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Description

An imposing cliff with routes typically 250 metres or more in length. There are a couple of easier lines on it's eastern end, but from there the going gets a lot more serious.

Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix"

© (koala)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 North-west Gully Unknown 190m
2
13 Bastion Buttress Trad 240m

A great line and a good introduction to the Bluff.

Start: There is an obvious start to the climb, but after that you will probably end up choosing your own belay stances.

  1. 30m (13) Start at the base of the prominant, blunt buttress. Move up trending left (don't go too high) to a good recess.

  2. 30m (13) Don't go too far to the left on the 2nd pitch, but move up to the buttress when feasible.

  3. 35m (12) The pitch lengths might vary, I have just added 35 metre pitches to complete the total climb length in the 7 pitches. Also the grades certainly ease up as you gain height and the grades stated are my own estimation.

  4. 35m (11)

  5. 35m (11)

  6. 35m (10)

  7. 40m (7)

FA: Keith Bell, Greg Mortimer (alt), 1972

3
17 Rim-fire Unknown 480m
4
17 M1 Rim-fire Variant Aid 500m
5
21 Over and Out Unknown 250m
6
22 Petes' new route Mixed 200m, 4

FA: Pete Grezl, 2012

7
20 Stonewall Jackson Unknown 290m
8
17 Rebel Tour Unknown 150m
9
20 Blade-runner Unknown 260m
10
19 * London's Dockyard Unknown 300m
11
19 Escalade Unknown 230m
12
20 Poor Man's Flight Unknown 300m
13
20 Kante Betrachtugn Unknown 300m
14

Absolutely classic, possibly the best climb I have ever done. It's hard to find a thing wrong with this route. Ok, maybe the abseil after P2 is a pain, but it's still an incredible route!! Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock - what a classic! The Bungles provides another absolute icon of Australian climbing!!

Start: Start 8m down R of SJ at a stylish slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start. Take a 2m sling for the rap after P2.

  1. 45m (18) Up jamcrack (trickier than appears) for 12m, then step L onto nose. Up for a few moves then do an intricate (dicky?) traverse R across slab and tricky step onto nose below chains. Nice moves lead up nose to chain, step slightly L and up corner to small belay stance at small tree/bush ~8m above chain (PR, wire, small cams).

  2. 30m (18) Slightly harder than P1, with brilliant sustained climbing at the grade the whole way! With flaring jams and fingerlocks, tricky stemming up the steep recessed corner above the PR gains a precarious thin crack in short slab above. (From here it is possible to head diagonally R at grade 19 to eliminate the rap after P2 - though you'll miss out on a fantastic pitch!). Delicately step L on slab when possible then up next steep corner. Step R onto another short slab, then straight up with more great moves over bulges all the way to a large belay ledge. Rap and tension down R for 18m to a surprisingly airy stance in small corner at lowest point of orange 'wing' (many small wires and #3 camalot down low behind loose-ish block).

  3. 45m (14) Traverse R from belay (sketchy gear to start), then follow the line of least resistance diagonally R up the slab, continuous climbing at the grade in a fantastic position 100m off the deck, and following one of the most recognisable lines in Australian climbing - awesome! Generally, stay below the steep orange stuff, and at the base of the vertical black rock. Nearing the wingtip, climb up then slightly R to footledge at small bush (med. cams and wires) - a brilliant exposed belay stance. 4) (* 42m 14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness ~6m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 6) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P5 needs to go.

  4. 42m (14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness ~6m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 6) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P5 needs to go.

  5. 42m (15) Has some slightly grotty rock but the holds are fine and the climbing is great, and you're way up there!! :-) Up off belay then follow the slightly L leaning groove to nice moves to surmount the steepening. Continue up, trending slightly L to some

  6. 48m (13) Unremarkable - maybe gets a star for being 200m in the air? Climb gully/corner, straying onto L wall whenever easier. 'Steep' moves at 40m to exit gully, then up to belay at base of pisseasy slab.

  7. 48m (3) Roar up pisseasy slab to top. What a ripper of a route!

16
22 Xoanon Unknown 110m
17
24 Cracked Pane Unknown 300m
18
19 Ahab Unknown 360m
19
21 Lusty's Unknown 300m
20
17 ** Elijah Unknown 360m
21
21 Trouser Tracks Unknown 320m
22
20 Abraham Unknown 330m
23
19 * Aladinsane Unknown 320m
24
22 Aladinsane Direct Finish Unknown 130m
25
21 Captain Blood Unknown 350m
26
19 * Ginsberg Unknown 330m
27
18 * Neruda Unknown 340m
28
19 Neruda Direct Unknown 320m
29
23 For Starters Unknown 320m
30
21 Gettysberg Address Unknown 320m
31
20 Baal Unknown 300m
32
20 * Ulysses Unknown 240m
33
21 Ulysses Direct Start Unknown 70m
35
16 Bonfire of the Vanities Unknown 190m
36
18 Tantalus Unknown 230m
38
20 Steeplechase Unknown 90m
39
21 Tartarus Unknown 230m

FA: Ian Lewis, Kim Carrigan, 1974

40
19 * Icarus Unknown 290m
41
23 Ultra-violent Unknown 35m
42
19 Falling Feathers Unknown 280m
43
21 Childhood's End Unknown 260m
44
20 Daedalus Unknown 260m
45
18 Meschach Unknown 260m
46
18 Tickle My Fancy Unknown 30m

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Routes

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Grade Route
48
17 Suds'n'all Trad 35m

Start beneath the yellow, fragile roofs at the right end of the crag. Scramble up ledges, then sticking to the good dark rock, move up and L to beneath crack in roof guarding a short chimney. Through roof with feeling, passing the "dagger of doom" (a sharp wedged chockstone).

FA: Stu Dobbie, Heath Washbrook, 2009