A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Walpole 70 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 116.767232, -34.902333

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome climbing in beautiful locations

Description:

There are two climbing areas around Walpole. Mt Franklin, the larger of the two is very easy to access and sports some of the best slab climbing in WA. Thompsons Cove is a 2 hour walk in to some of the most beautiful sea cliffs in WA.

Access Issues:

All climbing is located within National Parks

Approach:

Walpole is 385 km south of Perth or 115 km west of Albany.

Where To Stay:

There are camp sites near both climbing locations

1.1. Mount Franklin 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.788743, -34.824388

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mt Franklin is a massive granite dome that rises to 433m above sea level, sticking up above the surrounding Karri Forest.

Description:

Most climbing is slab where you rely on daft footwork, friction and small edges to get you up most routes. However, there is some great face climbing and even a few cracks. The area also boasts some great multi-pitch climbing. Most routes dry quick although those beneath the roof may remain wet for longer. One 70m or two 50m ropes are required to abseil off routes if you are not topping out. Most bolts are glue-in carrot bolts (take your own hangers), although bolted belays generally have rings for rapping off.

See 'South Coast Rock' for early climbs, and 'New Routes at Mount Frankland 2nd edition' (http://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/new-routes-at-mount-frankland-rev2.pdf) for more recent climbs.

Access Issues:

The area boasts some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Franklin. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.

Approach:

10 minutes from car park.

Where To Stay:

Camping is allowed only at Fernhook Falls, some 20 minute drive away.

1.1.1. Northern Slabs 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.789221, -34.821331

Description:

Easy to moderate, barely protected slab climbing.

Approach:

Visible through the trees just north of the carpark.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flash 15Trad 20m
2 * Leaves in the Gutter 11Trad 50m
3 * Burning Desires 8Trad 50m
4 Walking The Plank 11Trad 50m
5 * Big Head 9Trad 30m
6 This Bites 11Trad 30m
7 * Ashes to Ashes 23Trad 15m

1.1.2. The Elephant 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.787568, -34.825663

Description:

Includes the elephant's trunk & head, as well as the full-height slab immediately to its right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses

Start 15m left of Hannibal.

  1. Up past 11 bolts then gear in the corner L of Hannibal. DBB.

  2. Continue up blocks to top.

FA: Matt Rosser, Jim Truscott, 2004

18Mixed 77m 2, 11
2 Saracen

As for Hannibal to the third bolt, then left and up the crack on the side of the elephant's trunk and head.

19Mixed 82m 3, 3
3 *** Hannibal
  1. 40m 20 Straight up the slab of the elephant's trunk, with carrot bolts and natural gear to DBB.

  2. 30m 17 Continue straight up. No pro for the first 8m.

FA: @kentpaterson

20Mixed 70m 2, 6
4 * Lector Connector
  1. 50m 20 As for Hannibal to the 5th bolt, then diagonally right past 4 bolts to rap anchor.

  2. 30m 18 Up steep slab trending right past 2 bolts then scramble to the top.

FA: Mark Thake, Jeremy Scott, 2007

20Mixed 80m 2, 9
5 Trick or Treat

The pocketed crack 15m right of Hannibal.

18Trad 90m 2
6 * Where Eagles Dare

Water streak 10m right of 'Trick or Treat'.

  1. 30m 18 Slab past 7 carrot bolts to DBB.

  2. 30m 18 Slab past 8 carrot bolts to DBB.

  3. 25m 14 Up past 5 bolts to DBB.

18Sport 90m 3, 8
7 * Granitarium

Nice slab climbing with carrot bolts and a few medium cams.

  1. 30m 17 Up slab to short L-trending cracks (medium cams), then to DBB.

  2. 30m 13. DBB.

  3. 27m 11. Mostly trad with a trad belay.

17Sport 85m 3, 6

1.1.3. Lower Slab 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 116.787901, -34.826524

Description:

The slab leading to a long ledge at half height, below The Terrace, Head Wall and Main Face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dream Weaver

Start up black slab 10m L of Ian's Lost Chance. Carrot bolts plus medium nuts and cams.

16Sport 95m 3, 8
2 Ian's Lost Chance
  1. 40m 14 The vegetated right-trending gully and crack.

  2. 50m 15 Traverse left then up the flaring crack.

15Trad 90m 2
3 * Stoned Alone

Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance.

  1. 35m 15 Up easy slab and cross Ian's Lost Chance on a slabby bridge. Continue up slab, trending left to DBB at rings below a steeper wall.

  2. 40m 18 L and up the vertical wall. Continue up easy ground to DBB at rings.

18Sport 80m 2, 10
4 *** Well Stoned
  1. 35m 15 As for Stoned Alone to last bolt, then trend right to belay at rings.

  2. 40m 19 Straight up steep face then easier ground to belay at rings.

