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Description

Vertical wall above the middle section of the Lower Slabs.

Access issues inherited from Mount Franklin

The area boasts some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Franklin. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.

Approach

Can be reached via Wreckage Ledge, by traversing further left around the base of the head wall (grade 12 and protectable). Move right and slightly downward to follow a smaller ledge for about 10m until you are bellow a large roof and the start of the climbs.

Alternatively, climb What Would You Rather...? or Drop Bears Garden to reach the start of Frankenstein and Dread Head.

Descent Notes

New rap anchors have been added to the top of the Head Wall due to suspect bolt condition.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 ** Quite Frankly Mixed 30m, 3

Start from a semi-hanging belay beneath large roof. Up through the roof on big holds and climb face above.

FA: S. Richardson & A. Rokich, 1992

2
19 *** Skippy Goes Splat Trad 35m 2

A crag classic. Exposed and juggy up the obvious crack system 3m right of Quite Frankly. Set up hanging belay under overhanging blocks below crack.

  1. 20m (19): Climb overhanging blocky knobs and crack with increasing exposure. A hard move to exit crack, then go straight up to belay on ledge. #4 friend useful for pro.

  2. 30m (14): Climb up the blocks on left edge of ledge to finish on summit.

FA: A. Rokich & D. Moyses, 1991

The next two climbs are found on the right side of The Head Wall. They are either accessed by a long traverse from the left along Wreckage Ledge, or by climbing the first pitch of Drop Bears Garden or What Would You Rather...?

3
24 ** Dread Head Mixed 25m, 3

Great climb! From belay, move up and left 3m and blast up wall past 3 bolts (last bolt needs a hanger) and natural gear. Finish on large flake and move right to belay chain and lower off.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

4
25 *** Frankenstein Mixed 25m, 5

Absolutely brilliant! Climb the slightly overhanging headwall up cracks, through scoops and over the roof to finish at lower-off chains. Well protected with 5 bolts and natural gear.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

5
16 Drop Bears Garden Trad 50m 2

The obvious mossy corner on the right side of The Terrace.

  1. 20m (16): Climb the mossy corner to belay on good rock below vertical crack.

  2. 30m (16): Climb vertical crack and watch it deteriorate into a mossy and wet grovel. Move slightly right to finish

FA: A. Rokich & D. Moyses, 1991