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Vertical wall above the right-hand section of the Lower Slabs.

Access issues inherited from Mount Frankland

The area boasts some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Frankland. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.


Either traverse left along The Terrace or scramble up the right hand side of the West Face.

Descent notes

Will need two 50m ropes to rap down from anchors or climb Old Gnarly to reach summit.


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Grade Route
21 *** Dickheads and Dynosaurs Mixed 45m, 10

Enjoyable and sustained slab climbing. 10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams for the overlaps.

FA: S. Richardson & A. Rokich, 1992

22 *** At the Corner Mixed 45m, 8

A sustained and superb climb starting at small left facing corner. Climb past 8 bolts and various natural gear. #4 friend after second bolt is useful.

FA: G. Brysland & I. Wareing, 1992

20 ** Uncle Gobby Mixed 45m, 3

Fine moves up wall. Start 5m right of At the Corner. Natural gear + 3 bolts. #4 friend useful in overlap protecting final moves.

FA: K. Fleming & G. Brysland, 1992

18 ** Three Card Trick Mixed 45m, 5

Start on left side of dark streak, 6m right of Uncle Goby and climb the right-facing corner, moving left then back right to vague, vertical dyke.

FA: G. Brysland, I. Arnaud & M. Adams, 1991

23 * Dreadless Mixed 45m, 4

Hard start, and easy finish. Small wires + 4 bolts.

FA: S. Richardson, M. Gidding & A. Rokich, 1992

21 *** Cowlick Mixed 45m, 6

Superb face climbing. Small edges and long moves past the first 2 bolts make this climb excellent. The crux is pulling through the final overlap.

FA: A. Rokich & S. Enne, 1991

20 ** Jugular Mixed 45m, 5

Similar, but slightly easier than Cowlick. A flake has gone missing near second bolt, making climb considerably more difficult.

FA: A. Rokich & S. Enne, 1991

18 *** Thieves Like The Sun Mixed 45m, 8

Well protected and good fun. Starts 10m right of Jugular where it is easy to step on the wall. The climb trends left past 7 FHs and some natural gear. Same finish as Jugular once overlap is reached. Traverse 15m right to lower-offs.

FA: R. Wall & G. Brysland, 1992

18 ** Three is the Key Mixed 35m, 6

A popular route as it is relatively sustained and a little run out. A steep bouldery start about 3m right of Thieves Like The Sun.

FA: S. Enne & A. Rokich, 1991

19 ** Stolen Generation Mixed 44m, 2, 4

This route is the rightmost route on the Main Face.

  1. 22m (19): Start at obvious right facing corner 20m up The Terrace. Up crack then ape left across roof on good cams. Continue past various natural pro and a bolt to DBB.

  2. 22m (19): Directly up slab past 4 bolts to slots which take cams. Exit left to DBB.

FA: C. Jones & R. Wall, 2003

15 * Old Gnarly Trad 10m

The rightward diagonal crack on the boulder on the ledge above Jugular. A nice finishing pitch for the Main Face climbs..

FA: D. Wagland, D. Moyses, S. Enne, M. Gidding & A. Rokich, 1991


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