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Description

A large, obvious, easily accessible crag and picnic area on the north side of the road as you drive from Coonabarabran to the Warrumbungles. Climbs are described counterclockwise from the west side.

Access issues inherited from Warrumbungles

Most of the crags are in Warrumbungle National Park.

Approach

Cross the creek and walk up to the crag. Descent is via a double-rope abseil down E Face from tree, or down-climb Tourist Route.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Wallaby Track Trad 110m 3

Start on W Buttress below Tourist Route.

  1. 40m (crux) Sweeping crack-line on R side of buttress (loose rock).

  2. 25m Step across to overhanging section, then up L. Back R to meet second pitch of TR.

  3. 40m As for Tourist Route.

FA: Greg Croft, John McKenna (alt) & Dan Croft, 1991

2
8 Tourist Route Trad 80m 3

Apparently this route used to follow some kind of markers. I doubt they are still there. The line of least resistance.

FA: anon

3

Start 30 m right of Tourist Route.

1-2) Direct line up open, knobby rock gully with fig at 20 m.

FA: Unknown

4
10 Next Best Trad 80m 2

Start 5 m R of Tourist Route Variant.

1-2) Take a line of least resistance up wide crack behind big block.

FA: Phil Draper & Jim Waller, 1990

5
13 Lost Four Trad 40m 2

Start round corner (R) from Next Best. Walk up grassy gully to jumbled chimney-gully with small figs. Up.

FA: Greg Croft, Dan Croft, Phil Draper & John Mohoney, 1992

6
14 Aladdin's Lamp Trad 80m 2

Start in next gully R of Lost Four.

1-2) Up deep, black gully with fig root running to the bottom of it.

FA: John McKenna & Greg Croft, 1992

7
18 * Kamilaroi Trad 90m 2

Start 2 m R of Aladdin's Lamp at a small fig.

  1. 45m (crux) Snaking crack, then tend R at 10 m. Through bulge at 30 m, then R up wall to narrow shelf. Traverse 5 m R to belay in alcove. Possibly break this pitch into two to avoid rope drag.

  2. 45m Down R, then finish as for Indigenous.

FA: Greg Croft & Phil Draper, 1992

8
17 Indigenous Trad 80m 2

Start round buttress (R) from Kamilaroi at fig jungle.

  1. 40m Up through fig to where buttress meets cliff. Up loose, detached pillar, then R out of crack. L to belay.

  2. 40m Squeeze up behind blocks. Up.

FA: Greg Croft & John McKenna, 1992

9
14 Brother Trad 70m 3

Start 5 m R of Indigenous.

  1. 12m Up through fig to scrubby shelf.

  2. 30m Gully, taking R branch.

  3. 28m Scramble up.

FA: Greg Croft & Phil Draper, 1991

10
17 Corm's Invitation Trad 80m 3

Start at second gully E of Brother.

  1. 20 m Zigzagging crack on buttress. Round boulder, then up to fig.

  2. 35 m Up to ledge.

  3. 25 m Easy.

FA: Graeme Bowden, John McKenna (alt) & Chris Cormie, 1991

11
16 * April Fool Trad 100m 3

Start at prominent black streak 10 m R of Corm's Invitation.

  1. 35 m Through small figs, then up gully/crack-line.

  2. 35 m Continue up black streak, then R to alcove.

  3. 30 m L, then up chimney. Through gap at top.

FA: Greg Croft, Phil Draper & Kerry Moore, 1991

12
15 The Falcon Flies Trad 80m 2

Start 10 m R of April Fool, in middle of S Face.

  1. 40 m Short gully and wall to fig, then small crevice to sloping rock and short corner. Up 15 m.

  2. 40 m Juggy wall, then over grassy waterway to crevice/wall. Up to join final chimney of April Fool.

FA: Phil Draper, Greg Croft (alt) & Karl Sprogis, 1991

13
15 Gulf Crisis Trad 80m 2

Start 20 m W of pine on buttress.

  1. 40 m Narrow gully to large shelf, then avoid mossy crack by climbing slabs to R. Chimney to fig.

