A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Walpole 62 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.725051, -34.987445

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome climbing in beautiful locations

Description:

There are two climbing areas around Walpole. Mt Franklin, the larger of the two is very easy to access and sports some of the best slab climbing in WA. Thompsons Cove is a 2 hour walk in to some of the most beautiful sea cliffs in WA.

Access Issues:

All climbing is located within National Parks

Approach:

Walpole is 385 km south of Perth or 115 km west of Albany.

Where To Stay:

There are camp sites near both climbing locations

1.1. Mount Franklin 41 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.789001, -34.823469

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mt Franklin is a massive granite dome that rises to 433m above the surrounding Karri Forest.

Description:

Most climbing is slab where you rely on daft footwork, friction and small edges to get you up most routes. However, there is some great face climbing and even a few cracks. The area also boasts some great multi-pitch climbing. Most routes dry quick although those beneath the roof may remain wet for longer. One 70m or two 50m ropes are required to abseil off routes if you are not topping out.

Access Issues:

The area also boast some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Franklin. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.

Approach:

10 minutes from car park.

Where To Stay:

Camping is allowed only at Fenbrook Falls, some 20 minute drive away.

1.1.1. Northern Slabs 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 116.789463, -34.820266

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flash 15Unknown 20m
2 * Leaves in the Gutter 11Unknown 50m
3 * Burning Desires 8Unknown 50m
4 Walking The Plank 11Unknown 50m
5 * Big Head 9Unknown 30m
6 This Bites 11Unknown 30m
7 * Ashes to Ashes 23Unknown 15m

1.1.2. The Elephant 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.787747, -34.825155

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Saracen 19Unknown 82m
2 *** Hannibal 20Unknown 70m
3 Trick or Treat 18Unknown 90m
4 * Granitarium

Takes medium cams

17Sport 85m
5 * Where Eagles Dare 18Sport 90m

1.1.3. Lower Slab 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ian's Lost Chance 15Unknown 90m
2 * Lambs To The Slaughter 14Sport 50m
3 *** Dream Weaver

also takes medium nuts and cams

16Sport 95m
4 * Burmese Tiger 17Sport 38m, 10
5 ** Purring Pussies 15Sport 36m, 9
6 *** Free Willy 18Sport 40m
7 * Free Burma 16Sport 160m

1.1.4. The Terrace 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Well Stoned

Route can be reached from top of Lambs to the Slaughter. Just follow bolts right to belay an start of this route.

19Sport 30m
2 * Three Sheep Twice a Day 18Sport 95m
3 * Prescription Pills 21Unknown 35m
4 *** Butter Fingers 20Unknown 35m
5 *** Silence of The Cams 19Unknown 35m

1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fuzzy Bear 16Unknown 50m
2 ** Crawling From The Wreckage 21Unknown 55m

1.1.6. The Head Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Quite Frankly 20Unknown 30m
2 *** Skippy Goes Splat 19Unknown 35m
3 ** Dread Head 24Unknown 25m
4 *** Frankenstein 25Unknown 25m
5 Drop Bears Garden 16Unknown 50m

1.1.7. Main Face 10 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dickheads and Dynosaurs 21Unknown 45m
2 *** At the Corner 22Unknown 45m
3 ** Uncle Gobby 20Unknown 45m
4 ** Three Card Trick 18Unknown 45m
5 * Dreadless 23Unknown 45m
6 *** Cowlick 21Unknown 45m
7 ** Jugular 19Unknown 45m
8 ** Thieves Like The Sun 18Unknown 45m
9 ** Three is the Key 18Unknown 35m
10 * Old Gnarly 15Unknown 10m

1.2. Thompson's Cove 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 116.657094, -35.050173

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the most secluded and beautiful climbing areas in WA.

Description:

The climbing is quite short, however, there are some amazing crack climbs, as well as face and slab climbing. A 25 m rope, quickdraws and a set of nuts and cams are required.

Access Issues:

Climbing and camping is located in a wilderness area. National Park rangers request you notify them prior and at completion of trip

Approach:

Follow the Western Highway west from Walpole for 7 km before turning left onto Tinglewood Road. Park at trail head. Follow popular tourist track for 7.5 km (2 hours) before reaching the crag.

Where To Stay:

Campsites can be found at Thompson's Cove.

1.2.1. The Terrace 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.657468, -35.051126

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Laid Back 5Trad 5m
2 Top Rope Slab 23Top rope 7m
3 Private Eye 14Trad 7m
4 Where is the Playgound Susie? 17Trad 7m
5 * Swinging Detectives 17Trad 10m
6 Lost and Found 12Trad 12m
7 ** Under Cover 22Sport 14m

1.2.2. Cinema Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.656571, -35.051106

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Picture Show

Climb up rightward leaning crack on right side of Cinema Wall. Start left of small roof and up to horizontal break. Climb seam past 2 bolts and then arete to finish.

