Details needed

This crag does not have approach information!

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

Good rock, child-friendly, no walk-in.

Description

As you head through the gorge east-to-west, the climbing is on the large buttress to the right of the road and the narrow breadknife outcrop to the left of the road. Lucky Charm to Free Fred are on the front of the buttress facing the road. Emu Arse Lip Balm is on the west wall of the buttress. Succession is the steep corner between the front of the buttress and its east wall. Lepus Offus DS to Introduced Vermin are on the neat east wall (aka Lepus Wall). Noah's Ark to Lateral Thinking are on the west wall of the breadknife and Manhattan is on its east wall.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 * Lucky Charm Mixed 15m, 3

At the front of the buttress facing the road is a double overhang with a prominent crack through the lower roof. Up the crack then straight through the second overhang to finish. 3 bolts.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

2
15 Rabbit Killpatrick Trad 15m

3m R of Lucky Charm. Follow a crack that finishes in a chimney.

FA: Pat Ford & David Trehearne, 1993

3
12 Cute Buns Trad 20m

Locate two cracks at a small overhang 1.5m R of Rabbit Killpatrick. Up these (beware loose blocks at 2m) for 7m to a stance. Finish up the arete.

FA: David Trehearne & Russell Partridge, 1993

4

Up the juggy crack 2.5m R of Cute Buns to a ledge at 7m. Step L and continue up the crack.

FA: David Trehearne (solo), 1993

5
12 Free Fred Trad 20m

Find vertical cracks 2m L of the arete at the R end of the wall. Climb these to a ledge. Continue up into a chimney gully and on to the top.

FA: David Trehearne (solo), 1993

6

The large flake on the W-facing wall of the main buttress to a small roof, then directly up to a small tree.

FA: Pat Ford & B. Cain, 1995

7
18 * Succession Trad 20m

The overhanging corner at the L end of the east-facing wall (Lepus Wall).

FA: Peter Beavis & Alan Kincaid, 1986

8
18 * Lepus Offus DS Unknown 20m

Start 1m R of Succession. Climb the face close to the arete to bolts.

FA: David Trehearne & Richard Evans, 1993

9
19 * Woaming Wabbits Unknown 35m

A traverse. Start as for LODS to a bolt. Head R to the first bolt on PRGM (crux) then follow a rising line past other bolts to the top bolt on IV Finish up IV.

FA: David Trehearne, Peter Kraehenbuehl & Leigh Rankin, 1993

10
18 Lepus Offus Unknown 15m

Start at PRGM's crack but follow a L-leaning crack passing several bolts.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter & Michelle Crichton, 1993

11
19 Forced Eradication Unknown 15m, 3

Start as for Lepus Offus. Clip that route's first bolt then climb straight up past two more.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

12
18 Peter Rabbit Gets Mixy Unknown 15m

Start 4m R of Succession's corner. Up the crack. At the second bolt move L up a broken crack staying L of the high bolts.

FA: David Trehearne & Bob West, 1993

13
19 Spanish Flea Unknown 15m

Up PRGM but step R at the first bolt and climb the vague crack to the R of the bolts. Do not use the corner of PRGM or the block L of the second bolt!

FA: David Trehearne & Bob West, 1993

14
18 Pestilence Unknown 15m, 3

Start below a bolt 3m R of PRGM. Straight up past the second bolt then stay L of the third.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

15
17 Anodised Rabbit Unknown 15m, 2

Start 2m L of the distinctive crack on the R side of the wall (Beneath the Bunnytail). Up to the middle of the horizontal break then move slightly R to a bolt. On to the top staying R of a second bolt.

FA: David Trehearne & Steve Carter, 1993

16

The prominent crack on the R side of the wall.

FA: Peter Kraehenbuehl & Janine Tamblyn, 1993

17
21 * Introduced Vermin Mixed 15m, 2

Start below the bolt at the R end of the wall. Climb to a ledge at 7m. Move up L to a second bolt then straight up the wall to finish.

FA: David Trehearne & Darren Crawford, 1993

18
20 ** Noah's Ark Trad 10m

From the small hole 1m L of GG climb up to the little R-leaning crack then move L to another crack. Head straight up to the small scoop avoiding the temptation to step into GG.

FA: Peter Beavis & David Brayshaw, 1986

19
12 Golden Gully Trad 10m

The main crack in the centre of the wall.

FA: Peter Beavis & Al Wiese, 1986

20
21 Lateral Thinking Top rope 10m

Climb onto the ledge 2m R of Golden Gully, then up the centre of the pocketed wall.

FA: Peter Beavis, 1986

21
10 Hoboken Trad 14m

The crack up the face of the detached buttress 3m L of Manhattan.

FA: Al Wiese & Peter Beavis, 1986

22
13 * Manhattan Trad 14m

Attractive line splitting the wall R of the corner.

FA: Al Wiese & Peter Beavis, 1986

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.