  2. 40 m Juggy section to ledge, then sloping crack and chimney.

FA: Graeme Bowden, Greg Croft (alt) & Rod Kerr, 1991

14
17 Beachcomber Trad 100m 3

Start at sloping, scrubby crack that leads towards prominent pine on skyline.

  1. 30 m Sloping crack through vegetation, then traverse L of rounded block. Dirty crack to fig.

  2. 35 m Down, then 30 m R to next crack. Belay on ledge with big ferns.

  3. 35 m Deep crack.

FA: John McKenna, Graeme Bowden (alt), Tony Knight & Dick Varley, 1991

15
10 Falcon Nest Trad 70m 2

Start as for Beachcomber.

  1. 35 m R up wall.

  2. 35 m Line of least resistance.

FA: Phil Draper & Gavin Ginn, 1990

16
9 Billy Trad 70m 2

Start round buttress E of Falcon Nest.

  1. 30 m Up jumbled main buttress.

  2. 40 m Up easily.

FA: Jeremy Judd & Cincelia Johnson, 1991

17
15 Dark Side of the Moon Trad 80m 2

Start E of main buttress in middle of cliff.

  1. 40 m Sloping gully, then wall and gully with fig.

  2. 40 m (crux) Big chimney

FA: solo & Joe Friend (solo), 1976

18
15 Cissus Trad 100m 3

Start 4m E of Dark Side of the Moon.

  1. 30m Black, indented watercourse, then L over grass at 25 m.

  2. 30m R on to wall at prominent fig in gully, then slabs to large ledge. Walk W and up deep, ferny gully.

  3. 40m As for Dark Side of the Moon pitch two.

FA: Greg Croft, Phil Draper (alt) & John McKenna, 1991

19
16 Done in Dunlops Trad 100m 2
  1. 50 m Gully 10 m E of Cissus, then off-width to ledge.

  2. 50 m As for last pitch of Sunday School.

FA: Graeme Bowden & Greg Croft (alt), 1990

20
14 Sunday School Trad 100m 2

Start 5m E of Done in Dunlops.

  1. 50 m Scrubby scramble, then up to big shelf.

  2. 50 m Fantastic chimney.

FA: Phil Draper & Greg Croft (alt), 1990

21
17 * Horizons Trad 90m 2

Start 5m W of big detached pillar.

  1. 45m Smooth, water-worn gully.

  2. 45m Up.

FA: Greg Croft, Phil Draper (alt), Graeme Bowden & John McKenna, 1990

22
15 Face Value Trad 35m

Crack up middle of big detached pillar L of the Devils Chair. Abseil down back. A slightly easier route has been done up back of this pillar - no further details.

FA: Greg Croft & John McKenna, 1992

23
17 Walk on the Wild Side Trad 100m 3

Start in big gully with blackberries W of the Devils Chair.

  1. 45 m Crevice on R of chimney to face. Follow small crack up L through slight overhang. Up 2 m to large crack, then up L past fish-hook-shaped boulder.

  2. 35 m Round R from ledge to smooth, vertical crack. Up this for 10m, then round L to chimney. Chimney to grassy ledge.

  3. 20m Chimney, as for Intrigue.

FA: Graeme Bowden & Phil Draper (alt), 1991

24
15 Intrigue Trad 80m 2

Start at chimney roughly behind the Devils Chair.

1-2) Chimney with roof at 10 m.

FA: Greg Croft, Graeme Bowden (alt) & Dan Croft, 1992

25
17 Gates of Hell Trad 20m

Broken crack-line behind the Devils Chair.

FA: John McKenna, Graeme Bowden, Greg Croft & Phil Draper, 1991

26
15 Sunnyside Trad 30m

Crack on NE Face, then round bulge at three quarters height.

FA: Greg Croff, Graeme Bowden & John McKenna, 1990

27
15 Wandering Wilburys Trad 65m 2

Start 30 m R of Sunnyside.

1-2) Up.

FA: Graeme Bowden & John McKenna (alt), 1993

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