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Table of contents

1. Walpole 73 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 116.767232, -34.902333

Unique Features And Strengths:

Awesome climbing in beautiful locations


There are two climbing areas around Walpole. Mt Franklin, the larger of the two is very easy to access and sports some of the best slab climbing in WA. Thompsons Cove is a 2 hour walk in to some of the most beautiful sea cliffs in WA.

Access Issues:

All climbing is located within National Parks


Walpole is 385 km south of Perth or 115 km west of Albany.

Where To Stay:

There are camp sites near both climbing locations

1.1. Mount Frankland 52 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788695, -34.824487

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mt Frankland is a massive granite dome that rises to 433m above sea level, sticking up above the surrounding Karri Forest.


Most climbing is slab where you rely on daft footwork, friction and small edges to get you up most routes. However, there is some great face climbing and even a few cracks. The area also boasts some great multi-pitch climbing. Most routes dry quick although those beneath the roof may remain wet for longer. One 70m or two 50m ropes are required to abseil off routes if you are not topping out. Most bolts are glue-in carrot bolts (take your own hangers), although bolted belays generally have rings for rapping off.

See 'South Coast Rock' for early climbs, and 'New Routes at Mount Frankland 2nd edition' (http://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/new-routes-at-mount-frankland-rev2.pdf) for more recent climbs.

Access Issues:

The area boasts some endangered fauna and flora and care must be taken to not damage any of the flora that inhabit Mt Frankland. Removal of plants could result in climbing restrictions.


10 minutes from car park.

Where To Stay:

Camping is allowed only at Fernhook Falls, some 20 minute drive away. Some cottage style accommodation now exists to the south to the crag, use google maps to find.

1.1.1. Northern Slabs 9 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.789104, -34.821396


Easy to moderate, barely protected slab climbing. No bolts should be placed on this cliff. All climbs are either trad, top-ropable or solos.


Visible through the trees just north of the carpark.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flash 15 Trad 20m
2 Rough Justice

FA was a solo. Go up obvious line of weakness at the left end of slab and right of Flash. Crux is at half height where weakness blanks out and delicate climbing on crystals is required.

FA: B. Aikman, 1998

18 Trad 25m
3 Big Boys Rule

FA was a solo. Start at small cairn 10m left of drainage line between Rough Justice and Leaves in the Gutter. Climb steepening wall up pockets to gain left trending pocketed seam. Crux is steep section at 10m.

FA: B. Aikman, 1998

20 Trad 27m
4 * Leaves in the Gutter 11 Trad 50m
5 * Burning Desires 8 Trad 50m
6 Walking The Plank 11 Trad 50m
7 * Big Head 9 Trad 30m
8 This Bites 11 Trad 30m
9 * Ashes to Ashes

The obvious and quite desperate finger to fist jamming crack on the small wall up right of the moss-streaked slab.

FA: D. Wagland, 1991

23 Trad 15m

1.1.2. The Elephant 7 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.787568, -34.825663


Includes the elephant's trunk & head, as well as the full-height slab immediately to its right.


It is located on the left side of the west face and is reached by following the tourist trail around the base of the dome. When the trail turns left, you will see the blank slabby feature resembling an elephant.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses

Start 15m left of Hannibal.

  1. 47m (18): Up past 11 bolts then gear (0.5 cam) in the corner L of Hannibal. DBB.

  2. 30m (10): Continue up blocks to top.

FA: Matt Rosser, Jim Truscott, 2004

18 Mixed 77m 2, 11
2 Saracen

As for Hannibal to the third bolt, then left and up the crack on the side of the elephant's trunk and head.

19 Mixed 82m 3, 3
3 *** Hannibal

An excellent and sustained climb straight up the middle of the trunk. Protected with six bolts (hangers needed), wired and cams.

  1. 40m (20): Straight up the slab of the elephant's trunk, with carrot bolts and natural gear. From second bolt, continue past three more bolts to reach overlap. DBB on ledge above the overlap.

  2. 30m (17): Continue straight up. No pro for the first 8m. Finish up water runnel at rear of sloping ledge and belay near the bushes. Scramble to top.

FA: G. Philips,S. Digwood, 1991

20 Mixed 70m 2, 6
4 * Lector Connector

This is a variation to the finish of Hannibal. It has a longer first pitch and a great position up the side of the 'trunk'.

