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Description

Few cliffs in Australia compare to the N Face of Bluff Mountain in terms of height and seriousness but its special quality derives from the astounding number of fop-class routes it offers. A word of warning, however-any climb on Bluff Mountain is a serious undertaking, with ascent, route-finding and retreat all difficult propositions. These routes can be expected to take a full day, if not longer.

Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix".

Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required.

© (koala)

Approach

Most people approach from Nuada Saddle. North east of the camp ground a cairned path contours around and dips around some rocky ridges, finally emerging onto a giant scree slope at the east end of the face. It's worth sussing out the access before an early start on your chosen mega climb. From Balor hut this approach takes about an hour.

From camp Pincham the fastest approach to Bluff Mt is by taking the West Spirey Creek track to Ogma Saddle. Leave the trail at the junction heading south east. Contour across Bluff Creek and head for the obvious scree slope beneath Stonewall Jackson. This approach involves some scrub bashing but it is possible to be roped up and climbing in just over an hour. To descend, follow the tourist walking track from the summit back to Nuada Saddle.

© (koala)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 North-west Gully Trad 190m, 6

Start at water groove leading L on L side of N Face.

  1. 30m General leftward scramble.

  2. 33m To small ledge beneath a small wall in a gully.

  3. 24m Right then up to a crack. Up it to belay on left.

  4. 30m Up gully until blocked by a small chimney. Go 2m to the right, then left to large ledge around corner.

  5. 36m General scramble.

  6. 36m Anywhere! Pleasant slabs.

FA: P.Gripffiths, B.Montgomery, C lvin, P Griffiths & B Montgomery, 1960

2
13 * Bastion Buttress Trad 240m, 7

A great line and a good introduction to Bluff Mountain.

Start: There is an obvious start to the climb, but after that you will probably end up choosing your own belay stances.

  1. 30m (13) Start at the base of the prominant, blunt buttress. Move up trending left (don't go too high) to a good recess.

  2. 30m (13) Don't go too far to the left on the 2nd pitch, but move up to the buttress when feasible.

  3. 35m (12) The pitch lengths might vary, I have just added 35 metre pitches to complete the total climb length in the 7 pitches. Also the grades certainly ease up as you gain height and the grades stated are my own estimation.

  4. 35m (11)

  5. 35m (11)

  6. 35m (10)

  7. 40m (7)

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

For historic purposes, the original description is:

1-2) 60 m (crux) Slab, then L to overhang. Up L of overhang and buttress. A more direct route is to start 30 m L of original start and climb straight up buttress.

3-7) 160 m R towards buttress. Now up, tending R after cresting ridge.

FA: Keith Bell & Greg Mortimer (alt), 1972

3
17 Rim-fire Trad 480m, 15

A girdle traverse of Bluff Mountain from Bastion Buttress to Ginsberg. Start as for Bastion Buttress.

1-2: 90 m Follow Bastion Buttress to sloping ledge on prow.

3: 10 m Traverse R across stab to corner.

4: 35 m Traverse R, corner, then R to belay just short of Stonewall Jackson.

5: Down climb crack to stance in Stonewall Jackson, near lone grass· tree.

6: 35 m R to sickle shaped corner.

7: 35 m Corner, then R on face to large rock on ledge.

8: 25 m R, then R and up across orange rock to good ledge.

9: Traverse R to start of pitch 12 on Elijah.

10: 35m R and up to ledge.

11: 30m Traverse R.

12: 30 m R across void.

13: 15 m Round buttress to good ledge at base of gully.

14-15: 90 m Finish up Ginsberg.

FA: Greg Mortimer & Keith Bell (alt), 1976

4
17 M1 Rim-fire Variant Trad 500m, 16

Inferior to original.

1-9) As for Rim·fire.

10-16) Down and along Elijah's traverse. Continue traversing R at this level for about one pitch, then lower off fixed nut to easy ledges. Along these to join Ginsberg. Finish up Ginsberg or Neruda.

FA: Keith Bell & Keith Lockwood, 1977

5
21 Corinth Trad 240m, 6

Start between Bastion Buttress and Over and Out.

