Bluff Mountain All Trad climbing48 routes in area
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Few cliffs in Australia compare to the N Face of Bluff Mountain in terms of height and seriousness but its special quality derives from the astounding number of fop-class routes it offers. A word of warning, however-any climb on Bluff Mountain is a serious undertaking, with ascent, route-finding and retreat all difficult propositions. These routes can be expected to take a full day, if not longer.
For most of the routes on this wall a double rack of cams from BD 0.3 to 3 along with maybe a single no. 4 and a few smaller ones make for a excellent rack. Combine this with a single set of nuts and a few smaller hexes and you'll be plugging in protection where ever you want. Alternatively, with a single set of cams, a double set of nuts, a full set of hexes and some gear placing wizardry, these routes would also be quite manageable, if slightly more exciting. It is also important to make sure you extend almost every placement to within an inch of its life as many of the routes wander and not having to worry about rope drag makes everything more enjoyable.
Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix".
Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required.© (koala)
Most people approach from Nuada Saddle. North east of the camp ground a cairned path contours around and dips around some rocky ridges, finally emerging onto a giant scree slope at the east end of the face. It's worth sussing out the access before an early start on your chosen mega climb. From Balor hut this approach takes about an hour.
From camp Pincham the fastest approach to Bluff Mt is by taking the West Spirey Creek track to Ogma Saddle. Leave the trail at the junction heading south east. Contour across Bluff Creek and head for the obvious scree slope beneath Stonewall Jackson. There are occasional cairns along this path but you mainly end up linking goat trails for most of the way. This approach involves some scrub bashing but it is possible to be roped up and climbing in just over an hour.
To descend, follow the tourist walking track from the summit back to Nuada Saddle.© (koala)
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