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Description

This cliff is immediately south of the Bread-knife, and offers high-quality shorter routes. Climbs are described south to north, along the west face.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 * The Sabre Trad 78m, 3

Start at small buttress 18 m L of approach.

  1. 18 m Up.

  2. 27 m Still up.

  3. 33 m L to cracks; up these.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

2
19 * The Rapier Trad 81m, 3
  1. 21 m Up to piton belay 12m L of The Sabre.

  2. 24m Up steeply to small ledge. Piton belay.

  3. 36 m (crux) Up and R, then to yellow niche with hand-crack. Now traverse 5 m L, then wall and bulge to big corner. Up

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

3
18 M2 ** Stiletto Aid 90m, 3

Impetuous and daring. Start 9 m R of Cutlass, below steep, L-leading line.

  1. 33 m Up ramp, then R and up. Avoid overhang on L, then up to stance and belay.

  2. 27 m Up to piton, then R and up steeply to ledge. Now up L to ledge, then 5 m up and L to bolt belay.

  3. 30 m (crux) Up to small roof on nuts, then bolts up R. Free moves to gain further nut and bolt, then free moves R and up steep wall to piton. Up carefully to bush and blocks.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967

4
18 Cutlass Trad 87m, 3
  1. 39 m Up rib 9 m R of Minor Route for 9 m to overlap, then L and up R to small stance.

  2. 18 m Traverse 5 m L, then up to slot and piton belay at steepening.

  3. 30 m (crux) L and up for 5 m, then back R. Up past pitons, then R to groove. Up.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967

5
14 Toast and Jam Trad 30m

Crack at S end on E Face.

FA: Ross Vining, Bill Blunt & Al Ross, 1973

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