Bluff Mountain All Trad climbing48 routes in area
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Few cliffs in Australia compare to the N Face of Bluff Mountain in terms of height and seriousness but its special quality derives from the astounding number of fop-class routes it offers. A word of warning, however-any climb on Bluff Mountain is a serious undertaking, with ascent, route-finding and retreat all difficult propositions. These routes can be expected to take a full day, if not longer.
Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix".
Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required.© (koala)
Most people approach from Nuada Saddle. North east of the camp ground a cairned path contours around and dips around some rocky ridges, finally emerging onto a giant scree slope at the east end of the face. It's worth sussing out the access before an early start on your chosen mega climb. From Balor hut this approach takes about an hour.
From camp Pincham the fastest approach to Bluff Mt is by taking the West Spirey Creek track to Ogma Saddle. Leave the trail at the junction heading south east. Contour across Bluff Creek and head for the obvious scree slope beneath Stonewall Jackson. This approach involves some scrub bashing but it is possible to be roped up and climbing in just over an hour.
To descend, follow the tourist walking track from the summit back to Nuada Saddle.© (koala)
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