Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

This cliff is immediately south of the Bread-knife, and offers high-quality shorter routes. Climbs are described south to north, along the west face.

Access issues inherited from Warrumbungles

Most of the crags are in Warrumbungle National Park.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 * The Sabre Trad 78m 3

Start at small buttress 18 m L of approach.

  1. 18 m Up.

  2. 27 m Still up.

  3. 33 m L to cracks; up these.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

2
19 * The Rapier Trad 81m 3
  1. 21 m Up to piton belay 12m L of The Sabre.

  2. 24m Up steeply to small ledge. Piton belay.

  3. 36 m (crux) Up and R, then to yellow niche with hand-crack. Now traverse 5 m L, then wall and bulge to big corner. Up

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

3
18 M2 ** Stiletto Aid 90m 3

Impetuous and daring. Start 9 m R of Cutlass, below steep, L-leading line.

  1. 33 m Up ramp, then R and up. Avoid overhang on L, then up to stance and belay.

  2. 27 m Up to piton, then R and up steeply to ledge. Now up L to ledge, then 5 m up and L to bolt belay.

  3. 30 m (crux) Up to small roof on nuts, then bolts up R. Free moves to gain further nut and bolt, then free moves R and up steep wall to piton. Up carefully to bush and blocks.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967

4
18 Cutlass Trad 87m 3
  1. 39 m Up rib 9 m R of Minor Route for 9 m to overlap, then L and up R to small stance.

  2. 18 m Traverse 5 m L, then up to slot and piton belay at steepening.

  3. 30 m (crux) L and up for 5 m, then back R. Up past pitons, then R to groove. Up.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967

5
14 Toast and Jam Trad 30m

Crack at S end on E Face.

FA: Ross Vining, Bill Blunt & Al Ross, 1973

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Butter-Knife.