19Sport 30m, 9
5 * Lambs To The Slaughter

Start below the gully of 'Ian's Lost Chance' as for Stoned Alone. R-trending diagonal slab climbing up to The Terrace.

14Sport 50m, 3
6 * Free Burma

The first pitch is a good access route to The Terrace.

  1. 48m 16 Straight up past 5 bolts and natural gear to DBB and rap anchor.

  2. 27m 14

  3. 50m 10

  4. 35m 4

16Mixed 160m 4, 8
7 *** Free Willy

Start 5m R of Free Burma.

18Sport 40m, 11
8 * Burmese Tiger

Start 15m R of Free Burma.

17Sport 38m, 10
9 ** Purring Pussies

The white water streak 10m R of Burmese Tiger.

15Sport 36m, 9

1.1.4. The Terrace 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.788000, -34.826394

Description:

Almost-vertical wall above the left-hand side of the Lower Slabs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Three Sheep Twice a Day
  1. 35m 18 5 bolts to DBB.

  2. 30m 15 3 bolts and large cams to belay on small ledge.

  3. 30m 9 Unprotected scramble to top.

18Mixed 95m 3, 5
2 * Prescription Pills

As for 'Three Sheep Twice a Day' to its second bolt, then trend right up a poorly-protected seam.

21Mixed 35m, 2
3 *** Butter Fingers 20Mixed 35m, 2
4 *** Silence of The Cams

Left-leaning crack.

19Trad 35m
5 Inshallah

Start 10m right of 'Silence of the Cams'.

25Mixed 22m, 2
6 * Circle of Trust 27Sport 22m
7 * What Would You Rather

A good approach pitch to Frankenstein and Dead Head. #3 cam supplements the bolts.

19Mixed 15m, 5
8 Open project

5m left of "Dickheads and Dynosaurs".

Sport Project

1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788080, -34.826360

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fuzzy Bear 16Trad 50m
2 ** Crawling From The Wreckage
  1. 25m 21

  2. 30m 12

21Mixed 55m, 3

1.1.6. The Head Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788195, -34.826491

Description:

Vertical wall above the middle section of the Lower Slabs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Quite Frankly

The roof and face above.

20Mixed 30m, 3
2 *** Skippy Goes Splat 19Trad 35m 2
3 ** Dread Head 24Mixed 25m, 3
4 *** Frankenstein 25Mixed 25m, 5
5 Drop Bears Garden 16Trad 50m 2

1.1.7. Main Face 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788511, -34.827120

Description:

Vertical wall above the right-hand section of the Lower Slabs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dickheads and Dynosaurs

10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams.

21Mixed 45m, 10
2 *** At the Corner 22Mixed 45m, 8
3 ** Uncle Gobby 20Mixed 45m, 3
4 ** Three Card Trick 18Mixed 45m, 5
5 * Dreadless 23Mixed 45m, 4
6 *** Cowlick 21Mixed 45m, 6
7 ** Jugular 19Mixed 45m, 5
8 ** Thieves Like The Sun 18Mixed 45m, 8
9 ** Three is the Key 18Mixed 35m, 6
10 Stolen Generation
  1. 22m 19

  2. 22m 19

19Mixed 44m 2, 4
11 * Old Gnarly

Start on the ledge above Jugular.

15Trad 10m

1.2. Thompson's Cove 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 116.657094, -35.050173

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the most secluded and beautiful climbing areas in WA.

Description:

The climbing is quite short, however, there are some amazing crack climbs, as well as face and slab climbing. A 25 m rope, quickdraws and a set of nuts and cams are required.

Access Issues:

Climbing and camping is located in a wilderness area. National Park rangers request you notify them prior and at completion of trip

Approach:

Follow the Western Highway west from Walpole for 7 km before turning left onto Tinglewood Road. Park at trail head. Follow popular tourist track for 7.5 km (2 hours) before reaching the crag.

Where To Stay:

Campsites can be found at Thompson's Cove.

1.2.1. The Terrace 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.657468, -35.051126

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Laid Back 5Trad 5m
2 Top Rope Slab 23Top rope 7m
3 Private Eye 14Trad 7m
4 Where is the Playgound Susie? 17Trad 7m
5 * Swinging Detectives 17Trad 10m
6 Lost and Found 12Trad 12m
7 ** Under Cover 22Sport 14m

1.2.2. Cinema Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.656571, -35.051106

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Picture Show

Climb up rightward leaning crack on right side of Cinema Wall. Start left of small roof and up to horizontal break. Climb seam past 2 bolts and then arete to finish.

FFA: S. Richardson, 1996

24Mixed 20m, 2
2 ** Hi-Wire

The thin line running right midway from Hey Joe crack.

FFA: G. Brysland, 1990

22Trad 20m
3 *** Hey Joe

The crag classic! Climb corner crack to sustained laybacking and jamming. Well protected

FFA: S. Rewell, R. Campbell, 1990

18Trad 20m
4 *** Golden Vein

Another classic route following a technical golden vein of bolts. Beware, bolts may be rusted.

