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Description

The slab leading to a long ledge at half height, below The Terrace, Head Wall and Main Face.

Access issues inherited from Mount Franklin

The area boasts some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Franklin. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.

Approach

From the Elephant, contiune along tourist trail for about 100m.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 ** Dream Weaver Mixed 95m 3, 8

A well protected, sustained and enjoyable face. Start up black slab 10m L of Ian's Lost Chance. Bolts (hangers required) plus medium nuts and cams.

  1. 35m (16): Up right trending cracks (nut placements) and up slab past 7 bolts to sloping ledge and DBB.

  2. 35m (16): Up left to overlap to bulge then continue right following bolts. Up dinner plate holds to ledge and DBB.

  3. 25m (12): Trend left past natural pro to short headwall and up slab. 4 bolts to DBB.

Need 8 bolt plates and 9 draws plus nuts.

Descent note: Can be done with a 60m rope, although last rap is 31m . Otherwise walk to top of mountain.

FA: R. Weiter & D. Pantic, 2003

2
15 Ian's Lost Chance Trad 90m 2
  1. 40m (14): The vegetated right-trending gully and crack.

  2. 50m (15): Traverse left then up the flaring crack.

FA: K. Vos & J. Hurn, 1992

3
18 ** Stoned Alone Sport 80m 2, 10

Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance. Need 9 bolt plates and 10 draws.

  1. 40m (15): Start 10m left of Free Burma and same as start for Lambs to the Slaughter. Up easy slab and cross Ian's Lost Chance on a slabby bridge. Continue up slab, trending left to DBB at rings below a steeper wall. 7 bolts

  2. 40m (18): L and up the vertical wall. Continue up easy ground to DBB at rings.

Descend as Dream Weaver.

FA: R. Weiter & N. Gledhill, 2010

4
19 *** Well Stoned Sport 75m 2, 9
  1. 35m (15): Start as for Stoned Alone to last bolt, then trend right to belay at rings.

  2. 40m (19): Straight up steep face then easier ground to belay at rings.

FA: R. Weiter, H. Carrad & J. Iles, 2012

5
14 * Lambs To The Slaughter Sport 50m, 3

Start below the gully of 'Ian's Lost Chance' as for Stoned Alone. R-trending diagonal slab climbing formed by a dyke crossing the lower slab up to The Terrace.

FA: M. Gidding & D. Moyses, 1991

6
16 * Free Burma Mixed 160m 4, 8

Probably the longest route possible at Mount Frankland. Useful to reach The TerraceThe first pitch is a good access route to The Terrace.

  1. 48m (16): Straight up past 5 bolts and natural gear to DBB and rap anchor on The Terrace.

  2. 27m (14): From left side of The Terrace, climb straight up for 3m to a bolt then traverse left along weakness towards and obvious indentation. Move up to another bolt, and continue up slightly leftward to belay on left side of Wreckage Ledge (using single bolt + natural gear).

  3. 50m (10): Straight up, trending slightly left for 50m. Belay in a convenient crack. All natural gear.

  4. 35m (4): Solo to top

FA: D. Moyses, M. Gidding, D. Wagland, G. Phillips & K. Langley, 1991

7
18 * Free Willy Sport 38m, 11

Start 5m right of Free Burma. Very well protected. 11 bolts (hangers needed). Lower off 2m right of Free Burma lower-offs.

FA: R. Weiter, H. Carrad & J. Iles, 2012

8
17 * Burmese Tiger Sport 38m, 10

Start 15m R of Free Burma. 10 bolts (hangers required).

FA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2009

9
16 * Purring Pussies Sport 36m, 9

he white water streak 10m R of Burmese Tiger. 9 bolts (hangers required. Can be mossy and wet.

FA: R. Weiter & D. Rao, 2009

10

Walk past main wall for a further 2 mins till you are bellow an obvious roof flake 20m above path. Gear through roof, then 3 bolts.

FA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999