Topo #8587 - Elephant's trunk

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 * Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses

Start 15m left of Hannibal. 1) 47m (18): Up past 11 bolts then gear (0.5 cam) in the corner L of Hannibal. DBB. 2) 30m (10): Continue up blocks to top.

18 Mixed 77m 2, 11 Unlink route
2 Saracen

As for Hannibal to the third bolt, then left and up the crack on the side of the elephant's trunk and head.

19 Mixed 82m 3, 3 Unlink route
3 *** Hannibal

An excellent and sustained climb straight up the middle of the trunk. Protected with six bolts (hangers needed), wired and cams. 1) 40m (20): Straight up the slab of the elephant's trunk, with carrot bolts and natural gear. From second bolt, continue past three more bolts to reach overlap. DBB on ledge above the overlap. 2) 30m (17): Continue straight up. No pro for the first 8m. Finish up water runnel at rear of sloping ledge and belay near the bushes. Scramble to top.

20 Mixed 70m 2, 6 Unlink route
4 * Lector Connector

This is a variation to the finish of Hannibal. It has a longer first pitch and a great position up the side of the 'trunk'. 1) 50m (20): As for Hannibal to the 5th bolt, then diagonally right past 4 FHs to rap anchor. 2) 30m (18): Up steep slab trending right past 2 FHs then scramble to the top.

20 Mixed 80m 2, 9 Unlink route
5 Trick or Treat

Better than it looks! Starts about 15m right of Hannibal below a series of water pockets. 1) 42m (14): Follow pockets up the base of the wall forming the right side of the trunk. Move tight around the corner and continue for 8m and build belay in vegetated crack at the base of the wall on the left. 2) 20m (16): Continue up slab just left of wall until the angle steepens the move right up slab to reach right trending crack. Follow crack to overlap and straight up sloping ramp and belay. Scramble to top.

16 Trad 90m 2 Unlink route
6 * Where Eagles Dare

Water streak 10m right of Trick or Treat. Need plates for 8 bolts, belays are U-bolts. Clips can be exciting 1) 30m (18): Slab past 7 carrot bolts to DBB. 2) 30m (18): Slab past 8 carrot bolts to DBB. 3) 25m (14): Up past 5 bolts to DBB.

18 Sport 90m 3, 8 Unlink route

Topo #8586 - Right-hand slab

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Route Grade Popularity Style
6 * Where Eagles Dare

Water streak 10m right of Trick or Treat. Need plates for 8 bolts, belays are U-bolts. Clips can be exciting 1) 30m (18): Slab past 7 carrot bolts to DBB. 2) 30m (18): Slab past 8 carrot bolts to DBB. 3) 25m (14): Up past 5 bolts to DBB.

18 Sport 90m 3, 8 Unlink route
7 * Granitarium

Nice slab climbing with carrot bolts and a few medium cams. Starts 20m right of Where Eagles Dare and 30m left of Dream Weaver. First pitch is the only good one. Hangers required. 1) 30m (17): Up slab past 5 bolts to short L-trending cracks (medium cams), then to DBB. 2) 30m (13): Up mossy slap past 4 more bolts to left facing corner. Continue up corner to more bolts and natural pro to DBB. 3) 27m (11): Mostly trad with a trad belay.

17 Sport 85m 3, 6 Unlink route

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