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Description

The route locations need checking. A best guess is that Lucky Charm is on the buttress north of the road. Rabbit Killpatrick to Free Fred are on an east-facing wall R of LC. Emu Arse Lip Balm is on the west-facing wall of this buttress. Hoboken and Manhattan are on the east-facing wall south of the road and Succession to Introduced Vermin are on the west facing wall (aka Lepus Wall) of this buttress.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 ** Lucky Charm Mixed 15m, 2

At the front of the buttress facing the road is a double overhang with a prominent crack through the lower roof. Up the crack then through the second overhang to finish. 2 bolts.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter, 1993

2
15 Rabbit Killpatrick Trad 15m

2m R of Lucky Charm. Follow a crack that finishes in a chimney.

FA: Pat Ford, David Trehearne, 1993

3
12 Cute Buns Trad 20m

Locate two cracks at a small overhang 1.5m R of Rabbit Killpatrick. Up these (beware loose blocks at 2m) for 7m to a stance. Finish up the arete.

FA: David Trehearne, Russell Partridge, 1993

4

Up the juggy crack 2.5m R of Cute Buns to a ledge at 10m. Continue up the crack behind the dead tree.

FA: David Trehearne (solo), 1993

5
12 Free Fred Trad 20m

Find vertical cracks 2m L of the arete at the R end of the wall. Climb these to a ledge. Continue up into a chimney gully and on to the top.

FA: David Trehearne (solo), 1993

6

The the large flake on the W-facing wall of the main buttress to a small roof, then directly up to a small tree.

FA: Pat Ford, B. Cain, 1995

7
10 Hoboken Trad 14m

The crack up the face of the detached buttress 3m L of Manhattan.

FA: Al Wiese, Peter Beavis, 1986

8
13 * Manhattan Trad 14m

Attractive line splitting the wall R of the corner.

FA: Al Wiese, Peter Beavis, 1986

9
18 * Succession Trad 20m

The overhanging corner at the L end of Lepus Wall.

FA: Peter Beavis, Alan Kincaid, 1986

10
18 * Lepus Offus DS Unknown 20m

Start 1m R of Succession. Climb the face close to the arete to bolts.

FA: David Trehearne, Richard Evans, 1993

11
19 * Woaming Wabbits Unknown 35m

A traverse. Start as for LODS to a bolt. Head R to the first bolt on PRGM (crux) then follow a rising line past other bolts to the top bolt on IV Finish up IV.

FA: David Trehearne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, Leigh Rankin, 1993

12
18 Lepus Offus Unknown 15m

Start at PRGM's crack but follow a L-leaning crack passing several bolts.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter, Michelle Crichton, 1993

13
19 Forced Eradication Unknown 15m, 3

Start as for Lepus Offus. Clip that route's first bolt then climb straight up past two more.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter, 1993

14
18 Peter Rabbit Gets Mixy Unknown 15m

Start 4m R of Succession's corner. Up the crack. At the second bolt move L up a broken crack staying L of the high bolts.

FA: David Trehearne, Bob West, 1993

15
19 Spanish Flea Unknown 15m

Up PRGM but step R at the first bolt and climb the vague crack to the R of the bolts. Do not use the corner of PRGM or the block L of the second bolt!

FA: David Trehearne, Bob West, 1993

16
18 Pestilence Unknown 15m, 3

Start below a bolt 3m R of PRGM. Straight up past the second bolt then stay L of the third.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter, 1993

17
17 Anodised Rabbit Unknown 15m, 2

Start 2m L of the distinctive crack in the middle of the wall (Golden Gully). Up to the middle of the horizontal break then move slightly R to a bolt. On to the top staying R of a second bolt. This could be essentially a retrobolt of Noah's Ark climbed by Peter Beavis and David Brayshaw on 27.7.86.

FA: David Trehearne, Steve Carter, 1993

18
12 Golden Gully Unknown 15m

The main crack in the centre of the wall. Climbed by Peter Kraehenbuehl and Janine Tamblyn on 18.9.93 as Beneath the Bunnytail.

FA: Peter Beavis, Al Wiese, 1986

19
21 * Introduced Vermin Mixed 15m, 2

Start below the bolt at the R end of the wall. Climb to a ledge at 7m. Move up L to a second bolt then straight up the wall to finish. This was probably what Peter Beavis toproped on 19.7.86 and called Lateral Thinking.

FA: David Trehearne, Darren Crawford, 1993

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