Crater Bluff All Trad climbing26 routes in area
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One of the four prominent spires in the Park. This peak offers some of the most popular routes in the 'Bungles. Despite initial appearances, Crater Bluff is not flat on top-the peak is in fact carved by deep canyons, the deepest and most extensive of which is filled with ferns and is known as the Green Glacier.
Home to the much loved "Cornerstone Rib".
Climbs are described right to left from Tourist Route.
Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required.© (koala)
Approach from Dagda Saddle. Follow the well defined climber's path down the creek till it joins another creek below the west face. If you follow the track up diagonally left you arrive below the gully that leads up to the face and from here you can continue up, past an enormous boulder, to the wall, arriving near the start of Lieben. This is where the descent ends up too and it is a good place to leave shoes etc. For Cornerstone Rib, head left along the base, to the far north west corner where the start is fairly obvious.
The normal descent is down "Green Glacier", a canyon that splits the summit and can safely be descended with a single 70m rope. From the top of Cornerstone Rib it is the obvious right hand canyon that has a fairly defined track leading down into it.
The descent is relatively straight forward however it can be tricky in the dark or wet; take care and rope up when necessary. The first optional abseil is near the top of the canyon and is an easy down climb if dry. The chains are on the far right of the canyon (looking down). You follow a vague path down about 12m and they are on the right wall just below a small tree. There are other random anchors on the way down if it's wet or dark. The first obligatory rap station is where the canyon abruptly ends at the waterfall. Chains are at knee height on the left wall. Its a 30m rap to the terrace. From here walk down and right (facing out from the cliff), following the many, many cairns, about 20m, and scramble down a short gully, walk right (facing out) 8m or so, then scramble up onto a block. The rap chains are about 6m away from the wall, slightly over the edge and a little hard to spot but fairly safe to get to. The final rap is past one good ledge at 20m to a large ledge at 35m where you can walk off easily. If you rap all the way to the ground, 50m or so, it is harder to pull your ropes and they get stuck on the big ledge and then pull rocks on your head.
From here it is easy to orientate yourself and wander back to the trail you walked in on.© (koala)
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