Campbell, 1990

12 Trad 12m
7 ** Under Cover

Excellent face climbing on delicate holds following line of FH.

FA: S. Aegerter, 1996

22 Sport 14m, 5

1.2. Cinema Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.656571, -35.051106

Description:

Cinema Wall is the obvious open book corner wall with a very large (unclimbed) boulder to its left side. It is the most impressive part of the wall, and the main attraction of the area. The rock is of high quality.

Approach:

Continue along rock platform west from The Terrace

Descent Notes:

All anchors require trad gear. THERE ARE NO BOLTED ANCHORS

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Picture Show

Climb up rightward leaning crack on right side of Cinema Wall. Start left of small roof and up to horizontal break. Climb seam past 2 bolts and then arete to finish.

FFA: S. Richardson, 1996

24 Mixed 20m, 2
2 ** Hi-Wire

The thin line running right midway from Hey Joe crack.

FFA: G. Brysland, 1990

22 Trad 20m
3 *** Hey Joe

The crag classic! Climb corner crack to sustained laybacking and jamming. Well protected

FFA: S. Rewell, R. Campbell, 1990

18 Trad 20m
4 *** Golden Vein

Another classic route following a technical golden vein of fixed hangers. Beware, bolts may be rusted. There are visible rust stains coming out of bolts down rock. May need to be re-bolted,

FFA: S. Richardson, 1996

26 Sport 25m, 6
5 ** Totally Total

The crack/flake line at left edge of Cinema Wall.

FFA: G. Brysland, A. Rokich, 1990

18 Trad 20m

1.3. Phoenix Walls 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.656117, -35.050588

Description:

Located further left of The Cinema Wall there is more climbing, and probably even more first ascents to be had!

Approach:

Continue past the large boulder on the left side of The Cinema Wall, along a narrow (and slippery) sloping ledge.

Descent Notes:

All anchors require trad gear. THERE ARE NO BOLTED ANCHORS

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheezgrater

Find the big obvious crack next to a very pointy boulder on the west facing cliff. It doesn't look overhung, but it is. It looks smooth, but it isn't. Just follow crack until you start to bleed, Continue to loose blood, and when you can't possibly loose any more blood, continue until you reach the top. Tape recommended.

FA: A. Pitchford, 1991

20 Trad 20m
2 By the Time We Get to Phoenix

Starts about 15 m left of Cheezgrater. Climb short chimney, 3 m right of obvious corner crack. Move right and follow the vanishing crack line to slabby finish.

FA: G. Brysland,I. Arnaud, 1990

15 Trad 15m
3 * Zeepaard

Start 2m left of chimney and climb face, past four bolts to roof and go right to top out.

FA: S. Aegerter, 1996

23 Sport 15m, 4
4 ** Zeepaard Direct

Start as for Zeepaard, but go straight over the roof directly.

FFA: S. Aegerter, 1996

24 Sport 15m, 4

Lower Phoenix Level

Scramble down the easy (?) low angled slab to reach the level below Phoenix Wall

5 Cheap Trick

The lay back corner crack on the left of the low angled descent slab.

FA: M. Sales, 1991

17 Trad 7m
6 Tweeky

The short lay back corner crack in the back left hand side of the mini amphitheatre

FA: R. Campbell,A. Rokich, 1990

14 Trad 5m
7 * Squeaky

The face and thin crack cline

FA: A. Rokich,R. Campbell, 1990

19 Trad 6m
8 Squiggle

The left hand corner crack

FA: A. Rokich,R. Campbell, 1990

17 Trad 6m
9 Wiggley

The short crack 6 m left of Squiggle.

FA: R. Campbell,A. Rokich, 1990

14 Trad 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Laid Back Trad 5m 1.1. The Terrace
12 Lost and Found Trad 12m 1.1. The Terrace
14 Private Eye Trad 7m 1.1. The Terrace
Tweeky Trad 5m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
Wiggley Trad 6m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
15 By the Time We Get to Phoenix Trad 15m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
17 * Swinging Detectives Trad 10m 1.1. The Terrace
Where is the Playgound Susie? Trad 7m 1.1. The Terrace
Cheap Trick Trad 7m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
Squiggle Trad 6m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
18 *** Hey Joe Trad 20m 1.2. Cinema Wall
** Totally Total Trad 20m 1.2. Cinema Wall
19 * Squeaky Trad 6m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
20 Cheezgrater Trad 20m 1.3. Phoenix Walls
22 ** Under Cover Sport 14m, 5 1.1. The Terrace
** Hi-Wire Trad 20m 1.2. Cinema Wall
23 Top Rope Slab Top rope 7m 1.1. The Terrace
* Zeepaard Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Phoenix Walls
24 ** Picture Show Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. Cinema Wall
** Zeepaard Direct Sport 15m, 4 1.3. Phoenix Walls
26 *** Golden Vein Sport 25m, 6 1.2. Cinema Wall