  1. 50m Straight up to prominent slab which has a left facing corner on the right. Up through corner directly above the slab. Belay on ledge.

  2. 40m Traverse diagonally right for 25m until at the base of a prominent V. Climb the corner which forms the left branch of the V. Straight up face to ledge. RP and bolt.

  3. 25m (crux) Start left of piton, up to rail, traverse right, bolt, to corner. Up corner then left onto ledge, bolt, up past bolt to gain ledge. Traverse diagonally left to base of prominent corner.

  4. 25m Up steep corner to ledge. Up to sloping ledge at base of corner.

  5. 55m Up corner until possible to traverse right for 10m. Up through roof and corner to easier ground.

  6. 40m Up easily.

FA: Peter Grezl & Peter Kuczera, 2012

6
21 Over and Out Trad 250m, 7

Starts 15 m L of Stonewall Jackson.

  1. 45 m Up groove to R-leading ramps. Lower ramp for 10 m, then ramp above to small roof. Past this on R; lower then upper ramp to flake.

  2. 35 m Ramp for 15 m, then up past ledges to small corner below flake-crack.

  3. 20 m Flake, past bulge to ledges.

  4. 35 m Crack on R; L to cracks. Up to bolt belay.

  5. 30 m Up to bush, then R along lip of Stonewall Jackson roof. Groove.

  6. 45 m Up R to groove on L. Groove, then R past tree.

  7. 40 m Up L, then easily to L-leading groove. Up.

FA: Lucas Trihey & Keith Bell (alt), 1989

7
22 Petes' new route Mixed 200m, 4

FA: Pete Grezl, 2012

8
20 * Stonewall Jackson Trad 290m, 12

The prominent corner with a big roof at half height.

Start at groove R of main crack-corner system.

  1. 38 m Groove, then tend R steeply. Carefully L to stance.

  2. 38 m Up to ledge and black slot, then up to corner and fir.

  3. 15 m L to corner. Up to lodge on L. Piton belay.

  4. 15 m Up, then R wall of corner to stance. Piton belay.

  5. 22 m Corner, loose blocks and piton runners. Now, L 2 m to below corner. Good bivvy ledge 6 m L.

  6. 27 m Corner, bulge to piton/ bolt belay.

  7. 27 m Traverse R 15 m past pitons, then up R to shelf. Piton belay.

  8. 24 m Corner past piton runner, then chimney to bolt belay at steepening.

  9. 21 m (crux) Up past bush, bulge and small roof. Loose. Squeeze-chimney and bulge, past dead tree to ledge.

  10. 18 m Up 4 m to bulge, then L below overhanging wall. Round nose, then R to tree.

  11. 21 m Chimney.

  12. 24 m R side of gully.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Originally climbed as 17, M4 with aid on pitches two, six and nine.

FA: John Ewbank & Bryden Allen, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Ian Lewis, 1974

9
17 Rebel Tour Trad 250m

A variant to Stonewall Jackson, avoiding poor rock below roof.

1-2: 76 m As for Stonewall Jackson.

3: 24 m Wall, then diagonally R to large ledge below roof.

4: 45 m L-leading crack past grass-tree to L side of roof. Roof, then R to stance L of groove.

5: 5 m Wall to ledge at end of on Stonewall Jackson. Finish up Stonewall Jackson.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1983

10
20 Blade-runner Trad 260m, 7

Steep and exposed.

1-3: 100 m As for Rebel tour.

4: 40 m Up and slightly R to surmount sickle-shaped overhang, then up R to belay.

5: 40m Wall staying close to arete.

6: 35 m Slab on R of buttress to steepening, then L to front of buttress. Up, then Swing L to ledge. Up to belay ledge.

7: 40 m Slab on R or buttress on L.

FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini (alt), 1987

11
19 ** London's Dockyard Trad 300m

Wall at half ·height is one of the best pitches on Bluff Mountain. Start as for Stonewall Jackson.

1-8: Follow Stonewall Jackson until about pitch three. Move R to ledge below sickle-shaped roof. Continue R until below R end of roof, then R from corner. Wall above.

