Crater Bluff Mostly trad climbing24 routes in area
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One of the four prominent spires in the Park. This peak offers some of the most popular routes in the 'Bungles. Despite initial appearances, Crater Bluff is not flat on top-the peak is in fact carved by deep canyons, the deepest and most extensive of which is filled with ferns and is known as the Green Glacier.
Home to the much loved "Cornerstone Rib".
Climbs are described clockwise from Tourist Route.© (koala)
Access issues inherited from Warrumbungles
Most of the crags are in Warrumbungle National Park.
Approach from Dagda Saddle. Follow the climber's path down the creek till it joins another creek below the west face. If you walk up diagonally left you arrive below the gully that leads up to leiben, and this is where the descent ends up too, a good place to leave shoes etc. For Cornerstone Rib, head left along the base, to the far north west corner.
The normal descent is down "Green Glacier", a canyon that splits the summit. This can be tricky in the dark or wet; take care and rope up when necessary. The first possible abseil is near the top of the canyon and is an easy down climb if dry. The chains are on the far right of the canyon (looking down). You follow a vague path down about 12m and they are on the right wall just below a small tree. There are other random anchors on the way down if it's wet or dark. The first obligatory rap station is where the canyon abruptly ends at the waterfall. Chains are at knee height on the left wall. Its a 30m rap to the terrace. From here walk down and left (facing the cliff) about 20m, and scramble down a short gully, walk left 8m or so, then up onto a block. The rap chains are about 6m away from the wall, slightly over the edge. Hard to see and slightly dodgy to reach without clipping into something or belaying. The final rap is past one good ledge at 20m to a large ledge at 35m where you can walk off easily. If you rap all the way to the ground, 50m or so, it is harder to pull your ropes and they get stuck on the big ledge and then pull rocks on your head. -- description adapted slightly from http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Crater+Bluff© (koala)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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