FFA: S. Richardson, 1990

26Sport 25m
5 ** Totally Total

The crack/flake line at left edge of Cinema Wall.

FFA: G. Brysland, A. Rokich, 1990

18Trad 20m

1.2.3. Phoenix Walls 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.656298, -35.050528

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheezgrater 20Trad 20m
2 By the Time We Get to Phoenix 15Trad 15m
3 * Zeepaard

Start 2m left of chimney and climb face, past four bolts to roof and go right to top out.

FFA: S. Aegerter, 1996

23Mixed 15m, 4
4 ** Zeepaard Direct

Start as for Zeepaard, but go straight over the roof directly.

FFA: S. Aegerter, 1996

24Mixed 15m, 4

1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.656010, -35.050618

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheap Trick 17Trad 7m
2 Tweeky 14Trad 5m
3 * Squeaky 19Trad 6m
4 Squiggle 17Trad 6m
5 Wiggley 14Trad 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Laid Back Trad 5m 1.2.1. The Terrace
8 * Burning Desires Trad 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
9 * Big Head Trad 30m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
11 * Leaves in the Gutter Trad 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
This Bites Trad 30m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
Walking The Plank Trad 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
12 Lost and Found Trad 12m 1.2.1. The Terrace
14 * Lambs To The Slaughter Sport 50m, 3 1.1.3. Lower Slab
Private Eye Trad 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Tweeky Trad 5m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
Wiggley Trad 6m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
15 Flash Trad 20m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
Ian's Lost Chance Trad 90m 2 1.1.3. Lower Slab
** Purring Pussies Sport 36m, 9 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Old Gnarly Trad 10m 1.1.7. Main Face
By the Time We Get to Phoenix Trad 15m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
16 *** Dream Weaver Sport 95m 3, 8 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Free Burma Mixed 160m 4, 8 1.1.3. Lower Slab
Fuzzy Bear Trad 50m 1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge
Drop Bears Garden Trad 50m 2 1.1.6. The Head Wall
17 * Granitarium Sport 85m 3, 6 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Burmese Tiger Sport 38m, 10 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Swinging Detectives Trad 10m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Where is the Playgound Susie? Trad 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Cheap Trick Trad 7m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
Squiggle Trad 6m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
18 * Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses Mixed 77m 2, 11 1.1.2. The Elephant
Trick or Treat Trad 90m 2 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Where Eagles Dare Sport 90m 3, 8 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Free Willy Sport 40m, 11 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Stoned Alone Sport 80m 2, 10 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Three Sheep Twice a Day Mixed 95m 3, 5 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Thieves Like The Sun Mixed 45m, 8 1.1.7. Main Face
** Three Card Trick Mixed 45m, 5 1.1.7. Main Face
** Three is the Key Mixed 35m, 6 1.1.7. Main Face
*** Hey Joe Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
** Totally Total Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
19 Saracen Mixed 82m 3, 3 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Well Stoned Sport 30m, 9 1.1.3. Lower Slab
*** Silence of The Cams Trad 35m 1.1.4. The Terrace
* What Would You Rather Mixed 15m, 5 1.1.4. The Terrace
*** Skippy Goes Splat Trad 35m 2 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Jugular Mixed 45m, 5 1.1.7. Main Face
Stolen Generation Mixed 44m 2, 4 1.1.7. Main Face
* Squeaky Trad 6m 1.2.4. Lower Phoenix Level
20 *** Hannibal Mixed 70m 2, 6 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Lector Connector Mixed 80m 2, 9 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Butter Fingers Mixed 35m, 2 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Quite Frankly Mixed 30m, 3 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Uncle Gobby Mixed 45m, 3 1.1.7. Main Face
Cheezgrater Trad 20m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
21 * Prescription Pills Mixed 35m, 2 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Crawling From The Wreckage Mixed 55m, 3 1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge
*** Cowlick Mixed 45m, 6 1.1.7. Main Face
*** Dickheads and Dynosaurs Mixed 45m, 10 1.1.7. Main Face
22 *** At the Corner Mixed 45m, 8 1.1.7. Main Face
** Under Cover Sport 14m 1.2.1. The Terrace
** Hi-Wire Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
23 * Ashes to Ashes Trad 15m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
* Dreadless Mixed 45m, 4 1.1.7. Main Face
Top Rope Slab Top rope 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
* Zeepaard Mixed 15m, 4 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
24 ** Dread Head Mixed 25m, 3 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Picture Show Mixed 20m, 2 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
** Zeepaard Direct Mixed 15m, 4 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
25 Inshallah Mixed 22m, 2 1.1.4. The Terrace
*** Frankenstein Mixed 25m, 5 1.1.6. The Head Wall
26 *** Golden Vein Sport 25m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
27 * Circle of Trust Sport 22m 1.1.4. The Terrace
? Open project Sport Project 1.1.4. The Terrace