FA: Keith Lockwood & John Bowen, 1976

12
19 Escalade Trad 230m

This route apparently climbs out of London's Dockyard, leaving that route at wall on pitch five (although there seems to be some confusion over exactly where London's Dockyard goes in the upper pitches). Approach by way of Stonewall Jackson.

1-3: 110 m As for Rebel Tour.

4: 10 m Traverse R along ledges to blocks in corner.

5: 30 m Corner, then R round block on to main face. Now slightly L up wall to small tree:

6: 30 m Traverse R to end of ledge, then up to bolt belay in corner below bulge.

7: 30 m Move L, then bulge.

8: 20 m Easily up

FA: Keith Boll & Ray Tasman, 1982

13
20 Poor Man's Flight Trad 300m

Approach by way of Stonewall Jackson.

1-3: 110 m As for Rebel Tour.

4: 45 m Descend to traverse·line, then R along this. Now crack formed by large blocks; step across blocks, then R to stance.

5: 35 m Vague corner, staying R of brown rock. Exit L, than L and up to stance.

6: 40 m Groove to ledge 5 m below roofs.

7: 40 m Traverse L, then wall to L of arete. Now R to groove above overhang. Groove, then R under bulges.

8: 30 m Up, then L into final gully of Flight of the Phoenix.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1983

14
20 Kante Betrachtugn Trad 300m

Start at foot of large tree just L of prominent over- hung arete between Stonewall Jackson and Flight of the Phoenix.

  1. 40 m Up and R awkwardly to base of prominent orange dihedral. Up and slightly L past bolt, then up L round nose to easier ground.

2-6) Continue up past belay lodges on good rock, sparse pro.

FA: Roark Muhlen-Schulle & Tony Nemec, 1985

15
18 *** Flight of the Phoenix Trad 330m, 7

Absolutely classic, possibly the best climb I have ever done. It's hard to find a thing wrong with this route. Ok, maybe the abseil after P2 is a pain, but it's still an incredible route!! Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock - what a classic! The Bungles provides another absolute icon of Australian climbing!!

Start: Start 8m down R of SJ at a stylish slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start. Take a 2m sling for the rap after P2.

  1. 45m (18) Up jamcrack (trickier than appears) for 12m, then step L onto nose. Up for a few moves then do an intricate (dicky?) traverse R across slab and tricky step onto nose below chains. Nice moves lead up nose to chain, step slightly L and up corner to small belay stance at small tree/bush ~8m above chain (PR, wire, small cams).

  2. 30m (18) Slightly harder than P1, with brilliant sustained climbing at the grade the whole way! With flaring jams and fingerlocks, tricky stemming up the steep recessed corner above the PR gains a precarious thin crack in short slab above. (From here it is possible to head diagonally R at grade 19 to eliminate the rap after P2 - though you'll miss out on a fantastic pitch!). Delicately step L on slab when possible then up next steep corner. Step R onto another short slab, then straight up with more great moves over bulges all the way to a large belay ledge.

  3. Rap and tension down R for 18m to a surprisingly airy stance in small corner at lowest point of orange 'wing' (many small wires and #3 camalot down low behind loose-ish block). It's a crappy belay so try this:- set a belay there and leave one rope doubled through the rap point (36m) and lead out on the remaining 14m (along with the other rope) till there's enuff gear in to feel safe pulling the belay rope down.

  4. 45m (14) Traverse R from belay (sketchy gear to start), then follow the line of least resistance diagonally R up the slab, continuous climbing at the grade in a fantastic position 100m off the deck, and following one of the most recognisable lines in Australian climbing - awesome! Generally, stay below the steep orange stuff, and at the base of the vertical black rock. Nearing the wingtip, climb up then slightly R to footledge at small bush (med. cams and wires) - a brilliant exposed belay stance.

  5. 42m (14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness ~6m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 6) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P5 needs to go.

  6. 42m (15) Has some slightly grotty rock but the holds are fine and the climbing is great, and you're way up there!! Up off belay then follow the slightly L leaning groove to nice moves to surmount the steepening. Continue up, trending slightly L to some

  7. 48m (13) Unremarkable - maybe gets a star for being 200m in the air? Climb gully/corner, straying onto L wall whenever easier. 'Steep' moves at 40m to exit gully, then up to belay at base of pisseasy slab.

