★★★ Caucasus Corner 17

Start about 30m right of Scunge Gully.

1. 45m (14) Up for 9m, then diagonally left and up to the foot of a corner sloping steeply right.

2. 26m (17) Up corner to bush then step left and up 5m to comfortable belay ledge

3. 36m (13) Out left to the rib and up easily to the right hand base of the projecting buttress (the base of the corner). Somewhat loose.

4. 28m (16) Traverse right and up steep wall to the right of corner. Belay on ledge above small layback.

5. 21m (14) Up corner and finish through loose blocks. Scramble up to large green ledge. (First ascent party camped here!)

6. 33m (15) Traverse left and slightly down (delicate) across the wall, across to foot of huge corner. Resist temptation to go high , although it looks like it is easier and has more pro you will be disappointed in both departments. The desperate looking wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds.

7. 24m (15) Up corner to belay on block under impending wall on left. (beneath rotten rock bridge)

8. 18m (14) Out right, avoid loose blocks and up wall. The original route went to (peg) stance below an overhang on the right but this belay offers limited protection (other than the peg). A better alternative is to look for a belay to the left of the corner.

9. 24m (14) Diagonally left (loose blocks) through the line of weakness across the face leading out to the arete. Good ledge on extreme edge. Peg belay 2m above.

10. 21m (14) Round corner to left and past first groove. Up second groove to ledge.

11. 21m (14) Up to right then from peg in small corner go up nose on left and into groove. Belay on a big ledge on the right, under small overhangs.

12. 33m (15) Right and swing through overhangs. Left and up to peg, then on to summit.

When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully then one more short scramble/pitch to true summit.