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Description

One of the four prominent spires in the Park. Home to the much loved "Cornerstone Rib Direct"

© (koala)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
9 * Tourist Route Unknown 63m
2
18 The Crucifixion Unknown 250m
3
17 R * Leavin' Trad 250m

Direct line to the final pitches of Leider.

Start: 15m R of the large white streak on the L side of the W face. The climb starts on a small pedestal 7m off ground. Scramble from R, or walk on from L.

  1. 48m (17) Step up R onto face. Pitch drifts R past incipient twin seams to the higher of two narrow sloping ledges. Take many small wires.

  2. 50m (17) Step off L end of ledge. Unlikely, exposed, blind moves up L around blunt arete. Up and trend L around steepening on L side. Up to spacious ledge. Take care with rope drag.

  3. 38m (17) Take slab up past loose blocks to old bolt(!?) at 38m

  4. 25m (-) Up rightwards on imperfect apricot coloured rock to wide crack of Leider. Up to stance

  5. 25m (-) Follow Rib to R side of plant choked gully

  6. 25m (-) Follow Rib to R side of plant choked gully

FA: Mark Wood, Julian Devery, 1998

4
17 R ** Lieben Trad 260m

A wild excursion up a huge face. No big gear required, just heaps of small to medium wires and single set of cams. Long runners will help.

Start: In the middle of the west face is a white water streak (about 50m to the right of the large one about 20m from the far LHS).

  1. 25m (1) Original route cheated by scrambling up the vegetated gully on the right un-roped (grade 1). Real climbers should just climb the rambly wall to the left of the vegetated gully to a small ledge right of the bottom of the white streak.

  2. 30m (15) Straight up face to belay on a ledge about 5m up and right of top of white streak.

  3. 25m (16) Keep heading left (fiddly gear) on a roughly 45 degree angle until you reach a corner. Head straight up this and belay after 5m or so.

  4. 45m (17) Crux. Either up the rib on the right of the corner, or up the steep juggy corner. At 20m step right to small edge (manky BR and optional belay) or continue up crack line above. Belay on huge ledge about 2/3 height of entire west face.

  5. 40m (16) Crack tending slightly right then basically straight up to the top.

  6. 35m (10) Keep going up the very easy rocky ridge to the top

FA: Bryden Allen & Ted Batty, 1962

5
18 Lieben Direct Start Unknown 48m
6
16 * Lieder Trad 260m

Supposed to be quite Good. If you want to suss out 'Lieben' before committing to it, this is the way to do it.

Start: About 10m right of 'Cornerstone Rib' at base of rightward leading crack system

  1. 33m (-) Follow right leading crack system

  2. 30m (-) Keep heading up and right to belay on huge ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Scramble across the steep rocky gully to belay below right of two ribs

  4. 40m (-) Up gully then left of two ribs on the right of the major corner system.

  5. 25m (-) up past 2 BR's and PR, chimney to chockstone

  6. 40m (-) up

FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1963

7
15 Vintage Rib Unknown 160m
8
13 Reluctance Rib Unknown 160m
9
13 Rib and Gully Unknown 200m
11

The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justly so. The crux pitches are grade 14, the other gradings are my estimation.

  1. 30m (6) The first 90 metres was originally climbed in three pitches but can be done quite safely in two rope stretching pitches (50m rope), including comfy belays.

  2. 30m (12)

  3. 30m (12)

  4. 20m (14) Pitches 4 and 5 are the crux and are often linked - Move out around the rib at the little horn and onto the northern face for a approx 5m and then up or stick closer to the arette - just follow your nose for good gear placements.

  5. 20m (14)

  6. 20m (13) Up the rib from here on. The ledges for good belays are pretty obvious and about 20 metres apart.

  7. 20m (12)

  8. 20m (11)

FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1962

12
8 *** Cornerstone Rib Trad 220m

one of the best, most striking lines here. A total megaclassic at the grade. Hard to find much like it anywhere else in 'Australia'.

Start: See 'North Face' for full route description

13
20 Buying the Farm Unknown 190m
14
18 Out of Sight Unknown 150m
15
15 Diagonal Route Unknown 240m
16
11 Cross-cut Unknown 160m
17
17 North Face Route Unknown 190m
18
18 Outbluffed Unknown
19
14 M1 Job Aid 120m
20
12 Eastern Route Unknown 90m
21
18 Crucifixion Trad
22

Direct start to 'Crucifixion'. Easy start on trad, then techy face past three FHs to runout scary finish on shallow small wires to double bolt anchor at end of 'Crucifixion' pitch 1.

Start: Starts as for 'Crucifixion'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

23
24 * Verdun Trad 260m

Possibly the hardest multi-pitch in the Bungles. Tackles the major face between 'Crucifixion' and the Tourist Route. This is NOT a sport route - and the rock quality is a bit sub par on pitch 4. Take a double set of cams to fist size, double rack of wires including RPs, at least 15 draws and several long slings. A helmet is also a must.

Starts on right side of east face at section of black steep slabs, aprox 100m left of the rap descent route.

  1. 35m (20) Wall (3 FHs) to left facing orange corner with fiddly small gear. At the top of corner step left onto wall (vital small wires) and then up trending slightly right past 2 FHs and several small wires and cams. Belay on ledge at DBB. 5 bolts.

  2. 30m (14) Up blocky crackline just to the left of the belay to small ledge belay 3m left of major chossy orange corner (Hex Generation).

  3. 25m (22) Straight up tricky wall on trad for 10m to FH, then continue up and right on steep grey wall and arete past a further 4 FHs to final exposed right step across crack into pea-pod belay directly above 'Hex Generation' crackline. 5 bolts.

  4. 40m (24) Pumpy technical climbing on the left wall - keeping left of the bolts makes for harder but better climbing. Stay right and experience chossy terror. When the bolts run out follow the corner crack for 25m to comfy big ledge. 6 bolts.

  5. 48m (24) Move belay to double bolts at far left end of ledge. Up slab and out left across face with couple of tough moves. Finish up epic wall with a section of micro wires supplementing the bolts. Belay on ledge at double rings. This is the last opportunity to rap off. 9 bolts.

  6. 45m (14) Up blocky line above then leftwards up easy angled corner on lovely rock. Belay on trad when you can.

  7. 40m (14) Continue up leftwards leaning easy crack line to summit. Traverse ridge and then down the Green 'Gully'.

FFA: Neil Monteith (lead all pitches) & Mike Law, 2010

24
20 R Hex Generation Trad 20m

The major orange crackline splitting the right side of the east face. Appallingly chossy. There was an old hex jammed in the crack halfway up - most likely a bail-off piece as the crack above held several 'fun' death block surprises for the first ascent team. Start by climbing Verdun for 2 pitches then setup a trad belay 2m right of the bolt belay. Swing right from the belay into corner. Wade and chimney through epic choss (but good gear!) until the crack suddenly narrows and the walls begin to blank. Jam upwards whilst lobbing off bombs onto your cowering belayers to grovel into pea-pod belay. Thank the lord that there is now two bolts here to belay off, and not the man sized pile of rubble that first confronted the first ascent team. A rest was resorted to on the first ascent due to adrenaline overload.

FA: Neil Monteith (2nd refused to follow), 2010