  8. 48m (3) Roar up pisseasy slab to top. What a ripper of a route!

For historic purposes and in contrast to the above description, the original description is as follows:

A classic, up prominent low ramps R of Stonewall Jackson. Start 20 m R of Stonewall Jackson corner.

  1. 50 m Slightly R to loose blocks.

  2. 20 m Up to ledge.

  3. Down, then traverse R below orange rock.

  4. 50 m Up R on ledges.

  5. 50 m Up and slightly R.

  6. Up, then back L past roofs to gully.

7-8) 90 m Gully.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1974

16

7a-8a) Buttress R of exit gully.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1982

17
22 Xoanon Trad 110m

Possibly the first three pitches of Cracked Pane. Start 50 m R of Stonewall Jackson.

  1. 35 m Prominent weakness to headwall, cracks. Move R to corner, then wide crack to stance.

  2. 35 m Prominent corner tending R to top of ramp. Up to blocks below groove.

  3. 40 m Steep wall and groove, then L to join Flight of the Phoenix. Belay on ledge level with top of diagonal overhang.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1983

18
24 Cracked Pane Trad 300m

Climbs up to and across Flight of the Phoenix, joining London's Dockyard to finish.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1982

19
19 Ahab Trad 360m, 11

Tackles arete between Flight of the Phoenix and Elijah. Start near Xoanon.

  1. 40 m Up for 15 m, then R along ramp.

  2. 25 m Up, then R over block to stance.

  3. 30 m Wall above through bulges, then L to tree.

  4. 35 m Groove, then Land up slab. At headwall, traverse R along ramp.

  5. 35 m L, then bulge to vague groove. Groove to belay on L.

  6. 30 m R, then L up groove until possible to move R towards arete.

  7. 35 m Wall to groove above overhang. Groove. then wall.

  8. 35 m R across buttress, then up to big ledge. Now L, through bulge, up wall to bolt belay at top of Elijah pitch 12.

9-11) 95 m As for Elijah.

FA: . Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1982

20
21 Lusty's Trad 300m

Start just R of arete between Flight of the Phoenix and Elijah. Climb arete, mainly on its R. Sustained.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1982

21
17 *** Elijah Trad 360m, 12

An amazing achievement for its time.

Original start marked with a small 'E' under large orange overhangs up high. We started a little right of here (maybe 15 meters). This description should be used in conjunction with available guidebook descriptions. I have not mentioned the carrots and pitons you may or may not see along the way. Bring lots of small gear and slings the climb zigs and zags quite alot to keep its grade. There are some topos out there that are incorrect. One shows the last pitches leading way right again under and to the otherside of the last black overhangs , follow your nose as to what looks right. Our experience on this climb was validated by the original bolts and pitons every so often. Most importantly if its not 17 (albeit old grading and sustained) you could be off route. Any abseil chains present on the wall are for another climb though there is one on one of the belays. Do not let them distract you from Elijah. Enjoy. Its a great voyage with excellent rock.

  1. Up veering left through poor rock to belay when possible in small stance (original start possibly nicer?)

  2. Up slightly right and around right side of large detached block, over without treading on it then back left to famous double carrot and twisted wire belay on good ledge. Most 1964 bolts are redundant with modern gear on this route.

  3. Out left , up veering left , avoiding large ledge/cleft with corner on right. Sticking to easy terrain. Belay at piton.

  4. Hard straight off belay up then left a bit up and veer right to ledge with Chain (another route) and original bolt.

  5. Up veering left then belay. Approaching centre/left of major overhangs.

  6. Up easiest line leading left though not too low. Ignore fixed gear above in orange rock. Well protected to belay bolt near leftmost side of overhangs.

  7. The only pitch that is truly a traverse. Excellent rock. Left , down , up to nice flake and steep move up , left , down a bit, delicately left with a #3 camalot in a pod at waist height then lunge across to match hands on good positive hold. Up steep move after this and onward to belay where comfortable. Staying just right of buttress arete.

  8. Guide says crack though more like steep jumble of blocks. very solid though. Straight up then steep improbable move straight up (good wire higher in crack than you would like to reach) on face holds to belay ledge.

  9. A bit right then up veering left. This is one of the few pitches where leader is above belayer for considerable time (take care). Up to belay stance (bolt hidden high left).

  10. Up and right stepping across above belay. A bit loose , then under corner. either up corner then leaving corner halfway or (suggested) taking lower more exposed right line well beneath corner (at piton?) then up , push past first ledge veering right then mantle over to very large ledge and end of wall.

  11. Roped scrambles for rope length.

  12. Unroped scrambles to top. Nice one.

The description from the 1994 Rock Magazine guide is as follows:

Start at highest part of face, between two buttresses.

  1. 36 m Up L past tree to bolt belay in chimney-gully.

  2. 15 m Chimney, then up R to bolt belay.

  3. 30 m Up L, then up R to ledge. R along ledge; up L to piton belay.

  4. 18 m Up L, then up to bolt. Now R to bolt belay.

  5. 4 m Up to ledge. Bolt belay.

  6. 21 m Up L to bolt belay below overhang.

  7. 18 m Up L past bolt and piton to bolt belay.

  8. 18 m Up R to bolt, then L to bolt. Overhang past piton to bolt belay.

  9. 12 m Up L. bolt belay.

  10. 30 m Down L, then up to hand-traverse L. Up L to bolt belay.

  11. 24 m Easily up L to ledge (bolt). Crack to ledge, bolt belay.

  12. 27 m Up R, then up L past piton to bolt belay. Poor pro.

  13. 21 m Up R to ledge, then up past pitons.

  14. 24 m R to easy-angled rock.

15--16) 60 m Up.

Originally climbed with one point of aid on overhang on pitch eight.

FA: Bryden Allen & John ewbank, 1964

22
21 Trouser Tracks Trad 320m, 7

Some loose rock and poor pro in upper section. Start at bolt for Elijah.

  1. 50 m Up R to Elijah's second belay.

  2. 50 m Up L to buttress between two major grooves. Flake, then L groove to niche below protruding block.

  3. 15 m Up to ledge.

  4. 50 m Crack through orange wall, then continue L through break in overhang. Now R, then up steeply to stance.

  5. 50 m R, then back L to vague groove. Groove through steep rock to ledge.

  6. 50 m Groove.

  7. 50 m Up easily

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1987

23
20 Abraham Trad 330m

Start as for Elijah.

1-8: Up, following vague weaknesses, to summit overhangs (possibly as for Trouser Tracks), then traverse R to join Ginsberg.

FA: Lucas Trihey & John Smoothy, 1987

24
19 ** Aladinsane Trad 320m, 8

A really class route. Follows a large corner system up between Elijah and Ginsberg. Start about 15 metres right of the bolt start of Elijah at a rightward leaning groove.

  1. 50m Follow the series of grooves by zig-zagging until the slab steepens. Up over the bulge then left to a sloping ledge.

  2. 50m Straight up a steep wall. slightly left then up to a large ledge. A delightful easy angled corner then leads up diagonally right. Follow this to a good tree.

  3. 30m Up the corner for about 5m then follow a traverse line about 15m around an arete, up and across left to belay on a loose looking block.

  4. 15m Straight up over bulges (crux), past the fixed peg to a bolt on a shattered ledge.

  5. 50m Move one metre right to a small corner. Up this for 8m to a roof. Traverse right and slightly down, past a wide crack, thence continue up and right.

  6. 25m Continue up and right, past the bolt on Ginsberg then up into the gully as for Ginsberg.

7-8) 100 m Up easily.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Nat Nicholas, 1974

25
22 Aladinsane Direct Finish Trad 130m, 7

Starts out of Alindinsane at large block with poor bolt belay.

  1. 45 m Up, then R through bulge, then up L towards yellow-orange rock. Up L Through bulges to poor stance. Poor rock and pro.

  2. 45 m Wall above, then slightly R through bulges. Traverse L along ledges 8 m below summit roofs and L of prominent prow.

