Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

Vertical wall above the right-hand section of the Lower Slabs.

Access issues inherited from Mount Franklin

The area boasts some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Franklin. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.

Approach

Either traverse left along The Terrace or scramble up the right hand side of the West Face.

Descent Notes

Will need two 50m ropes to rap down from anchors or climb Old Gnarly to reach summit.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 *** Dickheads and Dynosaurs Mixed 45m, 10

Enjoyable and sustained slab climbing. 10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams for the overlaps.

FA: S. Richardson & A. Rokich, 1992

2
22 *** At the Corner Mixed 45m, 8

A sustained and superb climb starting at small left facing corner. Climb past 8 bolts and various natural gear. #4 friend after second bolt is useful.

FA: G. Brysland & I. Wareing, 1992

3
20 ** Uncle Gobby Mixed 45m, 3

Fine moves up wall. Start 5m right of At the Corner. Natural gear + 3 bolts. #4 friend useful in overlap protecting final moves.

FA: K. Fleming & G. Brysland, 1992

4
18 ** Three Card Trick Mixed 45m, 5

Start on left side of dark streak, 6m right of Uncle Goby and climb the right-facing corner, moving left then back right to vague, vertical dyke.

FA: G. Brysland, I. Arnaud & M. Adams, 1991

5
23 * Dreadless Mixed 45m, 4

Hard start, and easy finish. Small wires + 4 bolts.

FA: S. Richardson, M. Gidding & A. Rokich, 1992

6
21 *** Cowlick Mixed 45m, 6

Superb face climbing. Small edges and long moves past the first 2 bolts make this climb excellent. The crux is pulling through the final overlap.

FA: A. Rokich & S. Enne, 1991

7
20 ** Jugular Mixed 45m, 5

Similar, but slightly easier than Cowlick. A flake has gone missing near second bolt, making climb considerably more difficult.

FA: A. Rokich & S. Enne, 1991

8
18 ** Thieves Like The Sun Mixed 45m, 8

Well protected and good fun. Starts 10m right of Jugular where it is easy to step on the wall. The climb trends left past 7 FHs and some natural gear. Same finish as Jugular once overlap is reached. Traverse 15m right to lower-offs.

FA: R. Wall & G. Brysland, 1992

9
18 ** Three is the Key Mixed 35m, 6

A popular route as it is relatively sustained and a little run out. A steep bouldery start about 3m right of Thieves Like The Sun.

FA: S. Enne & A. Rokich, 1991

10
19 ** Stolen Generation Mixed 44m 2, 4

This route is the rightmost route on the Main Face.

  1. 22m (19): Start at obvious right facing corner 20m up The Terrace. Up crack then ape left across roof on good cams. Continue past various natural pro and a bolt to DBB.

  2. 22m (19): Directly up slab past 4 bolts to slots which take cams. Exit left to DBB.

FA: C. Jones & R. Wall, 2003

11
15 * Old Gnarly Trad 10m

The rightward diagonal crack on the boulder on the ledge above Jugular. A nice finishing pitch for the Main Face climbs..

FA: D. Wagland, D. Moyses, S. Enne, M. Gidding & A. Rokich, 1991