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Summary

An amazing fin of rock right beside the trail to the Grand High Tops.

Description

Unfortunately climbing is prohibited on the Bread-knife due to close proximity of the tourist track. Any climbers caught climbing here could receive a hefty fine. The following routes are included for completeness and historical interest only. Descent was previously by a double-rope abseil from a bolt on N summit, or from slings on S summit. Climbs are listed clockwise down E Face and back along W Face.

Access issues

Climbing is prohibited on the Bread Knife.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 * East Face Trad 65m 5

An inspiring face and climb. Start below white streak from eagles' nest, just R of vines.

  1. 8 m Up large boulder for 5 m, then traverse 3 m L.

  2. 18 m Step down, traverse 6 m L, then over bulging rock to V-cleft and bolt belay.

  3. 9 m Traverse R on rising ledge to corner. Hard mantelshelf near bolt. Piton belay.

  4. 21 m Up and L to eagles' nest (hopefully empty!). Roof (bolt), then corner (crux).

  5. 9 m R round corner, up crack for 2 m, then R and up to bolt. Now L and up.

Originally 17,M2 with aid on pitch four.

FA: Bryden Allen & Ted Batty, 1964

FFA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter Treby, 1974

2
14 South-east Ramp Trad 33m 2

Start directly below first belay of South Arete, at steep,juggywall.

  1. 14 m Wall. Piton Belay.

  2. 19 m (crux) R to steep ramp, then through overhanging step. Ramp.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

3
11 ** South Arete Trad 33m 2

The original route to the top. Exposed. Start at gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Scramble along ridge for 15 m to base of arete.

  1. 12 m Two little walls, mantel, then up to pinnacle.

  2. 21 m Down, then L round arete to W face. Up and L to gain ridge.

FA: Russ Kippax & Bill Peascod, 1954

4
12 The Minor Route Trad 120m 5

Start on W Face, R of gap.

  1. 6 m Up break in overhang, then R to tree.

  2. 28 m Up until angle eases, then L.

  3. 33 m L past bush to piton belay.

  4. 35 m R and up. Piton belay.

  5. 18 m Gully

FA: Bryden Allen & Chris Regan, 1963

5
18 ** Heart-stopper Trad 190m 10

Brilliant route-finding. Start on W Face, at N end of overhang.

  1. 21 m Up rotten rock. piton, belay off block.

  2. 21m R across yellow wall (pitons) to piton belay.

  3. 21 m Up beneath overhang.

  4. 15 m R until looking down into central scoop. Slightly L to grey break in yellow overhang above. Up 3 m.

  5. 24 m Up steeply (pitons) to good stance.

  6. 18 m Up.

  7. 15 m Traverse down R.

  8. 15 m Traverse R, to R of chimney.

  9. 24 m Swing strenuously up wall on R, then L to gully.

  10. 15 m Gully

FA: Bryden Allen & Chris Regan, 1963

6
16 ** Broadsword Trad 320m 11

Girdle traverse of W side of Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Start as for North Arete.

1-3: 75 m Traverse R past smooth, grey rock and bolts to small stance just before steepening. Bolt or piton.

4: 30 m (crux) Diagonally R to ledge. Steep and exposed.

5-6: 60 m R until diagonally down is easier. Slabby, smooth, greenish rock to ledge.

7: 45 m Traverse R, crossing Minor Route, to below gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife.

8-11: 105 m Traverse R across Butter-knife to its S arete. Finish up this.

FA: John Ewbank & John Davis, 1964

7
14 Major Route Trad 150m 7

Start 10 m lower than North Arete.

1-7) Up past Heart-stopper to finish up Minor Route. Bolt and piton runners.

FA: Dick Smith & John Davis, 1965

8
13 * North Arete Trad 140m 9

Start on E side of Bread-knife at N end, up about 5 m on to rock ridge.

  1. 9 m Traverse 3 m L, then R under overhang.

  2. 9 m Traverse L to E Face, then corner and nose on R.

  3. 24 m Arete to ledge.

  4. 6 m Up.

  5. 6 m (crux) Over block and wall above.

6-7) 39 m Traverse L on to E face, then ramp to gap between summits.

'8) 12 m Up.

'9) 33 m Along· ridge to abseil point.

FA: Russ Kippax, J Field, P Hardy & David Roots, 1956

9
14 ** Skyline Traverse Trad 150m 6

Start as for North Arete.

  1. 18 m Arete to piton belay.

  2. 24 m Up W side of arete to base of steep wall.

  3. 36 m (crux) Up, round overhang, then traverse to ramp on E Face.

  4. 18 m Ramp to saddle, then up to N summit.

  5. 12 m From saddle, up W Face to S summit.

  6. 45 m Ridge to bolt belay on S arete.

FA: Russ Kippax, J Field, P Hardy & David Roots, 1956

Activity

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