  1. 50m (20): As for Hannibal to the 5th bolt, then diagonally right past 4 FHs to rap anchor.

  2. 30m (18): Up steep slab trending right past 2 FHs then scramble to the top.

FA: Mark Thake, Jeremy Scott, 2007

20 Mixed 80m 2, 9
5 Trick or Treat

Better than it looks! Starts about 15m right of Hannibal below a series of water pockets.

  1. 42m (14): Follow pockets up the base of the wall forming the right side of the trunk. Move tight around the corner and continue for 8m and build belay in vegetated crack at the base of the wall on the left.

  2. 20m (16): Continue up slab just left of wall until the angle steepens the move right up slab to reach right trending crack. Follow crack to overlap and straight up sloping ramp and belay. Scramble to top.

FA: G. Phillips,S. Digwood, 1991

16 Trad 90m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Where Eagles Dare

Water streak 10m right of Trick or Treat. Need plates for 8 bolts, belays are U-bolts. Clips can be exciting

  1. 30m (18): Slab past 7 carrot bolts to DBB.

  2. 30m (18): Slab past 8 carrot bolts to DBB.

  3. 25m (14): Up past 5 bolts to DBB.

FA: M. Tiller,J. Siamos, 1997

18 Sport 90m 3, 8
7 * Granitarium

Nice slab climbing with carrot bolts and a few medium cams. Starts 20m right of Where Eagles Dare and 30m left of Dream Weaver. First pitch is the only good one. Hangers required.

  1. 30m (17): Up slab past 5 bolts to short L-trending cracks (medium cams), then to DBB.

  2. 30m (13): Up mossy slap past 4 more bolts to left facing corner. Continue up corner to more bolts and natural pro to DBB.

  3. 27m (11): Mostly trad with a trad belay.

FA: R. Weiter, D. Rao, 2010

17 Sport 85m 3, 6

1.1.3. Lower Slab 10 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 116.787901, -34.826524


The slab leading to a long ledge at half height, below The Terrace, Head Wall and Main Face.


From the Elephant, contiune along tourist trail for about 100m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dream Weaver

A well protected, sustained and enjoyable face. Start up black slab 10m L of Ian's Lost Chance. Bolts (hangers required) plus medium nuts and cams.

  1. 35m (16): Up right trending cracks (nut placements) and up slab past 7 bolts to sloping ledge and DBB.

  2. 35m (16): Up left to overlap to bulge then continue right following bolts. Up dinner plate holds to ledge and DBB.

  3. 25m (12): Trend left past natural pro to short headwall and up slab. 4 bolts to DBB.

Need 8 bolt plates and 9 draws plus nuts.

Descent note: Can be done with a 60m rope, although last rap is 31m . Otherwise walk to top of mountain.

FA: R. Weiter,D. Pantic, 2003

16 Mixed 95m 3, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Ian's Lost Chance
  1. 40m (14): The vegetated right-trending gully and crack.

  2. 50m (15): Traverse left then up the flaring crack.

FA: K. Vos,J. Hurn, 1992

15 Trad 90m 2
3 ** Stoned Alone

Start on low-angled slab below the gully of Ian's Lost Chance. Need 9 bolt plates and 10 draws.

  1. 40m (15): Start 10m left of Free Burma and same as start for Lambs to the Slaughter. Up easy slab and cross Ian's Lost Chance on a slabby bridge. Continue up slab, trending left to DBB at rings below a steeper wall. 7 bolts

  2. 40m (18): L and up the vertical wall. Continue up easy ground to DBB at rings.

Descend as Dream Weaver.

FA: R. Weiter,N. Gledhill, 2010

18 Sport 80m 2, 10
4 *** Well Stoned
  1. 35m (15): Start as for Stoned Alone to last bolt, then trend right to belay at rings.

  2. 40m (19): Straight up steep face then easier ground to belay at rings.

FA: R. Weiter,H. Carrad,J. Iles, 2012

19 Sport 75m 2, 9
5 * Lambs To The Slaughter

Start below the gully of 'Ian's Lost Chance' as for Stoned Alone. R-trending diagonal slab climbing formed by a dyke crossing the lower slab up to The Terrace.

FA: M. Gidding,D. Moyses, 1991

14 Sport 50m, 3
6 * Free Burma

Probably the longest route possible at Mount Frankland. Useful to reach The TerraceThe first pitch is a good access route to The Terrace.

  1. 48m (16): Straight up past 5 bolts and natural gear to DBB and rap anchor on The Terrace.

  2. 27m (14): From left side of The Terrace, climb straight up for 3m to a bolt then traverse left along weakness towards and obvious indentation. Move up to another bolt, and continue up slightly leftward to belay on left side of Wreckage Ledge (using single bolt + natural gear).

  3. 50m (10): Straight up, trending slightly left for 50m. Belay in a convenient crack. All natural gear.

  4. 35m (4): Solo to top

FA: D. Moyses,M. Gidding,D. Wagland,G. Phillips,K. Langley, 1991

16 Mixed 160m 4, 8
7 * Free Willy

Start 5m right of Free Burma. Very well protected. 11 bolts (hangers needed). Lower off 2m right of Free Burma lower-offs.

FA: R. Weiter,H. Carrad,J. Iles, 2012

18 Sport 38m, 11
8 * Burmese Tiger

Start 15m R of Free Burma. 10 bolts (hangers required).

FA: R. Weiter,D. Rao, 2009

17 Sport 38m, 10
9 * Purring Pussies

he white water streak 10m R of Burmese Tiger. 9 bolts (hangers required. Can be mossy and wet.

FA: R. Weiter,D. Rao, 2009

16 Sport 36m, 9
10 Je suis un gros lard

Walk past main wall for a further 2 mins till you are bellow an obvious roof flake 20m above path. Gear through roof, then 3 bolts.

FA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999

26 Mixed 3

1.1.4. The Terrace 8 routes in Sector

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.788000, -34.826394


Almost-vertical wall above the left-hand side of the Lower Slabs characterised by a large grassy ledge.


The Terrace can be reached by climbing any of the routes on the Lower Slab. Alternatively, you can scramble up the right hand side of the west face and walk along the base of the Main Wall to the grassy terrace.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Three Sheep Twice a Day

A great way to reach the summit from The Terrace.

  1. 35m (18): 5 bolts to DBB on wreckage ledge.

  2. 30m (15): 3 bolts and large cams to belay on small ledge.

  3. 30m (9): Unprotected scramble to top.

FA: A. Rokich,R. Tyson, 1991

18 Mixed 95m 3, 5
2 * Prescription Pills

As for 'Three Sheep Twice a Day' to its second bolt, then trend right up a poorly-protected seam. Finish as for Butter Fingers.

FA: S. Richardson,T. Massiah, 1992

21 Mixed 35m, 2
3 *** Butter Fingers

Fine face climbing up past 2 bolts to small cam placements in a hidden pocket. Clim groove and belay on Wreckage Ledge.

FA: A. Rokich,A. Miller, 1991

20 Mixed 35m, 3
4 *** Silence of the Cams

If you are getting bored of slab climbing. Left-leaning crack finishing on the Wreckage Ledge.

FA: A. Rokich,S. Rewell, 1991

19 Trad 35m
5 Inshallah

Start 10m right of 'Silence of the Cams' below right hand end of horizontal crack. Up to carrot and follow crack with gear. Up runnel to rap anchors.

FA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999

25 Mixed 22m, 5
6 * Circle of Trust

On the section of blank wall between Silence of the Cams and Dickheads and Dynosaurs (directly below Skippy Goes Splat). Start up Inshallah to second bolt and head straight up wall on Fixe bolts. Technical, thin and awesome rock. Lower of leaver biner or continue to anchor above Inshallah.

FA: E. Mandyczewsky, 1999

27 Sport 22m
7 * What Would You Rather...?

Starts 7m right of Drop Bears Garden. Climb the face and water runnel with 5 P-bolts. Can use a #3 cam. Finish on lower-offs for start of Frankenstein and Dreaded Head. A good approach pitch to Frankenstein and Dead Head.

FA: M. Willson,E. Mandyczewsky, 2006

19 Mixed 15m, 5
8 Open project

5m left of Dickheads and Dynosaurs and could go at grade 29 or 30. Up Fixe bolts and finish on rap chains on ledge.

Set by E. Mandyczewsky, 2010

Sport Project

1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge 2 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788080, -34.826360


Wreckage Ledge is a small platform found above The Terrace.


Reached by climbing one pitch above The Terrace.

Descent Notes:

A double bolt abseil chain has been installed to allow easy access to The Terrace (35m). Otherwise, continue to summit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fuzzy Bear

The obvious corner on the right side of Wreckage Ledge. Finish on upper slab.

16 Trad 50m
2 ** Crawling From The Wreckage

A bit different to the other Mount Frankland climbing!

  1. 25m (21): Ape out roof on natural pro to difficult moves on around lip and onto wall using 3 bolts. Belay below upper slab using a thread and crack. Can be easier to rap to bolts and belay from there.

  2. 30m (12): Either climb slab to obvious flake (1 bolt), or solo just left of flake to top.

FA: D. Wagland,B. Fuster, 1991

21 Mixed 55m 2, 3

1.1.6. The Head Wall 5 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788195, -34.826491


Vertical wall above the middle section of the Lower Slabs.


Can be reached via Wreckage Ledge, by traversing further left around the base of the head wall (grade 12 and protectable). Move right and slightly downward to follow a smaller ledge for about 10m until you are bellow a large roof and the start of the climbs.

Alternatively, climb What Would You Rather...? or Drop Bears Garden to reach the start of Frankenstein and Dread Head.

Descent Notes:

New rap anchors have been added to the top of the Head Wall due to suspect bolt condition.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Quite Frankly

Start from a semi-hanging belay beneath large roof. Up through the roof on big holds and climb face above.

FA: S. Richardson,A. Rokich, 1992

20 Mixed 30m, 3
2 *** Skippy Goes Splat

A crag classic. Exposed and juggy up the obvious crack system 3m right of Quite Frankly. Set up hanging belay under overhanging blocks below crack.

  1. 20m (19): Climb overhanging blocky knobs and crack with increasing exposure. A hard move to exit crack, then go straight up to belay on ledge. #4 friend useful for pro.

  2. 30m (14): Climb up the blocks on left edge of ledge to finish on summit.

FA: A. Rokich,D. Moyses, 1991

19 Trad 35m 2

The next two climbs are found on the right side of The Head Wall. They are either accessed by a long traverse from the left along Wreckage Ledge, or by climbing the first pitch of Drop Bears Garden or What Would You Rather...?

3 ** Dread Head

Great climb! From belay, move up and left 3m and blast up wall past 3 bolts (last bolt needs a hanger) and natural gear. Finish on large flake and move right to belay chain and lower off.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

24 Mixed 25m, 3
4 *** Frankenstein

Absolutely brilliant! Climb the slightly overhanging headwall up cracks, through scoops and over the roof to finish at lower-off chains. Well protected with 5 bolts and natural gear.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

25 Mixed 25m, 5
5 Drop Bears Garden

The obvious mossy corner on the right side of The Terrace.

  1. 20m (16): Climb the mossy corner to belay on good rock below vertical crack.

  2. 30m (16): Climb vertical crack and watch it deteriorate into a mossy and wet grovel. Move slightly right to finish

FA: A. Rokich,D. Moyses, 1991

16 Trad 50m 2

1.1.7. Main Face 11 routes in Sector

All Trad

Long/Lat: 116.788511, -34.827120


Vertical wall above the right-hand section of the Lower Slabs.


Either traverse left along The Terrace or scramble up the right hand side of the West Face.

Descent Notes:

Will need two 50m ropes to rap down from anchors or climb Old Gnarly to reach summit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Dickheads and Dynosaurs

Enjoyable and sustained slab climbing. 10 ring bolts and a couple of large cams for the overlaps.

FA: S. Richardson,A. Rokich, 1992

21 Mixed 45m, 10
2 *** At the Corner

A sustained and superb climb starting at small left facing corner. Climb past 8 bolts and various natural gear. #4 friend after second bolt is useful.

FA: G. Brysland,I. Wareing, 1992

22 Mixed 45m, 8
3 ** Uncle Gobby

Fine moves up wall. Start 5m right of At the Corner. Natural gear + 3 bolts. #4 friend useful in overlap protecting final moves.

FA: K. Fleming,G. Brysland, 1992

20 Mixed 45m, 3
4 ** Three Card Trick

Start on left side of dark streak, 6m right of Uncle Goby and climb the right-facing corner, moving left then back right to vague, vertical dyke.

FA: G. Brysland,I. Arnaud,M. Adams, 1991

18 Mixed 45m, 5
5 * Dreadless

Hard start, and easy finish. Small wires + 4 bolts.

FA: S. Richardson,M. Gidding,A. Rokich, 1992

23 Mixed 45m, 4
6 *** Cowlick

Superb face climbing. Small edges and long moves past the first 2 bolts make this climb excellent. The crux is pulling through the final overlap.

FA: A. Rokich,S. Enne, 1991

21 Mixed 45m, 6
7 ** Jugular

Similar, but slightly easier than Cowlick. A flake has gone missing near second bolt, making climb considerably more difficult.

FA: A. Rokich,S. Enne, 1991

20 Mixed 45m, 5
8 ** Thieves Like The Sun

Well protected and good fun. Starts 10m right of Jugular where it is easy to step on the wall. The climb trends left past 7 FHs and some natural gear. Same finish as Jugular once overlap is reached. Traverse 15m right to lower-offs.

FA: R. Wall,G. Brysland, 1992

18 Mixed 45m, 8
9 ** Three is the Key

A popular route as it is relatively sustained and a little run out. A steep bouldery start about 3m right of Thieves Like The Sun.

FA: S. Enne,A. Rokich, 1991

18 Mixed 35m, 6
10 ** Stolen Generation

This route is the rightmost route on the Main Face.

  1. 22m (19): Start at obvious right facing corner 20m up The Terrace. Up crack then ape left across roof on good cams. Continue past various natural pro and a bolt to DBB.

  2. 22m (19): Directly up slab past 4 bolts to slots which take cams. Exit left to DBB.

FA: C. Jones,R. Wall, 2003

19 Mixed 44m 2, 4
11 * Old Gnarly

The rightward diagonal crack on the boulder on the ledge above Jugular. A nice finishing pitch for the Main Face climbs..

FA: D. Wagland,D. Moyses,S. Enne,M. Gidding,A. Rokich, 1991

15 Trad 10m

1.2. Thompson's Cove 21 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 116.657094, -35.050173

Unique Features And Strengths:

One of the most secluded and beautiful climbing areas in WA.


The climbing is quite short, however, there are some amazing crack climbs, as well as face and slab climbing. A 25 m rope, quickdraws and a set of nuts and cams are required.

Access Issues:

Climbing and camping is located in a wilderness area. National Park rangers request you notify them prior and at completion of trip


Follow the Western Highway west from Walpole for 7 km before turning left onto Tinglewood Road. Park at trail head for the Bibbulum Trail. Take any of the trails that lead to the suspension bridge across the Deep River. Cross river and continue along trail for 1.5 to 2 hours, until a dieback shoe cleaning station is reached. DO NOT follow Bibbulum signs to the right, but instead continue along 4WD track for another 30 - 40 minutes until you reach a turn off with a 'Thompon's Cove' sign pointing left. Walk down the trail, past the Peppermints Camp, and down to the beach. Trail isn't obvious.

The climbing area is reached from the beach by walking along the western rocky shoreline to a set of large 5 m high boulders, with a distinct rocky path between them. Climb this slope, and find the cairn off to the right marking an indistinct trail. Follow this for 80-100 m until you reach a large boulder with a smaller boulder on top. Climb down here to the rock platform, and continue west to find the climbs.

Where To Stay:

Camp-sites can be found at Thompson's Cove. There is a freshwater stream and plenty of whiting swimming in the water.


Please adhere to minimal impact camping practices, do not go to the toilet near the stream, and carry all rubbish away with you.

1.2.1. The Terrace 7 routes in Cliff

Trad, Top Rope and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.657468, -35.051126


The first section of the cliff. Routes are described from east to west.

Descent Notes:

Laid Back provides a convenient descent option. All anchors require trad gear. THERE ARE NO BOLTED ANCHORS

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Laid Back

The easy way to the top.... and bottom

5 Trad 5m
2 Top Rope Slab

The blank face requiring pure friction.

23 Top rope 7m
3 Private Eye

Short but pleasant line up the obvious clean crack in the low angled corner.