  3. 35 m Up wall easily.

An earlier direct finish was apparently done by persons unknown in late 70s/ early 80s.

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1991

26
21 Captain Blood Trad 350m

1-2: As for Aladinsane.

3: Up L-most of three big corners.

4: Rising traverse L over loose-looking 'splatter· of stones on wall beneath overhang. Up to semi hanging belay at lip of overhang

5: Up L for 15 m, then back R.

6: Up steeply.

7: Up.

FA: Evan Bieske & Chris Frost, 1987

27
19 ** Ginsberg Trad 330m, 11

A route with a reputation. On the FA John Ewbank fell off the belay after choosing to ignore a bolt belay, placed by Allen on a previous attempt, in favour of some nuts. The nuts failed and Ewbank's fall was arrested by Allen, who was leading at the time! Then, in the early 80s, Warwick Baird fell 25 m on to his belay anchors while leading. Later Bruce Cameron took a 45 m fall while seconding after part of the ledge above the crux pitch gave way on Frank Moon. Despite such horror stories this route remains one of the finest and most popular, on Bluff Mountain.

Start about 30m right of Aladinsane, 15m right of nose of rib. Some old belay bolts were replaced 2010.

  1. 27m Up crack then chimney to a small stance in a recess.

  2. 36m Move right from the recess then over a bulge and a wall to reach a ledge. Traverse left to a belay beneath a slanting corner.

  3. 36m Easily left, then follow a rightward slanting corner to reach another recess

  4. 21m Move right and cross various ribs until a big scar is seen. (Don't go right round main rib.) Pleasant climbing straight up leads to a belay next to a 'beer barrel'. ''A truly glorious pitch'' - Noddy. (An alternative pitch, directly from belay on pitch three to groove/roof, has been done at grade 20 by Bruce Cameron and Frank Moon.)

  5. 36m Up and over the beer barrel then climb left to below a very loose steep corner. Up this to an exposed stance and bolt anchor,

  6. 6m Technical climbing leads to a good ledge.

  7. 36m Climb straight up the wall for about 12 metres to a small ledge. Move right then up short corner to roofs (Crux). Then absolutely superb climbing leads one out across the slab rightwards to reach a small roof. Over this then continue straight up wall and corner to next roof. Move left to a good stance on a little tree.

  8. 30m Up slightly left, thence diagonally right to a bolt anchor on a small ledge.

  9. 24m Diagonally right into a gully then up.

  10. Up juggy wall to top.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Originally climbed at 17,M1 with two sections of aid on pitch seven.

FA: Bryden Allen & JohnEwbank, 1969

FFA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Morris, 1975

28
18 ** Neruda Trad 340m, 11

Classic--one of the best routes on Bluff Mountain.

1-4: 118 m As for Ginsberg.

5: 25 m From 'beer-barrel-shaped block' step L, then up corner for 11 m. Now, up R to rejoin corner below large overhangs. Traverse below small roof to grey wall.

6: 20 m Traverse R to arete, then corner to stance.

7: 32 m Corner for 12 m, then A to poor bolt. Up to roof, then R to small ledge.

8: 25 m R to corner system, then up to ledge on R.

9: 40 m Corner, then L up headwall. Now traverse 5 m R to small corner. R up this to headwall.

10: 30 m R-trending corners.

11: 48 m Slab up L through headwall, then corner and walls.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977

29
19 Neruda Direct Trad 320m

Start R of original start Directly up to join Neruda shortly before massive gully/corner at half·height. Follow Neruda briefly, then climb directly up L of original route.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1982

30
23 For Starters Trad 320m

Takes the striking arete R of Ginsberg and follows it all the way.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1982

31
21 Gettysberg Address Trad 320m

Probably largely a repeat of For Starters. Start just R of prominent buttress R of Ginsberg.

1-8) Steep first pitch. Stay on arete all the way, crossing Ginsberg and other routes where they each cross arete.

FA: Lucas Trihey & Chris Jackson, 1988

32
20 Baal Trad 300m

Takes a corner, presumably the major one between Ginsberg and Ulysses. No further details.

FA: Kevin Pean & Fred From, 1980

33
20 * Ulysses Trad 240m, 9

Sustained and steep. Start on R end of bushy ledge below prominent flake-crack, gained by scrambling up bushy slabs R of Ginsberg buttress.

  1. 10 m Up R-slanting flakes to ledge with block.

  2. 45 m Wall, tending slightly R. Crack and groove through bulge to stance directly above start of climb.

  3. 15 m Ramp L to small cave below bulge.

  4. 35 m down L, then up through bulge to ledge. Wall, moving L at overhangs, to steep groove. Poor bolt belay.

  5. 25 m Groove, then L through steep wall. Piton Belay.

  6. 30 m Up L for 15 m; traverse L to arete Arete, past tree to stance.

  7. 10 m Chimney.

  8. 35 m Crack, then up L across wall to arete. Through bulge to chimney.

  9. 35 m Crack to stance on arete. Bulges to crack on L. Up.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1974

34

Starts 15m L of Ulysses at groove.

  1. 20m Groove to slabby area below steepening.

  2. 35 m Up, then R round headwall. Up and L to ledge.

  3. 15 m Up steeply to ledge, with crux of Ulysses above.

FA: Keith Bell, 1983

35

Start at piton belay above fifth pitch of Ulysses.

  1. 35 m R, through overhang, then R to groove.

  2. 35 m Diagonally R to comer-crack (pitch two of Steeplechase). Continue R to final gully on Tantalus.

FA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1985

36
16 Bonfire of the Vanities Trad 190m, 6

Possibly shares a lot of ground with Tantalus. Start At top R or scrubby, slabby ribs 80 m R of corner on R side of Ginsberg buttress, at R-leading corner.

  1. 25 m Diagonally R up corner over blocky steps, to ledge with tree.

  2. 30 m Traverse 5 m R, then up to semi hanging belay.

  3. 30m Up R over blocks to hand crack. Crack, almost to its end.

  4. 30 m Crack, then R across wall (crux). Up to black chimney-crack.

  5. 50 m Up, then R round overhang.

  6. 25 m Up L, chimney, scrub.

FA: Peter Treby & Andrew Webb, 1989

37
18 Tantalus Trad 230m, 6

Start near large gum down and R of Ulysses.

  1. Use tree to gain face, then groove past bulge. R, then up to bushy ledge (Ulysses pitch-one belay).

  2. 45 m Up as for Ulysses to groove.

  3. 50 m Groove, then R at blocky area. Now, up wall to base of chimney.

4-6) Follow chimney to good ledge and belay. Traverse L to bushy corner, up this.

FA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1985

38

Starts from ledge at top of black chimney. Follow large groove above belay for two pitches. Further details lost.

FA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1985

39
20 Steeplechase Trad 90m, 2

Steep, scary traverse on good rock. Start at ledge 15 m from base of Tantalus chimney.

  1. 45 m Chimney to steepening and R-leading ledge. Follow ledge to large boulder, then up to ledge above boulder. Traverse round arete to steep wall, then diagonally L to corner-crack

  2. 45 m Crack to big ledge. Easily up.

FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1991

40
21 Tartarus Trad 230m, 8

Follow track past Ginsberg, drop to lower level and R-leading ledge on R side of water-streak R of Tantalus.

  1. 10 m Cross slabs to belay in bushes just past water-streak.

  2. 35 m Up to bulge, then diagonally R and up. Continue until main slab is visible. Up L to tree.

  3. 30 m Up R to groove, then groove to just short of water-streak. Up R to poor belay.

  4. 35 m Up, then L. Steeply up to break. Follow break L, then flake. Up to next break, then up to groove. Groove to bolt belay.

  5. 35 m Groove, over boulder, then R. Up, then diagonally L under bulge. Crack, then L to water-streak, up this then R.

  6. 35 m R, then groove past loose boulders to small ledge.

  7. 30m Up, then diagonally R through bulge to cracks. Cracks, through bulge, then further cracks. Traverse L to belay.

  8. 15 m Crack, bulge, then up.