FFA: S. Richardson, 1996

24Mixed 20m, 2
2 ** Hi-Wire

The thin line running right midway from Hey Joe crack.

FFA: G. Brysland, 1990

22Trad 20m
3 *** Hey Joe

The crag classic! Climb corner crack to sustained laybacking and jamming. Well protected

FFA: S. Rewell, R. Campbell, 1990

18Trad 20m
4 *** Golden Vein

Another classic route following a technical golden vein of bolts. Beware, bolts are heavily rusted, use judgement as to if they are good.

FFA: S. Richardson, 1990

26Sport 25m
5 ** Totally Total

The crack/flake line at left edge of Cinema Wall.

FFA: G. Brysland, A. Rokich, 1990

18Trad 20m

1.2.3. Phoenix Walls 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.656298, -35.050528

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheezgrater 20Trad 20m
2 By the Time We Get to Phoenix 15Trad 15m
3 * Zeepaard

Start 2m left of chimney and climb face, past four bolts to roof and go right to top out.

FFA: S. Aegerter, 1996

23Mixed 15m, 4
4 ** Zeepaard Direct

Start as for Zeepaard, but go straight over the roof directly.

FFA: S. Aegerter, 1996

24Mixed 15m, 4

1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.656010, -35.050618

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheap Trick 17Trad 7m
2 Tweeky 14Trad 5m
3 * Squeaky 19Trad 6m
4 Squiggle 17Trad 6m
5 Wiggley 14Trad 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Laid Back Trad 5m 1.2.1. The Terrace
8 * Burning Desires Unknown 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
9 * Big Head Unknown 30m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
11 * Leaves in the Gutter Unknown 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
This Bites Unknown 30m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
Walking The Plank Unknown 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
12 Lost and Found Trad 12m 1.2.1. The Terrace
14 * Lambs To The Slaughter Sport 50m 1.1.3. Lower Slab
Private Eye Trad 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Tweeky Trad 5m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
Wiggley Trad 6m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
15 Flash Unknown 20m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
Ian's Lost Chance Unknown 90m 1.1.3. Lower Slab
** Purring Pussies Sport 36m, 9 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Old Gnarly Unknown 10m 1.1.7. Main Face
By the Time We Get to Phoenix Trad 15m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
16 *** Dream Weaver Sport 95m 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Free Burma Sport 160m 1.1.3. Lower Slab
Fuzzy Bear Unknown 50m 1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge
Drop Bears Garden Unknown 50m 1.1.6. The Head Wall
17 * Granitarium Sport 85m 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Burmese Tiger Sport 38m, 10 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Swinging Detectives Trad 10m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Where is the Playgound Susie? Trad 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Cheap Trick Trad 7m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
Squiggle Trad 6m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
18 Trick or Treat Unknown 90m 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Where Eagles Dare Sport 90m 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Free Willy Sport 40m 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Three Sheep Twice a Day Sport 95m 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Thieves Like The Sun Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
** Three Card Trick Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
** Three is the Key Unknown 35m 1.1.7. Main Face
*** Hey Joe Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
** Totally Total Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
19 Saracen Unknown 82m 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Silence of The Cams Unknown 35m 1.1.4. The Terrace
*** Well Stoned Sport 30m 1.1.4. The Terrace
*** Skippy Goes Splat Unknown 35m 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Jugular Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
* Squeaky Trad 6m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
20 *** Hannibal Unknown 70m 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Butter Fingers Unknown 35m 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Quite Frankly Unknown 30m 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Uncle Gobby Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
Cheezgrater Trad 20m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
21 * Prescription Pills Unknown 35m 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Crawling From The Wreckage Unknown 55m 1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge
*** Cowlick Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
*** Dickheads and Dynosaurs Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
22 *** At the Corner Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
** Under Cover Sport 14m 1.2.1. The Terrace
** Hi-Wire Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
23 * Ashes to Ashes Unknown 15m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
* Dreadless Unknown 45m 1.1.7. Main Face
Top Rope Slab Top rope 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
* Zeepaard Mixed 15m, 4 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
24 ** Dread Head Unknown 25m 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Picture Show Mixed 20m, 2 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
** Zeepaard Direct Mixed 15m, 4 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
25 *** Frankenstein Unknown 25m 1.1.6. The Head Wall
26 *** Golden Vein Sport 25m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall