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Good rock, child-friendly, no walk-in.


As you head through the gorge east-to-west, the climbing is on the large buttress to the right of the road and the narrow breadknife outcrop to the left of the road. Lucky Charm to Free Feed are on the front of the buttress facing the road. Emu Arse Lip Balm is on the west wall of the buttress. Succession is the steep corner between the front of the buttress and its east wall. Lepus Offus DS to Introduced Vermin are on the neat east wall (aka Lepus Wall). Noah's Ark to Lateral Thinking are on the west wall of the breadknife and Manhattan is on its east wall.

The climbs on Lepus wall are mostly bolt protected but require a couple of trad pieces each. There are two bolts on top above Pestilence which you could belay from, or build your own anchor.

Access issues

This is a very popular tourist destination with campers, 4wders and walkers. It is important that we minimise our impact on the area. Bolt hangers are painted to reduce visibility.


Step out of the car and look up - you're there!

Where to stay

Camp onsite for $10/night.


View historical timeline

As well as the described routes in the Gorge itself, Ed Higginson, Frazer Baker and Michael Henningson have climbed at least 8 lines (grades 10-16) further north along the Warren Gorge Walking Trail. These are probably on the west-facing walls not far south of South Gorge (Argadells). The rock in the area is pretty ordinary.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)


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Grade Route

The large flake on the W-facing wall of the main buttress to a small roof, then directly up to a small tree.

FA: Pat Ford & B. Cain, 1995

On the north side of the gorge. To descend, scramble up to the top and then walk down by lepus wall (east side.)

At the front of the buttress facing the road is a double overhang with a prominent crack through the lower roof. Up the crack then straight through the second overhang to finish. 3 bolts.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

3m R of Lucky Charm. Follow a crack that finishes in a chimney.

FA: Pat Ford & David Trehearne, 1993

Locate two cracks at a small overhang 1.5m R of Rabbit Killpatrick. Up these (beware loose blocks at 2m) for 7m to a stance. Finish up the arete.

FA: David Trehearne & Russell Partridge, 1993

Up the juggy crack 2.5m R of Cute Buns to a ledge at 7m. Step L and continue up the crack.

FA: David Trehearne (solo), 1993

Find vertical cracks 2m L of the arete at the R end of the wall. Climb these to a ledge. Continue up into a chimney gully and on to the top.

FA: David Trehearne (solo), 1993

The overhanging corner at the L end of the east-facing wall (Lepus Wall). A bit run out at the top.

FA: Peter Beavis & Alan Kincaid, 1986

The impressive east-facing wall has an assortment of bolts, though most routes require a bit of trad also. There are no lower-offs so build your own anchor on top.

Superb climbing in an excellent position. Start at the very left end of the wall, 1m R of Succession. Climb close to the arete (.5 and .4 camalots) and then follow bolts to the top.

FA: David Trehearne & Richard Evans, 1993

A traverse. Start as for LODS to a bolt. Head R to the first bolt on PRGM (crux) then follow a rising line past other bolts to the top bolt on IV Finish up IV.

FA: David Trehearne, Peter Kraehenbuehl & Leigh Rankin, 1993

Start at PRGM's crack but follow a L-leaning crack out to the left end of the wall. Up.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter & Michelle Crichton, 1993

Start as for Lepus Offus. Clip that route's first bolt then climb straight up past two more. LO holds are off limits.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

Start 4m R of Succession's corner. Up the crack. At the second (third?) bolt move L up a broken crack staying L of the high bolts.

FA: David Trehearne & Bob West, 1993

Up PRGM but step R at the first bolt and climb the vague crack to the R of the bolts. Do not use the corner of PRGM or the block L of the second (third?) bolt!

FA: David Trehearne & Bob West, 1993

Start below a bolt 3m R of PRGM. Straight up past the second bolt then stay L of the third.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

Start 2m L of the distinctive crack on the R side of the wall (Beneath the Bunnytail). Up to the middle of the horizontal break then move slightly R to a bolt. On to the top staying R 2 more bolts.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

The prominent crack on the R side of the wall.

FA: Peter Kraehenbuehl & Janine Tamblyn, 1993

Start below the bolt at the R end of the wall. Climb to a ledge at 7m. Move up L to a second bolt then straight up the wall to finish.

FA: David Trehearne & Darren Crawford, 1993

This impressive blade is located on the southern (left) side of the gorge. It's not a simple walk off.

From the small hole 1m L of GG climb up to the little R-leaning crack then move L to another crack. Head straight up to the small scoop avoiding the temptation to step into GG.

FA: Peter Beavis & David Brayshaw, 1986

The main crack in the centre of the wall.

FA: Peter Beavis & Al Wiese, 1986

Climb onto the ledge 2m R of Golden Gully, then up the centre of the pocketed wall.

FA: Peter Beavis, 1986

The crack up the face of the detached buttress 3m L of Manhattan.

FA: Al Wiese & Peter Beavis, 1986

Attractive line splitting the wall R of the corner.

FA: Al Wiese & Peter Beavis, 1986


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