FA: A. Rokich,R. Campbell, 1990

14 Trad 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Where is the Playgound Susie?

The left trending, shallow groove line 10 m left of Private Eye. Minimum pro, serious lead.

FA: G. Brysland,R. Campbell, 1990

17 Trad 7m
5 * Swinging Detectives

The thin, left trending crack line. Follow crack left and finish up vertical crack. Well protected.

FA: R. Campbell,I. Arnaud, 1990

17 Trad 10m
6 Lost and Found

The corner/crack. Sometimes wet.

FA: C. Taylor,R. Campbell, 1990

12 Trad 12m
7 ** Under Cover

Excellent face climbing on delicate holds following line of FH.

FA: S. Aegerter, 1996

22 Sport 14m, 5

1.2.2. Cinema Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.656571, -35.051106


Cinema Wall is the obvious open book corner wall with a very large (unclimbed) boulder to its left side. It is the most impressive part of the wall, and the main attraction of the area. The rock is of high quality.


Continue along rock platform west from The Terrace

Descent Notes:

All anchors require trad gear. THERE ARE NO BOLTED ANCHORS

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Picture Show

Climb up rightward leaning crack on right side of Cinema Wall. Start left of small roof and up to horizontal break. Climb seam past 2 bolts and then arete to finish.

FFA: S. Richardson, 1996

24 Mixed 20m, 2
2 ** Hi-Wire

The thin line running right midway from Hey Joe crack.

FFA: G. Brysland, 1990

22 Trad 20m
3 *** Hey Joe

The crag classic! Climb corner crack to sustained laybacking and jamming. Well protected

FFA: S. Rewell, R. Campbell, 1990

18 Trad 20m
4 *** Golden Vein

Another classic route following a technical golden vein of fixed hangers. Beware, bolts may be rusted. There are visible rust stains coming out of bolts down rock. May need to be re-bolted,

FFA: S. Richardson, 1996

26 Sport 25m, 6
5 ** Totally Total

The crack/flake line at left edge of Cinema Wall.

FFA: G. Brysland, A. Rokich, 1990

18 Trad 20m

1.2.3. Phoenix Walls 9 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.656117, -35.050588


Located further left of The Cinema Wall there is more climbing, and probably even more first ascents to be had!


Continue past the large boulder on the left side of The Cinema Wall, along a narrow (and slippery) sloping ledge.

Descent Notes:

All anchors require trad gear. THERE ARE NO BOLTED ANCHORS

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cheezgrater

Find the big obvious crack next to a very pointy boulder on the west facing cliff. It doesn't look overhung, but it is. It looks smooth, but it isn't. Just follow crack until you start to bleed, Continue to loose blood, and when you can't possibly loose any more blood, continue until you reach the top. Tape recommended.

FA: A. Pitchford, 1991

20 Trad 20m
2 By the Time We Get to Phoenix

Starts about 15 m left of Cheezgrater. Climb short chimney, 3 m right of obvious corner crack. Move right and follow the vanishing crack line to slabby finish.

FA: G. Brysland,I. Arnaud, 1990

15 Trad 15m
3 * Zeepaard

Start 2m left of chimney and climb face, past four bolts to roof and go right to top out.

FA: S. Aegerter, 1996

23 Sport 15m, 4
4 ** Zeepaard Direct

Start as for Zeepaard, but go straight over the roof directly.

FFA: S. Aegerter, 1996

24 Sport 15m, 4

Lower Phoenix Level

Scramble down the easy (?) low angled slab to reach the level below Phoenix Wall

5 Cheap Trick

The lay back corner crack on the left of the low angled descent slab.

FA: M. Sales, 1991

17 Trad 7m
6 Tweeky

The short lay back corner crack in the back left hand side of the mini amphitheatre

FA: R. Campbell,A. Rokich, 1990

14 Trad 5m
7 * Squeaky

The face and thin crack cline

FA: A. Rokich,R. Campbell, 1990

19 Trad 6m
8 Squiggle

The left hand corner crack

FA: A. Rokich,R. Campbell, 1990

17 Trad 6m
9 Wiggley

The short crack 6 m left of Squiggle.