FA: Keith Bell & Greg Mortimer, 1981

41
19 ** Icarus Trad 290m, 10

Start 50 m R of Ulysses, below prominent groove leading to overhanging wall.

  1. 45 m L-sloping ramp to stance below slab and tree.

  2. 30 m Slab past tree, then corner to stance.

  3. 36 m Traverse L to gully, then up R out of gully. Traverse 6 m L, then R and up to base of groove.

  4. 30 m Corner to roof, then 6 m L. Through bulge, then R to groove.

  5. 30 m Corner until crack ends, then L to shallow corner. Through bulge, then up L to bolt.

  6. 12 m Traverse R to pillar and tree.

  7. 36 m (crux) Up L to hand traverse. Move 3 m L, then steep corner. Over blocks, then past tree and large blocks to bolt on L.

  8. 33 m R up wall to nose, then L and up wall.

  9. 39 m Up to corner. Corner, then L over orange rock. Back R to ramp and hand· traverse in corner. Corner to large ledge. Piton.

  10. Up easily.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

FA: Keith Bell & Greg Mortimer, 1972

42
23 Ultra-violent Trad 35m

Steep and sustained linkup pitch between Icarus and Falling Feathers.

1-2: As for Icarus.

3: 35 m Traverse R from Icarus corner to weakness. Up and slightly R to base of overhanging groove. Groove, then L at top. Up, then R to crack in slab. Crack and wall to base of Icarus buttress and Falling Feathers.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1983

43
19 Falling Feathers Trad 280m, 7

Start at small buttress at R side of slabs R of Icarus buttress.

  1. 45 m Buttress, then L across slab to stance.

  2. 35 m Follow slab L to crack. Crack to belay.

  3. 40 m Continue L until halted, then up R through bulges. Up L to semi hanging belay on good nuts.

  4. 40 m R to groove, then L up groove to easy ground and top of Icarus buttress.

  5. 40 m Wall, then R across bulge to main wall. Wall, then L to stance.

  6. 35 m Groove to overhang, then L (poor rock} to tree at base or wide crack.

  7. 45 m Crack, then grooves to easier ground.

FA: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1982

44
21 Childhood's End Trad 260m, 7

1-2: Up slab as for Falling Feathers, but belay in prominent crack.

3: Crack to steepening, then R and up steeply (poor rock) to slabby ledge.

4: Up R to ledge.

5: R up wall to base of groove. Groove to ledge.

6: Groove to roof, then down R along traverse-line. Swing up R to front of buttress. Wall to base of groove (exposed).

7: Groove.

FA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1982

45
20 Daedalus Trad 260m, 9

Start below slabs at R end of cliff.

  1. 25 m Slab to ledge.

  2. 30 m Slab to corner below bulge. Swing L to arete, then arete to bulge. R through bulge (bolt), then slab to stance below steepening.

  3. 30 m Up L to crack. Past chockstone, then up L at top of crack. L to belay.

  4. 35 m Up, then up L to belay.

  5. 20 m Up R to end of bulge, then L to belay.

  6. 10 m Wall.

  7. 25 m R to corner. Corner, then R at top. Up R to belay.

  8. 40m Wall past black rock, then steeply to roof. L and down to arete. Arete, then L to corner.

  9. 40 m Corner.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Origially 19,M1 with a skyhook on pitch two.

FA: Greg Mortimer & Keith Bell, 1973

FFA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1982

46
18 Meschach Trad 260m

Start at R·slanting crack at extreme R of main cliff.

  1. 35 m Crack to stance near tree.

  2. 30 m Groove, then R along ledge to tree.

  3. 20 m Up R to groove, then groove to small ledge below steepening.

  4. 10 m R, through bulge, then L to groove. Up a few metres then L to stance.

  5. 25 m Groove past bulge and vines to break. Belay on ledge to R.

  6. 15m Wall past bolt, then up L.

7-8) 90 m Follow vague buttress.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

FA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1981

47
18 Tickle My Fancy Trad 30m

start at extreme R of Bluff Mountain on small, detached bluff with arched roof. Wall (crux) to crack. Crack (poor rock at top).

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1976

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