Warren Gorge Mostly Trad climbing22 routes in crag
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Good rock, child-friendly, no walk-in.
As you head through the gorge east-to-west, the climbing is on the large buttress to the right of the road and the narrow breadknife outcrop to the left of the road. Lucky Charm to Free Feed are on the front of the buttress facing the road. Emu Arse Lip Balm is on the west wall of the buttress. Succession is the steep corner between the front of the buttress and its east wall. Lepus Offus DS to Introduced Vermin are on the neat east wall (aka Lepus Wall). Noah's Ark to Lateral Thinking are on the west wall of the breadknife and Manhattan is on its east wall.
The climbs on Lepus wall are mostly bolt protected but require a couple of trad pieces each. There are two bolts on top above Pestilence which you could belay from, or build your own anchor.
This is a very popular tourist destination with campers, 4wders and walkers. It is important that we minimise our impact on the area. Bolt hangers are painted to reduce visibility.
Step out of the car and look up - you're there!
Where to stay
Camp onsite for $10/night.
As well as the described routes in the Gorge itself, Ed Higginson, Frazer Baker and Michael Henningson have climbed at least 8 lines (grades 10-16) further north along the Warren Gorge Walking Trail. These are probably on the west-facing walls not far south of South Gorge (Argadells). The rock in the area is pretty ordinary.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)
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