FA: R. Campbell,A. Rokich, 1990

14 Trad 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Laid Back Trad 5m 1.2.1. The Terrace
8 * Burning Desires Trad 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
9 * Big Head Trad 30m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
11 * Leaves in the Gutter Trad 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
This Bites Trad 30m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
Walking The Plank Trad 50m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
12 Lost and Found Trad 12m 1.2.1. The Terrace
14 * Lambs To The Slaughter Sport 50m, 3 1.1.3. Lower Slab
Private Eye Trad 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Tweeky Trad 5m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
Wiggley Trad 6m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
15 Flash Trad 20m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
Ian's Lost Chance Trad 90m 2 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Old Gnarly Trad 10m 1.1.7. Main Face
By the Time We Get to Phoenix Trad 15m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
16 Trick or Treat Trad 90m 2 1.1.2. The Elephant
** Dream Weaver Mixed 95m 3, 8 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Free Burma Mixed 160m 4, 8 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Purring Pussies Sport 36m, 9 1.1.3. Lower Slab
Fuzzy Bear Trad 50m 1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge
Drop Bears Garden Trad 50m 2 1.1.6. The Head Wall
17 * Granitarium Sport 85m 3, 6 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Burmese Tiger Sport 38m, 10 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Swinging Detectives Trad 10m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Where is the Playgound Susie? Trad 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
Cheap Trick Trad 7m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
Squiggle Trad 6m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
18 Rough Justice Trad 25m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
* Purveyors of Matters Large and Small for the Masses Mixed 77m 2, 11 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Where Eagles Dare Sport 90m 3, 8 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Free Willy Sport 38m, 11 1.1.3. Lower Slab
** Stoned Alone Sport 80m 2, 10 1.1.3. Lower Slab
* Three Sheep Twice a Day Mixed 95m 3, 5 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Thieves Like The Sun Mixed 45m, 8 1.1.7. Main Face
** Three Card Trick Mixed 45m, 5 1.1.7. Main Face
** Three is the Key Mixed 35m, 6 1.1.7. Main Face
*** Hey Joe Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
** Totally Total Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
19 Saracen Mixed 82m 3, 3 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Well Stoned Sport 75m 2, 9 1.1.3. Lower Slab
*** Silence of the Cams Trad 35m 1.1.4. The Terrace
* What Would You Rather...? Mixed 15m, 5 1.1.4. The Terrace
*** Skippy Goes Splat Trad 35m 2 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Stolen Generation Mixed 44m 2, 4 1.1.7. Main Face
* Squeaky Trad 6m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
20 Big Boys Rule Trad 27m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
*** Hannibal Mixed 70m 2, 6 1.1.2. The Elephant
* Lector Connector Mixed 80m 2, 9 1.1.2. The Elephant
*** Butter Fingers Mixed 35m, 3 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Quite Frankly Mixed 30m, 3 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Jugular Mixed 45m, 5 1.1.7. Main Face
** Uncle Gobby Mixed 45m, 3 1.1.7. Main Face
Cheezgrater Trad 20m 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
21 * Prescription Pills Mixed 35m, 2 1.1.4. The Terrace
** Crawling From The Wreckage Mixed 55m 2, 3 1.1.5. Wreckage Ledge
*** Cowlick Mixed 45m, 6 1.1.7. Main Face
*** Dickheads and Dynosaurs Mixed 45m, 10 1.1.7. Main Face
22 *** At the Corner Mixed 45m, 8 1.1.7. Main Face
** Under Cover Sport 14m, 5 1.2.1. The Terrace
** Hi-Wire Trad 20m 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
23 * Ashes to Ashes Trad 15m 1.1.1. Northern Slabs
* Dreadless Mixed 45m, 4 1.1.7. Main Face
Top Rope Slab Top rope 7m 1.2.1. The Terrace
* Zeepaard Sport 15m, 4 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
24 ** Dread Head Mixed 25m, 3 1.1.6. The Head Wall
** Picture Show Mixed 20m, 2 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
** Zeepaard Direct Sport 15m, 4 1.2.3. Phoenix Walls
25 Inshallah Mixed 22m, 5 1.1.4. The Terrace
*** Frankenstein Mixed 25m, 5 1.1.6. The Head Wall
26 Je suis un gros lard Mixed 3 1.1.3. Lower Slab
*** Golden Vein Sport 25m, 6 1.2.2. Cinema Wall
27 * Circle of Trust Sport 22m 1.1.4. The Terrace
? Open project Sport Project 1.1.4. The Terrace